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http://www.archive.org/details/sundayschooltour01brow 



A 

Sunday School Tour 
of the Orient 



By a Commission authorized by the World's Sunday 
School Association 



BY 

FRANK L. BROWN 

Joint General Secretary, World's Sunday School Association 



ISSUED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF THE WORLD'S 

SUNDAY SCHOOL ASSOCIATION, BUT AT THE 

EXPENSE OF FRIENDS 




PUBLISHED BY 

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 

GARDEN CITY NEW YORK 

I914 



-^ 



^6^^ 

^'A^ 



Copyright, 1Q14, by 
World's Sunday School Assocl\.tion 

All ri(:his reserved, including that of 

trail sliiiioi! into foreign languages, 

in chid in SI the Scandinavian 



JAN 19 1915 

I 

5ci.A3n3'a32 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

I. How It Came About 3 

II. At the Golden Gate , , 15 

in. A Mid-ocean Paradise 23 

rV. At the Gate of the Orient 37 

V. Tokyo and Its Welcome 49 

VI. Northward to the Snow Line .... 59 

VTI. A Journey Westward 71 

Vni. Through the Heart of Nippon .... 79 

rX. From Tokyo to Nagoya 87 

X. Osaka, the Pittsburgh of Japan .... 97 

XI. A Trip to Shikoku 103 

XII. From Kobe to Shimonoseki 109 

Xm. The New Korea 121 

XIV. A Momitain Journey 129 

XV. Fusan to Syen Chim 137 

XVI. At Korea's Capital 149 

XVII. In the Heart of a Crater 157 

XVni. Oita to Fukuoka 167 

XIX. From Kagoshima to Nagasaki . . . . 177 

XX. A Trip to the PhiHppines 187 

XXI. The New China 199 

XXII. A Journey to Foochow 211 

XXni. A Shanghai Demonstration 221 

XXIV. Hangchow, Soochow, and Nanking . . . 231 

XXV. In the Confucian Coimtry 245 

iii 



iv CONTENTS 

PAGE 

XXVI. Up the Yangtse 257 

XXVII. Peking, the City of Three Walls ... 269 

XXVIII. China's Most Sacred Spot . . . . . 283 

XXIX. Tientsin 293 

XXX. Kalgan and Mukden 307 

XXXI. Across Siberia 321 

XXXII. Moscow and St. Petersburg .... 333 

XXXIII. The Journey's Climax 345 

XXXIV. General Religious Conditions in the Orient 357 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
H. J. Heinz ' Frontispiece ^ 

FACING PAGE 

The Good Ship Tenyo Maru 16'^ 

Crew Muster on Shipboard 16 j^ 

Some of America's Choicest 17 "^ 

Just Before Startmg, San Francisco ly-^ 

Kawaishao Church, Honolulu 24 jX 

Sunday School Rally, Kawaishao Church .... 24 ^^ 

Fujiyama, Japan's Sacred Mountain 251/" 

Surf Riders, Honolulu 32^ 

The Capitol, Honolulu 32 '^, 

At the Aquarium, Honolulu 33 ^ 

A Honolulu Christian Girls' School 33 ^ 

Bishop Luckok and Party, Honolulu 33 1^ 

Descending the Gangway, Yokohama ..... 36 "^ 
In the Parlor of the Tenyo Maru Just Before 

Landing 3^ 

Three Lassies of Tokyo 37 

Children in Hongwanji Temple Grounds, Kyoto . . 37 

At Chamber of Commerce Banquet, Yokohama . . 37 

Temple of Hachiman, Kamakiura 44 

Dai Butsu, Kamakura 44 

Guide Hachiman Temple 44 

Beggar at Temple Gate 44 

A Doorway Scene, Yokohama 45 

Street in Kyoto 45 



vi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

Girls Drawing Cart, Kyoto AS ^^ 

Count Shigenobu Okuma, Prime Minister of Japan . 48 >^ 

Tokyo Welcome Banquet 48 A ^ 

Sunday School Rally, Aoyama Gakuin, Tokyo . . 48A ^ 

Men's Rally, Y. M. C. A. Hall, Tokyo 48B ^ 

Sunday School Rally at Sixth National Convention 

Before Imperial Japanese Palace, Tokyo. . . . 48B '^ 

Bridge Over Moat, Imperial Palace, Tokyo ... . 49 i^ 

In Baron Shibusawa's Gardens, Tokyo 49 "^ 

A Tokyo Street Scene 49 

The Gold Lacquer Bridge, Nikko 64 

In an Iris Garden 64 . 

A Pair of Japan's Products 64 ^/' 

Vender of Molasses Candy 64 i/' 

Hakodate Sunday Schools 65 , 

Sendai Sunday School Group and Buddhist Priests . 65 
Hon. Buei Nakano, President Chamber of Commerce, 

Tokyo 72 i^-^ 

Senator Siroku Ebara 72 i/" 

Baron Eiichi Shibusawa 73 

Baron Y. Sakatani, Mayor of Tokyo ..... 73 

Rev. T. Ukai 80 

Rev. H. Kawasumi 80 {^ 

Mr. N. Kato 81 v- 

Rev. Kajinosuke Ibuka, D.D. 81 

At the Hotel Shidzuoka 86 

A Street Mission Sunday School 86 

Where Horses Are Rare 87 

"A Charge to Keep I Have" 87 

Boy Street Musicians 87 

Waiting for the Crown Prince, Nagoya 90 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS vii 

FACING PAGE 

Laundry Wagon , . . . . 90 ^' 

Procession Hongwanji Temple, Kyoto qo *• 

Methodist Protestant Kindergarten, Nagoya ... 91 '^ 

Attention! 91' 

Japan's Seventh National S. S. Convention, Osaka . 98 

The Men and Women of To-morrow 98 

Rev. H. Kozaki, D. D., and Family 99 

Rev. K. Mito, and Family 99 ^ 

Sunday School Rally, Palace Hill, Matsuyama, Shi- 

koku 104 

Park in Takamatsu, Shikoku 104 

A Japanese Torii, Kobe 105 

At Beautiful Miyajima 105 

Temple Interior 105 

Presenting Kobe's Welcome no 

Presbyterian Sunday School, Osaka no 

Miss Kijo Niwa, a Sunday School Teacher . . . in 

Children of Mr. K. Muramatsu, Kobe in 

At the Tor Hotel, Kobe m 

Japanese Workers' Conference, Okayama . . . . 116 

Sunday School Mass Meeting, Hiroshima .... 116 

Boys' Club, Okayama n? 

Okayama Rally n? 

Boys From Kong-Ju Methodist School 124 

A Little Burden Bearer 124 

A Korean Funeral .... 124 

Standard Oil Cans on a Korean Rack or "Jiggie" . 125 

Returning from Church 125 

A Straw-thatched School , 125: 

A Southern Presbyterian Sunday School Group . . 132 

Chinnampo Methodist Sunday School 132 



viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

A Blind Korean S. S. Superintendent and Grand- 
daughter 133 1/' 

Blind Sorceress, First Home Department Member in 

Korea 133 1, 

First Cradle Roll Member in Korea 133 u 

Blind Wang 133 \y^ 

The World's Sunday School Salute, Pyeng Yang . . 140 i/^ 
Sunday School Gathering, Presbyterian Church 

Grounds .0 140 ^ 

A Korean Baby Carriage 141 \/ 

The Hat of a Mourner 141 v 

A Typical Korean Mission Day School . . » . 141 ^ 

Sunday School Field Day, Songdo 148 

Greatest Sunday School Gathering in Orient . . „ 148 ' 

Sunday School Procession 149 

A Fuel Merchant 149 ' 

A Typical Korean Building and Group of Girls . . 149 

Starting from Beppu Station 156 

Welcoming Crowds 156 

On the Way to Beppu, Lunch Time on Train . . 156'- 

Beppu's Mayor, Welcoming Committee and Guests . 157. 

An American Eagle, Beppu Park 157 i 

The Welcoming Friends at Station 157 

Buddhist Orphanage, Oita 168 

In an Azalea Garden, Kurime ,168 

Mr. James W. Kinnear and a Group of our Inter- 
preters 169 ^ 

Another Interpreter, Rev. M. Mitani 169 

As They Left the Coast Steamer, Kagoshima . . 176 ; 

Sunday School Teachers in Japanese Garden . . . 176 • 

Miss Finley's Home, Kagoshima 176 ^ 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



IX 



FACING PAGE 

Kagoshima Sunday School Rally 176A i^ 

City Banquet, Kagoshima 176A u^ 

Normal School, Saga 176B i^ 

Chamber of Commerce Banquet in Japanese Res- 
taurant 176B u^ 

Mr. J. M. Suganuma 177 i--' 

Governor T. Taniguchi 177 1/^ 

Ready for the Hill Climb . . . 180 j/" 

Public Records of Gifts to Institutions 180 l^ 

A Burden Bearer 180 x^ 

Stone Lantern and Torii, Tokaido 181 \^ 

Mr. Horace E. Coleman 1811^ 

Arched Sacred Bridge 181 l/' 

Methodist Girls' School, Nagasaki 182 u^ 

Loading Coal on Steamer, Nagasaki 182 ^ 

Farewell to Tour Party, Nagasaki 183 ^^" 

Outdoor Athletics, Saga 1831-^ 

Second National S. S. Convention of the Philippines . 188 ^ 

Girls at Lingayan Methodist School 188 L^ 

Women's Bible Training School 188 1 

Filipino House of Better Class 189 ^. 

Protestant Parade, Mexico, Philippines .... 189 , 

A Philippine Bridge 189 

Pastor Hsu Caik Hang, Foochow . 2121. 

Girls at Mr. Chang's Party . 212 i/' 

Under a Chinese Arbor 212 i 

Christian Herald Orphanage 213 i. 

Boys of Industrial School, Beacon Hill Farm . . . 213 t-- 

Starving Manchu Soldiers at Same Farm . . . . 213 

Yuan Shih-Kai, President Chinese Republic . . . 220 

Sunday School Field Day . 221 



viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

A Blind Korean S. S. Superintendent and Grand- 
daughter 133 \/' 

Blind Sorceress, First Home Department Member in 

Korea 133 1, 

First Cradle Roll Member in Korea 133 S/ 

Blind Wang 133 i/^ 

The World's Sunday School Salute, Pyeng Yang , . 140 v/^ 
Sunday School Gathering, Presbyterian Church 

Grounds » 140 ^ 

A Korean Baby Carriage 141 \/ 

The Hat of a Mourner 141 v 

A Typical Korean Mission Day School . . » . 141 ^ 

Sunday School Field Day, Songdo 148 

Greatest Sunday School Gathering in Orient . . „ 148 ' 

Sunday School Procession 149 

A Fuel Merchant 149 

A Typical Korean Building and Group of Girls . . 149 

Starting from Beppu Station 156 

Welcoming Crowds 156 '■ 

On the Way to Beppu, Lunch Time on Train . . 156 I 

Beppu's Mayor, Welcoming Committee and Guests . 157 v 

An American Eagle, Beppu Park IS7' 

The Welcoming Friends at Station 157'' 

Buddhist Orphanage, Oita 168 '^- 

In an Azalea Garden, Kurime « 168 

Mr. James W. Kinnear and a Group of our Inter- 
preters 169 V 

Another Interpreter, Rev. M. Mitani 169 

As They Left the Coast Steamer, Kagoshima . . 176 ; 

Sunday School Teachers in Japanese Garden . . . 176^ 

Miss Finley's Home, Kagoshima 176 '■ 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



IX 



FACING PAGE 

Kagoshima Sunday School Rally 176A ^^ 

City Banquet, Kagoshima 176A u^ 

Normal School, Saga 176B t^ 

Chamber of Commerce Banquet in Japanese Res- 
taurant 176B u^ 

Mr. J. M. Suganuma 177 i--' 

Governor T. Taniguchi 177 \/^ 

Ready for the Hill Climb 180 i^ 

Public Records of Gifts to Institutions 180 l/"' 

A Burden Bearer 180 \^ 

Stone Lantern and Torii, Tokaido 181 \^ 

Mr. Horace E. Coleman 1811^ 

Arched Sacred Bridge 1811/^ 

Methodist Girls' School, Nagasaki 1821^ 

Loading Coal on Steamer, Nagasaki 182 ^ 

Farewell to Tour Party, Nagasaki . . . . . . 183 ^' 

Outdoor Athletics, Saga iSsi"-^ 

Second National S. S. Convention of the Philippines . 188 "^ 

Girls at Lingayan Methodist School 188 ; 

Women's Bible Training School 188 L 

Filipino House of Better Class 189 ^ 

Protestant Parade, Mexico, Philippines . . . . 189 , 

A Philippine Bridge 189 

Pastor Hsu Caik Hang, Foochow . 212 ,, 

Girls at Mr. Chang's Party . 212 u 

Under a Chinese Arbor . . . 212 \./ 

Christian Herald Orphanage 213 l,. 

Boys of Industrial School, Beacon Hill Farm . . . 213 l 

Starving Manchu Soldiers at Same Farm .... 213 [^ 

Yuan Shih-Kai, President Chinese Republic . . . 220 i 

Sunday School Field Day . 221 ^^ 



INTRODUCTION 

One of the delegates from India to the World's Second Sun- 
day School Convention which was held in St. Louis, U. S. A., 
in September, 1893, was the lamented Dr. Phillips, who, ac- 
cording to his statement, came the long journey to urge upon 
the American Sunday Schools the support of an assistant in 
the great work which, under God, he was directing in India. 
But when he heard of the crying needs of Japan, he said: "If 
the Sunday Schools of America will undertake the work of 
promoting Sunday School organization in Japan, I will cheer- 
fully return to my field alone," whereupon a tacit under- 
standing was entered into by the American section of the 
convention to inaugurate the work in Japan, and a small 
sum of money was pledged toward its support. No further 
step was taken, however, until a meeting of the International 
Executive Committee at Chautauqua in the following year, 
where our greatly beloved leader, B. F. Jacobs, laid before the 
International Executive Committee additional information 
concerning Japan. In a brief but pathetic address he re- 
minded the committee not only of its agreement, but of the 
open door of opportunity which awaited its action. So pro- 
found was the impression made by Mr. Jacobs' remarks that 
after some moments of perfect silence it was suggested that 
prayer be offered for guidance. It seemed as though the 
Holy Spirit filled the room where the committee was gathered. 
Arising from their knees, the members of the committee 



xiv INTRODUCTION 

pledged nearly $3,000 for Japan, and a vigorous campaign 
was entered upon to find some one to introduce the work. 

The attention of the committee was drawn to Mr. T. C. 
Ikahara, a Japanese student in the Hartford Training 
School, who came to America to prepare himself for Christian 
work among his own people. Mr. Ikahara made a very 
favorable impression, and the result was the turning of his 
attention especially to preparation for leadership in organized 
Simday School work. After six months' further study and 
four months in India with Dr. Phillips, he took up the work 
in Japan, and for a time his efforts were attended with most 
satisfactory results. For some reason unknown to the com- 
mittee, after some eighteen months of what appeared satis- 
factory work, he became discouraged and the work was 
abandoned. The committee, greatly disappointed, decided 
to send an American to Japan as a commissioner from the 
World's Sunday School Association. After many months 
of searching, the name of Mr. Frank L. Brown, Superin- 
tendent of the Bush wick Avenue Methodist Episcopal 
Simday School, Brooklyn, was suggested. It was known that 
Mr. Brown had recently given up his business in order that 
he might devote his entire time to religious work. Being 
approached, he gave serious consideration to the proposition, 
and finally decided if financial support were assured sufficient 
to cover the expense he would make the effort. 

Mr. H. J. Heinz had visited Japan and was well informed 
as to conditions. He expressed his deep interest in the prop- 
osition to send a commissioner to that coimtry. After a 
conference covering a good part of two days, Mr. Heinz 
said: "If Mr. Brown will go to Japan I will be responsible 
for the necessary expense." The following six months 
witnessed a voluminous correspondence, many conferences 



INTRODUCTION xv 

and interviews with the Mission Boards represented in Japan 
and Korea, and in November, 1906, Mr. Brown sailed west- 
ward with his face toward the Sunrise Kingdom. As a 
result of the correspondence above referred to and the co- 
operation of the various Boards, preparations for Mr. Brown's 
visit had gone forward in many parts of Japan and Korea. 
He received a cordial welcome and enjoyed the enthusiastic 
cooperation of the leaders of Christian work in that country. 

In a brief stay of four months every important part of Japan 
and Korea was visited, and so hungry were the Christian Jap- 
anese and Koreans for information regarding the Sunday 
School that everywhere an intense interest was manifested, 
which, under God, has been attended with marvelous results. 
I regard Mr. Brown's visit to Japan and Korea, time element 
considered, as one of the most successful efforts in the interests 
of Christian work the world has ever witnessed. 

In the year 191 1 Mr. Brown made a second visit to the 
Orient, and his reports to the World's Sunday School Asso- 
ciation of the wonderful progress and opportunities for work 
there made a profound impression upon the leaders of our 
Sunday School work in America, so that the decision to make 
a tour of the Orient by a company of Sunday School men and 
women immediately preceding the Zurich Convention was a 
logical sequence. 

The story of this tour is graphically told in the pages which 
follow. This was made in 19 13, only seven years after Mr. 
Brown's first visit to Japan and Korea in 1906. 

In 191 2 the Fifth Annual Rally of the Sunday Schools of 
Tokyo was observed. A photograph upon my desk shows 
the presence of more than ten thousand Sunday School men, 
women, and children in a park in Tokyo. A part of the exer- 
cises of this rally was the sending up of a large balloon carrying 



xvi INTRODUCTION 

a great streamer upon which was painted in letters several 
feet in length three words, "God Is Love." This was the 
message which the Sunday Schools of Japan sent over the 
city of Tokyo, to be read by many thousands. After send- 
ing up the balloon this great company with banners and 
music marched to the palace, and saluted the Mikado. The 
compliment was graciously received, as was indicated by the 
hoisting and lowering of the national colors by direction of 
the Emperor, who afterward expressed regret that he had 
not more fully understood the significance of the visit. 

Combining the history of the wonderful development of 
organized Sunday School work in the Orient during the past 
seven brief years with the probabilities of what will be ac- 
complished through holding the World's next Convention 
in Tokyo, two years hence, there will be material for a story 
of the growth of the Kingdom such as the World has never 
heard. To Him whom we love be all the glory. 

George W. Bailey. 
Philadelphia, October, 1914. 



CHAPTER I 
HOW IT CAME ABOUT 



WHEN WILL OUR TURN COME? 

I hear the children crying in the night — 
The little children: ''God of Stars and Sun, 

We do not like the darkness ; send down light, 
From where there is so much to where there's none: 

Fireflies and flowers we love, and all things bright, 
But in our hearts it's dark: Dear God, send light! 

"A little Child, we've heard. Thou once didst send — 
Light to the heart of all the world to be, 

And so we think, dear God, Thou didst intend 
Some light for little children such as we. 

For what a child can bring a child can take; 

Then give us hght, dear God, for that Child's sake. 

"And if it be there is no light to spare — 

Dear God, forgive if what we ask is wrong. 
We're only heathen children — Is it fair 

That others shovild have all the light so long? 
We would not wish that they should have our night, 
But when will our turn come to have the light?" 

— Selected. 



CHAPTER I 

HOW IT CAME ABOUT 

Eleven years ago one of America's industrial leaders was 
visiting the Sunrise Kingdom, wandering through the art 
shops of the empire, absorbing the beauty of the scenery, 
noting the hum of the business life, and the expression on 
every hand of the genius of a dominant race. He was on a 
voyage of discovery. His largest interest was in folks, not 
tilings, for it is folks that bring things to pass. Trained to a 
keen judgment of men as the cornerstones of business suc- 
cess, he discovered in the mental and physical alertness of the 
Japanese people the material for splendid nation building. 
His contact with the bright, progressive children of Japan in 
public schools and Sunday Schools gave to him as a lover of 
children and a dreamer of dreams a vision of the nation to be, 
if but the Christ touch through religious education should be 
felt in the construction of character. 

Returning to America, his vision grew upon him. He con- 
ferred with other dreamers of a World Empire under the 
love sway of Jesus Christ : with Dr. George W. Bailey of Phil- 
adelphia, then chairman of the Executive Committee of the 
World's Sunday School Association, with Mr. E. K. Warren, 
Mr. Fred A. Wells, Mr. Marion Lawrance, Mr. Wm. N. 
Hartshorn, and other leaders. 

At the great International Sunday School Convention at 
Massey Hall, Toronto, where five thousand were in attendance, 

3 



4 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Mr. H. J. Heinz — for he was the seer referred to above — 
urged that great convention to take Japan upon its heart; 
spoke of the great Sunday School possibihties of that people, 
and offered to make possible the financing of the organized 
Sunday School work of the empire. The convention promptly 
endorsed the proposal to extend the Sunday School work of 
Japan. 

Other conferences followed, and finally a commissioner was 
selected to go to Japan, to assist in the organization of the 
Sunday School work and to carry the heartfelt greetings of the 
host of seventeen million Sunday School workers of America. 

The commissioner's visit was made in the winter of 1906-7. 
National and missionary leaders cordially cooperated with 
strong letters of introduction. The National Sunday School 
Association of Japan was formed, embracing 1,200 Sunday 
Schools and 100,000 members. A Japanese secretary was 
named — Rev. T. Ukai — graded lessons and a library litera- 
ture were developed, conventions held, and the organization 
of Japan into twenty-eight Sunday School districts was com- 
pleted. 

The commissioner's tour included Korea and China. Some 
foundational organization work was done, leaders were con- 
ferred with, institutes held, and the journey continued through 
India and completed at the World's Convention at Rome in 
May, 1907. 

The report at this Rome convention of the enthusiasm of 
the Japanese and other people of the Orient for Sunday School 
extension inspired Mr. Heinz to suggest to the Convention 
the plan of an Oriental tour of Sunday School business men 
and Sunday School specialists who should in Japan divide 
into groups holding conferences and mass meetings in the prin- 
cipal cities. 



HOW IT CAME ABOUT S 

The same evening, after discussion of the question, Bishop 
Hartzell offered the following resolution: 



Your committee, to whom was referred the question of a 
world-wide tour in the interest of the work of the World's 
Sunday School Association, report in favor of the proposi- 
tion, and suggest: 
First. That the tour be known as "The World's Sun- 
day School Visitation." 
Second. That the object shall be to confer and cooperate 
with Sunday School workers, especially in 
Japan, India, and China, for the purpose of ex- 
tending and improving the work and encour- 
aging the workers. 
Third. That the xdsitation party should be composed of 
practical Sunday School workers, willing to 
bear their own expenses, and who are ready to 
give their time and efforts for the extension of 
the Kingdom of Christ through the Sunday 
School. 
Fourth. It is suggested that a committee of five be ap- 
pointed with full authority to make all neces- 
sary arrangements for the visitation. 
(Signed) J. C. Hartzell, Africa, Chairman. 
H. J. Hemz, U. S. A. 
Carey Bonner, England. 
Marion Lawrance, U. S. A. 



While these extensive plans were unfolding, Dr. and Mrs. 
Hamill made a helpful visit to Japan and Korea, and a World's 
Sunday School Association commissioner made a second visit 
to Japan, completed the organization of the Philippine Islands 
Sunday School Union, and extended the organization work 
in CMna and Korea. 

In the development of the larger plans of the World's 



6 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Sunday School tour party three things were now neces- 
sary: 

First. To secure the personnel of the party. 

Second. To obtain testimonials from the highest officials 
of America. 

Third. To arouse the national leadership of the Orient 
to the value of religious education through the 
Sunday Schools and to cooperate with the Sun- 
day School workers and missionaries. 

The tour party of twenty-nine, with Mr. Heinz as chairman 
and Mr. Brown as secretary, was completed in January, 1913. 
The deeply interesting story of the assembling of this party at 
San Francisco and the trip in the Orient and through Siberia 
and Europe to the World's Sunday School Convention at Zu- 
rich, in July, 1913, is a romance of modern Sunday School 
work and will be found in the next and succeeding chapters 
of this book. 

Of greater importance than the organization of the party 
was the assembling of a series of impressive credentials from 
America's leading men that should show in a revealing way to 
the leadership of Japan and other nations the value of the 
Sunday School as an institution of constructive force in the 
life of the American people. 

These letters of introduction came from the secretaries of 
leading missionary boards, from such national leaders as Hon. 
Charles W. Fairbanks, Hon. John Wanamakei;, Mr. Harry A. 
Wheeler, president of the Chambers of Commerce of the 
United States; W. H. Stevenson, president of the Pittsburgh 
Chambers of Commerce; Viscount Chinda, Japanese Ambas- 
sador at Washington; Hon. Y. Nimiano, Acting Consul Gen- 
eral at New York, and David Starr Jordan, president of 
Leland Stanford University. 



HOW IT CAME ABOUT 7 

President Taft gave a note of cordial introduction. The 
letter of Hon. William Jennings Bryan, Secretary of State, is 
typical of a number of these letters : 

Chambers of Commerce, Boards of Trade, aiid Merchants' 

Associations. 

Gentlemen: It gives me pleasure to bring to your favor- 
able consideration and courtesy Mr. H. J. Heinz of Pittsburgh, 
Pennsylvania, and his traveling companions, who are upon 
a tour of the world in the interest of the Sunday School. 

Mr. Heinz is one of the leading business men in the United 
States, and his associates are also men of prominence in the 
business world. They are entitled to the confidence of those 
among whom they go. Their mission is one of universal 
interest, and anything you can do to secure them a hearing 
will be gratefully appreciated by them and by Christians 
throughout this country. 

The Sunday School is a permanent institution and an im- 
portant factor in the progress of our country. Anything 
that improves the condition of the youth of our land, as the 
Sunday School does, vitally concerns the entire community. 
The rehgious training of the young raises the standards of 
society and benefits business as well as other conditions. 
Commending Mr. Heinz and his associates to you, I am, 

Very truly yours, 

(Signed) W. J. Bryan. 

Mr. Wanamaker's letter beautifully expresses the spirit of 
the Sunday School workers of America in its outreach for 
God's children in every clime: 

"The message they carry to the brethren abroad is a mes- 
sage of affection, sympathy, and good cheer from many thou- 
sands of Christian workers marching together under the 
banner of our Lord, bearing the hope of every Christian heart 
as expressed in the great fact of one Bible, one faith, one 



8 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Saviour, one eternal home for believers of every language, 
every nation, and every color — for \ye all be brethren." 

The letter of Mr. R. Ichinomiya, the New York agent of 
the Yokohama Specie Bank, was addressed to Coimt Okuma, 
then ex-Premier of Japan and Japan's leading statesman and 
president of the great Waseda University, Tokyo, enrolling 
8,000 students: 

Count Shigenobu Okuma, Waseda, To^o, Japan. 

Dear Sir: We take pleasure in commending to your 
courteous consideration Mr. H. J. Heinz of Pittsburgh, 
Pennsylvania, and his associates, who are visiting Japan on 
their way to attend the Seventh Convention of the World's 
Sunday School Association to be held at Zurich, Switzerland, 
in July, 1 9 13. 

Mr. Heinz is among the most prominent business men in 
this country, and his associates are also men of high standing 
in the business circles. The Japanese Commercial Com- 
mission, headed by Baron Shibusawa, were entertained most 
hospitably by Mr. Heinz on the occasion of their \dsit to this 
city and his industrial plant during their stay in this country. 

While their principal interest will be in investigating the 
religious education of the young, they will also be glad to 
learn at first hand something regarding the commerce and 
industry of Japan. 

We feel confident that you will enjoy meeting these gentle- 
men and will extend to them every facihty to add to the 
pleasure and enjoyment of their stay in Japan. 
Yours very respectfully. 
The Yokohama Specie Bank, Limited, 
(Signed) R. Ichinomiya, Agent. 

In this letter Mr. Ichinomiya refers to the visit to America 
of the most important commission that had gone out from 
Japan. Of this commission Baron Shibusawa, Japan's great 



HOW IT CAME ABOUT 



industrial captain, was chairman. For weeks before the visit 
of this commission to Pittsburgh 600 of the girl employees of 
Mr. Heinz's factory had been in training by a Japanese leader 
engaged by Mr. Heinz for this purpose. When the distin- 
guished visitors appeared on the platform of the spacious dining- 
hall the 600 imiformed girls arose on signal, lifting from 
beneath each of their aprons Japanese flags which had been 
concealed,gave their "Banzai! " (10,000 yearsof life, prosperity, 




and happiness), and sang in Japanese the Japanese national 
anthem. Some of the visitors were affected to tears by this 
incident and the singing of the hymn of their nation, a nation 
which is hardly matched in the world for the splendid sacri- 
ficial devotion and high patriotism of its people. 

And during the party's tour through Japan and Korea 
full proof was given by Japanese officials that they remem- 
bered gratefully their Pittsburgh experience. 



lo A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Copies of the general letters of introduction were forwarded 
to national leaders, consuls, chambers of commerce, leading 
missionaries, and Sunday School representatives in Hawaii, 
Japan, Korea, China, and Russia, and a schedule arranged 
covering a stop at Hawaii, six weeks in Japan, two weeks in 
Korea, and three weeks in China, arriving in Japan March 
1 8th, and leaving China via the Trans-Siberian route June 
2d. 

As a part of this general Oriental visitation, Rev. A. M. 
Williams, a Sunday School specialist of the Presbyterian 
Church, left San Francisco December 26th to make a visita- 
tion of the Philippines, Hong Kong, Canton, and Shanghai, 
planning to join the general party at the convention of the 
National Sunday School Association of Japan at Osaka, April 
1-3, not long before the bursting forth of the cherry blossoms, 
which typify Japan's perennial beauty and the hope of Japan 
and the Orient through the blossoming out of its childhood 
into Christian character through the teachings of the Sunday 
School. 

In every bit of the planning God's guiding hand was won- 
derfully manifest, and when the members of the party were 
advised to meet at San Francisco prepared to sail March ist 
by the steamship Tenyo Maru of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha line, 
everything indicated the success of the plans made. But few 
of the party dreamed of the wealth of welcome that lay ahead 
and the measure of service to the kingdom that was to be 
made possible in the months following. Mr. Heinz's careful 
attention to the details of the planning, and his emphasis 
upon the importance of the presence of strong Sunday School 
business men as members of the party, were among the factors 
that greatly contributed to the tour's success. 

And now with this imderstanding of the purpose and aims 



HOW IT CAME ABOUT ii 

and plans of the " 29 Sunday School varieties," as the party 
came to be known, let us proceed westward on the fascinating 
journey to the lands which catch the imagination of the 
traveler and which are destined to play an immense part in 
shaping the destinies of the world of the Occident as well as 
the Orient, in the years just ahead of us. 



CHAPTER II 
AT THE GOLDEN GATE 



CHAPTER n 

AT THE GOLDEN GATE 

From eleven states and provinces they came, these 29, m- 
nocent as to experience in Oriental travel with three excep- 
tions, but eager, anticipating, prepared for a six months' tour 
in belting the world, with Zurich as the goal. 

The secretary of the party had warned each member of the 
strain incident to sLx months of traveling, and told all to keep 
sweet, and urged that all biliousness be eliminated from the 
body and spirit, preliminary to a start. Through the kind- 
ness of Mr. MothersiU, a sufficient supply of his remedy was 
on hand to help those of the party whose friends had asked 
to be written to in case anything came up and who were 
afraid they would have to write too often. And then it was 
thought well to put a check upon that fellow who wanted sLx 
meals a day, three down and three up. 

The Stewart Hotel of San Francisco was the rendezvous 
for the party. The members had reason to remember pleas- 
antly the courtesy of the hotel manager and of Mrs. Berry 
Goodwin, who was stopping at the hotel, and whose ministry 
to the girls of the dive district of San Francisco is " ringing 
bells in the far away." 

As these friends gather in the hotel corridor, or at the din- 
ing tables, let us be introduced, for most of us have not met 
before. Mr. H. J. Heinz, of Pennsylvania, our chairman, 
smiling, thoughtful, self-forgetful, never for one moment 

IS 



i6 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

quiet in body or brain, excepting in repose; Mr. Clarence 
Heinz, one of his sons; Mr. and Mrs. James W. Kinnear, 
Misses Jeannette and Esther and Master James Kinnear, 
of Pennsylvania; Mr. and Mrs. Harry Morton and their 
son Robert, of California; Mr. and Mrs. Edgar H. Hall, 
of Massachusetts; Mr. T. F. Harrison and Miss Daisy Chown, 
of Ontario; Dr. Charles E. Wilbur, of Pennsylvania; Miss 
Margaret E. Brown, of Nebraska; Miss Eloise W. Snell, 
of Iowa; Mr. and Mrs. William G. Landes, of Pennsylvania; 
Prof. Alvin W. Roper, of Indiana; Mr. Fred P. Stafford, of 
New York; Miss Anna B. Jones, of Ohio; Mrs. Douglas 
Smith and son Kenneth, of Illinois ; Miss Mary F. Moore, of 
Kentucky; Mrs. Julia Hotchkiss, of Pennsylvania; and Mr. 
and Mrs. Frank L. Brown, of New York. 

And there is a variety of talent represented here. Mr. 
Heinz, a manufacturer, is chairman of the Executive Com- 
mittee of the Pennsylvania Sunday School Association and 
on the Executive Committees of the International and World's 
Sunday School Associations; Mr. Kinnear, an attorney, is 
on the Executive Committee of the Pennsylvania State Sun- 
day School Association, the teacher of a Bible class of 300; 
Mr. Hall, a manufacturer, is chairman of the Adult Committee 
of the Massachusetts State Sunday School Association, and 
teacher of a class of 100 adults; Mr. Harrison is a merchant 
and a Sunday School superintendent; Mr. Morton is a 
merchant, a Sunday School superintendent, and chairman of 
the Executive Committee of his State association; Mr. Staf- 
ford, a merchant, is a Sunday School officer and president of 
his county association; Professor Roper is our musician; Dr. 
Wilbur is an editor and pubhcity man; Miss Brown is secre- 
tary of the Nebraska Sunday School Association, an elemen- 
tary specialist, and formerly superintendent of public schools 








THE GOOD SHIP " TENYO MARU " 
CREW MUSTER ON SHIPBOARD 




SOME or AMERICA S CHOICEST 
JUST BEFORE STARTING, SAN FIL^NCISCO 



AT THE GOLDEN GATE 17 

in her county; Miss Snell is superintendent of the secondary 
division of her State; the other ladies of the party are, most of 
them, Sunday School teachers; Mr. Brown is a Sunday School 
superintendent and a former banker. 

And now, after this lengthy introduction, let us look about 
San Francisco a bit. Mr. C. E. Fisher, the smiling secretary 
of the California Association, has been busy planning for the 
two days here and in Oakland. 

After the last shopping for forgotten things which there 
would be no opportunity of buying later — a necktie or 
collars, a thermos bottle, a steamer cap, buttermilk tablets, 
or cloth shoes to be put on when entering Japanese homes or 
temples — we VN'ent on board one of the palatial ferr^'-boats 
which ply between San Francisco and Oakland. The ladies 
of the party w^ere tendered a luncheon and reception by the 
ladies of the Graded Union at Oakland. In the centre of 
the table was a little toy ship named Tenyo Maru, with the 
Conquest flag at the topmast. The place cards were m the 
form of httle ships with the Elementary seal at the bow. At 
each place were tiny American and Conquest flags. 

The men of the party were meanwhile given a reception and 
dinner at the Oakland Hotel by the Oakland Chamber of 
Commerce, a body of 400 stalwart looking men, of which Mr. 
Harry Morton, of the party, was a member. The Mayor of 
Oakland spoke of the great future of their city, now number. 
ing 200,000. The largest ships can be cared for at the wharves 
soon to be built; unusual electric power is generated by taking 
advantage of the fall of a stream back in the mountains ; the 
climate is mild and bracing, and the homes and floral life 
superb. 

Mr. Heinz's response to the welcome dwelt upon "Senti- 
ment in Business," emphasizing character and teamwork as 



i8 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

the great essentials to success. The obligation of the business 
men of the nation to build religious character into childhood 
and youth as the country's greatest asset, without which all 
money-making was valueless, was spoken of, and the senti- 
ment applauded by the business men present. 

Autos then whirled the ladies and gentlemen of the party 
through Oakland and over Alameda and Berkeley, a circle 
of fascinating towns and cities abounding in sunny hill-slopes 
on which are built as beautiful and varied a style of bungalows 
as can be found in the country. 

At Berkeley the buildings of the university, where Mrs. 
Hearst and other wealthy women have put so much of money 
and splendid planning, were inspected. The buildings of 
white marble follow the Grecian style of architecture, with 
Corinthian pillars and noble fagades. The Greek open-air 
theatre is a magnificent sight, a replica of the one at Athens. 
Here under this beautiful California sky the graduates of the 
university assemble for their annual commencement, a scene 
of color and beauty that might well rival the assembhes of 
the ancient Greeks. 

At Oakland the party was privileged to see an astonishing 
display of preserved California fruits and flowers. By some 
process known only to the attendant and his daughters, the 
form and color of fruit and flower are preserved as freshly as 
when in full bloom and fruitage. The visitor marvels at the 
art which preserves in fadeless form these choicest expressions 
of the Creator's handiwork. 

In the evening the whole party was given a cordial recep- 
tion by the Alameda County Sunday School Association at 
the Congregational Church, and a hearty "Godspeed" ex- 
tended. 

Chinatown was visited the next day — not its doubtful 



AT THE GOLDEN GATE 19 

section, but the Presbyterian Mission Building, where mis- 
sions in miniature were seen in the Sunday School scholars 
gathered, who represented Japan, China, India, Korea, and 
the Philippines. A four-year-old Chinese tot recited without 
a break all the names of the sixty-six books of the Bible. She 
did not stumble once over Deuteronomy or Habakkuk. The 
young people gave a fine exhibit of their training, in song 
and recitation. The gorgeous dresses and bright faces of 
these black-eyed children of the Orient gave the party a 
foretaste of the miUions they were to see under many condi- 
tions before the journey's end. 

The men of the party had the privilege of visiting the print- 
ing rooms of the influential Chinese paper and received press 
copies of the day's paper from the hands of Ur Ng Poon Chew, 
the distinguished Chinese editor. Sun Yat Sen, who pro- 
moted the revolution that upset the Manchu dynasty, was 
in close relation with the editor of this paper. 

That evening the San Francisco Sunday School people 
gave an elaborate good-bye reception at the First Congre- 
gational Church. After addresses of welcome by the pastor, 
Dr. Wilbur, Mr. Kinnear, Mr. Landes, and Miss Brown made 
appropriate responses. Members of the party, tall, short, 
thin, and fat, were called to the front and introduced in turn, 
and the hospitality for which San Francisco is noted was 
extended the guests, refreshments were served, and a prayer 
for the party's mission offered, the evening closing with a 
hearty " God be with you till we meet again." 

Saturday morning, March ist, was a busy and eventful 
one for the party in doing the last needy things, writing home 
messages, getting trunks and themselves aboard the good 
ship Tenyo Maru (meaning "heavenly sea ship"), a ship 
oi 22,000 tons, one of the three splendidly appointed steamers 



20 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha line, under skilled Japanese manage- 
ment. 

The first thing aboard was to find your stateroom and 
bestow your baggage, then look in the cabin for mail, and chat 
with friends. Some of the shore friends must have a picture 
of the party, and so we are hustled up to the upper deck under 
General Heinz, and the first of a long series of trip photos was 
taken. 

San Francisco friends of the party are there: Bishop E. H. 
Hughes, Dr. Bovard, and Dr. Johnson, the latter Super- 
intendent of Missions at San Francisco, and who was dec- 
orated by the Emperor of Japan for his service to Japanese 
on the coast. 

The gong sounds for "All ashore! " the gangplank is drawn, 
Mr. Heinz's son Howard, who has stayed for the last moment 
with his father, leaps to the dock just in time to avoid a round- 
the-world journey, and the vessel moves slowly along the 
wharf and out into the bay. 

As the steamer moved away, we noticed a Chinese family 
on the pier scattering hundreds, perhaps thousands, of printed 
slips of paper on the water — Chinese prayers for a safe voyage 
for the steamer which was carrying to the Orient some of their 
loved ones. 

We head for the Golden Gate. The city of San Francisco, 
magnificent in its resurrection, fades from view, the Seal Rock 
and the Cliff House are passed, the land dims in the distance, 
the long ocean swell is on, and America, which we are not to 
see again for six months, passes from view. 



CHAPTER III 
A MID-OCEAN PARADISE 



CHAPTER III 

A MID-OCEAN PARADISE 

We were to be aboard the Tenyo Maru for eighteen days 
before we sighted Yokohama, a journey broken by one stop at 
Honolulu six days out. Two things it was, therefore, essen- 
tial to know: the limitations of our floating home, and the 
dispositions of our neighbors and the Umitations of our own 
dispositions, personal and physical. The physical disposi- 
tion of many was the limitation of their berth, and they were 
wiser than some who were more anxious to make a record 
than to cultivate internal peace. 

For a few days, therefore, there was a pamful shrinking 
from the gaze of others, and then, the struggle over, some 
monosyllables were exchanged from steamer chairs, which 
gradually expanded into sentences. The morning walk on 
deck when a side swell was on brought folks occasionally to 
a point of contact, excuses were made, and at the next passing 
you were friends. Comers of the mouth began to turn up 
instead of down, and shortly all but snobs or pessimists were 
on greeting or speaking terms. 

A voyage of discovery about the vessel brought to light 
that it was a steamer or 22,000 tons, four decks, 575 feet long, 
63 feet in breadth, built in Japan, three turbine engines, the 
furnaces consuming California oil from San Francisco to 
Yokohama and Japan coal from Yokohama to San Francisco. 
About fifteen knots an hour are made and the daily run posted 

23 



24 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

at noon was always a time of expectancy. The vessel ac- 
commodates more than i,ioo passengers, all classes. 

The staterooms, music room, lounging, and other rooms are 
furnished luxuriously, and every courtesy possible is extended 
by the ship's officers, some of whom are Japanese. 

After the first adjustment to conditions, the time on ship- 
board slipped by rapidly. Especially was this true with our 
29, who found much to talk about. The dining arrangements 
claim first attention. Our party was arranged at four tables 
on one side of the dining-room. Our chairman kept the party 
rotating about the tables to promote acquaintance. It should 
be said for the chairman and others of the business men of the 
party that, true to their business instincts, they drove a hard 
bargain with Father Neptune, and did not miss a meal. 
Some of the State secretaries seemed to have had some in- 
ternal difficulties in their organizations that detained them 
occasionally. 

Breakfast at 8:30, "tiffen" at one, and dinner at seven, 
with soup at eleven, tea and crackers at four, and a later 
repast at ten, keep the passengers fairly busy and satisfied. 

At ten o'clock the party gather in the music room, weather 
permitting, for morning devotions. Sometimes the music 
would strike the high C's, sometimes we would be backsliding, 
sometimes there would be mute appeals from white faces to 
make the devotions "short meter," but, nevertheless, the 
memories of those mornings, with the songs of the sea and the 
Scripture references to God's loving care of his children, will 
linger long and preciously. Business came into the session, 
the daily log was read in humorous vein by Mr. Stafford, the 
scribe, a class in Japanese words and phrases was drilled, 
committees were appointed on everything within the ken of 
mortal man, important letters read, and visitors introduced. 




KA^^■AIbHAO CHURCH, HONOLULU 
::.LNi)AY SCHOOL RALLY, KAWAISHAO CPIURCH 



A MID-OCEAN PARADISE 25 

The balance of the morning was consumed in shuffleboard, 
deck quoits, tennis, baseball, and deck tramping. 

Committee and general meetings were held daily in the 
chairman's room at four, when matters of importance relating 
to the work confronting us in the Orient were discussed, and 
the social touch completed with tea, California olives, etc. 

At one of these "four o'clocks " a distinguished Japanese, 
Dr. Takamine, a resident of New York, was invited by- 
Mr. Heinz, and introduced. Dr. Takamine, by several 
medical inventions of the highest value, had made an illustri- 
ous reputation in America as well as Japan. He graciously 
interested himself in the plans of the party, and when the 
vessel approached Honolulu cabled to Baron Shibusawa at 
Tokyo and helped to make possible a great welcome in Japan. 

We were in wireless touch for several days with San Fran- 
cisco, and later Honolulu, and the daily cable news was 
printed and distributed at dinner each night. 

Two or three times on the voyage the hoarse blast of the 
steamer's whistle was heard calling all hands to the fire drill. 
Within a few minutes buckets were in readiness, water spouted 
from the hose nozzles at different points, and the boat crews 
took their places prepared to lower the hfeboats. 

March 4th, Inauguration Day, was duly celebrated by the 
ship's company in a patriotic service. After dinner all as- 
sembled in the dining-room, which was gloriously decorated 
with American, Japanese, and Enghsh flags and bunting. 
Mr. Heinz presided. A Harvard professor, a Japanese doc- 
tor, and a missionary from Shanghai, the latter a relative of 
President Wilson, spoke, and a missionary from the southland 
pronoimced the benediction. The Philippine band gave 
added zest to this American event celebrated on a Japanese 
ship. The program is worth noting : 



26 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

CELEBRATION 
In honor of the inauguration of 
HON. WOODROW WILSON 
PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES 
Dining Saloon, S. S. Tenyo Mam 
At Sea, March 4th, 1913. 
"The name of America, which belongs to j-ou in j-our national capac- 
ity, must always exalt the just pride of patriotism." 

— Waski>!gto)i's Farewell Address. 

PROGRAM 

(i) Prayer Rev. J. J. Chapman, of Virginia 

(2) Overture Tenyo Mani Orchestra 

(3) Chorus "Battle Hymn of the Republic" 

(4) Address "America and Japan" 

Dr. Jokichi Takamine of New York 

(5) Chorus "The Star Spangled Banner." 

(6) Piano Solo Medley of National Airs 

Prof. A. W. Roper, Indiana. 

(7) Address "Our New President" 

Dr. Samuel I. Woodbridge, Kentucky. 

(8) Chorus "America" 

(9) Address "Universities and the Narion" 

Prof. Francis G. Peabody, of ^Massachusetts. 

(10) Benediction 

Rev. W. H. Hudson, Soutli Carolina. 

At the close of the program the Japanese present gave 
three "hurrahs " for the President, and the Americans three 
"Banzais " for the Japanese Emperor. It was a great even- 
ing. 

On Thursday, before landing at Honolulu, Mr. Heinz 
entertained the missionar>^ men in his stateroom. Mrs. 
Kinnear, of Pittsburgh, became hostess to the wives of the 
missionaries, and Miss BrowTi had a party for the missionary 
children in her room. ISIiss Brown used the Conquest and 



A MID-OCEAN PARADISE 27 

Christian flags for decorations, the steamer trunks for seats, 
and the nine children had a gay time with games, stories, 
songs, and candy. 

Every evening moving pictures, music, or lectures on Japan 
or China helped to while away the time, but after six days the 
fact that we were to land shortly at Honolulu gave joy to us 
all. 

In the very early morning of March 7th we passed the 
leper island of Molokai, forty-eight miles from Honolulu and 
2,000 from San Francisco. Fertile, beautiful, majestic in its 
mountain Hfts, the island is yet desolate in one respect, for 
here nearly 600 lepers are shut away for life. Their settle- 
ment by the sea, with frowning mountains behind, is organized 
into a community with four churches, halls for debating and 
singing societies, a moving-picture auditorium, hospital, and 
provision for outdoor sports, such as baseball. There is 
leper government, too, through their own magistrate and 
court officers. 

By making their life thus attractive, it becomes easier to 
remove to this island those at Honolulu and elsewhere who 
suffer from this disease. Only those who have seen leprosy 
in the East can appreciate what it means to a leper to be con- 
sidered an outcast and not a citizen. 

The lights of Diamond Head, our national government fort, 
near the water's edge, were the first notification that we were 
nearing Honolulu, and a few minutes later we had dropped 
anchor in the harbor of this mid- Pacific paradise. The city 
fringed the long circular sweep of shore. Residences and 
hotels, set in graceful palms, stretched along the water's edge 
well up to Diamond Head. Back of the business section 
of the city rose the hills, terminating in a jagged skyline. The 
red of the soil contrasted with the bright green of the ver- 



28 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

dure. These hills were dotted with hundreds of beautiful 
bungalows, vine covered, set in masses of palms and bou- 
gainvillaea of brilliant hues. 

After breakfast, at seven, we were lined up on deck for 
medical inspection, and after a number of excursions to the 
rooms by the stewards to bring to light missing passengers, 
we swung alongside of the dock to disembark for the day. 

At the gangplank we were met by the Hawaiian Committee, 
consisting of Rev. H. P. Judd, Rev, John T. Erdman, Rev. 
A. A. Ebersole, Mr. Theodore Richards, Rev. John H. Wad- 
man, Mr. Henry Castle, Dr. Doremus Scudder, Mr. Atherton, 
and genial Bishop Naphthali Luckok, who was in Honolulu 
holding a Methodist Conference. Autos were in waiting 
for our party, and soon we were whirled through the city 
streets and the main road along the sea to the wonderful 
aquarium, noted the world over for the finest collection of 
fish of brilliant hues and strange forms. Here, outside of the 
aquarium and with a background of royal palms, we had our 
pictures taken. The trip covered the barracks at Diamond 
Head, the Mid-Pacific Boys' School, where thirteen different 
nationalities were gathered in one school, and the girls' school, 
where the exquisite singing by the girls of many nations moved 
us to tears. Then the college grounds w-ere visited, set in 
royal palms and gorgeous foliage. Masses of the purple 
bougainvillaea aroused exclamations of delight all along the 
journey. Up the valley we went several miles to the Pali, 
where the valley ends abruptly in a great cliff set between two 
guardian peaks. Over this cliff the conquering King of 
Hawaii, having defeated all the chiefs of the various islands, 
drove the retreating enemy, 4,000 of them, to their death a 
thousand feet below. 

A bronze tablet set in the red coral rock tells the story of 



A MID-OCEAN PARADISE 29 

this defeat. Mr. Heinz ordered the tablet restored and en- 
closed in plate glass at his expense as a memorial of our party's 
visit, and his offer was accepted by the Daughters of Hawaii. 
The mists had gathered about the Pali and hid the view from 
the cliff; then as we waited the mist banks cleared, revealing 
what some of our party declared the finest vista they had 
ever seen of cultivated plain stretching out to the sea. 

Lakes dotted the landscape, and the rich red and browns of 
this volcanic soU gave a glorious setting for a carpet of bright 
green. But we had but one day here, and we were hurried 
off down the valley past choice homes with beautiful grounds 
surrounding, to the Bishop school for native Hawaiian boys 
and girls. Mrs. Bishop was the last real descendant of the 
old royalty, and left a good share of her fortune to maintain 
this school. In fact, this spirit of generous giving for church 
and educational purposes at Honolulu is wonderful. The 
wealthy residents give hundreds of thousands of dollars to 
advance the work of education among the thirty thousand 
children of school age, embracing Portuguese, Chinese, Jap- 
anese, Filipinos, Koreans, and children of the South Sea 
Islands, and here each morning these children of many races 
salute the Stars and Stripes as their flag and sing the national 
anthem, two thousand miles from America, with as much ap- 
preciation of what it means to be an American, and possibly 
more, because of their needs, than in many a schoolhouse on 
the mainland. 

In the Bishop grounds is the wonderful museum, with the 
treasures of the trappings of the royalty of Hawaii — great 
plimies of feathers formerly carried in royal processions, 
gorgeous headgear and capes and robes worth hundreds of 
thousands of dollars, made from the feathers of the songbird, 
now extinct, that once was numerous on the islands. Under 



30 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

each wing tliere is a tiny tuft of yellow against the black, and 
this yellow tuft was taken from the bird to constitute, with 
millions of other tiny tufts, a royal robe. The last wearer 
of the robe, Queen Liliuokalani, or "Queen Lil " for short, who 
surrendered the government of the islands to the United 
States, is now a quiet resident of Honolulu. We saw her mod- 
est home, and there are many of her relatives with empty 
titles who reside at Honolulu. 

In that museum is a replica of the great crater which is on 
an adjoining island and is constantly boiling, but rarely breaks 
over. A life-size group of natives is shown making their 
native dish of poi. This is made from a root similar to our 
calla lily. This root they beat into a sour paste that takes the 
place of bread. One of the party who had a taste of it on a 
previous visit said it was suflScient to last a lifetime. It is 
eaten by the natives by dipping their fingers in the dish, giv- 
ing them a twist, and hence to the mouth. 

A group is shown making the native cloth, which was made 
from the pulp of a tree and then beaten into softness and form. 
Carvings of their ancient gods in stone and wood, something 
similar to the Alaskan totem poles, are shown here. 

The Hawaiian people are gradually dying out or lost by in- 
termarriage with the Chinese and Japanese. Strange to say, 
the children of such marriages are vigorous and progressive 
and among the best of the population of these beautiful 
islands. 

From the museum we were taken to luncheon at the Cen- 
tral Congregational Church and waited on by the ladies. 
The delicious, fresh pineapple will not soon be forgotten. Dr. 
Scudder presided. We were honored by the presence of 
Governor Walter F. Freer. Addresses of welcome were made 
and responded to. One thing was clearly manifest in all that 



A MID-OCEAN PARADISE 31 

was heard and seen : These enterprising workers propose to 
round out the splendid educational and Christian work of 
these islands and make types that can be transferred to the 
different countries of the Orient as these bright young people 
and their parents return to their homes. 

After luncheon the party adjourned to the old Kawaishao 
Church, the oldest in the islands, built of coral rock. This 
church was supported largely by the royal family. Here 
there was a great Sunday School gathering of children, Ha- 
waiians, Portuguese, Japanese, Filipinos, Chinese, and other 
nationalities. The singing was wonderful. The glee club of 
young men, dressed in natty suits, was fine. Mr. and Mrs. 
Landes sang and Professor Roper played. The glee club 
sang the Hawaiian national air, followed by their farewell 
song, and gave their musical word for good-bye, "Ahola!" 

At five o'clock we were on board ship, tired but happy. One 
of the last to cross the plank was Mr. Heinz, who had waited 
to buy out a vendor of bright-colored paper wreaths and 
scarfs, and in these "glorious garments clad," he came aboard. 

As we steamed away from the pier a bunch of boys com- 
peted for the privilege of diving for the stream of coin scat- 
tered by passengers upon the water. Skilfully they would 
gauge the descent of the coin into the water, and recover it 
before it had gone too far below the surface. 

We moved out from Honolulu "in the glory of the sunset, 
in the purple tints of evening," bound westward for that long 
voyage of eleven days, during which we were destined to see 
no vessel. We gathered at the forward deck and sang 
" Softly now the light of day," as the sim sank in the west and 
the clouds at the sunset were suffused with rose and saffron 
and deep red, and then "Jesus Saviour, pilot me," as we looked 
out upon the pathless sea, 4,000 miles of which we should 



32 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

cross before we should see the shore line of Nippon. Behind 
us shone from the land one brilliant shore Hght, a suggestion 
of God's eternal love-watch over his own. 

Halfway up to the zenith was the crescent of the new moon, 
and just below that, Jupiter, the evening star, shone with a 
brilliance possible only in a southern sky. Tennyson's lines 
from "Crossing the Bar" leaped to our lips: 

" Sunset and evening star and one clear call for me, 
And may there be no moaning of the bar, when 
I put out to sea." 

On Monday night, March loth, we retired, to wake up 
Wednesday morning, March 12th. No one was excepted 
from this long sleep. This sleep occurred at the 180th meri- 
dian of longitude, where we dropped a day into the mid- 
Pacific. Gomg westward with the sun, we had been gaining 
an hour every thousand miles of travel. The accumulation 
of these hours to twenty-four is adjusted where it will do least 
harm by omitting a whole day, and, crossing that Rubicon, 
the world goes on as usual. Going eastward, you put in an 
extra day, and it is here possible, you see, for two Sundays to 
come together in one week, if the captain so disposes, and 
there are enough ministers aboard to go round. 

One bright day succeeded another. Fh-ing-fish were spied 
skipping across the teeth of the waves. The ship's organized 
sports were on — potato races, chalking pig's eye, blind fenc- 
ing, pillow fight over spar, ginger ale and cracker roll, egg 
and spoon race, shot put, broad grin, suit case race, and whist- 
ling races. Women played the men at baseball, the men 
dressed in hobble skirts. 

One evening a concert was given. Our men sang "Johnny 
Schmoker," as a stunt. The \ice-president of the Reading 





SURF RIDERS, HONOLULU 
THE CAPITOL, HONOLULU 




AT THE AQUARIUM, HONOLULU 
A HONOLULU CHRISTIAN GIRLS ' SCHOOL 
BISHOP LUCKOK AND PARTY, HONOLULU 



A MID-OCEAN PARADISE 33 

Railroad performed on bones or clappers. Professor Roper 
gave several selections. Dr. Takamine and Dr. Woodbridge 
gave interesting talks on Japan and China. 

The daily ten o'clock meetings of the party were continued. 
The devotional leader was changed each morning, the "log" 
grew daily more spicy as increasing acquaintance gave added 
interest to party episodes. Missionaries added blocks of 
information to the party store. Mr. Obee, a missionary 
from Nagoya, Japan, drilled the party in Japanese phrases 
and customs. Miss Brown composed the party song, "On 
to^the Orient," which became the subject of frequent prac- 
tice, sung to the tune of "Loyalty," and the party's cry was 
finally evolved by Mrs. Hotchkiss. 

The party was divided into four groups, with a leader for 
each, to visit the leading cities of Japan, and the itinerary of 
each laid out and the plans for the different gatherings dis- 
cussed. Committees on transportation and details relating 
to the party's comfort ashore were named. The chairman 
forgot nothing that would contribute to the welfare of the 
party, even providing for the cabling to America regularly 
of the health of its members, this information to be forwarded 
from Pittsburgh to each home interested. 

March 17th came almost too soon, and an air of expectancy 
pervaded the ship as we drew near Japan. Wireless messages 
were received from Japanese friends welcoming the party, 
1,000 miles from land, and appropriate responses sent. 
Letters homeward were completed, and everything was made 
ready for the morrow. 



CHAPTER IV 
AT THE GATE OF THE ORIENT 




DESCENDIXG THE GANGWAY, YOKOILllLA. 
IN THE PARLOR OP THE "TENYO MARU" JUST BEFORE LANDING 




THREE LASSIES OF TOKYO 

CHILDREN IN HONGWANJI TEMPLE GROUNDS, KYOTO 

AT CIL\MBER OE COj^OIERCE BANQUET, YOKOHAMA 



CHAPTER IV 

AT THE GATE OF THE ORIENT 

On the morning of March i8th the passengers were early 
on deck. The chill of the morning warned the party that 
we were much farther north than Honolulu. We strained 
our eyes for a vision of peerless Fujiyama, Japan's sacred 
mountain, 12,365 feet high, which rises majestic, snow capped, 
a sight never to be forgotten. The fog over the bay pre- 
vented the sunrise view. As the fog slowly lifted, we made 
out the high cliffs of the harbor, and slowly steamed toward 
Yokohama. 

The Japanese medical inspectors and attendants came 
aboard and we were duly counted and looked over. The 
tugs brought a delegation of newspaper reporters, and one 
new^spaper woman. We were snapped right and left. One 
man brought a bunch of the Japan Times, issued that morn- 
ing, with the compliments of the editor, containing head- 
line accounts of the visit of the "Business Men's Sunday 
School Tour Party," as we came to be known throughout 
Japan. 

The wife and son of Mr, Asano, the president of the Toyo 
Kisen Kaisha Steamship Company, owners of the line on 
which we sailed, came aboard to greet us as a special courtesy 
to our party. Several of the officers of the Sunday School 
Association of Japan also came out in the tug. As we caught 
sight of Mr. Ukai, the genial chairman of the Board of Man- 

37 



38 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

agers of the Association, we shouted "Banzai! " to the delight 
of our Japanese friends. 

These officers brought artificial white roses to distinguish 
the party, the welcoming party wearing red roses. As we 
drew alongside of the wharf a host of friendly faces appeared. 
Bishop M. C. Harris was there, honorary Methodist Bishop 
for Japan and Korea. Mr. Heinz, in high silk hat, stood at 
the steamer's landing and was the centre of interest for news- 
paper men. Up the gangplank came important officials, the 
president and officials of the Yokohama Chamber of Com- 
merce, Mr. Sammis, the United States Consul General at 
Yokohama, the Mayor of Yokohama, and other officials. 

Introductions followed and then the party gave with a will 
our cry: 

World's S. S. A., 

The globe we span, 

We greet and say 

"Banzai! Banzai!! Banzai!!! Japan!" 

And the Japanese friends shouted back their approval. 

Then came baggage inspection, greatly facilitated by the 
good offices of the Missionar\'^ Reception Committee efficiently 
directed by Mr. Coleman. 

The party was to have here its first experience with the 
jinrikisha, or man-carriage, invented by a missionary, and the 
popular carriage in Japan and the port cities of China as well. 
As we emerged from the custom-house, the alert proprietors 
of these two wheeled vehicles lined up, and soon twenty-nine 
of these carriages were conveying their shouting passengers 
along the water front to the Grand Hotel, where luncheon 
was to be served. All went well until it came to settlement 
for the carriages. Then the difficulties of a foreign language 



AT THE GATE OF THE ORIENT 



39 



were apparent. The man who was told ni-ju-go (25 sen) 
equal to 12^ cents of our money, and gave instead 50 sen, 
wished he had paid a little better attention to the Japanese 
kindergarten lessons on board ship. But experience is a 
sharp teacher, and the Japanese riksha man can usually be 
depended on to charge or accept the right fare. 

In the afternoon the entire ship's company was invited 
to Tokyo, to the home of Mr, Asano, the president of the 




steamship company. This is one oi the finest homes in 
Japan. In the garden were Japanese stone lanterns, storks, 
pine trees bent into odd shapes by Japanese art when the 
trees were young. At the door we were obliged by Japanese 
custom to put on slippers over our shoes in order not to in- 
jure the thickly padded rice matting. Strange looking 
Japanese demons looked out upon us (in wood) from either 
side of the staircase; beautiful vases, rare screens painted in the 



40 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

martial figures of old Japan or decorated in cherry blossoms, 
pines, or chrysanthemums or plum branches, gave everywhere 
the touch of Japanese genius. The host and his family 
waited at the inner doors, or rather rolling screens; interpreters 
conveyed our salutations, and our friends bowed with the 
grace only found in Japan. We felt how rude we were as 
Americans in comparison, how thoughtless of life's fine cour- 
tesies. When seated, the gayly dressed Japanese girls waited 
upon us with tea and Japanese cakes and candy and custard. 

We then looked over the beautiful home and w^ere served 
with ceremonial tea, a thick green fluid which was brought 
by the daughter and granddaughters of Mr. Asano and serv^ed 
with a certain set of steps and bowings. Then came a Jap- 
anese entertainment: jugglery, playing on the goto, bewa, 
etc., a sort of banjo music, to which accompaniment they sing 
in a monotone the legends of old Japan. 

Returning to Yokohama, an hour's run from Tokyo, we 
were glad for a night's rest ashore, after three weeks on the 
ocean. 

The clatter of the wooden shoes upon the hard pavement 
of the streets in the early morning was sufl&cient of an alarm 
clock to the American traveler. After breakfast some of the 
party took the trip to Kamakura, the old capital, to see 
especially the Dai-butsu ("great image of Buddha"), a 
bronze image 135 feet high. This is next to the largest image 
of Buddha in Japan, the largest being the Dai-butsu at Nara, 
which is 138 feet in height. The party climbed up by ladders 
into the body and head of the Buddha. The temple of 
Hachiman, the God of War, nearby, is a noted one. The 
armor of old Japan in this temple is of special interest. The 
walk over the long bridge to the Island of Enoshima, near 
Kamakura, will reward the traveler because of its caves, its 



AT THE GATE OF THE ORIENT 41 

scenic beauty, old temples, and winding walks around the 
bluffs. 

The party was entertained by the Chamber of Commerce 
at Yokohama with an elaborate dinner. The American 
Consul, the Mayor, the president of the great dock company, 
possibly the largest in the world; the president of the great 
Formosa sugar industry, and the \dce-president of the Yoko- 
hama Specie Bank, Japan's largest bank, were among those 
present. 

The Mayor spoke of the cordial relations existing between 
Japan and America since the day when Commodore Perry 
landed at Yokohama, and of the need of cultivating these 
relationships in \dew of the ine\dtable increase of commerce 
between the two countries "^ith the opening of the Panama 
Canal. 

The president of the Chamber of Commerce voiced the 
welcome of the business men of the city to the American 
party which had come not simply to see the industrial life of 
Japan but to bring as Sunday School men help in the solving 
of Japan's spiritual problems. 

Consul General Sammis presented figures showing the large 
increase in the imports into Japan of American products in the 
recent past, the value of Yokohama as a port, and of the im- 
portance of conserving Japan as a market for American goods. 

Mr. Heinz andMr. Kinnear responded fittingly for the party. 

A visit to the silk shops followed the dinner, and the party 
watched the skilful Japanese artists painting their wonderful 
fans. These were presented as souvenirs to the guests, as 
well as candy made into exquisite floral designs. 

From the silk shops jinrikishas were secured to bear the 
party to the Shilo Church, where was witnessed the first one 
of many large rallies of the Sunday School children and young 



42 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

people of Japan. There were i,ioo in the gatheruag, and 

they made a picturesque throng; girls in their best kimonos 

of many hues, and the boys almost invariably with miUtary 

caps. One group of the children sang, "Jesus loves me," in 

English. A class of teen-age boys, numbering seventeen, 

sang a song. Miss Brown displayed the flags she had brought 

from home, that of the United States and the Conquest and 

Christian flags, and told her purpose to add the flag of each 

country visited until her return home to Nebraska. This was 

the first occasion on which the addresses had to be interpreted 

and was therefore an interesting experience. It takes about 

twice as long to interpret in Japanese as to give the same 

thought in English, owing to the necessity of so reconstructing 

the thought as to adapt it to Japanese life and understanding. 

For the first time the members of the party sang here 

their party song: 

ON TO THE ORIENT 

Written on Board S.S. Tenyo Maru for 
the World's Sunday School Commission. 

(Tune — Loyalty to Christ.) 
Across the waters blue 

We bring a greeting true. 
The world for Christ, the world for Christ, the world for 
Christ, we sing. 
At Rome in nineteen seven, 
The signal call was given. 
The world for Christ, the world for Christ, the world for 
Christ, we sing. 

Chorus: On to the Orient! 
On to the Orient! 
Cried the World's Committee, on! 

We moved at that command. 
In the Orient we stand. 
Commission Fovu-, Commission Four, Commission Four are we. 



AT THE GATE OF THE ORIENT 43 

So now we want it known 

How our Sunday Schools have grown. 
The world for Christ, the world for Christ, the world for 
Christ, we sing. 
In America 'tis well, 
And this we gladly tell, 
The world for Christ, the world for Christ, the world for 
Christ, we sing. 

Before the journey's end 

A week in Zurich spend; 
The world for Christ, the world for Christ, the world for 
Christ, we sing. 
In the World's Convention there 
We surely want to share; 
The world for Christ, the world for Christ, the world for 
Christ, we sing. 
-Composed by Miss Margaret Ellen Brown, General Secretary Ne- 
braska, U. S. A., State Sunday School Association. 



At the close of the entertainment tea was served around 
a table m an adjoining room. Boxes of flowers were brought 
in for the members of the party. 

The closing functions at Yokohama consisted of an evening 
gathering at the Kaigan Church under the joint planning of 
the Sunday School and public educational people of Yoko- 
hama. We found that the educational authorities of Japan 
were deeply interested in an inquir}^ as to the relation of the 
Simday School and public education, and the subjects that 
they wished discussed here and elsewhere bore upon the 
nature, methods, and the results of Christian education 
through the Sunday School. Ninety-eight per cent of those 
of school age are in attendance upon the public schools of 
Japan. This is a remarkable record, possibly not equalled 
in the world, and the system of education covers every step 



44 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

from the kindergarten to the many normal schools and the 
great universities at Tokyo. 

The problem in Japan is not that of education. The prob- 
lem there is the same as that in every other nation : the pro- 
duction of character upon which education must be founded 
if the largest and best use is to be made of knowledge. The 
old religions of Japan, it is felt, are not producing this char- 
acter and there was therefore a very eager interest to discover 
if the Sunday School, teaching as it does the great ethics of 
the Bible and founded in a spiritual experience, should prove 
to be the missing link in the plan of a complete education; 
and the fact that many of the members of this party were 
business men who were giving very largely of their time and 
means to the development of rehgious education through the 
Sunday School aroused a natural curiosity to learn from such 
men how far the Sunday School had proved equal to the needs 
of producing moral character and religious life in America and 
conserving patriotic devotion. 

The fact that 17,000,000 were now enrolled in the Sunday 
Schools of America and that many of America's foremost men, 
including the President and Vice-President of the United 
States and the Secretary of State, were the products of the 
Sunday School, gained a favorable hearing to the presentation 
of such facts to the audience at Kaigan Church and to other 
gatherings in Japan. The fact that Christian education 
through the Sunday School was a natural supplement to the 
education of the pubHc school was noted with interest, for 
America and Japan are alike in that religion as such is not 
taught in the pubhc schools. 

After the evening gathering a social time was spent in a little 
building adjoining the Kaigan Church, in which was held the 
first religious service on shore when Commodore Perry landed. 




TEMPLE OE HACHIMAN, KAMAEURA- 

DAI BUTSU, KAMAKUEA 

GUIDE HACHIMAN TEMPLE 

BEGGAR AT TEMPLE GATE 




A DOORWAY SCENE, YOKOHAMA 

STREET IN KYOTO 

GIRLS DRAWING CART, KYOTO 



AT THE GATE OF THE ORIENT 45 

At Yokohama is located the splendid Union Church, where 
visitors find a welcome always. Here, on the first Sunday 
of our stay in Japan, Dr. Wilbur of our party delivered one of 
the helpful messages which proved a benediction to mission- 
aries and native workers all along the journey, at Nagoya, 
Mokpo, Seoul, Nanking, Peking, Mukden, and on train 
through Siberia. As the publicity author of the party, and 
in the distribution of 500 bimches of Sunday School literature 
at various points, Dr. Wilbur was of great service as well as 
in his special Sunday School messages. 

The stirring Sunday School messages of Mr. Harrison, Mr. 
Stafford, Mr. Landes, Mr. Hall, Mr. Kinnear, Mr. Morton, 
and the ladies of the party, here and throughout the Orient, 
were Hstened to with marked attention and appreciation. 

In Yokohama there are some 12,000 foreigners, principally 
English and American. Most of the foreign residences and 
many of the Christian educational institutions are located on a 
bluff commanding a splendid view of the harbor and shipping. 
The Sunday School work at Yokohama is well and inteUi- 
gently organized, and the entire mission development here is a 
credit to the various mission boards that are represented in 
this city. The generous welcome of the people was a choice 
introduction to the spirit of courtesy which followed the party 
throughout the empire. 

The splendid endorsement by America's leading men and by 
the newspapers of Japan of the spirit and purpose of the visi- 
tors was caught up by the press and by leaders all through 
Japan and contributed immensely to the general success of 
the tour. 

On the morrow we are to be in Japan's capital city for 
a series of events of unusual interest. 



CHAPTER V 
TOKYO AND ITS WELCOME 




COUNT SHIGENOBU OKUMA 
PRIME MINISTER OF JAPAN 




TOKYO WELCOME BANQUET 
SUNDAY SCHOOL RALLY, AOYAMA GAKUIN, TOKYO 





MEN S RALLY, Y. M. C. A. HALL, TOKYO 
SUNDAY SCHOOL RALLY AT SIXTH NATIONAL CONVENTION BEEORE IMPE- 
RIAL JAPANESE PALACE, TOKYO 




BRIDGE OVER MOAT, IMPERIAL PALACE, TOKYO 

IN BARON SHIBUSAWA'S GARDENS, TOKYO 

A TOKYO STREET SCENE 



CHAPTER V 

TOKYO AND ITS WELCOME 

We had paid a flying visit to Tokyo, the fifth city of the 
world, but now we were to spend several days in the bustle of 
the capital city. We left Yokohama at 8 :5o a. m., arriving at 
Tokyo at 9 '.^o in special cars provided by the courtesy of the 
government, which controls the railroad between Yokohama 
and Tokyo. Autos are in waiting at the great Shimbashi 
station. These autos are decorated with American and Japa- 
nese flags. We are hurried off to Mr. Okiu-a's Art Museum, 
which is open this morning especially for our party. The rich 
collection of ancient idols, curios, paintings, and screens, 
is probably not rivalled in Japan. These treasures of Jap- 
anese art had been at one time stored in Japanese temples, 
the gifts of its worshippers. In the anti-imperialist riots dur- 
ing the Restoration the temples w^ere threatened with destruc- 
tion, and at that time Mr. Okura begged that these wonderful 
Japanese art productions be spared, and he bought them for 
his coUection. 

From Mr. Okura's we went to partake of an elaborate 
Japanese dinner tendered the party by special invitation of 
Mr. Asano at his Tokyo home. As soon as we gathered in his 
beautiful home, tea and sweets of many sorts were served. 
Then we were seated at a long table udth two lacquer trays 
before us, one three or four inches higher than the other — 
the lower tray for the purpose of holding surplus dishes, 

49 



50 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

glasses, and vegetables, and the higher one for the more im- 
portant dishes. A pair of chopsticks completed the outfit, and 
though knives and forks were furnished, as a matter of courtesy 
to the guests, very few of the party used these American 
necessities. Soups and whole fish, lobster, rice, beans, bamboo 
sprouts, were m turn attacked with the chopsticks with varj'-- 
ing degrees of success. Mr. Heinz seemed to have a desperate 
time to get a mouthful, and we fear went away hungry. 

The fish served was a special one, expressmg gladness. 
In fact, nearly everything in Japan has a hidden meaning, 
missed by the stranger unless you are so fortunate as to have 
a Japanese friend to explain. Their reverence for age, for 
instance, is beautifully shown in their care of old trees. A 
red sHp with a gift marks it as a token of special friendship, 
and other httle things may be indications of high honor. 

From Mr. Asano's the party went to the great gathering of 
vSunday School children at "Aoyama Gakuin," the college 
buildings of the Methodist Compound. The large building 
was jammed with an audience of between 3,000 and 4,000, 
despite the hard rain. The singing was splendid. After 
various speeches each one of the five districts represented in 
the Sunday School gathering sent up balloons of large size and 
various colors. Attached to each of these balloons were 
streamers and on each one was a saying of Christ, such as "I 
am the Light of the World," "I am the Way, the Truth, and 
the Life." The commission sang its song and gave the com- 
mission cry. A moving picture was taken of the party, and 
at the banquet tendered on the next evening these pictures 
were shown, to the delight of the visitors and audience. 

Following the Sunday School rally a reception was given, 
attended by the missionary body of Tokyo, at the home of 
Mr. Davison. 



TOKYO AND ITS WELCOME 51 

In the evening at the Y. M. C. A. there were a large number 
present. Mr. Landes and others presented the greetings of 
the organized Bible classes of America, particularly those of 
Mr. Wanamaker's adult class of 900, which had deputed Mr. 
Landes to bear their special greeting to the men of Japan as 
follows: "Tell the men on the other side of the world that 
the Bible is the best book and Jesus Christ the only Saviour." 

Tokyo covers many square miles of territory. The houses 
have usually tiled roofs and are one story in height; the shops 
open to the street and the alert shopkeeper seated on rice- 
matted floors just within, waiting for customers. These 
merchants always welcome you with a smile, and if no pur- 
chase is made, they are just as smiling and courteous as if 
you had bought out their shop. They live with their famihes 
behind these shops which at night are closed in by screens or 
shutters. 

The main streets are entirely lined with shops. The people 
seem always busy, going or coming, and loungers are the 
exception. The families are brought up as a rule to certain 
trades and pursue these from generation to generation. The 
same is true of China. The small return for labor, where labor 
is so abundant, makes it necessary for every member of the 
family to keep occupied in order to sustain the home, espe- 
cially with the increased cost of living which is reflected in 
Japan as well as America. Men take the place of horses and 
pull and push carts loaded with immense burdens and they 
accompany their movements frequently with a song or 
intonation. Little girls and boys are carrying upon their 
backs their smaller brothers and sisters, and do it contentedly. 
Only occasionally do you hear these babies cry. 

The streets of Tokyo have undergone great improvement 
under a well-developed city plan. The avenues are being 



52 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

widened and there are many beautiful parks. Public build- 
ings of good proportions are being erected. The newly con- 
structed business buildings are often several stories in height. 
The frequency of earthquake vibrations has to be considered, 
however, in Tokyo, so that skyscrapers are not possible there. 
The canals which penetrate the city give opportunity for the 
economical movement of commerce. Electric car lines cover 
the city very thoroughly. 

The homes here, as elsewhere in Japan, are shut out as a 
rule from observation by board fences and the beauty of the 
Japanese gardens is therefore only seen as a matter of priv- 
ilege. Once within the restrictions of these fences, the 
visitor would see in the smallest space a reproduction of 
Japan's scenic life even though in miniature; little mountains, 
stunted pine and plum trees, stone steps set in odd relation to 
each other, little streams crossed by unique bridges, bronze 
storks, bushes cut in forms of birds and animals — all these 
may be found in comparatively small area. In fact, the 
Japanese do not put their best foot foremost. They will 
speak very humbly of what they have. In visiting the shops, 
the poorest goods are likely to be shown first and for only the 
interested are the best things brought out. 

After a night of rest, the splendid Chamber of Commerce 
building is visited. Here tea is served and the party is 
introduced to the leaders of Tokyo's industrial Ufe by the 
honored President of the Chamber of Commerce, Mr. Nagano. 

From this reception we were taken to the government 
schools where the silk industry is taught. Here the whole 
process of silk-making was shown to us under the guidance of 
Baron Shibusawa, the general of Japan's industrial develop- 
ment. We watched the steps of development from the 
silkworm to the cocoon stage, the separation of the cocoons 



TOKYO AND ITS WELCOME 53 

into various sizes, and then the hot water-vats where the 
girls skilfully gathered threads from eight of the cocoons 
to make one strand of silk, these in turn going into skeins 
and then shipped to America to be made up into silk fabrics. 

A fine luncheon followed at the home of Baron Shibusawa. 
The ladies were separately entertained by the Baroness. A 
little later we were made welcome to the beautiful Japanese 
garden of the Baron with its pines, winding walks, sweet little 
bridges over quaint streams, and wisteria arbors. Three times 
during the walk we came to surprise arbors where tea was 
served by our courteous hostess. The picture of the Baron 
and the party was taken on the steps of an imported Korean 
temple. 

Later in the afternoon a reception at the home of Count 
Okuma, now Premier of Japan, was given. Count Okuma 
represents the democratic tendency in Japan as contrasted 
with the system of bureaucracy, controlled by the "Genro," 
or elder statesmen, the great political cHque, which has been 
for years the power in Japan. Count Okuma is reverenced 
as Japan's great sage. He is a natural orator and promotes 
every movement that will build up his nation. His bright 
eye, expressive face, his features and hands emphasizing his 
speech, and his genial and genuine courtesy, made an impres- 
sion long to be remembered. His grounds were thrown open 
to us, and after serving tea, the Count spoke at length, voicing 
his pleasure that we had come on this mission to serve 
Japan's great need, and spoke of America as Japan's great 
teacher from whom she had been learning since the days 
of Commodore Perry. He said that he hoped the next 
World's Sunday School Convention would be held in Tokyo. 
He said that America was doing more for the moral im- 
provement of Japan than all the rest of the world, through 



54 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

the missionaries, and that Japan must look to America 
for all that is best in western civilization. In the address 
made later in the evening, he said, placing his hand on his 
head and heart in turn: "Japan may furnish me food for my 
head, but America must furnish me food for my heart," 
expressing in this way his sympathy with the purposes of the 
party. Count Okuma was the President of the great Waseda 
University, with 8,000 students. 

The evening gathering at the hotel was a fitting climax 
to Tokyo's welcome. The IMayor of Tokyo, Baron Sakatani, 
members of the Chamber of Commerce, educational leaders, 
Japanese Christians and missionaries united in a splendid 
reception to the party. The great dining-hall was festooned 
with the flags of the two nations. One enormous flag in the 
centre of the room had upon it the Japanese and American 
flags with an outline of a cross and crown between the two 
flags, and this design was reproduced in smaller flags which 
were in the hands of the children at the rally of the previous 
afternoon. Between the courses verses of familiar hymns 
were sung. At the conclusion of the repast Professor Roper 
played the national airs of Japan and the United States. The 
Mayor, Baron Shibusawa, and others, in an ofiicial way, ex- 
tended the welcome of Tokyo to Mr. Heinz and the party. 
They spoke of the fact that Japan had developed its industrial, 
educational, and military life, and that the large need at this 
time was the development of the spiritual, and that this had 
been neglected. Again and again, here and elsewhere, these 
leaders expressed the opinion that the visit of the party had 
come at a strategic time, in meeting Japan's need for the 
development of the spiritual. 

Mr. Heinz responded fittingly to these splendid manifesta- 
tions of the spirit of welcome, as follows: 



TOKYO .\ND ITS WELCOME 55 

"The first touch of the kindly welcome of your nation was 
experienced during the long voyage from San Francisco in the 
personal acquaintance and marked courtesy of your eminent 
countr>'man, Mr. Takamine, known the world over for his 
distinguished service in promoting the good health of the 
nations, in relieving suffering and prolonging life. Again, 
when a thousand miles from your coast, our party received 
welcome messages from your gracious people for all of which 
we are deeply grateful, and now as we touch your shores we 
are overwhelmed with these splendid courtesies. 

"We come to you with a message of good- will and friend- 
ship. In our relations with you as a nation, our Republic has 
stood for peace, from the days of Commodore Perr}% to whom 
you opened your ports, to the time of President Roosevelt 
and the treaty of Portsmouth, and of President Taft, who has 
sought to make war between great nations impossible. And 
this has been the attitude of your great Empire, whose three 
wars in the last two centuries have been in self-defense and 
for national honor. At times, agitators in the jingo press 
have sought to disturb our peaceful relations, but the Ameri- 
can people are determined that our friendship shall remain un- 
disturbed. 

''Our nations are one in the purpose to give every child born 
under our flag a chance for the best in education, and your 
marvelous record in establishing universal education of the 
highest type, within so brief a time, is the astonishment of the 
world, and has of itself given a deathless lustre to the name of 
your recently deceased Emperor. 

"In industrial enterprises we, too, are brothers, and under 
the leadership of such generals of industry- as your president, 
Mr. Otani, and Baron Shibusawa, and other great leaders, 
Japan has taken first rank in her business achievements. I 
was greatly inapressed with the t\-pe of business leadership 
represented in the Japanese Commercial Commissioners, 
whom we had the honor and pleasure of entertaining in our 
city, Pittsburgh, a few years ago. 

"There remains one other great field of achievement in 
which these nations should be united, and without which all 



56 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

success in war, in commercial life, and education is useless. 
I refer to the development of the character of the youth of 
the land through religious education. This, if achieved, will 
be Japan's crowning glor}^ This should command the best 
thought of your educational and business leadership. 

"You have sent many commissions to our country. Why 
not send one charged with the important mission of discover- 
mg the best plans for the moral and religious foundation of 
your youth? The result would, I believe, enrich Japan's 
future beyond your highest thought. Great hosts of our 
professional and business leaders are giving their time and 
money to the cause of religious education through the Sunday 
School, as the finest contribution to the welfare of the nation, 
in character building, in patriotism, and good citizenship. 

"I again thank you for your great kindness and considera- 
tion to our World's Sunday school Commissioners." 

The moving pictures of the Sunday School rally of the pre- 
vious day were then thrown on the screen as a surprise, and 
the visitors saw themselves in moving-picture form as they 
had been caught in their coming and going to the rally. 

The final day in Tokyo was Sunday and this day was oc- 
cupied with the visitation of Sunday Schools and the holding 
of a large workers' rally in the afternoon at the Y. M. C. A. 
At this workers' rally a resolution was enthusiastically passed 
urging that the W'Orld's next convention come to the city of 
Tokyo. The welcome of the capital city was complete, and 
from this point the party was to di\ade into groups carr^^-ing 
the word of greeting and of inspiration to some forty of the 
strategic centres of Japan. 

In the next chapter we shall follow the group, going north- 
ward. 



CHAPTER VI 
NORTHWARD TO THE SNOW LINE 



CHAPTER VI 

NORTHWARD TO THE SNOW LINE 

Leaving the busy centres of commerce, Yokohama and 
Tokyo, where the welcome of the general party had been so 
munificent, a group of fifteen went northward with Nikko, 
Utsunomiya, and Sendai as the stops for the main party, 
while a smaller group was to speed farther northward to 
Hakodate and Sapporo at the extreme north, points rarely 
\asited by the traveler. In fact, outside of a visit to Nikko, 
which is taken by most tourists, the trips northward and 
westward are largely ignored by travelers who usually go 
southward from Tokyo on the main line to Nagasaki, but, 
in doing so, a great deal of Japan's most beautiful scenery is 
overlooked and some of its most important centres neglected. 

It was on March 24th, early on Monday morning, that the 
party arrived at Nikko. There is a Japanese proverb which 
says, "Never say 'kekko' (beautiful) until you have seen 
Nikko," and the wisdom of this proverb is appreciated by 
every traveler who catches a glimpse of this famous temple 
city stretching up the mountainside to the groves of great 
pines enshrined in which are some of Japan's most famous 
temples. 

Approaching Nikko along the main road, there is an avenue 
of many miles in length, on either side of which is a crypteria 
of cedar trees hundreds of years old. It had been the custom 
of the reigning Shogun and his vassals for many years to 

59 



6o A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

make an annual pilgrimage along this avenue, lined with these 
majestic trees, to the temples of Nikko and to the tombs 
of lyeyasu and others of the famous leaders of Japan. In 
the old days a party preceded the Shogun's approach with 
branches of trees in order to sweep the avenue clear of evil 
spirits. 

Going through the main street of the village, a wonderful 
bridge of gold lacquer, which spans one of the most beautiful 
and turbulent streams of Japan, was crossed by the Emperor 
alone on this annual visit and was then closed until the follow- 
ing year. 

On the occasion of the visit of the party, limcheon was 
taken at the Nikko Hotel and the party proceeded up the 
main street of the village on either side of which were the 
curio stores, smiling Japanese inviting purchases. Some of 
the merchants sent out their scouts to accompany the party, 
and later guide them to the stores. 

Leaving the village a bridge is crossed and the stone steps 
were ascended leading up to the temples and shrines. Here is 
found the temple of the "Three Monkeys," these figures being 
carved on the exterior. One of these monkeys has his fingers 
in his ears, another upon his eyes, and another upon his lips, 
signifying, "Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil." The 
temples are beautiful in lacquerwork of gold, deep reds, and 
yellows and blues. They are kept in excellent repair by the 
gifts of royalty. Marvelous screens adorn the rooms, and you 
hear the deep-toned temple bells. Here shoe coverings are 
furnished visitors who are conducted through the rooms by 
robed Shinto and Buddhist priests. 

The ceilings of these temples and the exterior are carved in 
marvelous representations of birds and fruits and animals. 
Reverent worshippers bow before the images of Buddha or 



NORTHWARD TO THE SNOW LINE 6i 

other idols. Hands are clapped thrice to arrest the attention 
of the temple god, and the lips move in prayer. 

In one of these shrines there are rooms where students 
come, and for days kneel in prayer before an image of Buddha, 
going without food or water, in religious contemplation. 
Surely the God who knows the spirit of the worshipper does 
not fail to answer this silent quest for Himself. 

But the principal interest inNikko centres about the shrines 
of the great leaders. These gorgeous mortuary shrines were 
built in memory of lyeyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa 
Shogunate. His grandson, the third Shogun, is buried here 
also. These shrines were built about 1617 and have been 
embelHshed from time to time through the rich gifts and 
offerings of the dai-myos throughout the country up to the 
time of the Restoration (1868), when the Shogun abdicated 
in favor of the Emperor and handed over to him all the civil 
and military power. The ancestral shrines of the Mikados 
are at Yamada. The Nikko shrines are approached by a series 
of stone steps. The stone coping on each side, and the steps 
themselves are covered with moss, for under these enormous 
pines that shade these temples the svm does not easily pene- 
trate. The passion of the Japanese youth for hero-worship 
cannot be understood by those in western lands. This spirit 
of loyalty is carefully cultivated by Japanese leaders and out 
of it is developed a national unity that makes the Japanese 
count not the cost of personal sacrifice for the country they 
love. 

Leaving Nikko, the party arrives at Utsunomiya, a station 
on the way to Sendai, at seven o'clock in the evening. A 
stay at that place had not been contemplated, but it was found 
there was an hour here to spare while waiting for the Sendai 
train. A missionary by the name of Mrs. Fry, a courageous 



62 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

little woman, is the sole foreign worker at this place, and she 
pleaded so strongly with the members of the party to hold 
a meeting at her little chapel, that, although it was late, the 
visitors were glad to follow her request. There was a band 
of fifty boys and girls that met the party at the depot as they 
landed at Utsunomiya and sang "Jesus loves me." 

The meeting-place was one mile from the station; the rain 
made walking very unpleasant, but these boys and girls, and 
some fifty Japanese young women, ran alongside of the 
jinrikishas and marched in procession to the meeting-place. 

A reporter of the local Japanese paper, who up to that time 
had no good words to say for the little missionary and her 
work, begged for the privilege of attendance at these meetings 
and to take a picture of the party and to report the meeting. 
It appears that the great Tokyo and Yokohama dailies had 
made such elaborate reports of the visits and receptions at 
those two places that the press all through the country were 
awaiting the visit of the party in order to follow the lead. As 
a consequence, the coming of the members of the party to 
Utsunomiya was to be duly heralded and reported. 

Returning from the meeting, the party was accompanied 
back to the station, and as the train moved off, the children 
ran alongside for a little bit singing in English "God be with 
you till we meet again." Tears filled the eyes of many of the 
party at this beautiful expression of interest. 

After a night's rest in the sleeping car, which had been 
provided especially for the comfort of the party, the train was 
boarded at four o'clock in the morning, two stations from the 
city of Sendai, by five missionaries and some native workers 
in order to extend a preliminary greeting. At the next 
station three more came on the train, and some had to walk 
eight miles at that early hour in order to make this possible. 



NORTHWARD TO THE SNOW LINE 63 

When the train drew up at Sendai at 4:30 in the morning, 
there was awelcoming crowd of 600 of the leading cityofl&cials, 
citizens, missionaries, and native workers. A rousing wel- 
come was extended and the party conducted to the waiting- 
room at the station to be served with breakfast. Here the 
Mayor was present in person and gave his greetings. 

At 5 '.7,0 the group boarded another train making a side trip 
to Shiogama. At that place a large delegation was assembled. 
Specially prepared fireworks were sent up in great numbers, 
and the balloons and pennants all indicated a warm welcome. 
About one hundred business men and cityofficialswere waiting 
in a dignified line to receive the guests, and this at six o'clock 
in the morning. The school children were out in good num- 
bers. Two Shinto priests were there with the Mayor to 
bid the party a hearty welcome and to escort it to an inspec- 
tion of the famous temple. The visitors were admitted 
through an entrance only used by royalty, a mark of signal 
honor. At the shrine refreshments were served and the 
formal welcome was made by the Mayor, to which Mr. Harrj' 
Morton, as chairman of the group, responded. 

From Shiogama two government yachts, gayly decorated, 
were placed at the ser\dce of the party, bound through the 
famous Thousand Islands strung over the beautiful bay to the 
Island of Matsushima. This is a charming place. When the 
yachts reached the wharf a large number of school children 
met the visitors and ranged in two lines, the boys in one group 
and the girls in another. More skyrockets were sent up. 

It was now snowing hard and the great flakes upon the 
pine and cedar trees made a beautiful picture. The party 
climbed over the hills and through the caves and visited 
another old temple. Before this temple is a large gate, which 
is never opened except for some member of the royal family 



64 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

or very distinguished guests, and this was opened for the 
guests. 

Luncheon was served in a Japanese inn. The cook to pre- 
pare this luncheon had been brought up especially from Tokyo 
at the expense of the hosts. The Governor had made special 
effort to see that nothing was left undone for the safety of the 
party and had sent a detachment of soldiers to accompany 
the yachts. 

As the visitors came to the wharf, on the return trip, the 
school children bowed low their farewell. The party returned 
to Sendai at 1 130 and at the station was met by 1,200 Sunday 
School children ranged on one side of the road, and about as 
many children not attached to Sunday Schools on the other 
side. The Mayor, the Chief of Police, the members of the 
Chamber of Commerce, and hosts of citizens, probably num_ 
bering from 15,000 to 20,000 were there to give Sendai's wel- 
come to the guests. The commission cry was given, ending 
with a "Banzai," and the great throng responded with a real, 
mighty "Banzai!" The party was conducted to the homes 
of the missionaries for a little rest. 

It was now raining, instead of snowing, but this made no 
difference to hosts or guests. The guests were first guided 
through a building for an exhibit of the products of this prov- 
ince, and then taken to a large reception hall. The city 
officials had covered the stairs and floors of the building with 
cloth, at a large expense, so that the foreigners would not be 
required to take off their shoes. This mark of high courtesy 
would seem to be possible only to people trained for centuries 
to a first consideration for the comfort of guests. 

In the centre of the hall was a long table for the missionaries 
and the Sunday School guests. The Japanese men were 
ranged on one side of this table and the Japanese women on 




THE GOLD LACQUER BRIDGE, NIKKO 

IN AN IRIS GARDEN 

A PAIR OF japan's PRODUCTS 

VENDER OF MOLASSES CANDY 




HOKADATE SUNDAY SCHOOLS 
SENDAI SUNDAY SCHOOL GROUP AND BUDDHIST PRIESTS 



NORTHWARD TO THE SNOW LINE 65 

the other side. Tea and cakes were served and each one was 
given a box of candy to take home. The Mayor of the city 
made a very fine address which was responded to by the 
chairman, Mr. Landes, Mr. Stafford, Mr. Hall, Miss Brown, 
and Miss Snell. At the conclusion of this meeting a photo- 
graph of the company was taken on a beautiful hillside just 
before sunset, and later a copy of this photograph was pre- 
sented to each member of the group. 

In the evening the party was turned over to the mission- 
aries. Addresses were made to a gathering of some 600 of the 
students of the Sendai schools, for Sendai is one of the finest 
Christian educational centres in Japan. The whole atmos- 
phere of the place is pervaded with a high educational tone, 
and the intelligent and dignified bearing of the people that 
are met is noticeable. Christian missions have reason to be 
proud of the splendid exhibit of their work in this centre. 

As the party left Sendai one of the officials was asking from 
what Sunday School in America these visitors came. The 
reply to that question revealed the fact that all America was 
honeycombed with Sunday Schools. 

The missionaries assured the chairman of the party that this 
day at Sendai meant more for the cause of missions and the 
Sunday School work than anything that had taken place at 
any previous time, and the visitors counted the day one of the 
greatest in their memories. 

The principal party returned to Tokyo, but Mr. and Mrs. 
Landes, accompanied by Rev. Kakichi Ito, of Sendai, who 
was to act as official interpreter, proceeded northward to 
Hakodate and to Sapporo, the latter on the Island of Hokaido, 
the northernmost island of the Japanese group. 

At Hakodate the Imperial Government Railway sent two 
of its officers to conduct the party to Sapporo, a distance of 



66 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

250 miles. Sapporo was reached Thursday evening, March 
26th. A local committee and many native Sunday School 
workers, pastors, and town ofl&cials were in waiting at the 
station when the train arrived and escorted Mr. and Mrs. 
Landes to the Railway Club, where dinner was served. 

In the evening two very helpful and important meetings 
were held. The first meeting was for native workers and the 
audience was made up entirely of native teachers, super- 
intendents, and pastors, and was held from 7 to 8 130 o'clock. 

Following this, a mass meeting with an audience of about 
700 was held. This gathering was made up largely of stu- 
dents from Sapporo Agricultural College, which became a 
few years ago a department of the North Eastern Imperial 
Universit3^ Professor Clarke, of Massachusetts, took a 
leading part in the organization of this college. He was there 
but a short time, but left behind him a lasting impression. 
Among those who came under his Christian influence was 
Dr. Nitobe and Dr. Sato, both of whom came later to America 
to Johns Hopkins University when President Wilson was a 
student there. Both have since visited America as exchange 
professors. 

Sapporo is the capital of Hokaido and is the educational 
centre of the island. The population of the city is about 
80,000. No missionary educational work is done here but the 
foreign teachers in the government school are all Christians; 
classes for Bible study are permitted. 

Hakodate was the next town to be visited. This is a city 
of 100,000 population. Two splendid meetings were held 
here : one in the Methodist Mission School for Girls, and the 
other in the Methodist Episcopal Church. There was at 
both meetings an audience of about 700. 

In this island the snow continues the winter through, and 



NORTHWARD TO THE SNOW LINE 67 

the snowplow had to cut the way for the visitors through the 
snowdrifts, but there was a warmth of welcome that will not 
soon be forgotten, and the message of Mr. Landes and the 
sweet songs sung by himself and wife -will linger long in the 
memories of the enthusiastic people at these points. 

Both the Sendai and Hokaido parties returned to Tokyo 
filled with enthusiasm for their trip and with the highest 
appreciation for the splendid courtesies of city and railroad 
officials all along the line. 



CHAPTER VII 
A JOURNEY WESTWARD 



CHAPTER VH 

A JOURNEY WESTWARD 

Visitors to Japan rarely make the western coast. The 
chief Hne of travel is directly south from Tokyo to Nagoya 
and to Kyoto, which cities present countless attractions to 
the shopper and to those who love Japan's beautiful lacquered 
temples. Several of the party left Tokyo on March 26th 
for a westward journey, winding up through the beautiful 
mountains, penetrating tunnels, emerging from those tunnels 
upon bits of scenery that would rival that of Switzerland. 
Mountain streams wind along the valleys, and the houses 
perched on the hillsides remind one very much of the Swiss 
architecture. 

This party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Morton, Mr. Har- 
rison, and Miss Snell. Upon arrival at the station at Toyama, 
they were cordially greeted by a company of missionaries and 
Japanese. Included in that group was a Japanese lady whose 
daughter is at Vassar College. This girl has charge of the 
mission study work in that college for the Senior class and 
had committed to the care of one of the travelers a present 
from America for her far-away mother. One can imagine 
with what keen pleasure such a gift was received. 

At this point two meetings were held, and the band of 
faithful workers seemed overjoyed that the city had been 
visited. Before the addresses, a cordial address of welcome 
was given the party by Saburo Takai, a sixteen-year-old 

71 



72 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

boy. This was translated by Dr. Chiba, who was the mter- 
preter of the party, as follows: 

"Honorable guests and ladies and gentlemen: I deem it 
great honor to extend our hearty welcome to you who have 
come, with commission given of God, to this insignificant 
corner of west coast of Japan. You give us great stimulus 
and encouragement to do good for God and for humanity. 
Your earnestness in presenting your sacred cause overwhelms 
us. 

"Friends, 1 am told that long, long years ago, in Rome, 
they used to ring bells early in the morning. When the 
sound of the bells from all the churches was heard as if to say: 
'Get up, and pray to God for the work of the day,' then they 
were all obliged to get up, and the whole family, from master 
to servants, all joined in their prayer to God for the day, 
and their work was blessed. 

"Now, friends, let us not think of tliis as a thing of long 
past, of far-away Rome, but let us make it the thmg of the 
twentieth centur}' and of all of us. Though we are sepa- 
rated by the seas, may we from this side of the ocean, and you 
from that side, ring the sacred bells to extend His Kingdom 
and to elevate humanity; and let us wake up the slumbering 
world. 

" May God bless you in your journey romid the world." 

One of the students of the Toyama Middle School composed 
a brief letter to one of the party which will be of interest, and 
certainly for a begiimer in EngUsh he did remarkably well: 

"My noble Teacher: 

"i am student of Toyama Middle School, my name is 
Tomotsu Asagi. Thank you very much for your kindness 
a short time ago. When I listeneci to you at Nippon Kirisuto 
Kyokai. I felt ver\- pleas;\nt and yearn for you. I am sorrs' 
I heard that you start here by ten. I hope to have a teacher 
like you. I cannot forsake you. Ah, the sorrow of parting 



A JOURNEY WESTWARD 73 

when one would but cannot tear oneself away as is this case. 
But I can do nothing. I have no a good way, but I have 
only a good way, it is to write to me. If you have nothing 
better to do, though after you returned to your countr}^ 
please write to me often. So will do I." 

These Japanese boys do not lack ambition. In very man}' 
places in Japan the largest attendance at the meetings was 
that of the students of the Middle and High schools. These 
students are alert for the best; while many of them have re- 
linguished Buddhism and do not believe in any religion, they 
are natively religious and need only to be guided along chan- 
nels that \\tJ1 secure the consent of the intellect as well as the 
heart in order to become the strongest sort of Christians. 

Among the frequent visitors to the meetings that were held 
throughout the Empire were Buddhist priests. These priests 
seemed eager to learn the latest advances in Christianity. 
Some of them are broad-minded people and recognize the 
superiority of Christianity to much that is taught in their 
religion. 

Not far from Toyama a missionar}' met a Buddhist priest 
walking across the country. From the folds of his kimono 
the priest pulled out a Bible. This Bible was carefully marked. 
The missionary' asked the meaning of the marks, and was 
informed that one set referred to passages in which Buddhism 
and Christianity were largely agreed. Another set were 
those selections in which Christianity was distinctly superior 
to Buddhism, while a third series related to passages upon 
which further light was desired. The priest said that he 
frequently used the Bible in his temple service without men- 
tioning the source of the selections. 

From Toyama the party proceeded to Kanazawa, one of 
the most beautiful cities in Japan. The people are enter- 



74 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

prising, and the city is laid out in splendid form with attrac- 
tive parks. Potter}' is one of the chief industries. There is a 
strong educational work developed here, under the Presby- 
terian and Methodist churches. The meetings included a 
welcome banquet by the Chamber of Commerce. Rev. J. G. 
Dunlop, who was one of the first Sunday School workers for 
Japan, under the World's Sunday School Association, acted 
as interpreter, and helped the party greatly in their work. 
From Kanazawa the road lay down the west coast with 
Kyoto as the next point of interest. 

Kyoto is the city of wonderful temples, for this is the head- 
quarters of one of the chief Buddhist sects, but side by side 
w4th the activity of the Buddhists, Christian work is advanc- 
ing. Mr. Gorbold, one of the leading missionaries at this 
point, is conducting an excellent work in establishing missions 
in different parts of the city. The celebrated Doshisha 
College is located here. From this college hail some of the 
great preachers and leaders of Japan. It was one of the first 
Christian institutions of Japan. The founder and first presi- 
dent was Joseph Neejima. He is considered one of the three 
great educators of Japan, all of them now dead. 

The splendid Y. M. C. A. Building, erected by Hon. John 
Wanamaker of Philadelphia, is here, and one of the public 
meetings was held in this building. Kyoto is headquarters 
for Damascene ware and works of art. 

In our tours through the city with Mr. Gorbold we alighted 
at one of the busy corners adjoining which was a mission 
building. A song or two and a little talk in the open and a 
crowd is gathered and conducted at once to the room. Mr. 
Heinz was at one of these enthusiastic mission meetings. Mr. 
Gorbold asked the boys to smile, and as they did so, reminded 
Mr. Heinz of these live ivories. Mr. Heinz had a special 



A JOURNEY WESTWARD 75 

interest in a collection of ivories, but probably had never seen 
an exhibit quite so interesting. 

The Miyako Hotel, which was the home of a number of the 
party, is situated high up on the side of the mountains which 
encircle the city, and commands a magnificent view. As a 
special courtesy, the table of the members of the party in the 
dining-room was specially decorated in colors, and the word 
"Welcome" could be seen m many places around the room. 
This was the first real rest that the party had had and they 
thoroughly enjoyed every moment of their stay in this para- 
dise of the traveler. 

At the close of the meetmg at the Y. M. C. A., m which 
there were special greetings from the Chamber of Commerce 
officials, souvenirs of the city were presented as a mark of 
special distinction. 

The party united at the Sunday morning service with the 
splendid body of missionaries. This service was held at the 
Doshisha Chapel. 



CHAPTER VIII 
THROUGH THE HEART OF NIPPON 



CHAPTER VIII 

THROUGH THE HEART OF NIPPON 

Unless one has been in the interior of Japan, he has not 
seen Japan. The cities are modernized somewhat as to the 
dress of the people, for many Japanese men now wear foreign 
clothes. The buildings are modernized, in part, along the 
chief streets. An attempt is even made to modernize the 
business signs so as to attract foreign trade. For instance, 
" Furs made for ladies out of their own skins," " Shirts washed 
inside and out," "Cows' milk wholesaled and retailed." 

Certain English phrases are cultivated by the curio men. 
"We are waiting for you gentlemen " was heard by us several 
times as we returned from the temples of Nikko and found 
welcoming smiles and welcoming voices and welcoming tea 
on either side of the main street. 

The incessant going and coming in the cities is quite Ameri- 
can, too. The necessities of the Japanese home as heretofore 
referred to, especially in view of the requirements for attend- 
ance of the children at the schools, places the burden of home- 
sustaining upon all members of the household who can work, 
and one sees few idle people in Japan. Little children are 
carrying on their backs their little, and often big little, brothers 
or sisters, and cheerily doing their part in the upbringing of 
the home, and there are babies, babies, everywhere. Japan 
and Russia seem the only two nations which are making any 
special progress in the birth rate. 

79 



8o A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

One of the party groups made its way westward from Tokyo 
and then southward through the backbone of Japan, with 
stops at Maebashi and Nagano, traversing valleys flanked by 
picturesque mountains. 

These valleys are cultivated in small patches to barley and 
rice, wheat and millet, carefully irrigated wherever possible 
by streams. These patches are carried up the mountamsides 
a long distance, carefully terraced by stone walls, the stones 
cut and finely adjusted, givuig an appearance of artistic finish 
and neatness in every detail of the scenery. 

These Japanese cannot seem to do anything inartistically. 
The patches of grass, a few feet wide, separating the little 
bits of farms, are curved in graceful forms. Rarely do you 
see a straight Ime in Japan. The curve, the irregular, is 
seen in the shaping of their bridges, the winding of their 
walks, and the very steps across their Uttle streams. An 
American artist could not understand why a bridge across a 
little body of water went along in zigzag shape. He said a 
straight line was much better and would save time, and had 
failed to see that the unusual was the very heart of Japanese 
art. 

Along the country roads you meet an occasional jinrikisha 
and the frequent water carrier. The latter may be man or 
woman. The two hea\^^ buckets of water are suspended from 
either end of a pole, and the pole carried on the shoulder. 
The carriers often go along on a half run. 

The folks you meet are very friendly; a hearty "Ohayo" 
(good mornmg) will bring bacjc a response always, and the 
boys will salute promptly if you stop, touch your hand to your 
hat, and say, "Ski," meanmg, "Do you like me?" 

These country farmhouses are often thatched with rice 
straw, and the farmers will wear hats and capes made of this 



THROUGH THE HEART OF NIPPON Si 

straw. This is frequently a wet-weather protection, and on 
their feet in wet weather they will wear high-tide wooden 
shoes, the wooden uprights possibly six inches long. These 
shoes are held to the feet by a thong which passes between the 
big toe and the next one. 

The roofs of the village and town houses are as a rule tiled, 
the roof with a slight inward curve and projecting over as an 
eave. They say this curve in the tile is to prevent the evil 
spirits from lodging, as these spirits move only in straight 
lines. But I think the sense of artistic beauty is partly 
responsible. 

On the roof of a new house a tree is often fastened during 
construction to deceive the spirit into thinking that the house 
is a grove and not a dwelling, so that it will avoid abiding 
there. 

Maebashi was reached in a few hours after leaving Tokyo. 
A late lunch was served by the welcoming friends, and then 
the party hurried to the church for a children's rally, followed 
by a workers' meeting. The church was well filled, and a 
most interesting meeting was held, Mr. Stafford and Miss 
Brown speaking. 

The evening meeting was a general one which many non- 
Christians attended. In this city of about 40,000 the work 
was in charge of but three missionaries besides the native 
workers. Dr. and Mrs. Pedley, Congregational missionaries, 
cared splendidly for the party. 

Leaving Maebashi March 28th, early in the morning, 
Nagano was reached at 2 :t,o in the afternoon. These Japanese 
cars are not built for tall folks, and any tall people should 
bow their heads as gracefully as possible on entering the cars, 
or else there will be a reminder to carry in the form of a fore- 
head ridge. 



82 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

These roadbeds in Japan are mostly narrow gauge. Plans 
are in view for broadening the gauge, but the expense of this 
would be enormous, and must wait on other more necessary 
improvements. The roads are government owned, and one 
could not ask for finer management and detailed courtesy 
than is shown by every ofiicial and subordinate. To serve 
the government as an employee is considered a thing of dis- 
tinction, and it may be said for the comfort of American 
travelers that tips are rarely taken by these railroad employees. 

The cars are of three classes. First-class is used prin- 
cipally by nobility and Americans who want style, and it may 
be as a deliverance from the smoke nuisance, which you find 
frequently in the second-class cars, for the cigarette is found 
everywhere in Japan. Women and men smoke. The school 
regulation which prohibits smoking on public school premises 
is doing much to make better habits on the part of the young 
people of Japan. School girls especially are rarely found 
smokmg. 

To the credit of the Japanese be it said that there is now a 
law which prohibits minors from smoking. This law was 
introduced in the Diet by Mr. Nemato, a Methodist member 
of the House of Representatives. 

As you enter the second-class car you will find cushioned 
seats running the full length of the car. Our Japanese friends 
bring a blanket with them. These blankets are frequently 
handsome. They spread this over two seats of space, sit on 
their feet in the usual fashion, and place their ample bandana 
handkerchiefs, in which their belongings are tied up, alongside 
of them on the blanket. They are likely to smoke parts of 
half a dozen cigarettes in a short time. 

It is related that an American traveler, who thought he 
knew a little Japanese, placed his suitcase in the car rack. 



THROUGH THE HEART OF NIPPON 83 

In a turn in the road the suitcase was dislodged and came 
down on the head of a Japanese. The American said fer- 
vently, "Arigato" (thank you), instead of "Gomennasai" 
(excuse me) . 

At the stations en route you hear the cries of the vendors 
of oranges, tea, sweets, and luncheon. "Bento" (luncheon) 
is a very musical and welcome cry for those who like Japanese 
food of plain rice put up in a neat wooden box with a second 
story of various condiments of daikon (a root of strong flavor 
much eaten in Japan) or bamboo sprouts, fried egg, chicken, 
or fish, A pair of chopsticks is furnished and a napkin with 
each box, and your Japanese friends will reward you with a 
surprised smile if you can pick up the food cleverly with the 
chopsticks. A pot of tea costing a few sen (i or 2 cents) 
completes the meal. 

On the way to Nagano we passed through the home village 
of Joseph Neejima, referred to in the previous chapter. As a 
boy, Joseph had found a bit of the New Testament, made his 
way to a port, and persuaded a Christian captain, Joseph 
Hardy, of Massachusetts, to take him to America, where he 
could learn more of the Christian Bible and secure an educa- 
tion. We saw on the way the roof of the temple in which 
Neejima preached when he returned to Japan. 

We passed Karizawa, the summer home in the mountains 
where hundreds of missionaries and other foreigners spend 
their vacations. During all the morning we were in sight of 
an active volcano. In the disturbances in Japan in January, 
1914, this volcano was in eruption with others. 

Arrived at Nagano, the station boys are at your window. 
Through the window you pass your baggage. For a few sen 
a package you can have the baggage finely handled. 

A children's meeting was awaiting the party at the little 



84 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Methodist Church, and the children were made happy by 
Miss Brown's flags and stories. Brought up on the hero 
stories of Japan, the story has a great charm in Japan. 
Around their cities you will find story houses where men and 
women sip their tea and listen to the professional tellers of 
Japanese legends. 

At the close of the meeting the party was taken to a very 
famous temple, for this is a strong Buddhist centre. There 
are thirteen acres in the temple grounds. These grounds are 
frequently used as playgrounds for the children. 

From there we go to a great hall where city functions are 
held, and are given a most formal reception and banquet by 
the Chamber of Commerce. 

Standing on the porch of this hall, seventeen villages were 
counted in the valley before us, and the inhabitants number 
many thousands. From the hill on the other side of the hall 
thirty villages may be counted. Five American and two 
English missionaries are doing the work in this place and 
vicinity. 

At the evening meeting there were many more non- Chris- 
tians than Christians, and there were some present who did 
not know what the Bible was. 

From the close of the meeting until midnight there was a 
delightful hour of fellowship with the missionaries, and then 
at midnight the train was taken to speed the party from this 
beauty spot of nature to the city of Kyoto. 



CHAPTER DC 
FROM TOKYO TO NAGOYA 




AT THE HOTEL SHIDZUOKA 
A STREET MISSION SUNDAY SCHOOL 




WHERE HORSES ARE RARE 

'a CHARGE TO KEEP I HAVE 

BOY STREET MUSICIANS 



CHAPTER IX 

FROM TOKYO TO NAGOYA 

The main party, including Mr. Heinz, left Tokyo for 
southern points. At the station were some distinguished 
Japanese to see the party off. This follows the invariable 
custom of meeting friends on arrival and speeding the parting 
guest. It is a beautiful custom and involves a large outlay of 
time and the payment of the station fee to pass visitors to the 
train. When an official is thus met, uniformed soldiers stand 
rigidly to their posts, the bows and salutes are very cere- 
monious, and an order of precedence prescribed by custom is 
closely followed as the party moves away from or to the 
station. Sometimes these receptions and farewells attain 
huge proportions in case of scholars and generals, high officials, 
and of course members of the royal family. 

In the case of our group, this fine spirit of courtesy was 
extended at every place visited, and we had frequent oc- 
casion to draw comparisons entirely favorable to Japan be- 
tween the two nations in the expression of respect and honor. 
And with this expression of interest in the guest there is 
always an apology for the poorness and inferiority and in- 
adequacy of the welcome, the home, the meals, and them- 
selves, when no expense has been spared and no sacrifice 
thought too great to entertain the visitors. 

So exacting is this spirit of hospitality that people, poor 
people often, will impoverish themselves in entertainment 

87 



88 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

so that they will not fail in the last detail of attention. A 
missionary said that he would often not advise Japanese 
friends of his expected coming, so that they would not go to 
expense that they could ill afiord. 

The beautiful thing about it all is that all this lavish ex- 
penditure will be made, and the minutest details thought out, 
without the guests realizing all that it has involved. The 
Japanese hide their pain and suffering and sacrifice, make 
light of their sharpest sorrows, so that offence and pain to 
others may not be given. And little touches of their life 
have a meaning that may be known only by the initiated. 
And if you offend, as is possible as a blundering American, in 
appreciating this, or offend in some open way, because we 
have not been trained to as fine sensitiveness in social matters, 
by no word or look on the part of your hosts will one ever 
know that a wound has been made. You may go away under 
the impression that you have honored your hosts and per- 
formed every social obligation, when the gaps have been many 
from the standpoint of an etiquette that is the product of 
centuries of cultivation. So let us take a seat as scholars 
and learn some things from our skilled Japanese teachers. 

From Tokyo the main line runs southward to Shidzuoka. 
Our Japanese interpreter and friend, Rev. T. Ukai, chair- 
man of the Board of Directors of the Japanese Sunday School 
Association, whose beautiful spirit drew to him our whole 
party, explained the points of interest on the journey. Pros- 
perous looking vallej's and villages are passed. We swing 
out into the open and suddenly there is a cr}- "Fujiyama!" 
and Japan's greatest mountain bursts on our \-iew. For 
an hour we circle part of this wonderful cone, the first art 
production of every schoolboy, and expressed in m>Tiads of 
art forms. 



FROM TOKYO TO NAGOYA 89 

The clouds had compassed the mountaintop when we first 
saw it, obscuring a clear view, but in about half an hour we 
came to an angle where all but a trifle of the top could be seen, 
and we saw the crown of white piercing the blue, the mountain- 
sides sloping gracefully to the plain. The exclamations of 
delight were many. Not the least pleased were the Japanese 
travelers on the car who were happy to see their sacred moun- 
tain so enthusiastically admired by the Americans. 

This mountain is worth of itself a visit to Japan, and when 
to this must be added the Inland Sea, and the Switzerland 
views which are common to many parts of the empire, there is 
never a traveler with any sense of appreciation but that desires 
to make a second trip to this Wonderland of the Orient. 

Shidzuoka is in the midst of the great tea-producing terri- 
tory of Japan. More than thirty million pounds of tea are 
shipped from this port alone, being three fourths of all the tea 
sent from Japan. The country for miles around is planted 
to tea bushes, which are about two feet high. From these 
bushes they get a first, second, third, and fourth picking, 
the first picking being of buds which are considered very 
choice, and for which wealthy Japanese pay as high as $10 
a pound. These buds are used often for ceremonial tea. 
During the season a vast company of employees are engaged 
in this tea picking. 

At the train at Shidzuoka the Mayor of the city, members 
of the Chamber of Commerce, and other officials met the 
party and conducted the guests to the hotel, where a luncheon 
was served, including some of the splendid fish for which Japan 
is justly noted and of which we never tire. 

After luncheon we were taken in rickishas to the Industrial 
Building, where the wares of the city, which is a large manu- 
facturing point, were attractively exhibited. Lacquerwork 



90 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

is a specially fine product here. Baskets of luscious oranges 
were presented to the ladies by the Shidzuoka Orange Growers 
Association, and tea and cakes were served through the 
courtesy of the Chamber of Commerce. In the afternoon a 
mass meeting was addressed on Sunday School topics. 

Sangan Hill, from which a magnificent landscape is observed 
and which commands a fine view of Fujiyama, was our next 
objective. A tea house at the summit gave opportunity 
for rest and refreshment after the long climb. Returning, 
we were conducted to an old temple with some unusually fine 
carvings of birds in the ornamentation. Here we were ad- 
mitted to the gate of the inner shrine, an honor rarely ac- 
corded. The bell tolled for evening prayer while we were 
there, and we stood in the quiet of the temple enclosure with a 
prayer that the heart of God might be revealed to these His 
children who were groping after something, they knew not 
what, ignorant but sincere worshippers. 

The evening banquet at the City Club was a gorgeous 
affair. Japanese ladies, the wives of distinguished city and 
other officials, acted as a reception committee. At the ban- 
quet a box of Shidzuoka's famous tea was presented to each 
member of the party. A picture of the party group, as 
it had been taken on our arrival at luncheon, was at each 
place as a testimony of the enterprise and courtesy of 
our hosts. The addresses of welcome were clothed in choice 
language. 

Following the banquet, an evening entertainment was 
given in an adjoining room. Missionaries and Sunday School 
pupils were invited as a special treat. Feats of jugglery, with 
knives and torches, by a remarkable family of entertainers, 
kept the interest on edge. Several beautifully dressed Jap- 
anese girls showed in pantomime the sowing and winnow- 




WAITING FOR THE CROWN PRINCE, NAGOYA 

LAUNDRY WAGON 

PROCESSION HONGWANJI TEMPLE, KYOTO 




methodist protestant kindergarten, nagoya 
attention! 



FROM TOKYO TO NAGOYA 91 

ing of rice. The playing of the goto and bewa made a 
thorough Japanese evening of it. 

The next morning these good people of Shidzuoka came 
with us to the train, as is their custom. And the baskets of 
oranges furnished refreshment and a sweet memory of this 
place, which deserves from every tourist a visit on the way 
to the South. 

Nagoya, the next stop on the way to Osaka, has many 
claims for the special attention of travelers. It is Japan's 
fourth city as to size and general importance. 

Our visit timed with that of the Crown Prince. The streets 
were filled with happy throngs. The parade of the splendidly 
disciplined students of the schools was taking place. The 
exhibit of this marching host would have done credit to any 
nation, the boys with soldier caps, the girls with red or purple 
skirts worn over their kimonos. 

After luncheon the Industrial Building was visited. From 
the rear of the building a winding path led among shading 
pines to a quaint Japanese cottage of great age. The paper 
screen door was open and a group of Japanese artists was 
discovered, painting birds and pines, lakes and mountains. 
With marvelous skill some sketches were made while we 
waited, and presented to us as souvenirs. 

Nagoya is famous for its ancient castle with walls of enor- 
mous stones, moss covered in spots. Surroimding the castle 
is a wide moat. A white tower, many stories high, rose above 
the walls. During the feudal wars this tower withstood the 
attacking party for some time. Boiling oil was poured upon 
the assaulting party from openings above the gate. The 
rooms of the palace have as frescoes Japanese pines, cherry 
trees, and birds, and scenes from the old life of Japan. Panels 
of carved birds and fruits decorate the rooms. One of the 



92 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

floors is a musical one, called the nightingale floor, giving out 
a birdlike note to the tread. It is said this was to give warn- 
ing of the coming of unwelcome visitors. 

At Nagoya can be seen an American innovation in the form 
of a great department store. The proprietor is called the 
''John Wanamaker of Japan." He was one of the Japanese 
Commercial Commission, and in his ofiice is a picture of this 
commission as it was taken in Mr. Heinz's business establish- 
ment in Pittsburgh, and afterward presented by Mr. Heinz 
to each member of the commission. The reception accorded 
Mr. Heinz and the members of the party in this great store 
was therefore one of imusual interest to all. The Mayor 
and members of the Chamber of Commerce were part of the 
reception party. Tea and cake were served, and the treas- 
vires of this four-story establishment, with a rotunda clear 
to the roof, were shown. The doUs, for which this city is 
renowned, were of special interest to the ladies. 

In the afternoon the pastors and Sunday School workers 
met in a mass meeting. Mrs. Kinnear's story of the Cradle 
Roll movement in America excited large curiosity, and Mr. 
Landes told of the growth of the teacher training plans. 

In the later afternoon the party visited the famous pottery 
works, and saw the process from the crushing of the stone to 
the decoration of the china. Purchases of the ware were hard 
to resist. The courtesy of the officers of the company was 
constant. 

But the Crown Prince was leaving shortly, and so the visi- 
tors hurried to a place in the lines near the railroad station 
at an angle where a full view of the Crown Prince and his 
party could be obtained. The dense crowds were lined on 
either side of the streets, and in perfect order and absolute 
good nature. A courier announced the coming of the young 



FROM TOKYO TO NAGOYA 93 

Prince. Heads were bared, and in perfect silence the people 
stood while the jinrikisha of the Prince passed by. The posi- 
tion and the presence of so large a group of Americans at- 
tracted the Prince, who looked intently at the party, which 
joined heartily in the expression of loyal interest in this repre- 
sentative of a great house and a great empire. 

Shortly after the train of the Prince pulled out the party 
left Nagoya for the temple city of Kyoto, and thence to 
Osaka. 



CHAPTER X 
OSAKA, THE PITTSBURGH OF J-\PAN 



CHAPTER X 

OSAKA, THE PITTSBURGH OF JAPAN 

The fact that the Seventh Annual Convention of the 
National Sunday School Association of Japan was to be held 
at Osaka made this city a goal of special interest to the tour 
party. But Osaka had other just claims for attention. 
Situated on an arm of the sea, ships ply its waters, and its 
many canals threading the city are alive with burden-bearing 
vessels. By many, Osaka is called the "Venice of Japan." 
Many bridges cross these canals. The streets are filled with 
heavy-laden wagons pulled and pushed by humans, for the 
horse is little in evidence. Jinrikishas are spinning along, 
the men shouting "Hi!" to clear the way. 

And then Osaka, with its 1,300,000 of population, is 
Japan's second city. Its great dailies have an enormous 
circulation. At the railroad station the reporters of these 
Yankee-spirited papers met us and secured snapshots of Mr. 
Heinz and the party. The editor of their largest paper, a man 
of brilliant parts, interpreted for the Governor of the Ken at 
the banquet tendered the party by the officials and leaders of 
the city. 

One of the most famous of Japan's castles is at Osaka. In 
the walls are enormous stones. A deep moat surrounds these 
walls. Within the walls there is room for an army of soldiers 
and retainers, who were perfectly secure in their fastness. 

A great bronze bell is another of the attractions, the next in 

97 



98 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

size to the great bell at Moscow. As you stand within the 
bell you will note the names of the officers and men who died 
in the Japanese-Russian war engraved around the bell. And 
the fine courtesy of the Japanese people is shown in the fact 
that the names of Russian officers who fell in battle are also 
engraved there alongside of their own heroes. The brave men 
of both armies are equally honored by the nation. 

The reception tendered the American party by the pro- 
vincial and city officials, pastors, Sunday School workers, and 
missionaries was a notable affair. The address by Dr. 
Miyagawa, on behalf of the Christian community, was a re- 
markably strong appeal for religious education from childhood 
up. The party sang their song, "On to the Orient," and this 
with the Sunday School "Banzai" seemed greatly enjoyed by 
our hosts. 

The Seventh National Sunday School Convention at 
Osaka did credit to effective planning by Japanese leaders. 
There were Sunday School addresses and conferences for both 
missionaries and Japanese on vital subjects. The parade of 
the Sunday School children of Osaka and Kyoto was made 
picturesque by banners and by individual flags with the 
picture thereon of a Japanese and American flag and the 
Cross and Crown between. These flags in silk were later 
presented to each member of the party at the Young Men's 
Christian Association Hall where the schools assembled. 

The children marched to the convention hall in the rain, 
some of them traveling six miles. A souvenir of a picture of 
Christ blessing the Uttle children was presented to each of 
the children. 

In that assembly great enthusiasm was evoked by the 
vociferous singing by the children of "I'm so happy," led by 
the irrepressible Mr. Gorbold, who came down from Kyoto to 




japan's seventh national S. S. convention, OSAIL'l 
THE MEN AND WOMEN OF TO-MORROW 




REV. H. KOZAKI, D. D., PRESIDENT NATIONAL S. S. ASSOCIATION 

or JAPAN, AND FAMILY 

REV. K. MITO, SECRETARY S. S. WORK METHODIST CHURCH, 

AND FAMILY 



OSAKA, THE PITTSBURGH OF JAPAN 99 

take part. The dramatic recital of a hero story by one of the 
Japanese entertainers was in keeping with Japanese custom 
at children's festivals. xAfter the response by Mr. Heinz to 
the words of welcome, Madame Hiro Oka was called to the 
platform to make a brief address. Madame Hiro Oka is at 
the head of one of Japan's important banks. She is a member 
of Dr. Miyagawa's church at Osaka, is a forceful speaker, and 
has an impressive personality. 

In her address to the convention, she said that many 
in Japan are seeking to get a little from rehgion and a 
little from education, leaving out Christ. She said that she 
hoped this convention would tell Japan that Christ must be 
included in any plan of worthy life education. 

Mr. Heinz suggested that Madame Hiro Oka be named as 
one of the delegates from Japan to the World's Sunday School 
Convention at Zurich, and upon motion of Dr. Kozaki the 
convention took unanimous action upon this proposal. This 
is said to be the first time in the history of Japan when a 
woman has been elected a representative from Japan to a gath- 
ering of this sort. Dr. Kozaki and Dr. Ibuka were named as 
co-delegates to the Zurich convention with Madame Hiro 
Oka. Later it was found, to the regret of all, that the physi- 
cian was unable to give his consent to the going to Zurich of 
this distinguished Japanese lady. 

The convention lasted for three days. The closing meetings 
were distributed over twelve different churches, a member of 
the party and a Japanese being designated for each church. 

The convention voiced by unanimous action its call to the 
Zurich convention to hold the next World's Convention at 
Tokyo in 191 6. This action may be found to be one of the 
most important ever taken in its relation to the moulding of 
the future religious life of this nation. 



loo A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

In the special conferences at Osaka, held by Mr. Heinz with 
Japanese and missionary leaders, broad plans were laid look- 
ing to the thorough organization of the Sunday School work of 
Japan and the engagement of a specialist to promote the 
training of a Sunday School leadership in theological semi- 
naries, schools, and churches. This specialist later was ap- 
pointed in the person of Horace E. Coleman, with the hearty 
cooperation of the Japanese and missionaries. 

From Osaka the chairman and secretary of the commission 
returned to Tokyo for conference with Count Okuma, since 
appointed Premier, and with other important leaders, looking 
to the development of plans for the World's Sunday School 
Convention at Tokyo, and to arrange for the proper repre- 
sentation of Japan at the Zurich convention, so that the 
invitation might be strongly presented. Calls were made as 
well upon the Mayor and at the home of the good friend of the 
party. Baron Shibusawa. Mr. Heinz's tact and skill were in 
evidence in the unfolding of the plans. 

While at Tokyo a brief conference was had with Dr. John 
R. Mott, who was engaged in the last of the series of great 
conferences around the world in the interest of missions. 
These conferences were promoted by the Continuation Com- 
mittee of the Edinburgh Conference. In these conferences, 
participated in by native and missionary leaders, the Simday 
School note had been voiced so strongly and so insistently 
that Dr. Mott expressed himself as convinced that the time 
was ripe for a great Sunday School advance, and promised to 
help forward the plans looking to an extension of this im- 
portant interest. 

A few days later the chairman and secretary rejoined the 
party at Kobe. 



V. 



CHAPTER XI 
A TRIP TO SHIKOKU 



CHAPTER XI 

A TRIP TO SHIKOKU * 

This trip was begun immediately after the close of the 
convention at Osaka. The party, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. 
Hall, Dr. Wilbur, and Mr. B. Otsume, the interpreter, was 
made up partly in Kyoto and partly on the train down from 
Kyoto to Okayama. 

The Island of Shikoku is one of the secondary islands of 
the Empire of Japan. It, however, has a large population, 
and many cities of from 12,000 to 100,000 population. 

The tide of the tourists that has so largely touched Japan 
for the last ten years has turned aside from Shikoku, and this 
was the only party that had ever landed on the island, and 
this fact was kept to the front in all the addresses made by the 
islanders. It seemed to make the hearty welcome extended 
still more hearty. 

The island can be reached by crossing the Inland Sea of 
Japan. This sea is full of islands, and is one of the most 
beautiful sheets of water to be found in the world. This is 
due in part to what nature has done, and in part to what man 
has done, terracing and cultivating the islands to the utmost. 
Almost spontaneously a comparison was made with the scen- 
ery of the Thousand Islands, and unanimously the palm given 
to the Inland Sea. The islands are larger and the distances 
between t hem greater. 

♦Written by Dr. Wilbur. 



I04 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

The party left the train at Okayama. A short trip by rail 
brought them to Onomichi, where a ferryboat awaited theif 
crossing to Takamatsu. This is a town of icx5,ooo people, 
and the missions here are imder the Southern Presbyterian 
Board. A hearty welcome was extended by Mr. Hassell, of 
that board, and by all the ofl5cials of the town and of the 
Chamber of Commerce. A short address was made by the 
Mayor and responded to by the party. A beautiful basket 
of flowers was presented to Mrs. Hall. The party was enter- 
tained by Mr. Hassell. 

The great pride of Takamatsu is its beautiful park, and 
it is indeed beautiful. Few, if any cities in the world of its 
size, can boast of one for which nature and art has done more. 
At the rest room of this park the party was formally received 
by the Governor of the province, the Mayor of the city, the 
chairman of the Chamber of Cormnerce, and many other 
dignitaries. The Governor was a graduate of Yale Univer- 
sity, and as he could speak English, he made the chief ad- 
dress. Others addressed the party through the interpreter. 
Responses were made by Mr. HaU and Dr. Wilbur. 

The camera was produced, and a beautiful picture taken of 
the party. A walk through the park, with an explanation of 
its peculiar features and beauties, concluded the afternoon. 
In the evening a mass meeting was held in the Mission Church 
in which the message of the party — "The necessity of 
Christian Education and the Sabbath School as the means 
thereto" — was delivered with great frankness, as it had been 
in the afternoon, and it was received with the same cor- 
diaHty. 

The boat not departing until 2:30 a. m., the party slept, as 
best it could, in a Japanese hotel, and took the boat at that 
hour. 




SUNDAY SCHOOL R.A.LLY, PALACE HILL, MATSUYAiLA, SHIKOKU 
PARK IN TAK.\MATSU, SHIKOKf 




A JAPANESE TORII, KOBE 

AT BEAUTIFUL MIYAJIMA 

TEMPLE INTERIOR 



A TRIP TO SHIKOKU 105 

A ride of nine hours brought the party to Takahama, the 
port of Matsuyama, where they were met by Mr. Worley, 
of the Presbyterian Board, and his evangehst. A half hour 
by rail brought them to Matsuyama. This is no mean city, 
though not so large as Takamatsu. It does not appear on 
the map, in many instances, because it is inland a little dis- 
tance, and because Dogo natural mineral springs are near 
and have taken the place on the railroad maps, as most of 
the travel is to that place. 

Most of the great denominational boards are here repre- 
sented by mission stations and native pastors, and a large 
number of missionaries here met the party. Mr. Worley 
had the party in his charge, and was indefatigable in his care 
for them, showing them every possible courtesy during the 
whole visit. In this he was cordially joined by all the other 
missionaries. 

The day was Sunday. The first meeting was a Sunday 
School rally held on the top of the beautiful Palace hill, 500 
feet high, just back of the town. Here, under the shadow of 
their old feudal castle that crowned the top, 500 children met 
the new and the old in close contrast. After singing by the 
children a lad of twelve gave an address of welcome in splendid 
style referring to the time when Commodore Perry opened 
Japan to the world as the beginning of their civilization, an 
event for which they were thankful. A pretty Httle lass pre- 
sented a basket of flowers to Mrs. Hall. In the evening a 
meeting in the interest of Sunday School work was held, at 
which teacher training and adult work were presented to a 
large audience in the Presbyterian Church. 

On Monday the party found itself in the midst of the cherry 
blossoms, for which Japan is so famous, and enjoyed them to 
the full. In the afternoon a reception and banquet were 



ro6 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

given the visitors by the Chamber of Commerce, all the leading 
officials being present. A general mass meeting in the City- 
Hall concluded a full day. At this, the distinctive message of 
the party was delivered to the prominent people of the town. 

Tuesday morning, April 8th, 8:15, witnessed the departure 
of the party for Imabari. At twelve o'clock landing was 
made by lighter, and a hurried dressing at a Japanese hotel 
brought the \'isitors to the first meeting at one o'clock, a ban- 
quet by the business men. Here the same message was pre- 
sented. At 4 p. M. a Sunday School rally was held in the 
Congregational Church, and 450 children presented a most 
remarkable program for the final educational meeting. 

This is a town of 12,000 people, but with no missionary" or 
foreign worker. The religious work is in the hands of a 
most cultured and efficient pastor, Mr. Tsuyumu by name. 
The visit of the party showed the strong grip this pastor and 
people have on the whole town. 

Upon the departure of the \-isitors, Wednesday morning, 
the government officials, the pastor and elders of the church, 
and a vast multitude accompanied them to the wharf. One 
surprise after another was sprung. First, a band began to 
pla}' as the part}- took the lighter, then rockets shot the 
Japanese and the United States flags into the air, where they 
floated gracefully; then came farewells and wa\'ings of hand- 
kerchiefs. 

The whole visit seemed to be productive of much good. The 
missionan,- said the \-isit enabled him to meet people he had 
tried in vain to reach for four years. Some days later the fol- 
lowing was received from Yoshitaro Abe, Mayor of Imabari: 



"It was a great blessmg that you came to our to\ni; all our 
officers have decided to attend the Men's Sundav School." 



CHAPTER XII 
FROM KOBE TO SHIMONOSEKI 



CHAPTER XII 

FROM KOBE TO SHIMONOSEKI 

From Osaka to Kobe is but an hour's journey by rail. The 
port of Kobe is one of the most important in Japan. The 
harbor is usually filled with great ships. The approach to 
Kobe by steamer is always interesting. The waters of the 
eastern coast of Japan are filled with fish, which find in the 
Inland Sea a natural breeding spot. Fishing smacks crowd 
these waters, and, viewed from the deck of an incoming 
steamer, these fishing boats, with sails all set in the same di- 
rection, resemble a great flock of white birds. 

The high hills, on the slopes of which the city is built, are 
very picturesque with groves and temples, and high upon the 
side of one of the hills these horticultural artists have grown 
an enormous anchor of green, which can be plainly seen from 
incoming steamers. 

The inhabitants of Kobe and visitors to this port chmb 
the hundreds of winding stone steps to the temple and pleas- 
ure resorts on the hills back of Kobe, from which at sunset 
a wonderful view is obtained of city and harbor and shipping. 

Kobe is renowned, too, for its climate, hotels, and shopping 
opportunities. Many foreign firms make this city their 
headquarters, and foreigners are seen continually about the 
streets. Some splendid educational work is carried on. This 
is one of the foremost centres of what is known in America 
as the Congregational Church, and here known as the "Ku- 

109 



no A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

miai." The Girls' High School in connection with this mis- 
sion is one of the finest in Japan. The singing of these girls 
is noted for its fine quality. 

The Southern Methodist Church has at Kobe the celebrated 
Kwansai Gakuin, of which the honored and venerable Dr. 
Newton has been the directing force for many years. 

This college and theological seminary, through lectures 
and correspondence courses, has specialized on Sunday School 
work for some time. Its special Sunday School library is 
probably the best in Japan. Through the offer of Dr. H. M. 
Hamill, of Nashville, Tenn., who, with Mrs. Hamill, visited 
Japan and Korea some six years ago, bringing the inspiration 
of their great skill to the Sunday School workers of the em- 
pire, a model Sunday School training building is in prospect 
in connection with the college, and Mr. Heinz has offered to 
supplement the offer of Dr. Hamill and make possible for this 
busy centre a school that should adequately train a Sunday 
School leadership. 

The welcome of the party to Kobe was an enthusiastic one. 
Owing to the necessary absence of Mr. Heinz at Tokyo, and 
of other members of the party who were in other tour groups, 
a reception by the officials and Chamber of Commerce was 
not planned for here, but these officials contributed liberally 
toward the Sunday School Association, and a member of the 
Chamber of Commerce, Mr. Murumatsu, a leading merchant, 
a superintendent of one of the best organized Sunday Schools 
of Japan, and an enthusiastic worker, acted as chairman of 
arrangements. 

The conversion of Mr. Murumatsu is of interest. He was 
visiting New York for the first time, and, out of curiosity, 
attended a city church. He went out unwelcomed, and won- 
dered if that was the true spirit of Christianity. He deter- 




«i^ 



PRESENTING KOBE'S WELCOME 
PRESBYTERIAN SUNDAY SCHOOL, OSAKA 




MISS KIJO NIWA, A SUNDAY SCHOOL TEACHER 

CHILDREN OF MR. K. MURAMATSU, KOBE 

AT THE TOR HOTEL, KOBE 



FROM KOBE TO SHIMONOSEKI iii 

mined to make another test. At the church door the follow- 
ing Sunday was one of the Young Men's Christian Association 
secretaries, who warmly greeted him and invited him to a 
nearby Y. M. C. A. Meanwhile this secretary sent word 
ahead to the assistant secretary to give this Japanese friend a 
special welcome. From that resulted his conversion, and he 
is one of the staimch supporters of the Y. M. C. A. at Kobe. 

Three great meetings were held at Kobe. The Sunday 
School leaders estimated an attendance of 2,500 at each 
meeting. The Y. M. C. A. hall was filled to overflowing. 
Rev. K. Mito, the skilled secretary of the Sunday School work 
of the Japan Methodist Church, gave a cordial welcome to the 
party. 

The program rendered by the local Sunday Schools was of 
a high order, and reflected great credit upon the workers. 
Fifty Sunday School classes were represented, all with ban- 
ners. Thirty-five banners, representing the number of schools 
present, were given to the party to be used in the decorations 
at the Zurich convention. 

The address of welcome, given in English by one of the 
boys, was greatly enjoyed by the visitors, and in its enthusi- 
asm and courtesy deserves a place in these annals: 

"On behalf of the Sunday School children of Kobe, I desire 
to give a few words of welcome to the World's Sunday School 
Commission Party. 

"You have had a very long voyage over the ocean, and 
perhaps you are tired from the journey, but under the care 
of God you are all here safe and sound. Indeed, God is love, 
and happy are his followers. 

"I can hardly express our hearty thanks for your coming 
to Japan to see us and giving us this pleasure by attending 
our 'Welcome Meeting.' We know that the ocean is big and 
great, but your love to us is greater and deeper than the ocean 



112 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

you crossed. How can we return your kindness and love? 
We are young now. When we are grown to manhood and 
womanhood we shall all be strong soldiers and fight bravely 
for the love and justice of God, and try to establish the ' King- 
dom of God' on earth. This is the only way we can do it. 

"I am sorry to say that to-day we have no way of entertain- 
ing you, but make yourselves at home and be good enough to 
accept our heartiest welcome." 



Leaving Kobe, April 5 th, one of the groups stopped off for 
over Sunday at Himeji, a city of over 50,000 people. Mr. and 
Mrs. Briggs, Baptist missionaries, who met the party at the 
station, are the only missionaries at this important point, 
and supervise a territory' of 500,000 people. Still some people 
think there is no need of more missionaries in Japan, 

Upon arrival the party was conducted to the home of Mr. 
Briggs, where in the evening a ver}^ formal reception was 
given by the Japanese Christians. The guests were asked to 
sit on cushions on the rice mats while being entertained with 
the native music, and then Avere served with ceremonial tea. 
Three hours in this cross-legged, backless posture on a stretch, 
or without a stretch, is no small stunt for a novitiate. It is 
only matched by the patient courtesy of the Japanese people 
through a three-hours' meeting in listening to the long speeches 
of Americans, which may have missed the mark because of the 
failure of the speaker or interpreter, but by no change of 
feature on the part of one in the audience is this failure knowTi. 
To leave the room when a visitor is speaking would be the 
highest discourtesy. 

Mr. Landes and Miss Brown spoke here in response to the 
cordial address of welcome. 

Sunday afternoon a splendid rally was held in the park of 
the old castle. This castle dates back to the feudal days of 



FROM KOBE TO SHIMONOSEKI 113 

Japan and was once a part of the dai-myos estate. One 
Sunday School came ten miles to participate in this rally. 

The evening meeting was impressive. It was held in the 
audience room of the public school building. Some 700 peo- 
ple were present, and Mr. Briggs said that not more than 
forty of them were Christians. The Mayor, members of the 
City Council, and the principal of the public school, were in 
attendance and Hstened attentively to the addresses by Mr. 
Kinnear and Miss BrowTi. 

The railroad journey southward skirts the beautiful Japan 
Inland Sea. A trip on the Inland Sea is, of itself, worth a 
\'isit to Japan. Innumerable islands dot this sea; many of 
them are inhabited and cultivated to the tops of the hills. 
The people are largely fishermen, and their boats, white- 
sailed, dot the water like great sea-gulls. By moonlight 
from the steamer deck this journey is a dream of beauty. 

From the train glimpses of this wonderful sea are seen 
through the pines which fringe the shore, and the whole 
journey becomes a kaleidoscope of nature. The sweep of the 
train around these shore curv^es is all the more beautiful in 
the views of the splendidly built stone bulwarks which pro- 
ject against the encroachment of the sea, and one becomes 
more of an optimist in looking at the faces of the happy fisher- 
folk in the villages that dot the shore. 

Okayama is reached just in time for lunch on Monday. 
WTio can ever forget a \dsit there, including the wonderful 
garden with its storks and shrubbery, coimted one of Japan's 
three great beauty spots? The welcome of Dr. and Mrs. 
Pettee, the veteran missionaries of the Congregational Board, 
and of Miss Adams and Miss Wainwright, of the same board, 
had that sort of New England home touch that goes to the 
spot when ten thousand miles from home. 



114 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

At Okayama Miss Adams and Miss Wainwright have de- 
veloped a slum work of such high value that the Japanese 
have come in as glad and voluntary subscribers. A school 
for the poor children and a dispensary have done much to 
transform conditions in a needy part of the city. Miss 
Adams shows picture postcards of these poor children grouped 
in a bath tub as a first step to "godliness." 

On Sunday, at Okayama, Mr. and Mrs. Landes participated 
in a large Sunday School rally; attendance i,8oo. A workers' 
conference in the afternoon brought 200 earnest workers 
together. The leader of the Sunday School work of this 
city and ken is Mr. Otogoro Komoto, an official of the ken — 
a Sunday School superintendent, a splendid type of a pro- 
gressive Japanese, who is anxious for the best things in re- 
ligious education for the Sunday School. 

The Mayor and city officials were present at an evening 
gathering of 500, and gave welcome addresses. 

Kure, a city of 100,000, was next visited. The government 
navy yards are located there. One missionary family only is 
stationed in this entire city. A good meeting, with 200 in 
attendance, was addressed by Mr. Landes. 

Hiroshima is the last stop but one on the run to Shimonoseki 
from which point steamer is taken to Korea. The "Lady 
of the Decoration" wrote her story from the kindergarten 
school of Hiroshima, which is a part of the splendid educational 
work for girls conducted here by the Southern Methodist 
Church. This kindergarten has been developed largely by a 
skilled worker. Miss Marguerite Cook, sister of Mr. Edward 
F. Cook, of the Foreign Missionary Board of the Southern 
Methodist Church. The writer met Miss Cook in Japan seven 
years ago. She produced the first series of Beginners Sun- 
day School lessons for Japan, illustrated from Japanese life in 



FROM KOBE TO SHIMONOSEKI 115 

part, and fashioned as to material largely after the lessons 
in use in America. This course became part of a graded series 
covering eleven years. 

Miss Cook and Miss Howe, of Kobe, have done much to 
introduce and popularize kindergarten instruction and meth- 
ods in Japan. The kindergarten building at Hiroshima, 
erected by funds from the Georgia Epworth Leagues, would 
do credit to any institution in America. 

Hiroshima has a magnificent parade ground, where the 
Japanese are put through their practice work before transfer 
to service. It was a busy spot during the Japan-Russian 
war. 

The dai-myos garden, hard by the Methodist Girls' School, 
is possibly the most beautiful privately constructed garden of 
this sort in Japan. It has been presented to the city. In 
the heart of this garden is a lake, the arms of the lake crossed 
by quaint bridges. Rarely are these crossings on straight 
lines. Often they are curved bridges or planks laid on stones 
irregularly placed. Storks, quaint Japanese houses, wisteria 
arbors, shaded winding walks under pines, flaming bushes, with 
here and there a glimpse of the winding river and city bridge, 
and protecting mountains clad in their spring green, make a 
memory of rare beauty. 

When seven years ago the first Sunday School visitation of 
Japan was made, a series of meetings was held at Hiroshima. 
Sixty of the girls of the Methodist School, many of these girls 
coming from strongly Buddhist homes, when they heard the 
call to Sunday School service, gave their hearts to Christ and 
dedicated themselves to this work. They went out by twos, 
teaching the Sunday School lesson in some twenty mission 
schools about Hiroshima, these mission schools being held in 
homes rented for Sunday for Sunday School purposes. And 



ii6 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

these girls gave this as their reason for this step: "Where 
so much that is grand and noble is being done in the world, 
must we not have some part? " 

To one of these little Mission Sunday Schools at Hiroshima 
a little girl came one day. Her father was a Buddhist and a 
brewer. The little girl later went to the Girls' School. When 
Scripture texts were recited, she would afterward, by instruc- 
tion of her parents, wash out her mouth with water, to cleanse 
out these texts. When she prepared to go to Tokyo, later, 
to complete her education, she found a Bible and hymn book 
placed in her satchel by the teachers of the school. At first 
she was tempted to leave them behind; she finally kept them 
as a memento of her school days. But the influence of the 
school followed her. She became a Christian, and was dis- 
inherited by her father. When she came to a decision as to 
her life work, she chose to become the matron of a great 
factory at Osaka, with 2,500 girls under her care; she associ- 
ated with her Christian assistants, and is devoting her life 
to the task of atmosphering with Christian influences that 
great company of operatives. 

During the party's visit at Hiroshima three meetings were 
held, all largely attended, addressed by Mr. Harrison, Mr. 
Kinnear, Miss Brown, and Miss Snell. Exhibitions of local 
Sunday School work were given under direction of Dr. He^re- 
f ord, of the Presbyterian School, and others. 

A great men's gathering was addressed by Mr. Kinnear 
on purity as a life and national asset. A banquet, attended 
by 200 business men, was arranged by the Chamber of Com- 
merce in one of the beautiful restaurants so common to Japan. 
It was an elaborate affair and did not conclude until after 
midnight. The president of the Chamber gave a splendid 
welcome address, suitably responded to by the men of the 





JAPANESE workers' CONFERENCE, OKAYAMA 
SUNDAY SCHOOL MASS MEETING, HIROSHIMA 




rTlnr 




boys' club, okayama 
okayama rally 



FROM KOBE TO SHIMONOSEKI 117 

party. The fact that the visitors did not drink their toasts 
in wine made a profound impression upon those present. One 
of the prominent Japanese present was so impressed that he 
has readjusted his life and now regularly attends the church. 

No visitor to Hiroshima should fail to make the short run 
to Miyajima to see a bit of nature's choicest handiwork. It 
is really a wild glen opening out upon the water. A great torii 
— a gate made of two uprights imited at the top by a curved 
piece — stands out in the water. Nearby is a temple. Pleas- 
ure buildings are about, and little cottages cling to the steep 
sides of the glen overlooking a leaping stream crossed by odd 
bridges. 

Shimonoseki, on the straits of the same name, is interesting. 
Here the entire party, coming from their group work, con- 
centrated for the trip to Korea, or "Chosen," as it is now 
called by Japan. Across the straits is the great mountainous 
Island of Kyushu, where we are to be for a wonderful week fol- 
lowing the Korean trip. 

The stay at Shimonoseki was too brief for special meetings, 
but there was a little opportunity to meet the good people 
here, and the welcome was a continuation of that same hearty 
expression of good-will which had met the party at every step 
of its journey. The railroad officials vied with each other in 
promoting the comfort of the visitors by special care and 
courteous attendants, the railroad officials themselves con- 
ducting the party at times. 

From April nth to 24th we are to be in Chosen, "the land 
of the morning calm." We had traversed the main island of 
Nippon from Hakodate on the extreme north to Shimonoseki 
on the south, and from Shikoku farthest east to Kanazawa 
on the western coast. 



CHAPTER Xin 
THE NEW KOREA 



CHAPTER XIII 

THE NEW KOREA 

Wise travellers take the journey from Shimonoseki, Japan, 
to Fusan, Korea, at night. "There's a reason" that goes as 
deep as the centre of your digestive system. The large, 
commodious steamers put at service by the enterprising 
Japanese companies to care for the increasing Korean trade 
are reducing perceptibly the discomforts of the day journey, 
but if there is a possibiHty of choice, start at night. 

As you leave the Shimonoseki harbor you note the port of 
Moji, with columns of smoke coming from the many chim- 
neys of its manufacturing enterprises. For an hour or more 
you are in the straits, the shores on either side charming the 
eye wdth headlands and cottages, shrines and pleasure re- 
sorts. The strait broadens, islands spring up as if by magic 
between you and the receding shore line, the slant of the 
sinking sun brings all into a setting of gold, the fleck of a 
distant sail catches the same golden touch, and heaven seems 
a bit nearer than usual. 

During the night we pass over that part of the Sea of Japan 
made famous by the crushing of the Russian fleet. On one 
of the islands not far distant one of the Russian ironclads 
was beached after an attempt at flight. 

The next day we strain our eyes for the first glimpse of 
Korea, and make out the bare cliffs on either side of Fusan 
Harbor. As we enter the harbor we note at the right the 



122 



A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 



leper colony, where many of the lepers in Korea are segre- 
gated. 

Fusan presents a vastly different appearance from the 
first visit of the writer seven years ago. The city stretches 
along a narrow shore and then climbs a rather steep hill. 
Before the advent of the Japanese, a rock hill at the centre 
of the city was a serious hindrance to travel and growth. 
The Japanese have dynamited this hill, using the stone in 




the extension of the city out into the harbor, and a valuable 
addition is thus made to the city area. On this extension 
splendid terminal facilities to the Korean Railway have been 
constructed and pubhc buildings and warehouses and business 
blocks built. The Japanese spirit and Hfe are in constant 
evidence. The Koreans have been given large employment 
in the construction work, and have also been taught valuable 
lessons in enterprise and system. 



THE NEW KOREA 123 

This reconstruction of the city of Fusan is but an example 
of what is going on all through Korea since the Japanese 
occupation, in government works of public utility and edu- 
cation. If with this had gone a constructive religious energy 
to provide moral as well as material foundations for the new 
Korea, the results would be impressive. But this is where the 
Christian church and Sunday School have their opportunity 
of service under the new government. 

The adjustment of a nation to a new order of government 
is never an easy task, and the task has been rendered more 
difficult in Korea through the exploitation of the Koreans by 
the early promoters from Japan, and by the action of some 
military subordinates whose exercise of authority occasioned 
natural opposition and hatred. 

Gradually the broad purposes and ideals of the Japanese 
are becoming known to the Korean people, and with the 
softening of the first revulsion of feeling there is an accom- 
modation to the new plans, and a larger contentment. With 
the acceptance of the new government has come a purpose, 
through education and religious experience, to gain that new 
freedom of mind and spirit which gives individual strength 
and character and true enjoyment of life. 

Japan is pouring millions of mone}^ into the physical and 
educational improvement of Korea, and the outlook is that 
in a few years Korea will rank with Japan in solidity and at- 
tractiveness. The natural physical beauty of Korea as a 
country of broad valleys and extensive mountains and rich 
plains has been seen at disadvantage. The mountain slopes 
have been bared of their forest life by the improvidence of the 
people, until in many places underbrush has been substituted 
for wood fuel. Now Japan is replanting these mountain 
slopes with millions of young pines and other trees. Methods 



124 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

of gardening are being taught, and the whole industrial life 
of the people is being improved. Broad highways are being 
thrown up from the valleys, magnificent as to width, height, 
and soHdity of construction. The railroad stations are 
adorned with cherry and plum trees. The railroad rolling 
stock matches that of our best roads in America, and the 
attention of railroad officials and clerks is extreme in its 
thoughtfulness. 

The old system of graft which made every Korean who had 
any resources the prey of the Korean officials has been done 
away with, and the civil government of Japan is seeking to 
administer justice fairly. A system of property registration 
has been adopted all through Korea. The quahty of the 
government officers is high. Judge Watanabe of the Korean 
Court of Appeals is an eminent Christian layman, and was 
the first president of the Sunday School Association of 
Japan. 

The Japanese primary schools are gradually replacing the 
Christian day schools, which have been the only opportunity 
of primary education in Korea. These schools were natural 
Sunday School centres, and this makes all the more necessary 
the use of the Sunday School for primary Bible instruction. 

Splendid examples of hospital construction and administra- 
tion are being erected by the Japanese, and these institutions, 
inspired by similar Christian hospitals in Korea, will lead 
to the substitution of modern for superstitious methods of 
treatment of sickness. 

Yet with all this emphasis upon the physical expression 
of a higher civilization, the Japanese reahze that they need 
help in producing that which underhes all government, and 
without which no government can permanently endure — 
namely, the character of its citizens. Education and physical 




iiOVS J- RUM KONti-JU AlKTJIODIST SC'IIUUL 

A LITTLE BURDEN BEARER 

A KOREAN FUNERAL 





STANDARD OIL CANS ON A KOREAN RACK OR JIGGIE 
RETURNING FROM CHURCH 
A STRAW-THATCHED SCHOOL 



THE NEW KOREA 125 

comforts will not accomplish this. The moral character of 
the future Korea is of first importance. This can only be 
conserved by the expulsion of the brothel from Korea and 
the bringing in of the Christ as the spiritual dynamic in the 
making of a loyal and clean and strong citizenship. 

Korea has a history of 4,000 years, and its earliest records 
go back to B. c. 11 22, when Korea became a dependency of 
China and received from the Chinese arts and politics. The 
highways are pointed out to-day along which the Chinese 
commissioners came, and the gates through which they passed 
to receive the annual tribute. The arts were, in turn, passed 
on to Japan, and the Korean artisans imported into Japan 
became the founders of much of Japanese art. The Chino- 
Japanese war (1894-5) gave Korea independence from China. 
The Russo-Japanese war (1894-5) made Korea practically a 
dependency of Japan, and in August, 19 10, the formal transfer 
to Japan was made. 

When the Christian missionaries went to Korea just a few 
decades ago, in the persons of Dr. George Heber Jones and 
Dr. H. C. Underwood, they found a people without special 
religious aflfiliations, as Buddhism, imported from China, had 
lost its grip upon the people and was largely decadent. The 
presentation of a vital Christianity met the needs of the peo- 
ple exactly, and over 220,000 have been brought into the 
Christian church as the result. 

The Sunday School interest, which is the Bible studying 
service of the entire church, an almost ideal condition in 
Korea, numbers 2,392 Sunday Schools, with 171,632 scholars 
and 6,631 teachers and officers. 

Two Bible Societies, the British and Foreign, and the 
American, have in the last three years circulated 1,113,319 
copies of the Bible and portions. 



126 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

The new Korea will reach its best when, discarding all 
national ambitions, it shall realize that its destiny is to be- 
come a great evangelistic force in the Far East, even as the 
Jews were selected for this great national task in the near 
East. 



CHAPTER XIV 
A MOUNTAIN JOURNEY 



CHAPTER XIV 

A MOUNTAIN JOURNEY 

In order to carry through the extensive plans for the Korean 
visitation, the party had gone from Shimonoseki to Fusan in 
two steamer groups. At Fusan Rev. James G. Holdcroft, 
the general secretary of the Sunday School committee for 
Korea, was awaiting our arrival, together with Messrs. George 
and R. E. Winn, of the Presbyterian work at Fusan. 

Four divisions of the party members were then made — a 
Kwanju group, a Fusan group, one for Pyeng Yang and Syen 
Chun, and one for Songdo. These groups were so organized 
as to include good speaking material in each. Mr. Heinz 
and some of the party went straight to Seoul, the Korean 
capital, where the four groups later converged for the Na- 
tional Convention. 

At Fusan three days were spent by Mr. and Mrs. Morton 
and Miss Snell. The anxiety of these Korean people for 
Sunday School instruction was pathetic in the extreme. 
They simply begged the party to remain longer. 

A conference for all the missionaries in the section was 
held at the home of Rev. A. Mackenzie, of the Presbyterian 
School, and lasted the entire afternoon. 

From Fusan the Morton party went to Kong-Ju, a very 
interesting city, seventeen miles from the railroad on the 
way to Seoul, and this journey of seventeen miles was taken 
by rickisha, which is the Korean as well as the Japanese car- 

129 



I30 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

riage. The ordinary means of travel, however, is the pedal 
method. The Koreans think nothing of going fifty to one 
hundred miles on foot, and you can see them on the country 
roads singly and in groups using nature's cheapest method of 
transportation. Clad in their long white coats or in white 
muslin short coats and baggy trousers, the effect is always 
interesting. 

At Kong-Ju a three days' institute was held, and the in- 
terest was intense. One man came seventy-five miles; two, 
fifty miles, and several twenty-five miles, in order to take 
advantage of these meetings. Rev. W. C. Swearer, Rev. 
Corwin Taylor, Rev. Earl Cranston Williams, and Dr. Van 
Buskirk devoted their entire time to the success of the meet- 
ings and the comfort of the party. 

At a Sunday School demonstration at the suburb of Kong- 
Ju-One, seven miles farther in, the tithing system is practised 
by the Christians in a unique way. These Koreans set aside 
daily every tenth spoonful of rice needed for their daily use 
as an offering for the work of missions. This rice, on the 
day the party was there, was purchased by a member of the 
group. 

A very pleasant feature in connection with the group meet- 
ing in the Kong-Ju section was the presence of about one 
hundred young students, who met the party, upon arrival, 
one mile from the city, and when leaving accompanied the 
visitors to the station in Pauline fashion, and were evi- 
dently deeply moved at the departure of these Sunday School 
friends who had come so far to bring a message of help and 
cheer. 

The group that was to take the mountain journey arrived 
April nth at Fusan, and was at once taken in hand by that 
enthusiastic Texas product, Rev. M. L. Swinehart, a natural 



A MOUNTAIN JOURNEY 131 

Sunday School promoter, whose Sunday School organizing 
genius added 2,500 in about two years to the Sunday School 
membership of the Southern Presbyterian Church, and these 
from purely heathen families. His plan is to go into a \il- 
lage with a new missionary, talk to parents and children, 
give out "surplus material," Sunday School picture-cards, 
from American Sunday Schools, and start a school. The 
Beatitudes, Lord's Prayer, Twenty-third Psalm, and other 
scripture are taught, and the new missionary gets his training 
in breaking new ground. Mr. Swinehart has demonstrated 
for all of Korea that children from heathen homes can be won 
to the Sunday School as well as those from Christian families. 

The Mokpo-Kwangju party left Fusan by steamer with 
Mr. Swinehart at 6 p. m., April nth, to go around the end of 
Korea from Fusan to Mokpo. This trip proved very interest- 
ing, for the steamer sailed in and out among the islands all the 
way. The voyage was unusually quick, although Mokpo 
was not reached until noon of the 12th, two hours late. In 
the absence of a pier at Mokpo, the party had to go ashore on 
a "sampan," a broad- bottomed boat which we were destined 
to use many times before the journey's end. The sampan is 
usually sculled from the rear. 

A short rest and we were introduced to a Httle of Korean 
life at the Girls' School. Saturday night there is a conference 
of missionaries, and on Sunday morning Miss Brown has her 
first experience in speaking to a divided house. A high cur- 
tain down the centre divides the men from the women. Of 
course, she must stand on the women's side of the platform 
in speaking, and out of sight of the men. The women here 
are not quite so much in the limelight as their suffragette 
sisters in America. All are seated upon the floor, and there 
seems no waste space. 



132 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

An afternoon service, all in Korean, and an English service 
with the missionaries in one of their homes, and a talk by one 
of the party at the evening meeting, complete the day. 

The next morning we leave Mokpo at eight o'clock and, 
strange to relate, enter an auto for a ride of sixty miles over 
as fine a road as may be found anywhere in America. The 
road was built by the Japanese, one of their fine national 
highways, and had been opened only three months before. 
A railroad, by the way, is building from Mokpo to Seoul, so 
that the journey can now be made by rail. Before the auto 
road was completed a part of the distance was travelled by 
riverboat and part by horseback or carriage. 

About two miles out from Kwang-Ju we were greeted by 
the boys and girls from their respective schools, and then by 
the people, a gathering in all of 300. The brilliant display of 
color in these "Sunday go to meeting " dresses of the girls can 
be compared only to the rainbow. The party alighted and 
walked part of the distance back to town with the welcoming 
party, which pleased them very much. 

An afternoon meeting with the missionaries was held. At 
the night meeting for workers in the assembly hall of the 
Boys' School, Miss Brown used the blackboard in illustrating 
her talk, and was told by the missionaries the next day that 
the Korean men could not understand how a woman could 
know so much. It appears the lady missionaries in Korea 
have confined their work entirely to the women and children, 
and it was therefore a surprise to the men to have a woman 
stand on the platform and talk as well as a man. 

The next morning a horseback ride, three and one half 
miles up the mountain trail to an old temple, gave some re- 
creation and excitement, for the path was steep and narrow in 
places. 








A SOUTHERN rRlCSBYTlCKIAX SIWDAV SCIlOOl. (iROL 
CHINNAMPO METHODIST SUNDAY SCHOOL 




A BLIND KOREAN S. S. SUPERINTENDENT AND GRANDDAUGHTER 

BLIND SORCERESS, FIRST HOME DEPARTMENT MEMBER IN KOREA 

FIRST CRADLE ROLL MEMBER IN KOREA 

BLIND WANG 



A MOUNTAIN JOURNEY 133 

At the large Sunday School rally in the afternoon there 
were 1,000 people in attendance, and as many men and women 
as there were children. It was great! After this meeting 
the boys gave the party a reception. They had prepared 
Korean food for the guests, and a little badge of silver had 
been struck off especially for the party as a memorial of the 
visit. 

Many walked thirty miles to the evening service, and the 
Sunday School scholars for two and three miles around had 
walked in. Some of these schools were those organized by 
Mr. Swinehart only six months to a year before, and they 
recited, without an error, the names of the books of the Bible, 
the Commandments, the Apostle's Creed, and the Beatitudes. 

At six o'clock on the morning of April i6th we bid farewell 
to the missionaries and start for Kunsan. The first twenty 
miles of this mountain journey are made by rickishaw, one 
man to pull and one to push. Before leaving the city, they 
stop at the corner shop to get some extra shoes, for their rice 
straw sandals do not last on long journeys. It seems one 
push-man failed to appear, which caused some trouble, for 
when they stopped for the shoes they were soon in a heated 
discussion, and we were given the experience of witnessing a 
coolie fight. This consists usually in a desperate effort to 
get hold of the opponent's queue and drag him around by his 
hair until he is exhausted. The arrival of Mr. Swinehart 
settled the disturbance. 

At about eleven we reached the village, where the chair 
coolies were awaiting us. Lunch was eaten by the roadside, 
and by noon we were in rattan chairs swung between bamboo 
poles, these poles supported on the shoulders of the four 
coolies. Unfortunately the weight of one of the tour party 
(whose name we will not diviilge, for the sake of his heirs and 



134 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

namesakes) was too much for one of the poles, and it snapped, 
but the emergency had been provided for, and the party 
swung on, crossing the mountain range, over rivers and 
through valleys, for a distance of twenty-five miles, to the 
station. A three hours' rail ride brought us to Kimsan at 
11.30 that night, and with horse and buggy we are driven to 
the home of the missionaries ready for a good rest. 

The first gathering at Kunsan was for the workers. In the 
afternoon eight schools with beautiful Korean banners imited 
in a rally. The sight was indeed a picturesque one. These 
banners were afterward presented to the members of the party. 

A splendid general meeting at night and a visit to the 
Girls' School in the morning for a conference ^\^th the mis- 
sionaries completed the services. 

The next objective was Seoul, eight hours distant by rail, 
to which point the four parties were converging for the great- 
est Christian demonstration held in the Orient. 



CHAPTER XV 
FUSAN TO SYEN CHUN 



CHAPTER XV 

rUSAN TO SYEN CHUN 

Two groups, one headed by Mr. Landes, the other by Mr. 
Kinnear, moved northward from Fusan on the main line of 
railway toward Seoul and beyond. The first group had 
Taiku and Songdo as objectives. 

It is a novelty to find yourself in American-built cars 
dra^\^l by American-built locomotives on a broad-gauge rail- 
way after experience on the narrow-gauge railways in Japan. 
In Korea the roadbed, cars, and the attention of railroad 
attaches are nearly ideal. 

As you look out of these car windows from cushioned seats 
you note a sharp contrast with Japan in the character of the 
houses and the appearance of the villages. Instead of the 
frame buildings of Japan, with tiled or thatched roofs, we 
see mainly mud buildings, straw thatched, \\dth mud or 
straw fences instead of the board fences of Japan. The 
cleanliness of Japan is also lacking. A few years back the 
various smells of the Korean cities and villages, through lack 
of sanitary regulation, were very noticeable. The Japanese 
should be given credit for reforming these conditions where- 
ever they have had a chance. 

In southern Korea the colonization plans of Japan are 
bringing in Japanese settlers as farmers and merchants. It 
is estimated that some 250,000 immigrants have been brought 
in since the occupation. Gradually the Koreans are moving 

137 



138 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

farther north. Buildings of Japanese construction are every- 
where in evidence. Fusan seems largely Japanese. At the 
railway stations there is a mixture of railway employees in 
blue suits and brass buttons, the soldier police in khaki uni- 
form, and the Koreans, of the better class, in long white or 
gray or black coats, with cone-shaped horsehair hats tied 
under the chin, and the laboring class in short white jackets 
and baggy trousers, the latter carrying on their backs the racks 
on which immense burdens are borne. It is said that a 
Korean laborer carried a 500-pound trunk for many miles in 
this way. 

And now you will get off with Mr. Landes at Taiku, a city 
of southern Korea, of 40,000 population. 

Taiku station is occupied by missionaries of the Presbyte- 
rian Board, and a splendid educational and evangelistic work 
being done. The students of the Boys' School were addres- 
sed and conferences held with the native workers and mis- 
sionaries, with a total attendance of 1,000. 

At Taiku you will meet BKnd Wang, a converted sorcerer, 
who has worked out a system by which the blind of Korea 
are now being taught to read the Bible. His first effort pro- 
duced a series of tin squares made from Standard Oil cans. 
These cans, by the way, are among Korea's favorite household 
utensils. These tin squares he punched with marks which 
represented Korean syllables and words. These were strung 
together for purposes of reading. From this crude arrange- 
ment plates were finally produced to give these raised char- 
acters in page form, and now, through funds raised by Mr. 
Landes among the Sunday School friends in Pennsylvania, 
portions of the Bible are reproduced, and the blind of Korea 
are being taught to read. 

Leaving Taiku, we will pass Seoul and get off at Songdo, 



FUSAN TO SYEN CHUN 139 

the ancient capital of Korea. Here the Methodist Episcopal 
South missionaries are in control. Their splendid educational 
and other buildings are built of granite, cut from the mountain 
nearby, and cost less than frame buildings in America. There 
are 250 students here. Two large mass meetings, a confer- 
ence with native workers and missionaries and the students 
in the schools, gave audiences numbering about 2,000. 

A field-day exercise at Songdo brought together 3,000 
people. This affair was held on the grounds surrounding an 
old Confucian temple. One of these field-day sports was a 
race between boys to a spot where they were to give, by writ- 
ing on slates, answers to certain questions on the life of Christ, 
and then return to the starting point. The best answers and 
the quickest time made were rewarded by prizes distributed 
by three dignified looking judges. 

At Songdo, on abrilliant moonlight night, we saw the Korean 
women washing clothes in the stream. This they do by 
beating the clothes on stones, and then hanging them on 
bushes to dry. The many hues of Korean costume makes 
wash-day, or wash-night a time that puts Joseph's coat in the 
shade. That night a weird effect was produced by the 
Korean women, dressed in white, wending their way to the 
church. Under the brilliant moon this procession in white 
had an almost uncanny result. 

At Songdo there is a blind Sunday School superintendent 
who commits his entire program to memory for each Sunday: 
Scripture, hymns, and all. He came to the station to say 
"good-bye," and asked that we send as his message to Amer- 
ica, "John three, sixteen," and urged the people of America 
to keep on praying for Korea, and not to be discouraged. 

Pyeng Yang and Syen Chun, both north of Seoul, were the 
goals of the fourth group, led by Mr. Kinnear. At these two 



I40 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

places in northern Korea Christianity has been well developed: 
by the Methodist, Presbyterian, and Congregational churches 
at Pyeng Yang, and by the Presbyterian Church at SyenChun. 

As we passed through the station at Pyeng Yang we wit- 
nessed a remarkable welcome. Several hundred Korean 
Christians were drawn up on either side of- the roadway. 
Beyond was a host of the Sunday School boys and girls of 
Pyeng Yang, each school with its banner, the boys on one 
side, the girls on the other. The military salute of the boys, 
the graceful bow of the girls, will not soon be forgotten. 
Just beyond these Sunday School scholars was a well, in a 
railroad enclosure; this well was sunk by King Kija, a con- 
temporary of King David of Israel. By this old well walked 
the boys and girls of Korea, who had as their refuge the 
"fountain opened in the house of David for sin and for un- 
cleanness." And these children and young people walked 
four miles to give this welcome. Some of the boys in the 
Methodist Boys' School at Pyeng Yang a few years ago gave 
up their Christmas holidays in order to do evangelistic work 
in the surrounding villages, with the result that more than 
3,000 converts were reported. And they were mere boys of 
sixteen to eighteen years. Such material is worth saving. 

The welcome at Mr. Holdcroft's home was a very enjoy- 
able event. The Japanese Governor, Mayor, Judge of the 
Supreme Court, and other Japanese officials and pastors 
were present, and expressed gracefully their welcome. About 
one hundred of the boys and girls of a Sunday School thirty 
miles away were waiting for us outside the house. They had 
come all this distance to welcome the party and to present 
us with a picture of the school. The boys were in military 
costume, and the girls in varicolored dresses, and together 
they gave us a vision of the Korea-to-be. 




THE world's SUNDAY SCHOOL SALUTE, PYENG YANG 
SUNDAY SCHOOL GATHERING, PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH GROUNDS, 

PYENG YANG 




A KOREAN BABY CARRIAGE 

THE HAT OF A MOURNER 

A TYPICAL KOREAN MISSION DAY SCHOOL 



FUSAN TO SYEN CHUN 141 

It would take a full chapter to describe the great meetings 
at Pyeng Yang alone. Just imagine an audience of 1,600 
Korean boys and girls in either wing of a building, the wings 
built at right angles, the speaker addressing both wings from 
this angle. The World's Sunday School salute (clasping 
hands over the head) was a beautiful sight. Then an audi- 
ence of 1,500 men in white and gray and black suits, prin- 
cipally white, with the conventional hat of horsehair tied 
under the chin. Then another audience of 1,500 Korean 
women, white gowned and with white turbans as a headdress, 
and all are listening with an eagerness that moved one to do 
his best. 

At the close of one of these meetings we shook hands with 
one Korean who had, during the year, invited 3,500 in- 
dividuals to Christ. 

Mr. Heinz came to Pyeng Yang from Seoul for this day 
of wonderful meetings. His beautiful testimony to his own 
mother at the great gathering of Korean women is a treasured 
memory of that day. 

The party responded to an invitation of the Japanese 
officials to assist at the dedication of a new Government 
Girls' School. This dedication to the purposes of education 
was a solemn affair. After the addresses, the principal ap- 
proached the platform, the whole audience oppressively 
silent; he slowly unfolded a roll wrapped in a furoshiki, or 
large colored handkerchief, which the Japanese use exten- 
sively in shopping, wrapping school books, etc., and proceeded 
to read impressively the Emperor's rescript published twenty- 
four years ago, and which expressed the wish that there should 
be no one in the empire who should not have an opportunity 
to be educated. Slowly the principal folded the scroll, re- 
placed it in the furoshiki, bowed, and retired, but facing the 



142 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

platform. A school girl came forward with measured steps, 
bowed low, unfolded her manuscript slowly, read, and retired 
in the same way. A chord upon the little organ, and all were 
on their feet, the Japanese national anthem was sung, and 
the ceremony was over. Then tea and cake, which come 
before and after, and I was going to say between, ceremonies 
and functions, was served. 

We bid good-bye to the friends at Pyeng Yang with regret. 
Their friendship is very touching, especially that of the 
Koreans, who appreciate to the full any little attention or ser- 
vice. At the station a large number of these earnest people 
had gathered. We went down to the station in a man car, 
not a horse car, holding a dozen passengers, run on tracks and 
pushed by men, for several miles. We sang "God be with 
you till we meet again" as we moved out from the station 
northward to Syen Chun. 

We passed through valleys covered with rice and barley 
patches, and with the mountains always in view. You can 
never get away from the mountains in Korea. Korean vil- 
lages appeared here and there, donkeys piled high with wood 
or charcoal toiled slowly along the highways, and the hillsides 
were dotted with the round mounds of the dead. 

At Syen Chun, the Presbyterian centre, some hours to the 
north of Pyeng Yang, the welcome was strong, the services 
impressive, and the conferences with the missionaries mutually 
informing. A baseball game between the Korean high-school 
boys and the men of the party and missionaries was an affair 
of no mean importance. Most touching was the visit upon 
the party by the Korean pastor and elders, the pastor for a 
year one of the conspiracy prisoners, but discharged. The 
prayer of one of the elders, in which he prayed for us and for 
Korea with broken voice, brought tears to our eyes. Out of 



FUSAN TO SYEN CHUN 143 

their poverty these men pressed a few gifts of brass upon the 
party. 

Syen Chun is beautiful for situation, surrounded by hills, 
as is Songdo and so many of the Korean cities. 

The missionary homes are constructed largely in Korean 
style, with mud walls, tiled roofs built on a graceful curve, and 
the supporting and roof timbers showing on the exterior and 
interior. I addressed at Syen Chun a primary day school 
seated on rough benches in a low ceiling Korean building 
with straw and matting on the earth floor. I had to stoop 
low in entering the door and in moving around, for I found in 
Japan and Korea that they have not designed their construc- 
tion for six-footers. 

The last evening of our stay we had a round table dinner 
at one of the missionary homes. Missionaries take their 
turn in providing these meals. It was fine. And after the 
evening service we gathered for a good smg — not hymns, but 
college songs and favorites — with these missionaries, many of 
whom are young people who have come out of our colleges, 
bright young people who have caught a vision of service to 
the world and who are doing heroic work; and one of their 
rare experiences on the field is to meet a bunch of folks, like 
our party, and with the serious work, to also have some social 
times of the best sort. And they said that for years they had 
not had such a royal good time. 

From Syen Chun the men of the party went north several 
hours on the railroad for an itinerating trip into the country. 
And that was the best fun of all. We took lunches and bag- 
gage for emergencies. At the station we found some little 
Korean nags waiting for us. There was fire in their eyes 
and a good kick to their heels as they faced us. But we were 
game if they were. We first climbed the hillside and ate our 



144 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

lunch of eggs and sandwiches and cake. Our Korean boy, 
with the lack of though tfuin ess characteristic of this people 
who live from hand to mouth, had sent the water ahead on the 
baggage horse. We sent him racing, as fast as they go here 
(which would never make first base on a three-base hit), 
after the water, in order to learn his lesson. Finally we were 
ready and all swung into the saddle. The stirrups were high, 
of course, for my long legs, but we managed to lengthen them 
a little (the stirrups, I mean, not the legs), and the nag jogged 
along — little short steps that kept you stirred up inside, 
so that we had three stirrups on the one animal. And I 
looked like a veritable Don Quixote with my legs almost 
touching the ground. But we got along pretty well— climbed 
a highland and got a view of river and mountain and plain 
that compensated for all the troubles. Then we descended 
to the plain, and we "came to a river and we couldn't get 
across," as we used to sing. But we signaled the boatman, 
and he brought a flat boat over, and we all, horses and men, 
managed to scramble aboard with sundry splashings and kick- 
ings. As we came to the other side we found a drunken 
Korean woman occupying the whole of a narrow plank which 
was our bridge over the black mud. She was finally disposed 
of, and we got aboard our fiery steeds and wound along the 
narrow path, with a ditch on either side into which we were 
threatened a forcible introduction by our animals. But it's 
a long path that has no turning, and we swung into a great 
high road thirty or forty feet across, built by the Japanese — 
seventy-five feet above the valley — a great miUtary highway 
leading north to Manchuria. We travelled several miles 
along this highway, over beautiful plains with rich soil, past 
several villages with straw-thatched houses and barns. Soon 
couriers on bicycles met us and hurried back to tell the folks 



FUSAN TO SYEN CHUN 145 

we were coming. At last the church was reached, situated in 
the midst of a smart market town. And I alighted with mu- 
tual satisfaction to the animal and myself. After the meeting 
at the church we ate our meal of canned goods and crackers 
and bread — prepared by our little Korean cook boy — and 
about five o'clock made our return journey by fresh steeds. 
The one I rode was a little shorter than the one I had had 
before. I stood it as long as seemed best, and finally con- 
cluded it was cruelty to.animals and men, and so walked some 
of the journey. We passed a well, situated out on the plain. 
The women were carrying their earthen jars to the well, just 
as in Rebecca's time, and then gracefully balanced the big 
jars on shoulder or head. I thought of the unchanging East, 
for the customs have been the same for thousands of years. 
Who attempts to change an Eastern custom, rooted into 
centuries of observance, has a great job. 

We came to the station in the dark of the evening, took 
train to the terminus of the Chosen railwav at the Yalu River 
where was fought the first great battle between the Russians 
and Japanese. Here we inspected the magnificent steel 
bridge reaching over to Manchuria. Taking the night train 
southward, we were at Seoul in the morning, and glad to once 
more see the entire party, which had been separated in the 
visitation of different points in Korea. 



CHAPTER XVI 
AT KOREA'S CAPITAL 




SUNDAY SCHOOL FIELD DAY, SONGDO 

GREATEST SUNDAY SCHOOL GATHERING IN ORIENT, OLD PALACE 

GROUNDS, SEOUL. IS,000 PRESENT 




SUNDAY SCHOOL PROCESSION, OLD PALACE GROUNDS, SEOUL 

A FUEL MERCHANT, SEOUL 

A TYPICAL KOREAN BUILDING AND GROUP OP GIRLS 



CHAPTER XVI 

AT Korea's capital 

Seoul is becoming one of the great capitals of the Orient 
under the constructive energy of the Japanese. Millions of 
yen are being expended on its transformation. 

The narrow streets are being replaced by broad avenues. 
Sanitation is rigidly insisted upon, and the disease- breeding 
conditions of the past are being eliminated. Roads are 
undergoing improvement and a park system is under de- 
velopment. 

The public buildings constructed in recent years would do 
credit to any great city. The government bank here is prob- 
ably the costliest in the Far East. The Japanese section of 
the city is of comparatively recent construction and is very 
substantial. 

Seoul, like other Korean cities, is built wdth a main street 
through the centre of the city running north and south, 
and intersected midway by another running east and west. 
At the terminus of each street is a gate named according to 
location — North Gate, East Gate, etc. These gates, as 
in Bible times, are places of congregation. Here the elders 
of the city were wont to gather in Bible times, and the highest 
compliment to a virtuous and thrifty housewife in those days 
was to have her name praised " in the gates of the city." 

The city is surrounded by majestic mountains. Over the 
crown of these you can make out the city wall, 500 years old, 

149 



150 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

winding along like a huge snake, an ancient defence, but use- 
less to-day. 

One of the old quarters of the city was used by Korean 
gentlemen who had grown impecunious, and there were many 
such. If a man became a Uttle prosperous, there were two 
methods of relieving him of his surplus: the collector for the 
official, who suggested that a division of the property be made 
for the benefit of both, and the man's poorer relatives, who 
invited themselves, and kept their hands in his rice bag, as it 
is expressed, until it was sufficiently reduced. One cannot 
wonder, imder these circumstances, why Koreans make no 
pretence at display. 

The Christian work at Seoul is highly creditable. The 
Bible Training Institute founded in memory of Dr. Pierson 
is here. The Severance Hospital stands as a monument to a 
Christian philanthropist. Other Christian hospitals and 
dispensaries here minister yearly to thousands, many of whom 
receive spiritual heaHng as well. When one knows the 
practices of the past, when all pain was treated on the basis 
of the indwelling of an evil spirit, he will be thankful for the 
blessing of medical missions. The bodies of children have 
been punctured with long needles to drive out the evil spirit 
responsible for a stomachache. Scars on the heads of chil- 
dren are the result of burning with hot irons, and to see a bunch 
of these scarred heads together, as I did at Pyeng Yang, is 
pitiable. 

The combination of the college work of the Methodist and 
Presbyterian churches at Seoul is one of the recent advance 
steps. The Theological Seminary here has been a union affair 
for some time. 

The party arrived at Seoul April 19th, when the cherry and 
plum blossoms were in full bloom. In the afternoon occurred 



AT KOREA'S CAPITAL 151 

a great Sunday School rally, the most wonderful demonstra- 
tion of Sunday School strength seen in the Orient. The day 
was perfect. The place selected for the rally was the old 
Palace grounds where formerly the blood of Christian martyrs 
had been freely shed. From all directions the Sunday Schools 
came marching with banners and music, until 15,000 were 
concentrated upon the grounds. So perfect was the organi- 
zation that this great company was quickly adjusted to the 
Une of march within the grounds, and, preceded by the Korean 
Salvation Army band and the flags of Japan, Great Britain, 
and America, and the Christian Conquest flag, marched and 
countermarched, singing as it went. It was reviewed by the 
Japanese officials, missionaries, and members of the tour party. 
Dr. Underwood was the general director. As the great com- 
pany of adults went by with the children, a Japanese official 
turned to me to say that he thought the Sunday School was 
simply for children, an idea which strangely prevails in a few 
spots in America. I told him of the two to three million 
adults in the organized Bible classes of America, and of the 
splendid results of such membership in promoting character 
and loyalty. 

And now the great crowd is seated on the ground, briUiant 
in the hues of pink, red, yellow, blue, green, orange— a gor- 
geous rainbow effect against the near background of pine and 
blossoming azalea bushes, cherry and plum trees, and the 
further background of pine-covered mountain with jagged 

crest. 

Dr. Underwood is calling for order with uplifted baton. 
The band and singing host unite in "Onward, Christian Sol- 
diers," and "Jesus loves even me." The exercises and songs 
by various schools would be creditable to any American 
Sunday School gathering. Mr. Heinz and others spoke the 



152 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

greetings of the American Sunday Schools, and the World's 
Sunday School salute was given. As they sat there so earnest, 
so hungry for the message, one thought instantly of that 
other multitude under an eastern sky on the hillside by Gali- 
lee, for whom the Master yearned and whom He fed with the 
earthly bread and the Bread of Life. 

Peacefully the multitude dispersed after the Doxology, the 
people joining in a fervent "Amen." 

That evening a conference of extreme importance was held 
at the instance of Mr. Sekiya, the Japanese Minister of Edu- 
cation. Judge Watanabe of the Court of Appeals was present, 
together with Japanese officials and educational leaders in 
Seoul. Some of our men were there, and after an opening 
address by Mr. Kinnear, on "Religious Education," the 
Minister of Education and others asked a large number of 
questions as to the history, purpose, and plans of the Sunday 
School, and the curriculum, methods of training teachers, 
and relation to the public school. Those inquiring seemed 
entirely satisfied with the answers. The Minister of Edu- 
cation requested a list of the best books upon the Sunday 
School. 

It was felt that this meeting had done much to dispel sus- 
picion as to the intent of the Sunday School movement and 
to lend encouragement to the religious education of the youth 
of Korea. Word has come that some of these prominent 
officials have since joined the Presbyterian Sunday School at 
Seoul, as scholars. 

A dinner was tendered the party as a special courtesy by 
Governor General Terauchi at his residence. The Governor 
urged the party to introduce Christian education through the 
Sunday School, and impressed the importance of cultivating 
through it the spirit of loyalty to the government such as is 



AT KOREA'S CAPITAL 153 

promoted by the Sunday Schools of America for their govern- 
ment. 

The Seoul Chamber of Commerce gave all of the party a 
dinner at the Bank of Chosen. This building cost $2,000,000. 
At this dinner a number of Japanese noblemen and distin- 
guished men were present. 

Several of the party, by permission of the Japanese authori- 
ties, called upon Baron Yun, who was under trial on the 
general charge of conspiracy. We were accompanied by the 
secretary of the Governor, Hon. M. Komatsu, Director of the 
Foreign Bureau, a distinguished author, a graduate of Colum- 
bia University (New York), handsome and gracious, and who 
was unfailing in his attentions to the visitors. Baron Yun 
was more than pleased to see us, to receive messages from the 
Sunday School friends in America, and to learn of the Zurich 
convention, and of the visitation of our party to Korea. 

The visitors were kept busy at Seoul addressing a series of 
great Sunday School gatherings at different churches, and 
visiting the schools and hospitals. At the farewell meeting 
at the Methodist Church the members of the party were all 
seated at the front of the room. After graceful addresses 
by Mr. Cynn and others, brass bowls and plates were pre- 
sented to each member of the party as souvenirs. 

A reception by the American Consul-General, Mr. G. H. 
Scidmore, at the Consulate General, followed. There we 
were privileged to meet with one of the sweetest women seen 
in our travels, the mother of the Consul-General, whose face 
and life radiated sunshine. 

The next morning we took the train southward for Fusan. 
The day was made a bright one by the narration of the inter- 
esting experiences of the several parties. 

At Fusan we bade farewell that night to the missionaries, 



154 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

and to Korea. As the steamer swung slowly away from the 
pier, we sang with a new appreciation, "God be with you" 
and "There's a land that is fairer than day." Then Mr. 
Heinz suggested his mother's favorite, "Oh, think of the 
home over there," and that home had a new meaning as we 
thought of the ships of faith coming home from many lands, 
bearing multitudes which no man can number, of many races, 
but with one King, one Father, One Saviour and Lord, and 
dropping anchor at last at the "Homeland of the Leal." 

The lights of Fusan faded gradually from view, and we 
made ourselves comfortable for the night, to wake up in the 
morning at Moji, Japan, just opposite Shimonoseki, for we 
were to spend two wonderful weeks in the Island of Kyushu, 
the Switzerland of Japan. 



CHAPTER XVII 
IN THE HEART OF A CRATER 




STARTING TROM BEPPU STATION 

WELCOMING CROWDS 

ON THE WAY TO BEPPU. LUNCH TIME ON TRAIN 




BEPPU'S MAYOR, WELCOMING COMMITTEE AND GUESTS 

AN AMERICAN EAGLE, BEPPU PARK 

THE WELCOMING ERIENDS AT STATION, BEPPU 



CHAPTER XVn 

ESf THE HEART OF A CBATER 

The great Island of Kyushu, separated from the Island of 
Nippon by the straits of Shimonoseki, is little known or 
visited by American tourists. Most of these tourists after 
visiting Tokyo, Nikko, Kyoto, and a few other points, reach 
Shimonoseki by rail or boat, cross to Mogi on the Kyushu 
side of the strait and then take the train straight for Nagasaki, 
there to pick up the steamers for Shanghai or Manila. It 
would be infinitely better to take a later steamer from Naga- 
saki and devote at least a week to a survey of Kyushu, 
which, in historical interest and scenic grandeur and beauty, 
is possibly unmatched anywhere. 

From Kagoshima, the southernmost point, Admiral Togo 
and many great leaders of Japan have come. The Satsuma 
Clan from southern Kyushu, and the Choshu Clan in south- 
western Nippon, placed the present dynasty on the throne. 
Kyushu has been the scene of great battles between clans 
contending for mastery. Kumamoto, at the heart of Kyushu, 
is rich in historical lore. From here came the band of Japanese 
pledged to Christianize Japan. Between Kumamoto and 
Kagoshima lies the Japanese Switzerland, unrivaled for its 
natural beauty of river and gorge and mountain lifts. On the 
east are the famous hot springs of Beppu, renowned for their 
curative powers for rheumatic and skin and other complaints. 
Great manufacturing centres such as Kurime and Moji are 

157 



158 f A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

here. The bulk of Japan's coal, exported to many points, 
comes from this island. One of the greatest government 
steel plants of the world, employing 10,000 hands, is located 
here. 

This island is extremely conservative, and because of this 
has not come to the attention of travelers as much as the 
more progressive Island of Nippon, but its natural resources 
and beauty, and the growing enterprise of its citizens, are 
bound to win it a deserved place on all travel schedules. 

Shikoku and Kyushu, the two lower islands, call themselves 
"Rural Japan," and lament that they have so Httle of interest 
to show visitors. But it is a Japanese characteristic to speak 
modestly of one's self and one's possessions. 

Before taking the train at Moji for Beppu, we took the 
launch to Shimonoseki to get some long-deferred mail. And 
on such occasions, ten thousand miles from home, you see 
human nature in its most natural expressions, beaming de- 
Ught as an anticipated letter is found, keen disappointment 
in a failure to hear from a loved one, a swift scanning of letters 
to see if the news is good or bad, and then quickly open the 
next, and all to be read and reread in the days intervening 
before the next mail. And the good father of the party, Mr. 
Heinz, goes about sharing in the joys and disappointments, 
leaving his own letters unread untU later. 

At the Moji landing we were met by the missionaries and 
the railroad station master, who conducted us to the station 
and served us with tea. Think of an American railroad 
official showing such marked attention to guests. 

We are to return to Moji later on for meetings, so we are 
ushered aboard a special car for the four-hours' run to Beppu 
on the northeastern coast of Kyushu. This ride about May 
first is one of rare pleasure. 



IN THE HEART OF A CRATER 159 

It was a warm day, and coming from the cool of Korea we 
appreciated the fact that we were in the sunny south of Japan 
and must adjust our clothing to the change. The scenery 
along the route, of shore and islands and mountain ranges and 
fertile and carefully tilled valleys, was magnificent. The 
best yet, said some of the party. These Japanese farmers 
make the land look Hke a garden spot. The barley, planted 
in small plots and up the hillsides as high as they can be 
cultivated and carefully terraced with granite fronts, was 
well up and green as in our late May or June. The white and 
black curved tile roofs of their homes, the Uttle gardens at- 
tached to each home, these gardens a miniature of some 
beauty spot set with stunted pines and plums and azaleas, 
add to the variety and beauty of this kaleidoscope of nature 
as the train moves by. 

A station or two this side of Beppu some of the officials 
of Beppu board the train, as is the custom in welcoming those 
they think to be distinguished guests. The Vice-Mayor, the 
representative of the Governor, the president of the Chamber 
of Commerce, the editor of the newspaper, are usually in this 
delegation, and introductions and low bows and exchange of 
cards and words of greeting take up the time until the train 
reaches the station. 

This was the first time a foreign party of this size had 
visited Beppu, with its thousand hot springs, and the city 
officials were on their mettle. As we filed out of the car we 
passed a long line of the various reception committees of 
citizens, Patriotic Daughters, school officials, missionaries, and 
native pastors. As we moved out of the station bombs were 
discharged as a note of welcome. Our ears caught the strains 
of "Yankee Doodle," "Columbia, the Gem of the Ocean," 
etc., played enthusiastically by the waiting city band. The 



i6o A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

whole city of 20,000 people seemed to be drawn up at the 
station. With great form we filed into our jinrikishas, and 
the Mayor in his high silk hat led the long line of human car- 
riages away from the station. Mr. Heinz and Mrs. Landes 
occupied the only horse-carriage in Beppu. We were de- 
hghted to see at every doorway large Japanese and American 
flags crossed in token of union. We understood afterward 
that the Mayor, a Christian, had ordered 20,000 flags and 
told the people to buy them, and the whole city was decorated. 
We shouted our "Ohayos" and "Banzais" to delighted crowds 
as we passed. Even the Buddhist temple was decorated. 
We passed a garden which had a great bamboo arch with the 
words "Welcome " wrought out in bamboo. Just within a 
large American eagle was constructed of pine in honor of the 
visitors, and was suspended between the trees of the garden. 
The wings must have been some twenty feet from tip to tip. 
Some of the party were escorted to Japanese hotels, and some 
to the small foreign hotel away up the mountainside, from 
which a magnificent view of Beppu harbor, with its beautiful 
sweep of shore, was obtained. 

Beppu lies in the heart of a great volcanic crater, probably 
ten to fifteen miles across. One hundred years ago an edge of 
this crater fell into the sea and out of sight, and a great 
mountain, called Beppu Mountain, appeared. The curve 
of the shoreline adds to the attractiveness of the scene. 
Hot springs and boiling mud and steaming earth here and 
there are the only remnants of the terrific force which, ages 
ago, played at the spot where now 20,000 people have built 
their homes and are earning their livelihood by taking care 
of the million visitors annually who seek the mineral baths 
here for the cure of rheumatism and stomach troubles. The 
baths are boiling hot, and within a few feet of each other may 



IN THE HEART OF A CRATER i6i 

be found springs coming from different stratas of earth, one 
containing iron, another carbonate of soda, another sulphur. 
And people go from bath to bath and steam themselves in 
nature's Turkish bath. There seems to be much laxity 
in the dress of the people. Some things that seem to a 
stranger as loose in the customs of Japan are a part of cen- 
turies of observance, and are often entirely devoid of wrong 
intent. As Christian standards of dress and conduct have 
gradually permeated Japan, there is a decided improvement 
in many respects. The public baths are now ordinarily 
separated by partitions for the sexes, and in places public 
notices call for carefulness as to dress. 

But Beppu had not exhausted its welcome. A great public 
meeting was held at one of the public schools, the Mayor 
presiding, and 1,300 being present to listen to the addresses, 
or lectures, as the Japanese call them. The boys of the school 
gave a fine exhibition of military evolutions in the schoolyard, 
using the German army step. The girls also gave what would 
be the equivalent to our folk dance at home. From the 
school we went to one of the largest Japanese restaurants, or 
riori, for luncheon, as the rain prevented the garden luncheon. 
These Japanese restaurants, where foreign food is served, are 
very common in Japan. Frequently they are used as feast 
places, where sake, the rice wine, is drunk, and the geisha of 
Japan entertain with music and dancing. 

The welcome committee exchanged our shoes for slippers. 
The Japanese ladies of distinction escorted our ladies to the 
open second floor of the restaurant, one large room strung 
with American and Japanese flags. At the farther end are the 
two honorable places, decorated with a few beautiful Japanese 
pines stunted and carefully bent to give the branches a certain 
trend and effect, and we occupied those most honorable places. 



i62 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Tea and cake were first served, while the hosts sat at one 
end of the room waiting courteously — one hundred of them 
— until we had finished our tea. Then the signal was given 
and we filed into the large third-story room, where luncheon 
was served by Japanese ladies, who themselves would touch 
nothing until their guests had completed the meal. And 
there was no sake served, for the word was given that we 
only took mineral waters. Then followed speeches of wel- 
come by the Mayor, president of the Chamber of Commerce, 
Japanese pastors, and public officials for the ken, or district. 
After the replies the fireworks started up — bombs and 
parachutes. From three of the latter hung, high up in the 
air, Japanese and American flags. From an ingenious mast 
contrivance three sets of flags were liberated, American and 
Japanese flags alternating, and the word "Welcome" be- 
tween. 

And, mind you, all of this occurred while the California 
land bill matter was in the air, and the press in the next city 
was calling upon the people to go to war at once, for the 
Japanese people have been and are greatly disturbed by the 
discrimination against their nation in the California bill. We 
were besieged by newspaper men at every point for an ex- 
pression of our views, and in the public meetings we spoke 
on the subject by request, and sought to let the real situation 
be known and to inform concerning the friendly sentiment of 
the mass of our American people. Touching the strategic 
centres as we did, nearly thirty-five of them, our presence and 
spirit and message did, we hope, help toward a better under- 
standing between the two nations. The Japanese people are 
exceedingly friendly, our trade relations are important. But 
they are a proud and sensitive people, and our politicians in 
America are apt to go further than is wise and just in class- 



IN THE HEART OF A CRATER 163 

ingthe Japanese with other nations, some of them from the Oc- 
cident, who are vastly inferior, and who are admitted to rights 
of citizenship denied a nation which has 98 per cent, of its 
.children in the public schools. 

At Beppu 2,000 gathered at the evening mass meeting for 
the messages of the party on "Religious Education," and on 
"Business Men and the Sunday School." 

A walk over the hills on the following day gave us the first 
day's outing we had had from the steady program of recep- 
tions, and we drank in the joy of the day and the beauty of 
mountain and village and sea. The peasants we passed 
seemed to be pleased with our salutation " Ohayo " (pro- 
nounced like our Ohio). We visited several of the steaming 
lakes that lie within this crater zone, one of them a beautiful 
blue, and bottomless, apparently. Eggs for our dinner were 
cooked by simply placing them in this water for a few minutes. 
A red lake was also visited, the soil of which was a red clay. 
In our honor no fees were charged at any point. We visited 
the clay works, the brick being hardened by the heat from the 
steaming earth, and the clay boiled up with constant starthng 
explosions. In one of the villages the bathers at the bathing 
places would shut themselves in a steam room and dry-heat 
rooms all made from this same volcanic soil. One felt strange 
at times in the midst of these suggestions of stored-up forces 
which might be suddenly let loose. But so young men some- 
times play with the fire of temptation and take their chances 
with the day of judgment. 

When one considers that the Christian membership of 
Beppu is only one hundred in an extremely conservative city, 
the demonstration here can be better measured and its force 
for good determined in laying the foundation for a Christian 
advance later on. And this same thing can be said of all the 



i64 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

remarkable gatherings in this Island of Kyushu, where ten 
important centres were visited. 

The party subdivided from Beppu. The ladies and several 
of the men took their chances in reaching Kagoshima, on the 
extreme south, by a coastwise steamer. While they lived to 
tell the tale, there was a certain lapse, or hiatus, or interval, 
concerning which the members of that group are silent. But 
it is said there were miniature eruptions and boiling over that 
bore a strong resemblance to the kind witnessed in Beppu and 
vicinity. We shall leave them in Kagoshima for the present, 
to recover, while we follow the two groups which move on to 
Kagoshima by rail, scheduled for important cities on the way. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

oiTA TO fukuoe:a 



CHAPTER XVIII 

OITA TO FUKUOKA 

One of the newspapers of Oita was demanding war at the 
time of the arrival of our party at that city, but there was no 
evidence of imfriendliness in the welcome given to the visitors 
by the citizens of the place. The Buddhist priests here, as in 
many other places, showed a keen interest in the coming of the 
party, and a broad and charitable spirit. One of the priests 
showed Mr. Heinz his boys' orphanage, and together they 
discussed plans for bringing in a better day in the reUgious 
education of the young. He showed Mr. Heinz bank ac- 
counts of the twenty orphans in his care, invited him to the 
temple, and opened a revolving bookcase twenty feet in di- 
ameter containing hundreds of books. The next day he sat 
at the right in the great meeting, was invited later to tea, and 
distributed fans to the party. 

Oita is the capital of the province, and probably the most 
conservative city in this section of Japan. But just here 
some strong meetings were held. These included an address 
by Miss Brown, of Nebraska, at the large Girls' School. Miss 
Brown's former relation to the pubKc school work of her 
state, as superintendent of the public school work of her 
county, gave her a splendid hearing. She was hardly pre- 
pared, however, for the question which followed when the 
girls asked her views, as an American, on " courtship." This 
subject is, of course, of world-wide interest to girls, and the 

167 



i68 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Japanese girls were especially interested, as they have nothing 
to say as to who shall court them. This is all arranged by a 
" go-between " employed by the parents of both parties for 
this purpose, and the bride to be may not see her husband 
but once before the ceremony. How much Miss Brown spoke 
from theory and how much from experience has not been told 
outside of the school. Under such circumstances a little 
Methodist " experience " is always good to fall back upon, as 
the Methodist itinerants always found when sermon material 
ran short. 

The formal gathering at the City Hall was an unusual 
affair. More than 2,000 were present. The Mayor pre- 
sided, the Governor was present, and the educational people 
and members of the Chamber of Commerce participated. 
People heard a Christian message that had never before 
listened to one. In fact, this feature of the entire visit was 
remarkable. In the fifty places touched in Japan, some 30,000 
to 50,000 Japanese, thousands of them officials and leaders, 
have had opportunity to listen for the first time to Christian 
messages and from men not paid for the work, and the hearing 
was always an eager one. One result at least should be that 
these leaders will be disposed to give the Sunday School a 
fair chance. 

At this City Hall meeting Mr. Heinz pulled out his watch to 
time his reply. The speech ran on faster than the watch, and 
might even have taxed the patience of a Japanese audience as 
to length (and that is saying much) if he had not suddenly 
discovered that the watch had stopped going. 

In Oita Dr. Peters, of the Reformed Church, has conducted 
a Bible correspondence course with 2,000 Japanese. He ad- 
vertised for names of those who desired to connect themselves 
with such a course. A similar plan has been tried elsewhere in 



mm 



^-■^^i;- 



;.^- .# ■# ,%^, ®- # # ^1 









**' ' ^"c, ■', ' V ^ ^^-.S--^ ^^ife- ^:?®tf':*: 4^ '''-^Sijf^m 




BUDDHIST ORPHANAGE, OITA 
IN AN AZALEA GARDEN, KURIME 



OrXA TO FUKUOKA 169 

Japan, and it has been found that there were thousands of 
non-Christian Japanese, many of them heads of villages and 
educators, who were open to light through such a course. 
This sort of Home Department plan seems capable of large 
extension in Japan. 

The Oita party, with Mr. Landes in charge, next visited 
Nakatsu, where 496 of the government school students were 
addressed. These students gave an exhibition of fencing 
and jiu jitsu, a favorite exercise of the students. A short con- 
ference with the missionaries and native workers was held in 
the afternoon, and a mass meeting in the evening, attended 
by 600, despite a great downpour of rain. 

The welcome party at Kokura included the Mayor and 
twelve of the city officials. At the afternoon meeting Professor 
Roper delighted the Japanese with his piano work, and the 
important work of holding the 'teen-years for character 
making was presented by Miss Snell. Mr. Hall spoke of the 
work for adults. The Mayor and public school officials were 
present. 

From the church we went to a social meeting at the Luthe- 
ran Church, and partook of tea and delicious sponge cake, the 
Mayor and pastors meanwhile asking questions on Sunday 
School work and the San Francisco situation. How to get 
parents interested in the Sunday School was a crucial ques- 
tion. Unfortunately, in Japan the Sunday School has been 
considered too largely a child's school, and this conception 
of the work of the school needs broadening. 

The cablegram sent by the party to Secretary of State 
Bryan in the interest of an adjustment of the San Francisco 
affair was spoken of with great appreciation by the Mayor 
and officials. 

A fine banquet was later provided for the party by the 



I70 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Mayor at the City Hall. Here he spoke his welcome and later 
attended the mass meeting with 600 present. Addresses 
were made by Mr. Stafford, Mr. Hall, and Miss Brown on 
religious education. 

From Kokura we took trolley to Yawata, where 10,000 
men are employed in the immense government steel works. 
The iron for these works is brought from China, and the coal 
is mined close by. Everything in the iron line up to 14-inch 
guns can be produced here. It is a shipping port for large 
vessels. 

Japanese and American flags decorated the hall of the 
training school where we addressed a section of the employees 
and the wives of the officials of the works, and were after- 
ward taken to dinner at the Officers' Club, 

We met here the pastor of the Japanese Congregational 
Church, who is employed by the steel works to visit the em- 
ployees and improve their condition. There are 100 of the 
employees in his Bible class, and he has a strong Sunday 
School. 

At Wakamatsu, nearby Yawata, we were met by the 
Mayor, president of the Chamber of Commerce, and pastors. 
A tender was put at our disposal, and despite the rain we in- 
spected the harbor and the wonderful coal-shipping facihties. 
More than 4,000,000 tons of coal are shipped annually from 
this port, 

A welcome meeting at the principal restaurant at Waka- 
matsu gave us the opportunity of hearing from the oflficials 
of the city and to respond from our hearts for their beautiful 
manifestation of friendship for America. 

By tender, ricksha, and trolley we reached Moji and the 
Bankers' Club, where the strong business men of that growing 
and enterprising city gave a banquet and a remarkable hear- 



OITA TO FUKUOKA 171 

ing to the messages of the men of the group. Nowhere in 
Japan had we faced a more substantial group of business 
leaders, representing some of the greatest shipping, railroad, 
manufacturing, and banking interests of the empire. Japan's 
opportunity of developing its moral resources through Chris- 
tian education was presented by Mr. Stafford, Mr. Hall, and 
the writer. Professor Roper's playing was a feature. The 
California situation was here a topic of interest. 

Miss Brown held the interest of a group of Christian 
workers at a church meeting later as she illustrated by the 
blackboard the methods of lesson presentation. 

Fukuoka, a ken town of 100,000 and a busy manufacturing 
centre, gave a remarkable welcome to the travelers, in view 
of its conservative position and the fact that it had never 
before given oflScial recognition to a Christian party. The 
Mayor and officials, with the missionaries and native pastors, 
escorted some of the party from the station, the trolley car 
being specially decorated for this occasion with Japanese and 
American flags 

A little later other members of the party arrived and all 
were conducted to the City Hall, where an elaborate menu 
was served, the Mayor and Governor and a few ofiicials being 
present. 

Following the banquet the industrial exhibit was visited 
and a manufactory for the making of moulded and decorated 
dolls, for which Fukuoka is famed. From a hill in East 
Park a wonderful view is obtained of Fukuoka harbor and 
city. Nearby is a wisteria arbor, the finest and most exten- 
sive in Japan. It was in full bloom, and with its branches 
extended for hundreds of feet. To take tea under this arch 
of purple is an experience worth a visit to Japan. 

In the evening the City Hall was opened for a meeting of 



172 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

the party. More than 600 representative people were pres- 
ent. Girls from the Methodist Girls' School sang, Professor 
Roper played brilliantly, Mr. Hall sang a solo, our commission 
song and our "Banzai " were heard, and messages were given. 

Kurume proved to be of fascinating interest as a great manu- 
facturing city, but one not often visited by travelers. The 
Mayor, officials, and representatives of the strong Chamber of 
Commerce were at the station to welcome us. The Japanese 
Congregational pastor here is an enterprising man with strong 
business aptitude. 

Our first visit was to the azalea nursery, where azaleas of 
rare color and richness of bloom were gathered, and we had our 
pictures taken under an azalea arbor while eating some of their 
delicious rice candy. We were then taken to a flower show, 
where Admiral Togo and other figures were outlined in floral 
designs. A workers' meeting at the Lutheran Church was 
addressed by Dr. Wilbur and Mr. Harrison. 

In the evening a splendid banquet, combining both Ameri- 
can and Japanese dishes, was provided by our hosts, the 
Chamber of Commerce. Examples of the beautiful basket 
lacquer work, which is one of the many notable articles manu- 
factured here, were presented to the guests. At the rooms the 
party inspected with great interest the fine lanterns and um- 
brellas produced at this place. 

After the banquet the meeting of the citizens and Sunday 
School workers was addressed by Mr. Hall, Mr. Stafford, and 
the writer, and the importance of promoting close business 
relations between the two countries emphasized. 

That night we were cared for in a Japanese hotel, as there 
is no foreign hotel at this place. Thick mats were spread 
upon the floor and mosquito curtains drawn about. In the 
morning we washed at the metal basin in the court, and 



OITA TO FUKUOKA 173 

enjoyed a breakfast of fish, eggs, and steak. And the spirit 
of courtesy in those who served would grace the finest home 
in America. We did not know until the next day that a 
special guard had been placed about the hotel by the city au- 
thorities to insure our comfort and peace. 

In the morning we made an inspection of the cloth weaving 
and basket lacquer works, bade our genial hosts good-bye, 
and took train for Fukuoka, and thence through the heart of 
Kyushu for Kagoshima. 



CHAPTER XIX 
FROM KAGOSHIMA TO NAGASAKI 




AS THEY LEFT THE COAST STEAMER, KAGOSHIMA 

SUNDAY SCHOOL TEACHERS IN JAPANESE GARDEN, KAGOSHIMA 

MISS EINLEY'S home, KAGOSHIMA 




KAGOSHIMA SUNDAY SCHOOL RALLY 
CITY BANQUET, KAGOSHIMA 




NORMAL SCHOOL, SAGA 
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE BANQUET IN JAPANESE RESTAURANT, SAGA 



CHAPTER XIX 

FROM KA.GOSHIMA TO NAGASAKI 

It was only a few years ago that the railroad was completed 
to Kagoshima. To penetrate the mountain barriers and 
overcome other natural obstacles required the perseverance, 
patience, and skill which are native to the Japanese char- 
acter. But the task is completed, and now a natural won- 
derland, rivaUing Switzerland, is open to the tourist. 

You follow a stream most of the way from Kvmiamoto to 
Kagoshima. This stream winds through rocky fastnesses, 
now broadening out into a placid expanse, now concentrated 
into a narrow, leaping, rushing, roaring cataract. Boats of 
burden ply the stream farther down. Cottages and hamlets 
cling to the rugged mountain slopes. These slopes, cultivated 
on every available level by the Japanese gardener, combine 
the effect of garden and forest. The height of the moimtains 
is inspiring. The gorges make you feel at times aghast. 
And you wonder after the journey at the handiwork of God 
which has hidden away in the corners of the earth such per- 
fection of creative beauty. 

At the station nearest Kagoshima the city ofl&cials press 
their cards upon us, and we are glad to give ours in return. 
The news has gone ahead that the largest American party 
that has visited Kagoshima is coming, and nothing is left 
imdone to make the welcome complete. 

At Kagoshima the whole reception was overwhelming. 

177 



178 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

The Governor's deputy, the Mayor, officials, newspaper men, 
missionaries, and Japanese pastors are there with a genuine 
welcome. And Miss Finley, who had made the arrangements 
for the party, was on hand, the sole Methodist missionary in 
that important centre. Those members of the party who had 
reached Kagoshima by steamer from Beppu were there to add 
to the welcome. They had not been idle we found. Mr. Kin- 
near, by invitation of the principal of the Koto Gakko, had 
spoken to the students on the value of Christian character. 
This message meant much to the young men, coming as it 
did from a lawyer. This was the only time a Christian lay- 
man had spoken here excepting Mr. Bryan, who dehvered 
here, and elsewhere in Japan, his lecture on "The Prince of 
Peace." 

Kagoshima is surpassingly beautiful in its location, built 
around a sweep of shore and up the slope of the high hills. 
Out in the bay is the island on which is the great volcano 
Sakura-jima, whose recent eruption brought devastation to 
the island and large destruction of life. The ashes from this 
eruption were distributed over most of the Island of Kyushu. 
From the hills back of Kagoshima the city, bay, island, and 
this volcano present a scene of picturesqueness and grandeur. 
The volcano is 4,000 feet in height. It had not been in active 
eruption for one himdred years until recently. 

Kagoshima is the native city of Saigo, Togo, Marshal 
Oyama, and many of the great men of the nation, and feels a 
natural pride in its history. Its young men, who are larger 
in stature than farther north, walk with uplifted head and a 
manly stride and bearing. 

The first contact of this city with foreigners was at the 
mouth of carmon, when fifty years ago an English fleet sud- 
denly appeared in port to bombard the city because an Eng- 



FROM KAGOSHIMA TO NAGASAKI 179 

lishman had been cut down on the streets of Tokyo by the 
sword of a samuri, or soldier, from Kagoshima. But as late 
as 1877 the city stood out against an acknowledgment of the 
rights of foreigners. 

For five hundred years the ken acknowledged the rulership 
of the Shimalzu family. It was our privilege to be specially 
entertained in the gardens of Baron Shimalzu, a lineal de- 
scendant of the family, and some of the precious suits of armor 
belonging to the family were, as a mark of special courtesy, 
brought to the banquet hall at the reception given by Kago- 
shima leaders. 

This reception compared in elaborateness with any planned 
in Japan. To it were invited the Governor and his wife, the 
Mayor and his wife. Baron Shimalzu, Baron Narahara, mem- 
bers of the Chamber of Commerce, and prominent members of 
the bar. 

Reception rooms and banquet hall were ablaze with the 
flags of both nations. Two magnificent American and 
Japanese flags hung over the welcome archway. Flags were 
festooned to branches of trees. The designs on the lanterns 
represented the crossing of the two flags. The menus bore 
the imprint of these flags. Nearly 200 of the leaders of 
Kagoshima were there. The missionaries were guests of 
honor with us. No Hquor was served SLnywhere, which was 
a remarkable deference to the guests. 

The little Japanese Methodist minister, Mr. Yanigahara, 
after a brief conference vnth. the Mayor, asked the "blessing 
of the Lord God," as he expressed it, upon the meal, the first 
time this was ever done at such a fimction in Kagoshima, for 
the city is strongly Buddhist and Shintoist. 

The responses of our party to the words of welcome, and 
especially the address of Mr. Kinnear, seemed to be greatly 



i8o A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

appreciated, and were heartily applauded. " America " and 
the "Japanese National Anthem" were sung. An entertain- 
ment followed, with the Japanese flute, goto, bewa, and 
whistling with a leaf, the latter a feat peculiar to Kagoshima. 
Professor Roper played and Mr. and Mrs. Landes sang. A 
Japanese arose and called for three cheers for the Sunday 
School party, to which we responded with three ''Banzais." 

I had the opportunity of a call upon Governor Yamaguchi 
and had a long talk with him about Sunday School work in 
America. He urged that we develop such work in Kagoshima 
through the pastors, and manifested a deep interest in the 
products of the Sunday School in making individual character, 
and in community results. We have sent him several of the 
books of the World's Sunday School Conventions. Since the 
return of the party we have been saddened to know of the 
death of the Governor's son, but gladdened, too, in knowing 
that he died a Christian through the results of the visitation 
of Miss Finley and the Japanese pastor. 

The Sunday School rally on Sunday was a splendid dem- 
onstration of Simday School interest. 

Miss Finley reports some precious fruits of the visit of the 
party. The Mayor has made special inquiry as to the Sunday 
School. A class in the study of the life of Christ has been 
started after school hours by direction of the principal of 
one of the public schools, with fifty picked students, to see 
what the effect may be in character making. A Bible class, 
composed of hospital nurses, is being taught by Dr. Murata. 
The clerks in the city have a Bible class, and now have asked 
that their wives be given an opportunity to form a class. 

Upon our leaving the good people of Kagoshima, the 
Governor did us the great courtesy of personally accompany- 
ing us several stations. When he left us at the second station, 




READY FOR THE HILL CLIMB, NAGASAKI 

PUBLIC RECORDS OF GIFTS TO INSTITUTIONS 

A BURDEN BEARER, NAGASAKI 




STONE LANTERN AND TORII, TOKAIDO 

MR. HORACE E. COLEMAN 

Chairman Missionary Reception Committee 

ARCHED SACRED BRIDGE, KAMAKURA 



FROM KAGOSHIMA TO NAGASAKI i8i 

we shouted, "What's the matter with the Governor? He's 
all right!" 

Since the volcanic eruption, Mr. Heinz has cabled the 
sympathy of the party for the stricken people of Kagoshima 
in substantial form, for we have felt a personal attachment 
here, as in many other places in Japan, 

On the northward journey one group stopped at Kuma- 
moto, where a royal reception was given. This city has a 
wonderful old castle, and is the centre of some strong Christian 
work. The first audience was composed of the students of 
the Boys' School (Lutheran Mission). The party then went 
to the Leper Hospital — a sad spectacle, but a beautiful 
work " in His name." A big banquet and reception by the 
Governor, Mayor, business men, and Chamber of Commerce 
was given, followed by a mass meeting, at which there were 
900 present, mostly government school students. A workers' 
meeting of 250 and a children's meeting of 450 was also held. 

At Kumamoto several members of the party took the op- 
portunity of a climb of Mt. Aso, an active volcano. Suicides 
by despondent Japanese frequently occur at this volcano. 

Kumamoto is the home of the famous Kumamoto Band 
which under a tree, which still remains, pledged God and each 
other to promote Christianity in Japan. From this band came 
many of the strong present-day Christian leaders, including 
Dr. Kozake, the president of the S, S. Association of Japan. 

The Saga party was met at the station by Mr. Peeke, the 
cheery missionary of the Reformed Church. The Mayor, 
president of the Chamber of Commerce, and other officials, 
were at the station, and later called in person, and also the 
president of the Court. 

Eight meetings were planned for our day in Saga. Several 
of these were gatherings of students in the Commercial and 



i82 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Normal schools. The Mayor expressed special pleasure with 
the address to the Commercial students on foundation stones 
of character. 

Miss Kinnear, a college girl, told the girls of the Normal 
School of a day in a large Christian American College. The 
girls were so greatly impressed that the following Sunday 
thirty of them attended the Reformed Church to learn more 
about Christianity. 

The afternoon meeting, attended by the business men and 
leading citizens of Saga, was a remarkable one in its outpour- 
ing of numbers and in its intense interest. The Mayor pre- 
sided, and the messages were straight declarations of the 
sufficiency of the Bible and Christianity in building personal 
and national character. 

The banquet in the evening, at a beautiful restaurant, was 
attended by the Governor and other high officials and 
business men. The company of 150 sat on the floor in the 
form of a hollow square. Cushions were provided for the 
comfort of the guests. Japanese food was served on low 
tables by beautifully gowned geisha girls, who behaved very 
decorously. We declined, however, the suggestion that the 
girls dance for us, and this act strengthened the hands of the 
Christian women who are opposed to the geisha class. 

The speeches by the officials were elaborate. Specimens 
of the celebrated Arita pottery and boxes of cake were pre- 
sented to us by the manufacturers. Our powers of endurance 
as squatters upon Japanese mats were well tested. The 
fact that we did not take the sake, or rice wine, was an im- 
portant influence here. And sitting near the high officials 
we were able to put in some strong strokes for the Sunday 
School and religious education. The Governor had visited 
America and understood English very well. 










1.1 iU 



METHODIST GIRLS' SCHOOL, NAGASAKI 
LOADING COAL ON STEAMER, NAGASAKI 




FAREWELL TO TOUR PARTY, NAGASAKI 
OUTDOOR ATHLETICS. SAGA 



FROM KAGOSHIMA TO NAGASAKI 183 

On the rim to Nagasaki we stopped at the Arita factories 
by special invitation of the manufacturers, and saw the 
moulding and decoration of this substantial and wonderful 
ware, known for its blue ornamentation, and which is so 
widely used in America. The courtesy of the people was 
marked, the streets were decorated with the flags of the two 
nations in honor of our coming, and the military reception at 
the station by the column of Sunday School boys was espe- 
cially fine. 

We were all glad to get to Nagasaki, where we were to be 
for three days before sailing for Shanghai. A series of meet- 
ings was held at the fine Methodist Girls' School and other 
schools and churches. 

On the Friday of the party's presence at Nagasaki a large 
English warship entered the harbor. On Saturday morning 
some of the English officers of this vessel went over to the 
Methodist Girls' School, of which Miss Russell is the super- 
intendent, and requested to have a service for the benefit of the 
sailors in the chapel of the school. 

This request of course was granted, and between two and 
three hundred Union Jack sailor boys marched over from the 
landing about ten o'clock and filled the chapel of the school 

There was no minister, but Mr. Kinnear did the talking, 
and Mr. and Mrs. Landes sang. Dr. Schell of the Methodist 
Church, who was traveling in the Orient, happened in at the 
service, and made the opening prayer. Rev. Frank N. Scott, 
principal of the Methodist Boys' School at this place, which 
is one of the finest educational institutions in Japan, presided. 

Mr. Heinz rejoined the party at Nagasaki, coming by 
steamer to Nagasaki. He had been at Tokyo in the interest 
of a secretary for the Sunday School educational work in 
Japan, and to promote the final steps looking to the proper 



i84 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

backing of the World's Sunday School Convention at Tokyo, 
in 1916. He came in time to address the Sunday School 
rally at the Yoimg Men's Christian Association and was in- 
terpreted by Mr. Suganimo who had been of such splendid 
service to the party at Beppu and other places. The girls 
from the Methodist Girls' School sang " Shout the glad tid- 
ings, Messiah is King." From the Y. M. C. A. we marched to 
the jetty, from which the tender was to take us to the ship. 
The missionaries bade us farewell. We sang "God be with 
you," the children who lined the shores for thousands of feet, 
upon signal, shouted their "Banzais," and we moved from 
the shores of Japan, with memories that shall never fade, of 
its gracious people, its beautiful hospitality, and with a con- 
viction of Japan's great need of a spiritual power that should 
match its material and educational progress. 

Bishop M. C. Harris, of Japan and Korea, keenly interested 
in the party's coming, has written briefly his convictions as 
to the visit; 

"Your visits to Japan and Korea will ever be memorable. 
'Twas epoch-making, providential, life giving. The Hke of 
it has never before been seen. The grateful heart of Japan 
has been shown to these Americans — the lovers of children, 
and who care for the young tremendously." 



CHAPTER XX 
A TRIP TO THE PHILIPPINES 



CHAPTER XX 

A TRIP TO THE PHILIPPINES 

When one has come as far as Japan, the additional trip to 
the Philippines should, by all means, be included. And 
especially so in view of the small additional cost, and the 
fact that the steamers making the roimd trip from Nagasaki 
to Manila almost invariably stop at Hong Kong and Shanghai 
going or returning. And this means possibly the inclusion of 
Canton, only a night's steamer ride from Hong Kong, and 
Nanking, and the Yangtse Valley — Nanking being about six 
hours' ride from Shanghai, and on a good railroad. 

Our Philippine Island possessions are well worth a visit, in 
view of their scenic attraction and because of the splendid 
constructive work which Uncle Sam has been accompHshing 
there since that little event in Manila Harbor a few years ago. 
These islands are an illustration to the Orient of the fruits of 
a Christian civilization, and the experiment there is being 
studied and copied in the interest of the development of two 
thirds of the human race inhabiting these lands of the Far 
East whose shores are swept by the Pacific and Indian oceans. 
This is one of those providential and unforeseen results of 
the Spanish-American war. 

I have spoken of the work of the United States in the islands 
as an experiment. This does not apply to those humanitarian 
physical and educational plans which are being developed. 
It refers rather to the testing out of a people who have not as 

187 



i88 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

yet proved in any special way their capacity for a strong and 
sustained leadership, and I think it is the conviction of all 
who have studied the conditions on the ground that it will be 
some years before the government of the islands can be handed 
over to the Philippine people with an assurance that the well- 
laid plans of our government in the islands will be adequately 
conserved. There are temperamental difficulties to be con- 
sidered, a national ambition which needs the ballast of experi- 
ence, an eagerness to advance as the result of the educational 
opportunities given, and which requires the guidance of dis- 
ciplined minds. It is scarcely reasonable to expect that such 
leadership should be produced out of the conditions of the 
previous regime, and the incumbency of the United States 
has covered too brief a period to develop it, and the best of 
the Filipino leaders would regret any reversal of present prog- 
ress, by unwise assumption of authority, that would leave 
the new government the prey to strife and warring ambition. 
Reference has been made to the educational privileges now 
afforded the young people of the islands. One third of those 
of school age have now the opportunity of education as high 
as the university. More than a thousand American school 
teachers were utilized in the inception of the plan, and these 
are replaced by Filipino teachers as fast as the latter are 
educationally quahfied. When one remembers that educa- 
tional opportunities were withheld from the people for cen- 
turies by the Spanish, who were termed the Estrado, or 
gentlemen class, the greatness of the change can be appre- 
ciated. With this change has come the real danger that the 
young people, when educated, will consider themselves su- 
perior to work of hand labor, and this very result has come to 
pass in many cases. Often these young people look only for 
positions under the government, but the necessities of Uving 




SECOND NATIONAL S. S. CONVENTION OF THE PHILIPPINES 

GIRLS AT LINGAYAN METHODIST SCHOOL 

women's BIBLE TRAINING SCHOOL 




riLiPixo HOUSE or better class 

PROTESTANT PAR.A.DE, MEXICO, PHILIPPIiSiES 
A PHILIPPINE BRIDGE 



A TRIP TO THE PHILIPPINES 1S9 

compel labor, and the government has met the conditions 
by training students in carpentry, weaving, and other practical 
arts. The annual competitive manual exhibit of the Philip- 
pine schools has done much to promote industrial skill and 
to fit the young people of the islands for practical living. 

With the introduction of education, which is being ex- 
tended as rapidly as possible to include all of school age in the 
islands, has come a serious break with the superstitions that 
have been practised by the old church of the islands. The 
introduction of Protestantism, that came with the passing 
away of the Spanish rule, fostered a spirit of independent 
thinking. And this great body of educated young people, 
unable to give allegiance to the claims of the old religion, are 
facing the new century — a challenge and a call for spiritual 
guidance to the American Simday School leadership. 

That challenge has been partly answered. Three years 
ago, in response to the need, the World's Smiday School As- 
sociation sent the writer as a commissioner to the islands 
reinforced with strong letters from President Taft and men in 
high standing in America. The Filipino leaders and mis- 
sionaries united enthusiastically in a plan for the formation 
of a Philippine Islands Sunday School Union. Governor- 
General Forbes and Bishop Brent gave the encouragement of 
their presence and made addresses to the gathering of dele- 
gates from more than twenty provinces of the Philippines, 
and the new organization was launched at a meeting where 
2,000 were in attendance. A Filipino, Rev. Emiliano Zarco, 
was elected the first president; Rev. Jesse L. McLaughlin, 
secretary, and Rev. Harry Farmer, chairman of the Educa- 
tional Committee. Rev. James B. Rodgers, D. D., was made 
the representative upon the International Executive Com- 
mittee. 



190 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Headquarters were established in the building of the Metho- 
dist Publishing House. Institutes were held by the com- 
missioner, model Sunday School sessions conducted, and an 
exhibit of best things in Sunday School work shown. In the 
interval, Mr. McLaughlin, through the distribution of an 
attractive button of the Sunday School Union and by con- 
ventions and institutes, has greatly stimulated the growth 
of Simday School membership, which now numbers 36,000 
in 700 Simday Schools. 

But we have not as yet given you the opportunity of a 
personal visit to the islands. About four days out from Naga- 
saki you sight the shores of northern Luzon, luxuriously 
green. Those four days have brought you to the tropics, and 
if wise you have adjusted your clothing to the change and will 
be arrayed in flannel or white linen or pongee suiting. 

Passing the forts at Cavite, which Dewey stole by so 
quietly with his ships in the early morning, you enter a won- 
derful land-locked bay fifty miles in length, an ideal place for 
maneuvering a fleet. At the farther end of the bay is Manila. 
As you near the dock the tender brings to you special friends. 
The pier is lined with a "white-robed throng," not all of them, 
however, on their way to heaven. 

Of one thing you are thankful as you meet the customs 
ofl&cers, and that is that you are in a dependency of Uncle 
Sam, and the way is smoothed for your departure by that 
energetic, smiling "get there" McLaughlin, whose auto whirls 
you to your destination. You first pass through the Intra 
Mura, or inner city, within the walls of which the old Span- 
iards would shut themselves away from the diseases which 
consumed the people of the city. But the introduction of 
pure water from the mountains, a government ice plant, a 
$250,000 hospital, perfect in its appliances, and a complete 



A TRIP TO THE PHILIPPINES 191 

system of sanitation have so completely revised conditions 
that the death rate of Manila is now among the lowest in the 
world. 

Beyond the walls you pass the shore parkway, called the 
Lunetta. Part of this is made gromid, a great breathing space, 
where on evenings the populace comes to hear the playing of 
the famous Constabulary Band. This band is led by a negro. 
The band made a great reputation in its tour of the United 
States. 

You pass old cathedral buildings constructed in Spanish 
style, substantial business blocks, homes with extensive 
piazzas and surrounded by rich shrubbery and palms, the 
substantial Young Men's Christian Association buildings, and 
the splendid Government Normal School and college buildings. 

With the erection of the fine new hotel, Manila makes a 
rightful appeal as one of the most attractive spots in the world 
for the traveller. 

You will visit the Bihdid prison, where the prisoners learn 
to become artisans, and upon their return to the provinces 
from which they have come find such profitable occupation 
that they rarely return to the prison. And your heart will 
beat a little faster than usual as you stand on the observation 
platform commanding a view of the exercises of the prisoners, 
and at command the splendid prison band plays the " Star- 
Spangled Banner," while the heads of the prisoners are bared 
and their caps held to their left breasts, and you look up and 
see Old Glory waving at the prison mast, the pledge of a 
square deal and a fair chance to every one, despite race, color, 
and condition, who comes under its protection. 

If you can spend a week or two in the islands, you should 
take the steamer to the south and visit Iloilo and the educa- 
tional work of the Baptist and Presbyterian missions. The 



192 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Episcopal and Congregational mission, to the Moros, too, 
will repay visitation. A wealthy New York City lady has 
recently gone there to cooperate with Bishop Brent in bring- 
ing the Gospel to this warlike, backward tribe. 

You will want to visit Baguet, high among the moimtains 
of Luzon, north of Manila. A magnificent automobile road 
has been constructed from the railroad station to this moun- 
tain resort, to which in the heated season the government is 
transferred, and where missionaries find some relief from the 
oppression of the summer term. The scenery on this auto 
road is unusually impressive in its grandeur. 

At one of the places of northern Luzon — Vigan — Mr. 
McLaughlin, who is the agent of the American Bible Society 
as well as the secretary of the Sunday School Union, re- 
cently distributed several thousand Bibles in return for an 
admission fee to some Bible cinematograph pictures. The 
priests of the Catholic Church were aroused and opened a 
cinematograph show, requiring these very Bibles as an ad- 
mission fee. The people were then called to the pubUc 
square, and the Bibles publicly burned, but the result was 
the disposition by Mr. McLaughlin of several thousand more 
Bibles. This modern Ephesus Bible burning will make for 
the furtherance of the Gospel. 

The writer took part in a parade at Mexico, north of 
Manila, to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the introduction 
of Protestantism in that province. We were entertained at 
the home of a converted Filipino, who had turned his theatre 
into a Christian church. Several thousand took part in the 
parade, led by native bands, and beautiful banners inter- 
spersed the line of march. Bombs and firecrackers were ex- 
ploded as an evidence of the joy of the people. Two floats 
spoke their own story. One represented a great Bible seven 



A TRIP TO THE PHILIPPINES 193 

feet long by four feet thick, with a huge chain about it pad- 
locked. The other represented an open Bible, four young 
men, Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John, writing, in open books, 
the Gk)spels. A painting of the rising sun as a prophecy of 
the better day for the islands, under an open Bible, completed 
the lesson of the float. And from the windows and doors of 
hundreds of nipa (straw-thatched) shacks of the town of 
Mexico that day brown-faced boys and girls and men and 
women read the object story of the floats and caught the note 
of enthusiasm of the marchers, an enthusiasm undiminished 
by the clouds of fine dust raised from the roadway. 

The element of enthusiasm in the Filipino nature finds 
special expression in baseball, which has been introduced here 
by the American school teachers, and seconded by the mission- 
aries and the Y. M. C. A. In fact, China, Japan, and Korea 
have adopted this sport. Before the entrance of Uncle Sam 
cock-fighting was the great sport in the Philippines. Even 
now it is a common sight to see a bimch of Filipino men with 
their favorite rooster, betting on the merits of the birds, and 
all labor is often suspended in favor of these contests. But 
baseball is, with the younger men, taking the place of the 
cockpit. The boys play ball with great skill. They are 
natural athletes and their "rooting" knows no bounds. 

In the early part of 19 13 Rev. Alfred M. Williams, of Port- 
land, Oregon, spent a month in the Philippines as special 
delegate of the World's Simday School Association. He as- 
sisted in several conventions arranged by the PhiHppine 
Islands Sunday School Association and served the cause in 
other ways. Mr. Williams is the Presbyterian educational 
superintendent of Sunday School work on the Pacific coast. 
After finishing the survey of the Sunday School situation in 
the Philippines he spent several weeks with Rev. E, G. 



194 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Tewksbury, Sunday School Secretary for China, in work at 
Hong Kong, Canton, and about Shanghai. Following this, 
Mr. Williams joined our tour party in Japan for a few days. 
From his report of the condition and needs of Sunday School 
work in the Philippines, the following is quoted; 

*'Two hundred and seventy registered delegates attended 
the Manila convention, fifty-six of whom were pastors, and 
thirty-seven superintendents. A large number of the dele- 
gates were young people, many of whom are graduates of the 
best schools in the islands or students in the same. A con- 
vention was held in Candon, a city in the northern part of 
the Island of Luzon. This convention was attended by the 
Ilocano tribes. Eighty-five delegates were registered, but 
full 200 attended the several sessions. Many of the delegates 
walked to the convention, bringing their own rice. The con- 
vention for the southern islands was held at Iloilo, where for 
five days a large company thought and prayed together about 
the work of the Sunday School. Two men were present who 
had each walked 1 20 miles to attend this convention. 

"The missionaries are without exception Sunday School 
people. The schools of the several missions give courses in 
religious pedagogy and Sunday School management. Their 
faculties assist in institute work in provincial centres during 
vacation, and in some cases super\ase their students in doing 
Sunday School extension work in the provinces. The mis- 
sionary dormitory with its successful Bible class work is com- 
ing to be one of the prominent missionary methods in the 
islands. 

"While there is some excellent Sunday School work in the 
cities, the work out in the provinces is often very crude. It is 
a promising fact that the Filipino pastor has been trained for 
Sunday School leadership. There is need for improved les- 
son courses and for other Sunday School requisites. There 
should be published in every dialect a simple manual of 
organization. Extensive and appreciated use is made of 
surplus material sent from the Sunday Schools of America." 



A TRIP TO THE PHILIPPINES 195 

From Manila it is two days by steamer to Hong Kong, where 
the Enghsh are in control. The city is built in terraces up 
the side of "The Peak." From the fort on the top one of the 
world's greatest panoramas of city, harbor, and shipping is 
seen. At Hong Kong Mr. WiUiams and Mr. Tewksbury held 
important meetings. 

A night ride by steamer brings one to Canton with its 
teeming millions. Here are located the Canton Christian 
University, other important educational institutions, hos- 
pitals, and Christian missions. A temple of 500 idols will 
claim a visit. A two days' institute was held by Mr. Williams 
and Mr. Tewksbury. Following these meetings, Mr. Wil- 
liams returned to Hong Kong and proceeded to Shanghai . He 
visited the work in Nanking and Hangchow and then joined 
the tour party in Japan. 



CHAPTER XXI 
THE NEW CHINA 



CHAPTER XXI 

THE NEW CHINA* 

Political affairs were moving rapidly in China when we 
arrived, and they are still moving there in the same manner. 
You must read the latest telegraphic reports regarding China 
or you are liable to be reading ancient history. There never 
was a country making such gigantic strides toward western 
civilization as China is making to-day; but it has some dis- 
tance to go, and it will therefore be a long time before it is 
abreast of some of the nations of the Orient. 

There is no question but that the Chinese were a great 
people, and they have had a wonderful national existence. 
While other nations came into existence, ran their course, and 
disappeared forever, the old Chinese Empire continued to 
flourish for ages. 

The origin of the great Chinese Empire is lost in antiquity, 
but we know that away back before the days of Moses there 
lived a people in the broad plains and valleys of China out of 
which grew the Chinese Empire. As we reached China but 
a little time after the new ship of state had been launched, 
we felt that we were standing by the newly made tomb of a 
mighty empire, one which had served well its day and genera- 
tion,butwhich in the march of time hadoutlived its usefulness. 

We looked at the palace in the Forbidden City in which 
Prince Pi e Yi, the last ruler of the Chinese Empire, is con- 

*Written by Mr. James W. Kinnear. 

199 



200 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

fined. He was bom Feb. ii, 1906. He succeeded to the 
throne with title Hsuan Fung, Nov. 14, 1908 and abdicated 
Feb. 12, 1912. Though provided with ample means to main- 
tain him in accordance with his former rank, he is nothing 
more than a prisoner. It was hard to realize that the great 
Chinese Empire, which outranked in age all other nations, was 
now an institution of the past. Truly, time is a great leveler 
of all human creations. 

While still in Korea we were startled and delighted when we 
read the call of the cabinet of the new nation for the prayers 
of all Christian people in behalf of the new RepubHc of China. 
We were startled because of this unusual proceeding for an 
oriental country, and delighted because of what such a re- 
quest meant to the Christian world. 

The following is a copy of the resolution requesting the 
prayers of all Christian people adopted by the cabinet of the 
new Chinese Government, approved by its provisional Presi- 
dent, Yuan Shih-Kai, and telegraphed by the Chinese Gov- 
ernment to all provincial governors and other high officials 
within whose jurisdiction there were Christian conrnaimities, 
and also to all leaders of Christian churches in China, both 
Catholic and Protestant: 

"Prayer is requested for the National Assembly, now in 
session, for the newly established government, for the Presi- 
dent yet to be elected, for the constitution of the Republic, 
that the Chinese Government may be recognized by the 
Powers, that peace may reign within our country, that strong, 
virtuous men may be elected to office, and that the Govern- 
ment may be established upon a strong foundation. Upon 
receipt of this telegram you are requested to notify all 
Christian Churches in your province that April 27th has 
been set aside as a day of prayer for the nation. Let all 
take part." 



THE NEW CHINA 201 

It was thought by some that this request for the prayers of 
the Christian people was a political move on the part of 
designing poUticians, but to us it had the right ring, and we 
were assured by many of our missionary friends in China that 
this request for prayer was genuine and had its inception 
with the Christian members of the cabinet. 

Bishop J. W. Bashford, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, 
who has been located at Peking, China, for many years, told 
us that a committee representing the officials of the new gov- 
ernment called upon him and asked his opinion as to the 
adoption of the Christian religion as the state religion of the 
new republic. After a few days' consideration the Bishop 
replied that in his opinion it would be a great mistake to take 
such an action. He called their attention to the fact that 
there was only a handful of Christians in China compared to 
the great non- Christian masses of Chinese, and suggested 
that the new constitution should merely provide that every 
person within the Republic of China should have the right to 
worship God according to the dictates of his own conscience. 
We understand this course was finally agreed upon. 

The new RepubHc of China is a government of young men. 
As we looked down from the galleries upon the house and 
senate of the national assembly, we noticed that the members 
were nearly all young men and that a majority of them had 
lost their queues and were dressed in American costume. 
Many of the leaders in both houses are young men who were 
educated in America, and the new government seems to be 
patterned largely after the American Republic. 

The Hon. C. T. Wang, who was vice-chairman of the 
Senate at the time we were in China, is an earnest Christian, 
a young man who was educated in this country, and for a 
period of years was a travelling secretary of the Young 



202 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Men's Christian Association. As such he travelled extensively 
throughout the United States, and judging from the remark- 
able address he delivered at a dinner given to our commission 
in the city of Peking, he had breathed in the spirit of our 
American institutions. 

We were told by some of the Chinese officials that the 
constitution of the new republic would likely provide for 
both an educational and a property requirement for those 
who were to exercise the right of siiffrage, and also that it 
was contemplated to provide that the president of the Chinese 
Republic should be eligible but to one term of ofiice of six 
years' duration. 

At the time we were there the provisional national assembly 
was wrestling with the preparation of the constitution of the 
new republic; but little headway was being made, owing to 
the fact that the general assembly and the provisional presi- 
dent, Yuan Shih-Kai, were somewhat at loggerheads. 

We were received by the provisional president, Yuan Shih- 
Kai, who has since been elected President of the Republic of 
China in the most simple and democratic manner. He is a 
man who has had great experience as a soldier and no little 
experience as a statesman under the old Chinese regime. He 
impressed us all as being a strong character, and certainly 
such a personage is needed to hold together the great Chinese 
people during their transformation from an imlimited mon- 
archy to a democracy. 

President Yuan Shih-Kai seemed to be holding the reins 
of the government with a strong hand. As our party sailed 
up the Yangtse River we passed a body of Yuan Shih-Kai 's 
soldiers who were camping quietly across the river from a 
province which was disposed to repudiate the authority of 
the new republic, but which has since become loyal to it. 



THE NEW CHINA 203 

The following story was related to us regarding President 
Yuan Shih-Kai. We cannot, however, vouch for its authen- 
ticity. It is said that some one made the remark to the 
new President that with his military prowess he was now in a 
position to become a king. Quickly Yuan Shih-Kai replied, 
"I would rather be a Washington than a Napoleon." 

One of the great problems in China at the present time, as 
it appears to the casual observer, is to convince the leaders 
that the reconstructions of China must be brought about 
by a steady, rather than a precipitous, advance. 

Some of the leaders of the new government of China are the 
product of western learning, some have come in contact with 
the western world in other ways, but all of them have caught 
the trend and spirit of western institutions. These men and 
their followers seem determined that New China shall forth- 
with adopt all that western civilization has to offer. Nat- 
urally Old China holds back, as her education, training, and 
ideals are so different from those of the West. 

The leaders of the New China must be held in check and 
be content to pause occasionally imtil Old China has an op- 
portiuiity to draw a long breath and become adjusted to the 
advanced steps already taken. No forced reconstruction of 
China in advance of the will and ideals of the people can be 
permanent. 

We were not surprised to hear that President Yuan Shih- 
Kai had issued an edict favoring Confucianism, for the reason 
that the great masses of Chinese are believers in Confucius, 
and his code of morals and philosophy is the only code they 
know anything about. It, therefore, behooves the president, 
and the general assembly of the new repubHc as well, during 
the years of reconstruction, to walk very circumspectly and 
carefully between the old China and the new. 



204 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

China is larger than the United States and our great Ter- 
ritory Alaska combined. This vast country is divided into 
five provinces, occupied by the five races of the Chinese 
people, to wit, Manchuria, Thibet, Turkestan, Mongolia, and 
China. The flag of the new republic is composed of five 
stripes of different colors, each stripe representing one of the 
races above named . 

The red represents the province of China, the yellow Mon- 
golia, the blue Manchuria, the white Thibet, and the black 
Turkestan. These five colors blend beautifully together, 
representing the Republic of China. There is still some fear 
that finally the province of Manchuria may be lost to the 
new republic. What the outcome will be in this regard time 
alone will reveal. 

The great mineral resources of China are practically un- 
touched, largely due, first, to the fact that the old Chinese 
superstitious idea that evil spirits come out of openings made 
in the ground has prevented mining operations, and, second, 
to the lack of means of transportation. 

There are yet but few railroads constructed in China. The 
great Yangtse River is the main thoroughfare into the interior, 
and has been for ages. It is wide and deep enough to allow 
large ocean steamers to navigate safely up the river six hun- 
dred miles to the city of Hankow. Smaller steamers are able, 
to go one thousand miles farther up the river. 

The Chinese have a very kindly feeling for all Americans. 
They believe, and with reason, that America has rendered 
their country great assistance in maintaining the integrity 
of its territory, as well as in many other ways. 

We give below, almost in full, an address delivered by 
the editor of Chinese Progress, of Shanghai, to our com- 
mission in the city of Shanghai, for the purpose of showing 



THE NEW CHINA 205 

the high esteem in which American citizens are held by the 

Chinese: 

" China is often misrepresented and misunderstood in many 
ways by those who never had the chance of visiting the coun- 
try. To most of them she is but an uncivilized or half- 
civilized country, and her people as a whole are no better 
than a big gathering of laundry cooHes and rat eaters. How- 
ever, in spite of the fact that China differs in many ways from 
the western nations, she has a civilization of her own — a 
civilization of which we as Chinese are very proud — and 
so are those foreign friends who have come to know it and 
learned to appreciate it more and more. Yoiu: visit, dear 
friends, wiU, therefore, not only help to dismiss such false 
conceptions concerning our nation, but also to establish a 
better understanding and a stronger relationship between the 
two great republics of the West and the East. 

"But we are not here to welcome you for this reason alone. 
We want to extend to you our heartiest welcome because you 
are citizens of the United States, the country that is most 
friendly to us among all the nations. For your nation stands 
for righteousness and justice, and has set an example to the 
world of a real, popular government. Your people and govern- 
ment have repeatedly come to our help when we were in great 
crises and need. The returning of the Boxer Indemnity fund 
to us for educational purposes, and the recent withdrawal of 
your share from the sextuple loan group, are but a few of the 
kind deeds your government has done for us, not to mention 
the good work done by the hundreds of your missionaries in 
this land in evangelizing the nation and uplifting the people. 
Year before last, when we were struggling hard for freedom 
and liberty, your people showed us greatest sympathy, and 
by urging the other powers not to intervene greatly helped 
the success of the revolution. 

"Moreover, we are here, dear friends, to welcome you be- 
cause you are the representatives of the World's Sunday School 
Association. The Sunday School is an institution which 
holds the religious education of the younger generations as 



2o6 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

the fundamental basis in building up a strong, righteous, and 
peaceful nation. 

"The problem of moral education had never such an im- 
portant place in China as it has to-day. The old ethical 
teachings of Confucius and many others are greatly revolu- 
tionized by recent changes, and the new moral standards are 
not yet established. It is a kind of moral unrest. Are we 
going to leave our younger generation without moral training 
and religious education and allow the country to be demor- 
alized? Certainly not. The success of a popular govern- 
ment is based entirely upon the ability of self-control in the 
individual, and the power of self-control in the people must 
be trained when they are young. The Sunday School is the 
ideal means for filling this gap. However, the Sunday School 
work in China is still in its infancy, and it is just now opening 
to a new epoch. This large audience before you now wilJ 
give you some idea of the great task before us and the pos- 
sibilities of this work in China. For there are thousands 
of children in this country who are not reached by the Sunday 
School workers and are left wandering around like sheep with- 
out a shepherd. Although your visit in China this time is 
going to be a short one, yet your presence and your zeal and 
success in Sunday School work will be an inspiration to us, 
and your valuable suggestions will be a great help to the work 
here. How we wish you could stay a little longer in order 
that you might help us in working out the various problems 
which are confronting us now. But as you are en route to 
Switzerland with an important mission we have for the pres- 
ent to be satisfied with this short visit. Later on we hope 
you will come to China again." 

At Shanghai we had the pleasure of meeting that remark- 
able Chinese statesman, the Honorable Wu Ting Fang, for- 
merly ambassador to the United States. In an address at a 
little dinner which we attended in the city of Shanghai he out- 
lined his moral belief, and referring to Christian education, 
said : "I wish you could convert every young Chinese in this 



THE NEW CHINA 207 

republic to Christianity. We need it." His viewpoint was 
that of a statesman looking to the best interests of the nation. 

The basis of entrance into civil service under the regime of 
the old empire was a knowledge of Confucian classics. Ap- 
plicants were required to pass a most rigid examination, 
during which they were confined in stalls for days at a time 
and subsisted on rice and water. It is said that some appli- 
cants tried over and over again for a period of fifty years to 
pass this examination without success. 

This old system of education has passed away. The rows 
of examination stalls in which students were confined while 
undergoing examinations belong now to the past; they have 
nearly all been torn down, and a new era of education has 
dawned on China. A modern system of practical education 
is being installed for both men and women. If the ignorance 
and superstition of the masses are to be overcome, it must be 
brought about through the education of the youth. The 
people are the greatest asset of any nation, but the value of 
the asset depends upon the intelligence and character of the 
people. Now that China has joined the ranks of self-govern- 
ing people, what she needs most is Christian education. In 
addition to a public school system China needs the modern 
Sunday School as an auxihary force to the direct evangelistic 
work. 

While most western nations have missions in China, some- 
how the Orient as a whole looks more to America for help 
along the lines of Christian education than to any other 
country. In some way the spiritual condition in America 
has an immediate effect upon the people of the Orient. When 
the spiritual thermometer rises in America, it rises in the 
Orient. Should it fall in America, it will fall in the Orient. 
It behooves us then to keep the fires burning brightly upon 



2o8 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

the altars of this country, and in so doing we may feel sure 
that we are having a mighty influence upon the nations of the 
East. 

The doors of China are now open to Christian education, 
but to evangelize and Christianize the masses of China would 
seem on the surface an endless undertaking. One cannot, 
however, measure the progress of Christian education by 
statistics. There is a dynamic force in Christianity, and coun- 
tries which to-day are making but slow spiritual growth may 
to-morrow be convulsed with spiritual energy, and verily a 
nation may be born in a day. 

The new Republic of China, with its magnificent country 
and vast resources, has great possibilities. When Christian 
education once lays hold of the hearts of its citizens it needs 
no prophetic eye to see that out of the ruins of the old Chinese 
Empire will come forth a mighty nation, one that will equal, 
if it does not excel, any nation of the western world. 



CHAPTER XXII 
A JOURNEY TO FOOCHOW 



CHAPTER XXII 

A JOURNEY TO FOOCHOW 

While the main party was en route to Shanghai, Mrs. 
Emaroy J. Smith and her son Mr, Kenneth Smith were in the 
important city of Foochow, China. The fascinating story of 
this trip, from the pen of Mrs. Smith, follows: 

Now comes the part of our journey that we dislike most — 
embarking in the small vessel Hcean of the China Merchant 
Line en route to Foochow. We are glad to find aboard Miss 
Helen Crane, our former fellow-passenger of the Tenyo, who 
sat next us at table during our voyage across the Pacific. 
Miss Crane, accompanied by Miss Wells of Shanghai, is going 
to Foochow to open work for the Y. W. C. A., in response to 
the awakening caused by the Mott meetings, during which six 
hundred young women had signed cards expressing their 
desire to study the Bible and inquire into Christianity. How 
fortunate they are to have Miss Crane — bright, attractive, 
versatile, a graduate of Bryn Mawr — respond to that call 
for service! Could her life be better invested than answering 
this call from the Orient where she will seek to establish 
Christian ideals for the girls of China? 

English missionaries were driven out of Foochow forty 
years ago. Less than twenty years ago eleven missionaries 
laid down their lives as martyrs; now there are 12,000 students 
in modern colleges. 

Miss Crane and Miss Wells, with two young Germans in 
Chinese mail service, made up our first-class passenger list. 
We were told there were 150 second-class passengers below 
us, but only knew this from the fumes of opium that escaped 

211 



212 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

from below. The weather was unfavorable. We were shut 
in by a dense fog that the captain said was worse than any- 
thing he had known for fifteen years on the China coast. 
Without wireless telegraphy or the modern equipment of the 
larger vessels to aid us in an emergency, we were relieved when 
the fog lifted and we were able to make the mouth of the 
River Min going in with the tide. A party of friends, among 
whom were Mr. and Mrs. George Hubbard, missionaries of the 
American Board, Miss Martha Wiley, and Miss Deahl, came 
out in a launch to meet us. 

We were surroimded as soon as our vessel anchored with 
numberless sampans propelled with long oars by Chinese 
women. There was great confusion, all of them shouting and 
struggling for first place next our vessel, in order to secure 
cargo or passengers. We stepped in one at the risk of our 
lives. A slender, sinewy Chinese woman, dressed in blue, 
her black hair coiled in the neck and adorned by a bright 
flower, stood erect in bow of boat and pushed us away, with 
her long pole, from the other boats knocking our sides. She 
then began to use the pole in the water, her strong body sway- 
ing back and forth in graceful motion. Her movements 
reminded us for a moment of the Venetian gondolier, but 
there the likeness ended. Our boat-woman's mother was 
pushing paddle in stern of boat, with grandchildren scram- 
bling about her. On these boats children are born, live, and 
die, sometimes four generations living together. 

What is this large, stately looking vessel coming alongside 
us, with large sails wide-spread? On its bow are painted in 
colors two big eyes. This we are told is a "Ningpo Junk." 
Our boat-woman now works swiftly, taking a long pole on the 
end of which is a hook; she fastens it securely to the side of 
this passing ship, and thus we are towed to the landing at 
Foochow City. 

Here excitement reigns supreme. There is much shouting 
and confusion. One wonders how they are to be extricated 
from it all. We pass from our sampan to another craft and 
still another before the wharf can be reached. Miss Wiley 
alights to find cooHes and sedan chairs. She shouts loudly 




PASTOR HSU CAIK HANG, FOOCHOW 

GIRLS AT MR. CHANG 'S PARTY, SHANGHAI 

UNDER A CHINESE AREOR, EOOCHOW 





CHRISTIAN HERALD ORPHANAGE, FOOCHOW 

BOYS OF INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, BEACON HILL FARM, FOOCHOW 

STARVING MA.NCHU SOLDIERS AT SAME FARM 



A JOURNEY TO FOOCHOW 213 

in Chinese to keep the party together, and finally we make our 
way up South Street. We can never forget that memorable 
ride of nearly four miles in our sedan chairs. 

Now we are seeing China. Shanghai was not China. Here 
is the narrow street, irregularly paved with stones, swarming 
and seething with Chinese of all classes. Here is the field 
woman, her hair decorated with silver pins, and large silver 
rings in her ears. From the ends of a pole carried over her 
shoulder are suspended heavy buckets. As she passes, you 
are aware of unpleasant odors and wish you had brought your 
smelling salts. You discover she is the sewerage channel 
for conducting refuse from city to field. 

Old Chinese women with bound feet are sitting in the door- 
ways; dirty, half-clad children play in the streets. A stream 
of sedan chairs shouldered by cooHes is constantly passing. 
Sometimes the occupant of these chairs is a Chinese lady 
belonging to the official class, sometimes a merchant, or it 
may be a European. The coolies constantly shift the heavy 
poles from one shoulder to the other. We notice there are 
deep furrows in their shoulders. There are also deep lines 
upon their faces that indicate the hard physical toil they are 
daily subjected to. Their muscles rise in great ridges on 
limbs and arms, suggesting the strain to which they have been 
put. As they travel over the rough stone pavement, they 
shout as they pass to open up the congested street. We pass 
the fish-market, the open shop where Chinese artisans are 
working on silver and hammered brass, lacquer, and em- 
broidery. 

We were not sorry to arrive at the American Board Com- 
pound — we enter a court leading to the house of our lady 
missionaries. It is bright with flowers, and presents an in- 
viting and attractive picture, in strong contrast to the noise 
and the motley throng we leave in the busy street. Here we 
were made most comfortable and very hospitably entertained 
during our sojourn in Foochow. 

One day we visited the Christian Herald Orphanage, where 
we took pictures of the boys working in the garden. The young 
man who has charge of the garden gave me the following list 



214 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

of vegetables that the boys raised: watercress, red spinach, 
green peas, long bean, snake gourd, sword bean, corn, egg- 
plant, calabash, onion, leeks, pumpkin. Pastor Hang, of 
Foochow, is at the left of picture, and the boy, holding bouquet 
of flowers that were later presented to us, we were told, had 
already shown a very marked tendency for raising flowers and 
vegetables. 

A special program was prepared for us here, the children 
speaking pieces and singing songs. We were asked to take 
seats on the platform and to make a speech. We gave them 
some words of greeting from children of the United States, and 
told them how American children loved to sing the same songs, 
study the same Bible, and to work and play as they do. 

The day that stands out above all others as affording the 
purest, richest enjoyment while in Foochow, was the day 
spent at Sharp Peake. Mr. and Mrs. George Hubbard, Mr. 
Miner, head of the Methodist Boys' Academy, Miss Wiley, 
and Miss Deahl, Kenneth, and myself, with Mr. Ding, an 
earnest young Chinese, who has charge of industrial work in 
Foochow, make up our party. 

Early in the morning we go aboard our steam launch, which 
we have chartered for the day, and sail up the beautiful Min 
River. We pass mountainous islands. From the shore rise 
towering terraced cliffs, which have been compared to those 
of the Rhine. The Min compares not only with the pictu- 
resque beauty of the Rhine, but has as well the charm gathered 
from the past of its own traditions. There stands a tower 
erected by a wife to welcome back her husband from a long 
voyage, but, when he saw the strange mark, he concluded he 
had mistaken the estuary, and sailed away never to return. 
We pass the old arsenal, partly destroyed by the French fleet. 

We land at a small fishing village on the shores of Sharp 
Peake Island. Our coolie carries on his shoulder the huge 
lunch baskets generously provided by our kind and thoughtful 
Mrs. Hubbard, who has been unfailing in her attention since 
our arrival. The people of the village gather curiously about 
us as we land, but most of them, especially the women 
and children, ran frightened away when the kodak was 



A JOURNEY TO FOOCHOW 215 

pointed toward them, so there was left in our picture only the 
members of our party, our coolie carrying the lunch baskets, 
and a few boatmen. 

We climb up the hill, the sides of which are planted with 
young pine trees and terraced with growing crops. Some one 
has been working here to beautify this hill. On reaching the 
top we view a group of workmen, starving Manchu soldiers 
and boys sent up from the city by Miss Emily Hartwell. Now 
that the Manchu dynasty has been overthrown, their stipend 
has been withdrawn by the government. Thousands of 
these men, who have no trades and no means of earning a 
Uving, are facing starvation. 

We find a substantial cottage at the top of the hill. At the 
entrance is gathered a group of fine Chinese boys, who have 
led their goats up for our inspection. Miss Hartwell has 
discovered that Sharp Peake lends itself well to goat raising, 
that the goats will not only browse over the hills, taking 
care of themselves, but furnish milk as well. Another boy 
has brought his ducklings. Boys in China love pets as well 
as American boys. They love to tend and feed and watch 
them grow. We are now carried in sedan chairs up Beacon 
Hill. Here a wonderful view is obtained of both sea and 
river. We look across the valley — one hill is occupied by a 
telegraph station, one by Anghcan, one by Methodist, and 
one by Congregational sanitariums. These are resorts where 
the tired, worn, or sick missionaries may come from the city 
into this fresh mountain and sea air to recuperate from their 
arduous labors. 

At the top of Beacon Hill are the remains of an ancient 
landmark, an old stone structure, upon which the beacon 
fires were lighted, now superseded by the telegraph. At the 
time of our visit the workmen had been borrowing stone from 
this structure to work into the foundation of the new Mor- 
rison cottage. When our lady missionary discovered this, 
she was greatly disturbed that one of those historic stones 
should be displaced. She immediately informed the man in 
charge that no pay would be forthcoming until all the stones 
had been carefiilly replaced. From Beacon Hill we travelled 



2i6 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

in our chairs up and down the mountainsides to the American 
Board Sanitarium. This is arranged to afford living accom- 
modations for several families during the summer. It was 
vacant now and we took possession of one apartment, where 
we spread the table with the appetizing contents of our 
bounteous baskets. 

One evening we went to the new Manchu Church in the 
Tartar quarter. We foimd it filled with men, women, and 
children expectantly awaiting our arrival. There were 
special decorations with the word "Welcome" over the plat- 
form. Some young men sang the hymn "Blessed be His 
Name" — having committed it in English for this occasion. 
The primary children sang several songs accompanied on the 
organ by their teacher. The young Chinese pastor spoke 
some ardent words of greeting and welcome, to which we 
responded. It was a beautiful sight to see the eager, atten- 
tive faces of the audience. We were told the people were 
flocking here since the old restrictions have been removed 
which segregated them. They were formerly allowed no 
association with Chinese or foreigners. After the meeting 
the young men had provided cakes and sweetmeats for us, 
which were arranged on a small table decorated with candle- 
sticks, flowers, etc. 

We visited the East Gate Industrial School, where we 
found Mr. Ding Bing Yeng in charge. We went into a small 
room adjoining his office, where on a bed in the corner lay the 
old woman who had picked him up as a waif and adopted 
him when a lad. She was a pitiful looking object, with sight- 
less eyes, and lay here day after day praying to die. We were 
told that often at night Mr. Ding was kept awake by the 
upbraiding of this sick, repulsive looking old lady. She often 
complained of his abusing her, but he ministered to her ten- 
derly and patiently, expressing a very beautiful Christian 
spirit. 

We saw the women, men, and boys busily working at their 
looms weaving cloth, braid, rugs, etc. Here were rescued 
girls who had been sold as slaves by husbands and fathers. 
One young girl sat spinning with a baby in her lap. Her 



A JOURNEY TO FOOCHOW 217 

husband had sold her to the Hunan soldiers. She had cut 
ofif her hair, believing they would not want her if she was thus 
disfigured. 

In the afternoon we went to the Hartwell Memorial Church, 
where there were gathered about 350 Bible women and day 
school pupils. There was an address by the pastor; the 
children sang songs; two earnest talks were given by Chinese 
women, to which I was invited to respond. After the meeting 
we went in to see the girls' day school and partake of refresh- 
ments that had been provided. 

A dinner was given in our honor that evening. Mr. Beard, 
president of Foochow College, with some of his teachers and 
students, was present. This was a real Chinese feast. The 
dishes consisted of a great variety of courses, among which 
were clams, mussels, snails, shark's fins (a rare and expen- 
sive delicacy), pigeons' eggs, meat dumplings, stewed biba, 
orange soup, the latter served last, and many other delectable 
dishes too numerous to mention. 

Having long known of Dr. Kinnear's work, we were glad 
of the opportunity of visiting his new hospital. We saw him 
treating the eyes of a procession of poor Chinese men. One 
man lay on a cot with bandaged eyes, having just gone through 
an operation for the removal of cataracts, a practical demon- 
stration of the restoration of sight to the bhnd. We saw a 
young man with a shoulder cut open, the doctor having just 
removed a dead bone. It was hard to believe this fine build- 
ing could have been built for $8,000. 

One day we were entertained by Mrs. Sites for tiflSn, Mr. 
Sites showing us through the fine buildings of the Methodist 
College. An English lady. Miss Crump, was also a guest, 
and later showed us her lace industry, a very unique work she 
has developed, teaching many of the wives of coolies lace- 
work, and at the same time to read and study the Bible. She 
has in connection with this a room fitted up as a chapel where 
religious services are held every Sunday morning. 

We enjoyed a call upon Miss Garretson, principal of the 
Girls' School at Ponasong. This school has a fine, intelligent 
body of students. We were shown through the girls' dor- 



2i8 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

mitories, and then taken to the roof of the building, where a 
far-reaching view is obtained of the surrounding landscape. 
One observes how the high places about the city have been 
occupied by Christian work. We look in one direction and 
see the Alethodist School building rising from Nantei Island; 
in the opposite direction rises Foochow College, marked by the 
White Pagoda. We know that from these colleges will come 
forth men and women who will be the future leaders of China. 
They will receive in these Christian institutions of learning 
ideals and visions which will help them to uplift the oppressed 
of their own people. 



CHAPTER XXIII 
A SHANGHAI DEMONSTRATION 




v.-j.:m:^ 



YUAN SniTT-KAI, PRESIDENT CHINESE REPUBLIC 




SUNDAY SCHOOL FIEID DAY, SHANGHAI 
INDOOR MEETING, FIELD DAY, SHANGHAI 



CHAPTER XXIII 

A SHANGHAI DEMONSTRATION 

Our trip of two days from Nagasaki, Japan, to Shanghai, 
was made on quiet seas, and we were glad once more to be on 
shipboard to compare notes and get a much-needed rest. 
The yellow character of the water as we neared China ap- 
prised us that we were in the long tongue of the Yangtse- 
Kiang River, thrust loo miles out into the China Sea. We 
dropped anchor at the bar in the evening, waiting for the 
rising of the tide to slip over into the river. By ii o'clock 
we have passed the splendid Bund of the several foreign con- 
cessions, Uned with massive buildings, and the tender ties 
up to the dock. Friends of other years are here to greet us, 
and the jinrikisha and tram cars take us to our destination. 
It seems hard to realize that we are in China, the giant of 
which Bizmarck said, *'Let sleeping dogs lie," and after the 
sleep of thousands of years, China is stretching itself, is 
gradually discovering itself, its strength and resources, and 
for the next century will be the most interesting country 
in the world. When one thinks of how China has been deci- 
mated by wars, plagues, and bad sanitation, how babies have 
been dying off in myriads because of poor care, and done 
away with because they were girls, and that yet 400,000,000 
of Chinese are left, we wonder what the China of to-morrow 
will be when cleaned up, educated, and made a Christian 
nation. It may some day constitute one third of the human 



222 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

race, and a third with the virility and quaUties that will domi- 
nate the weaker races. 

Just before our landing at Shanghai America had recog- 
nized the Chinese Republic. This step was one that brought 
great joy to China, and everywhere we went the enthusiasm 
was great. This recognition, following the many evidences 
of America's interest in China, such as the return of the Boxer 
Indemnity money by Secretary Hay, and the Famine Relief 
work from America, gives America a great chance in the 
reconstruction of China. The Chinese, who are naturally 
practical and suspicious of motive, see that America is un- 
selfish in its interest in China. The fact of the withdrawal 
of America from the six-power loan has given the Chinese 
increased confidence in America, for the loan was not popular 
in China. 

One of the first to greet us on the tender as we left the ship 
was Rev. E. G. Tewksbury, the genial and active secretary 
of the Sunday School Union of China. For weeks Mr. 
Tewksbury had been planning for the party's coming, and 
had arranged a schedule including Shanghai, Hangchow, 
Foochow, Soochow, Nanking, Kiukiang, Wuhu, Hankow, 
Tsinanfu, Pekin, Tientsin, and Mukden. For these cities 
a Tri-Educational plan had been arranged, including a day 
of sports for the Sunday Schools (an entirely new feature for 
China), ocular demonstrations of the "Sunday School of 
Yesterday" and the "Sunday School of To-morrow," and 
the mass-meeting idea. 

For these series of meetings the general theme was " The 
Exaltation of the Word of God." Thousands of copies in 
Chinese of President Wilson's address on "The Word of God" 
were distributed at the meetings. 

Under Mr. Tewksbury's guidance, with the help of the 



A SHANGHAI DEMONSTRATION 223 

World's Sunday School Association, it may be of interest to 
know that a library of choice Sunday School books has been 
translated into Chinese, a series of attractive graded lessons 
developed, and a teacher training course promoted, and the 
ideals and methods of the Sunday School vastly improved. 

The Chinese Chamber of Commerce gave our party a tiffin 
and entertainment upon our arrival. The Sze Yue Gardens, in 
which this function was held, were attractively decorated with 
Chinese and American flags. 

The banquet was Chinese in character: 

Potage of bird's nest with pigeons' eggs 

Boiled samli fish 

Fried shrimp and green peas 

Broiled shark's fins 
Fried tripes and Uvers of fowl 

Spring chicken and ham 

Roast goose with pancakes 

Cherry pie 

Cheese 

Desserts — Coffee and tea 

The Chinese jugglers entertained us with some wonderful 
feats. The speech by Wu Ting Fang, ex-Minister to Wash- 
ington for many years, was cordial, and he urged us to do all 
we could to Christianize China. Mrs. Hotchkiss read an 
original song poem on America and China set to "America." 
The men of the chamber were dignified, fine-looking Chinese of 
prominence, who are the leaders of the industrial and com- 
mercial life of Shanghai. 

Shanghai is a mixture of the foreign and Chinese. There 
are splendid buildings, foreign residences set in shrubbery, 
gardens, apartment houses, hospitals, orphanages, and schools. 
The great French Catholic monastery, where fine lace is made, 



2Q4 



A l\H"R OF TUK OR IF NT 



is one of [\\c foatiiros ol iutmost hcMo. as woll as the St. John's 
ruivoi"sity, one of China's tinost C^hristian aliuational in- 
stitutions. 

IVo Mt. llolyoko t'oUoi^c gills, who wore seniors togotl\cr 




a IVnv \. ,.\ have charge of a C^hristian soluxM here. aJid 

aiv enthusKi>iu in their Wvnk. One of ovu' party. Mis* Jca.n- 
nette Kinnear, is herself a Mt. Holyoke girl, and you ean gviess 
t.hoy had a gxHxl tin^e togx^ther. And these girls .ue a t> pe of 
the oollegx" yoiu^g ixvple who we are tinviing a.ll thi\nigh c^hiua, 
givin^g a traini\l n\ind and the e.nthusiasn\ of a givat life 
motive to the buildiixg up of China. rhey art* on the right 
track, tiw for if you would catch a Chinaiuai\ you must start 
early, and Christian i\iucation is the solution of the gra\^ 
prv^hlems of China. 

The vlay after o\ir arrival ».XYuru\l the most notable Chris- 
tian demonstrati>.>i\ in China. Tcai tliouSiU\d of ilie Christians 



A SHANGHAI DEMONSTRATION 225 

and Sunday School scholars of Shanghai gathered in one of 
their parks or gardens called Chang Su-ho's Gardens, for a 
great Sunday School day. Beautiful flags and banners were 
in evidence. Sports were indulged in, including the finding of 
1 ,000 eggs hidden about the grounds. There were addresses 
by Wu Ting Fang, and our party, and our party song, and 
our cry: 

World's S. S. A., 

We're here to-day, 
, To greet and say: 

"ManSevail Man Sevail" 

This "Man Sevai " means 10,000 years, and is equivalent to 
the "Banzai" for Japan. 

The "Welcome Address" by the editor of Chinese Progress 
was remarkable. The editor is a type of hundreds of young 
Chinese who have been to America for their education, caught 
the spirit and ideals of America, and are devoting themselves 
to the reconstruction of China. 

Day fireworks were shot up, of the Chinese variety, great 
birds and animals floated in the air (in paper), the Chinese 
flag and American flags attached to a parachute formed one 
of these bursts, and attached to one parachute was a banner 
having on it in Chinese "The Word of God." 

There are "eats," lots of them, Chinese sweets, and food 
cooked in grease, nicely browned. Many of the girls were 
dressed in the Chinese custom of silk coats and pantaloons, 
while the boys and men wore long coats reaching to their 
feet, and opened somewhat on either side. This is rather a 
reversal of our western style. Many of the women now, 
however, are changing their form of dress to long skirts. 

The Shanghai papers were enthusiastic about this Sunday 
School gathering, which reminded one of Brooklyn Anniver- 



226 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

sary Day. The Shanghai MtTcz/ry said editorially: "Never 
have we seen in any Chinese gathering faces more eloquent of 
fine character, complete self-control, or greater benevolence. 
Young Shanghai, a type of young China, freed from many 
of the fetters of old superstitions; emancipated in the case 
of the women, from the effects of millenniums of enforced 
ignorance and seclusion; bright, cheery, intellectual types 
which any country might well be proud of, and which, if 
China is to be reinvigorated at all, may be trusted to perform 
the task. If it grows and grows and grows in China, as we 
hope to see it do, the days of crying wrong and universal 
corruption, and of all the grosser evils, are numbered. To 
wrong in all shapes, the Simday School spirit is an enemy, 
open, earnest, determined." 

At the welcome meeting by the missionaries of Shanghai 
Consul General Wilder presided. Americans are proud of 
him. He is a temperance man and a brilliant speaker, a 
manly type of a man from the good State of Maine. He 
spoke of the influence of the Sunday School in shaping his 
life, and said that the best news that he had received had 
just come from the Sunday School teacher of his fourteen- 
year-old girl in America, that his daughter was about to join 
the church. His faith in China and the Chinese was expressed 
in glowing terms. 

The native city of Shanghai is a typical Chinese city of 
500,000, walled in and entered through certain gates, these 
gates closed about nine o'clock in the evening. Narrow streets 
about eight or ten feet wide held a multitude of Chinese 
jostling each other. Smells of "fifty-seven varieties," and 
more, came from every direction. Predominating was the 
smell of cooking, with lots of grease in evidence. The Chinese 
are eating, some of them, all the time. They eat, not ac- 



A SHANGHAI DEMONSTRATION 227 

cording to the clock, but their pocketbook, and if they make 
a little extra, a feast is in order. Eighty per cent, of the 
Chinese are of the coolie class, toilers in city or country, 
getting from 15 to 25 cents a day Mexican, equal to 7I 
to 12I cents of our money. To be sure, rent is not high 
and clothing is not expensive, and but little of it is in 
evidence with the coolie class, and food is cheap. A few 
cash brass pieces, ten equalling a cent, will buy a bowl of 
rice. 

Every place on a Chinese business street is a store of some 
sort. The people live in the rear, and every member of a 
Chinese family is a worker. They work at the ancestral 
trade; once a merchant, always a merchant. And the families 
are united in clans, with the head of the clan the ruler, and 
this is the basis or unit of real democratic government in 
China. If a crime has been committed by a member of a 
clan, the clan is responsible for delivering up the guilty mem- 
ber. 

Then there are guild houses here. The merchants meet 
in these houses to discuss their business. There are no saloons 
in Chinese cities, but there are tea-drinking shops everywhere, 
and these are always crowded. The hours of the Chinaman 
are long, especially the coolie class. You will hear them 
chanting or grunting their cries, while carrying burdens to- 
gether, at 6 in the morning, and they will work pretty steadily. 
But they like to stop a bit and fan themselves and eat or 
drink their tea. And it doesn't pay you to hurry them beyond 
a certain point. 

It does not pay on a summer day, 

To hustle the bland Chinee, 
For the white man sweats and fumes and frets. 

While the yellow man sips his tea. 



228 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

At the end of the day there's a tombstone gray, 

Which worries the Chinaman least, 
For the chink is ahead, and the cliump is dead, 

VJho tried to hurry the East. 

So you learn to be a philosopher in the East, and to get 
along as best you can with the help here. And don't be sur- 
prised if, little by little, your good things disappear. I was 
at dinner the other night \vith a family whose dozen silver 
forks had been reduced, one by one, to seven, John China- 
man will move your things about the room, and if he sees 
that you don't notice the change, some ornament suddenly 
disappears. And he sells it to a receiver for a little and has 
a feast. And these receivers of stolen goods you find all over 
China. 

Our time at Shanghai was soon gone, and we moved into 
the interior. For real China is not found in the port cities, 
and Shanghai is one of the ^^^ckedest and worst of the port 
cities of the world. The story is told of a Chinaman who 
brought his son to Shanghai to be educated, but when he saw 
the wickedness of the city he was about to turn back, when he 
discovered a Young JSIen's Christian Association, and put his 
boy in the care of that institution. 

The resident or visiting foreigner is often responsible for 
the immoral condition of these ports. President Taft once 
told me that if the cliaracter of such visitors or residents was 
of the same stamp as the missionary, the impressions made 
by American and foreigners generally upon the Chinese 
would be vastlv different. 



CHAPTER XXIV 
HANGCHOW, SOOCHOW, AND NANKING 




SOOCHOW SUNDAY SCHOOL B_\LI,Y 
YOUNG CHINA FOR CHRIST. SOOCHOW MEETING 




IN A SEDAN CHAIR, SOOCHOW 

SUNDAY SCHOOL GROUP AT FIELD DAY, SHANGHAI 

AN "auto" go but wont, SOOCHOW 



CHAPTER XXIV 

HANGCHOW, SOOCHOW, AND NANKING 

From Shanghai one of our parties took rail for eight hours 
to Hangchow to the south of Shanghai. And an interesting 
city is Hangchow. There is here a Chinese population of 
750,000. Like all Chinese cities, it is walled. Marco Polo 
in his travels found Hangchow and described it as the most 
splendid city of the world. It is located on West Lake, which 
is surrounded with interesting buildings. On one side is 
Thunder Pagoda, 350 years old, built, as are all of the Chinese 
pagodas, in odd numbered stories. The legend as to this 
pagoda is that a certain witch brought diseases to Hangchow. 
By some magic she was transformed into a snake, and the 
snake was covered by a saucer and a pagoda built over it, and 
the diseases were supposed to be stopped. On the other side 
of the lake is the Needle Pagoda, a sharp-pointed pile about 
thirteen stories high. These pagodas are usually on hill- 
tops and can be seen for miles. They are supposed to be the 
link between the forces of earth and air, the bad spirits of the 
earth rimning up these pagodas into the air. 

This fear of spirits underlies much of the life of China. We 
passed along a long valley of the dead, where many monu- 
ments himdreds of years old were erected to widows who 
remained widows to their death. This valley was a propitious 
spot for burial, as it opened out into the lake and so joined 

231 



232 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

the forces of the wind and water — a favorable omen. New 
houses have tree branches attached to the top timbers to de- 
ceive the spirits into thinking the house is a tree, and so not 
enter the dwelling. We saw spirit boxes at the outside of a 
city gate to catch the wandering spirits. Walls are placed 
outside of temples, etc., to turn the spirits aside, for they are 
supposed to fly only in straight lines. 

Along the Hangchow valley road were occasional rest- 
houses. Wealthy Chinese would place large pots of tea at 
these houses to refresh the travellers. 

In the dreadful Tai-Ping rebellion Hangchow lost nine 
tenths of its population. Now five dialects are spoken in the 
city. The Manchu quarter is being reconstructed into fine 
public buildings and wider streets, after the expulsion of the 
Manchus in the recent revolution. The Chinese do nothing 
for these Manchus. In Dr. Mains's hospital I found a group 
of IV^anchu women doing needlework for food, as the Chinese 
will not give them work and they would starve otherwise. 
This hospital, by the way, established by the English Epis- 
copal Church, is one of the most famous in China, thirty-two 
years old, all developed by Dr. Mains, a canny Scotchman. 
About 25,000 cases are treated annually. And this is only 
one of many Christian hospitals in this land treating the 
desperate cases of these Chinese, who bring on disease by their 
filth, infest the highways and beg piteously for help. Often 
these hospitals take in these cases, and after curing them put 
them at work. "I was sick and ye visited me; naked, and ye 
clothed me." I saw a beggar who was picked up on the 
highway in a filthy condition and taken into a hospital for 
treatment by one of our choice American girls, who said to 
me, with a thrill in her voice: "How I wish there were two 
of me instead of one, as I see the needs of these people." 



HANGCHOW, SOOCHOW, AND NANKING 233 

At Hangchow we saw the splendid Presbyterian College 
which is located on a high bluff overlooking the river, A 
group of fine Southern Presbyterian young people were doing 
the work. The river here sweeps around in a great "Z," 
and the college is called the "Z" College. A tidal wave 
three to four feet high comes up here twice a day with a great 
roar — a remarkable freak of nature. 

In the city we went into one of their large drug shops, 
where $750,000 of medicine is sold annually to the poor people 
of China; but how much of these wares really helps is very 
doubtful. They put a variety of things in their pills, hop- 
ing that some one thing will cure; not so unlike some American 
patent medicines. A number of deer are here, and these deer 
are killed off and dried, and the whole deer, horns and all 
(hence hartshorn), is ground up into the pills. 

Nearby is a high temple hill, from which we obtained a 
wonderful view of Hangchow and its tiled roofs. We saw the 
open space where the governor's palace was burned a year ago 
in the revolution when the government peacefully went over 
from the Manchus to the revolutionaries. On this hill was 
a Temple of Hell, and a weird place it was with dragon carv- 
ings, hideous faces, and an inner room where the devil was 
supposed to dwell, in which a red light shone, and from which 
strange sounds came to frighten the people. But, thank God, 
this temple worship is being done away with. All over China 
the revolutionaries broke these gods in pieces, and the people 
saw that they were after all but stone and wood. In their 
Sacred Mountain a wholesale destruction of these idols oc- 
curred. And now these temples are being used for churches 
and Christian schools and Young Men's Christian Association 
buildings. Soldiers are quartered in them, and the accoutre- 
ments of the soldiers were hung around the necks of the gods in 



234 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

one place near Shanghai. But as these old religious temples 
are passing away, it becomes all the more necessary that some- 
thing worth while be substituted. 

Not far from Hangchow are two large temples. Hangchow 
is in the midst of a great silk district. Mulberry trees are 
cultivated all along the line of the railroad. To these temples 
the people come, sometimes 5,000 to 10,000 a day, to pray for 
a good crop of silkworms. There is a strong spirit of devo- 
tion in these people. It only needs right direction. 

At Hangchow we witnessed a fine rally of the Sunday 
Schools. We saw here the first Christian of this section, an 
old lady converted forty-five years ago. And the mission- 
ary who led this Chinese woman to Christ, Mrs. Stewart, 
was in the gathering. 

The missionary body, about thirty-five in number, gave 
us a fine evening reception. They were glad to see new faces 
from the homeland, as we were glad to catch the inspiration 
of their devotion. 

We used here in transportation the sedan chairs, con- 
structed of bamboo poles with a rattan seat. These chairs 
ride very easily on the bare shoulders of the coolies, who, 
when they change shoulders or teams, give a shrill cry. They 
go singing along or shouting or calling responsively. 

The Hangchow party returned to Shanghai, and thence 
westward on the main line to Soochow and Nanking, up the 
Yangtse valley. 

This valley bore the brunt of the great Tai Ping rebellion 
during which millions of lives were sacrificed. Soochow is but 
a few hours from Nanking. The missionaries were at the 
station and guided the party to the canal which runs about 
the old City Wall. Laimches were entered and the boat 
moved around to the City Gate. Near this spot General 




CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, NANKING 
PRESENTATION OF TEACHER TRAINING DIPLOMAS, NANKING 




SUNDAY SCHOOL FIELD DAY, XAXKIXG 

DESERTED EXAMINATION HALLS, NANKINo 

CHINESE AND CHRISTIAN FLAGS 



HANGCHOW, SOOCHOW, AND NANKING 235 

Gordon was shot while conducting an attack during the 
rebellion. On the bank of the canal a caribou cow is the 
power operating a series of buckets for purposes of irrigation, 
a favorite method along the Chinese streams. 

The missionary pointed out a place in the stream where a 
boat, on which another missionary was riding, had overturned. 
With great difficulty he got ashore, but could get no help 
from the people to dry his clothes, and finally in that condi- 
tion had to find his way home after a long walk. The reason 
for their failure to help is that the Chinese believe that if a 
man falls overboard the evil spirit may have designed his 
death, and to help him would bring the displeasure of the 
spirit; or if a rescue was attempted and failed, the man's spirit 
would pursue the rescuer; or, if the man was rescued, he 
could burden his benefactor thereafter with his support. Eco- 
nomic and other reasons therefore united against a rescue. 

While waiting for the second division of the party, let us 
climb the City Wall and survey the city. That substantial 
group of buildings is the Southern Methodist Compound. 
The Soochow College in this compound stands high in the 
quality of its output. Great piles of overgrown rubbish 
within the walls testify as to the severity of the destruction 
of the city during the old rebellion. That pagoda yonder is 
at the foot of a long business street running across the city, 
and which terminates in a temple. The legend is that the 
temple is the head and the pagoda the tail of a great dragon 
whose backbone runs under the business street, and no well 
is dug in that street, otherwise the backbone of the dragon 
may be disturbed. And this is simply one of thousands of 
similar beliefs that have enslaved the intelligence of the people. 

After inspection of the buildings in the compound we are 
entertained at luncheon at the homes of the missionaries, and 



236 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

then start for the meeting. Some chose sedan chairs, and 
some, including several of the ladies, preferred donkeys. 
Each donkey had a string of bells around his neck. The 
donkey driver walks in front, beside, or behind, according to 
the temper of the animal and the direction taken by the 
donkey's understandings. 

Imagine a procession, a good two United States city blocks 
in length, and perhaps more, going through these narrow 
streets, over narrow stone bridges, along foul-smelling ways, 
and attracting the curious natives at every turn. But even 
a worm will turn, much more a donkey, and the piling onto 
one of these unfortunate animals of the weight and dignity 
of a representative of the bar of Pittsburgh was too much for 
good nature, and at one of the bridge crossings the donkey 
took counsel with himself, and promptly floored his opponent. 
"Oh, why should the spirit of mortal be proud?" 

But the Sunday School meeting was a good one, despite 
this slight interruption to the course of human events. The 
special demonstration of the teaching of a model primary class 
was unusually interesting. These Chinese are born teachers 
and imitators. They only need to be shown how. A visit 
to the extensive industrial work for Chinese women followed, 
then another jolly donkey ride to the station, where a special 
car was in waiting for Nanking. 

All the party joined at Nanking, the old capital. Car- 
riages here conveyed us from the railroad station for a ride of 
five miles to the city proper, where we were to stay over 
Sunday, mostly in missionary homes. It was good to taste 
some strawberries and green peas raised on the place. The 
Chinese are fine gardeners, and one can live comfortably in 
China if you can stay at home. But in going about the 
country itinerating, as the missionaries must do to reach the 



HANGCHOW, SOOCHOW, AND NANKING 237 

people, you have to take great chances of fleas, lice, insects, 
and food, not to mention smallpox and a few little things of 
that sort. It will take several generations of education to 
clean up this condition. And with perhaps only 10 per cent, 
of the people in schools, the process is naturally slow. 

Besides the Christian day schools and colleges, which you 
will find at practically every important point in China and in 
many of their villages, there are also village and city public 
schools; rather, groups of children taught by licensed Chinese 
teachers. The parents of these children pay for this educa- 
tion, and the fees support the teacher. But the plan is only 
partial, for China has no general scheme of education as 
yet. 

One of the interesting sights of Nanking are the old exami- 
nation houses, or stalls. Here I saw long rows of such stalls, 
each stall three by four or five feet, which accommodated in 
all nearly 20,000 students who came to this centre for the ex- 
aminations in the old Confucian classics. For three days 
they were shut into these compartments composing their 
essays, which were the basis of government position. The 
strain was something enormous. The poorest in the realm 
could compete. With the substitution, a few years ago, of 
English courses for the old Confucian classical system, these 
examination stalls were no more used. Weeds have grown 
up in these long passages, where once the scholars of the 
empire strove for place. Nearby, there is a famous old 
Confucian temple with heavy iron gates, the bolts rusted, 
the enclosure overgrown with tall weeds, the building going to 
ruin. The Confucian priest, with the temple and these ex- 
amination houses partly in ruin, seemed a part of old China, 
which for thousands of years has existed while world empires 
have come and gone. And now the new China is here 



238 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

to meet age-long customs and prejudices. Nothing but the 
vitaHty of a Christian faith can meet the needs of the new 
day. 

Nanking is the natural educational centre for central China, 
as Peking is for the north. Nanking University here has a 
strong spirit and a great mission. The quahty of the students 
is high. This is the ideal place for the training of a Sunday 
School leadership for central China. The university is ready 
to undertake a special department for this purpose. And no 
greater service can be done for these nuUions of central China, 
who, if they are to advance at aU, must advance through the 
power of the word of God, than to make such a leadership 
possible by the promoting of a strong Sunday School de- 
partment at this university. 

A remarkable thing about the colleges and Christian schools 
in China, Mr. Tewksbury stated, is that 87I per cent, in these 
institutions are now Christians and 60 per cent, of these are 
in church work. Missionaries recognize that in a compara- 
tively few years the Chinese work must be carried on by 
Chinese, not by themselves. It is all the more important, 
therefore, that the leadership now in training should be 
trained in Sunday School methods, and not to attempt to do 
this work in ten to twenty years after the mould has set. 

One of the interesting things of the stay at Nanking was 
the presence of Rev. Charles Leaman who was at Nanking 
35 years ago, and who pointed out in the Simday School 
gathering a teacher who was the first pupU as a little girl in his 
Sunday School. And so the dividends come in. 

At Nanking 3,000 of the members of the Sunday Schools 
and Christian schools met in a great field day. They marched 
and countermarched in the seminary grounds. The breeze was 
fine, and showed to splendid advantage their beautiful silk 



HANGCHOW, SOOCHOW, AND NANKING 239 

banners and flags and school uniforms. The Chinese Chris- 
tian flag, "By this sign conquer," was prominent. 

The crowd gathered under a big tent constructed of bamboo 
poles covered with matting. The audience of intelligent 
looking Christian young people and fine-looking Chinese men 
and women was very impressive. A demonstration was given 
on the platform of an old-time Sunday School with disorderly 
children, superintendent ringing a bell, etc., and an up-to-date 
Sunday School with young men as teachers of small classes, 
everything orderly and interesting. One hundred of the 
young men and young women were awarded certificates 
from the China Sunday School Union for passing exami- 
nation in the first of ten books in the new teacher training 
course, and they were proud to receive these certificates at the 
hands of Mr. Heinz and Dr. Wilbur as the first to be presented 
in China. A seal was affixed for the first book and there are 
spaces for nine other seals to be added when the other books 
are read. 

A banquet was given the men of the Nanking Chamber of 
Commerce, and great enthusiasm was shown as references 
were made to the friendly relations of the two republics, and 
as we voiced our faith in the China of to-morrow. 

In reply to the address of welcome, Mr. Heinz made a com- 
plimentary reference to the Chinese flag, and then referring 
to the colors of the flag, said: 

"When China is Christian, the black will stand for sin, the 
red for sacrifice and salvation, the white for purity, the blue 
for loyalty, and the gold for Christian character. If with 
China's business integrity and intelligence there can be added 
Christian education, it will become one of the mightiest 
nations of the earth. To accomplish this, the children of the 
nation must be trained up in the nurture and admonition of 



240 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

God. Ninetypercent. of thegreat business men in America are 
Christian men. Identifyyourchildren with theSunday School 
where the Bible, the great Christian classic, is the textbook." 

An address by Mr. Kinnear was also called for. Referring 
to the recent founding of the Chinese Republic, he said: 

"Your Ship of State is launched, but you need triple screws 
and turbine engines to make it forge to the front. I think of 
our thirteen original colonies as I see that your representatives 
are wrestling with the same problems. Political aspirations 
stood in our way as in yours, and many could not see then 
that the whole was greater than any of its parts. Then it 
was proposed that the political convention be led in prayer, 
and from that day God has guided our republic. And so 
China, a few weeks ago, asked that a day of prayer be made 
for the new republic, and the news was flashed around the 
world, and the Christian nations were united in prayer for 
China. 

"Given ten years of quiet, China will forge to the front. 
The greatest asset of a nation is not its wealth, but its people 
and the character of the people. England and America have 
based this work of character building upon the Bible, and if 
this nation does the same, it must become great. 

"We are here as business men interested in the Sunday 
School. America and China clasp hands to-day for Christian 
education. We commend the Sunday School to you as the 
best thing we have." 

At Nanking and elsewhere we noticed that the queue had 
practically disappeared. At Hangchow an edict had been 
issued that all queues were to be oft in four days, and they 
took the "cue." And the Chinese look a lot better without 
these queues, too. And their shirts at the back are less greasy. 
But the Chinese wives weep and lament, for they can no 
longer, as the suffragettes of the Orient, grasp their husbands' 
queues and pull them around the floor. And a new mode of 



HANGCHOW, SOOCHOW, AND NANKING 241 

fighting has to be invented, for the old method was to take 
hold of the end of the queue and then kick the person's 
stomach. 

The Chinese are fighters in some ways. They are fighting 
the opium business hard and want to have the trafl&c stopped, 
even before the term fixed for the final discontinuance of the 
business. And England must face its moral responsibility in 
assisting China to do this by accepting a loss on the opium 
held in warehouses in China and imported from India. 

They are fighting the cigarette, too. These cigarette com- 
panies are offering about twelve cigarettes for a cent in an 
effort to force this business upon China; the company is the 
American and British Tobacco Company. 

At a railroad station, opposite a sign advertising the ciga- 
rette, was another sign in Chinese showing a Chinaman with a 
flag, and sajdng: "The cigarette ruins the health, wounds the 
brain, and causes disease. I admonish my brethren to beware 
of cigarettes." This sign was put up by the Reform Society. 
Cities have taken vigorous action against the cigarette selling, 
and then the cigarette companies have sent their agents to 
give cigarettes away in order to fasten the habit on the people. 
It makes one's blood boil to think how China has to fight off 
these companies who come from Christian nations and wil\ 
not give the people of China a square chance. 



CHAPTER XXV 
IN THE CONFUCIAN COUNTRY 



CHAPTER XXV 

IN THE CONFUCIAN COUNTRY 

While the river party is on its way to Hankow, the group, 
headed by Mr. Landes, left Nanking by the Pukow Railway 
bound for Peking by way of the Confucian country. This is 
in the Shangtung Province, known as the Holy Land of China, 
and was the scene of much of the revolutionary uprising 
against President Yuan. 

The first stop was made at Yen-Chow-fu, after an all day 
ride. During the afternoon, Mr, Chapin, who is the author 
of many of the interesting articles in the National Geographic 
Magazine, boarded the train with his wife and son, for they 
were on their way to these spots of such wonderful historic 
and scenic interest, including the grave of Confucius and the 
Sacred Mountain. Since both parties were going to the same 
places, Mr. Chapin and family stopped off at Yen-Chow-fu 
to spend the night. 

No foreigner lives in this place, so Rev. Mr. Hanson, of the 
Methodist Episcopal Mission, had kindly come down from 
Tianfu to make arrangements for the party. It was 10:30 
at night, and a beautiful moonlight, and there was a twenty- 
minutes' ride on Chinese wheelbarrows ahead of the party. 
This mode of conveyance is better or worse felt than described. 
The large single wheel is in the middle of the barrow, and on 
either side of the wheel a platform. You sit on either edge 
of this platform, according to its need of balancing, your feet 

24s 



246 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

hanging over, and the barrow pusher skilfully balances and 
propels the machine, aided by a strap around his neck, the 
ends of the strap attached to the barrow handles. Every jolt 
of this Chinese auto has its echo in some part of your dia- 
phragm. It is a sure cure for liver complaint, stomach trou- 
ble, insomnia, inertia, and vanity. But the machine "gets 
there" finally, and as you alight you wonder what article in 
your personal constitution is missing from the list. 

The squeak of those machines is as the sound of many 
pigs, yet it is not sufficient to disturb the slumber of the 
Chinamen resting quietly on the ledges along the street as you 
pass. For there are a lot of non-rent-payers in China as in 
India who have God's limitless sky as the dome of their home, 
and the watching stars as their protectors. 

The party alighted at a native Christian schoolhouse where, 
by the thoughtfulness of Mr. Hanson, cots had been arranged. 
He had brought provisions also, and there was a splendid 
lunch all prepared. It was indeed a merry group that sat 
about eating and telling stories until midnight. 

At five o'clock on the morning of May 20th the party was 
up, breakfast over, and at 6:30 was on its way to visit the 
grave of Confucius, twelve miles distant, and near the village 
of Tian, where Confucius was born and where he spent the 
greater part of his earlier life. The conveyances were the 
famous two-wheeled Pekinese carts and donkeys, scarcely 
less upsetting to the organization of the department of the 
interior than the wheelbarrow. One ceases to wonder at the 
endurance and patience of the Chinese character when he 
sees or feels these inventions of the evil spirit, which seem to 
have been built to wreak revenge upon the human body and 
spirit. 

The greater part of the day is spent in visiting the grave 





■J -, 



A CHINESE AEROPLANE, AT THE SACRED MOUNTAIN 
ON THE WAY TO THE TOMB OF CONFUCIUS 





CADETS FROM M. E. BOYS' SCHOOL, TIAN-FU 
A CHINESE FUNERAL 



IN THE CONFUCIAN COUNTRY 247 

of China's great sage, whose ethics have been inwrought into 
the fibre of the great nation, and whose precepts have given 
to it the stability of personal, home, and national life that has 
persisted for twenty-five centuries. The party visited the 
Confucian Temple within the Sacred City. Near this place 
Confucius, his son, grandson, and many relatives and disciples 
are buried. 

The grave of Confucius is well preserved and bears the date 
of his burial 479 b. c. It is located in a plot of ground that 
has been set apart as a burial place for those only who are 
direct lineal descendants of Confucius. These surroundings 
are to the Chinese holy. Let us pause here for a moment 
while we read what Miss Mei, a Chinese girl of Kiu Kiang, 
tells us what she has gathered of Confucius and his teaching: 

Possibly no man in any country has left so decided an im- 
pression on his countrymen for so long a time as Confucius 
upon the Chinese. He was without question a great man, and 
was wise far beyond the men of his age. He was a reformer 
and taught the highest principles of pure morals and good 
government. 

Legends tell how the birth of Confucius (550 b. c.) was 
heralded by strange signs and appearances, and how the 
mother heard music and a voice saying, "Heaven is moved at 
the birth of thy holy son, and sends down harmonious sounds." 
He developed into a thoughtful child, and when fifteen years 
old ga\ e himself to study. He married at nineteen, but his 
married life was unhappy and after a year or two he was 
divorced. He was appointed keeper of the stores of grain, 
and after a few months was made the guardian of public fields 
and lands. Giving up his position, he became the teacher of 
an earnest band of students, and thus commenced his career. 
Many young men, sons of nobles, became his scholars. He 
travelled for a time, visiting great cities and courts of em- 
perors, and being everywhere received with great honor. He 



248 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

was distressed at the loose way in which the government was 
administered, and he put his own principles which he had 
framed to the test. Crime diminished somewhat under his 
rule, but the tendencies of the times were against him, yet 
he struggled on, and never lost confidence in himself or his 
mission. His life was a standing protest against the iniqui- 
ties of his time. One morning (478 b. c.) he walked in front 
of his door, saying: 

"The great mountain must crumble; 
The strong beam must break. 
And the wise man withers away like a plant." 

Soon he took to his bed, saying, "My time is come to die," 
and after a few weeks' sickness he passed away. 

In his teaching he did not refer to future life, and had little 
to say about the gods. He taught that man is master of his 
own happiness and destiny. He was a reformer rather than 
a religious teacher. He emphasized filial obedience as the 
most important duty, and the idea of filial piety is carried 
up to the government. The common people must respect and 
obey the ofiicers as fathers; lower officers must look upon 
higher officers as fathers; and all must look to the emperor 
as father, and he in turn must look upon his people as children. 
In his teaching also he makes constant reference to ancestral 
worship. This did not originate with Confucius, but he 
revived it. He cared very little about worship of any sort; 
his system was of the earth earthy. All the worship of Con- 
fucius is the addition of later days. 

His books rule the thoughts and regulate the practice of 
the most populous nation on earth. On them its literature is 
founded, to them its morals conform. He taught that the 
aim of living should be the attainment of perfect virtue by the 
observance of the five fundamental laws of the relation be- 
tween ruler and subject, parents and children, husband and 
wife, friends and brothers, and the practice of five cardinal 
virtues — humanity, justice, order, rectitude or sincerity, 
and good faith. 



IN THE CONFUCIAN COUNTRY 249 

It is not easy to define the character of this great sage. 
That he was a man of great intellectual power is beyond all 
question. It is evident that he had great reverence for the 
men of olden time, and devoted himself very earnestly to the 
study of the past. He was thoroughly imbued with the con- 
servatism which characterized the Chinese in his time; and 
his influence has been potent in perpetuating it. He was 
humanitarian in his sympathies, and sincerely endeavored 
to alleviate the sufferings of his fellowmen. In his brief 
official career he manifested great executive ability. The 
multitudes of disciples that gathered about him were not 
drawn by any personal magnetism, nor by the warmth of 
overflowing affection; for Confucius does not seem to have 
possessed these qualities in any great degree. It was almost 
entirely by the force of his intellect that he secured the re- 
spect of men, and drew disciples from every directioh. 

He participated in the worship of ancestors, which was 
common in his time. This would seem to imply his belief in 
their continued existence, and to shed some light on his faith 
in regard to the future. But it is by no means certain that the 
fact reveals anything reliable to us in regard to his real belief. 
It may have been a mere acquiescence with the established 
customs of the time, rather than the outgrowth of the heart's 
convictions. 

He assigns to woman a position of great inferiority. Man 
is the representative of heaven, and is supreme over all things. 
Woman yields obedience to the instructions of man, and helps 
to carry out his principles. On this account she can deter- 
mine nothing of herself, and is subject to the rule of the three 
obediences: when young, she must obey her father and elder 
brother; when married, she must obey her husband; when her 
husband has died, she must obey her son. She may not think 
of marrying a second time. No instructions or orders must 
issue from the harem. Woman's business is simply the 
preparation and supplying of wine and food. Beyond the 
threshold of her apartments she should not be known for 
evil or for good. She may not cross the boundaries of the 
state to accompany a funeral. She may take no steps on 



250 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

her own motion, and may come to no conclusion on her own 

deliberation. 

In Confucianism proper we find simply a system of hvmian 
teaching, excellent in the main, concerning the relations of 
man to man; and the problem which Confucianism has been 
demonstrating for nearly twenty-five centuries is the in- 
sufiiciency of a knowledge of the respective duties of human 
relations ^^^thout the knowledge of our relations to Gk)d. 

Confucianism is altogether passive; Christianity is radi- 
cally active. Confucianism gropes in ignorance of God; 
Christianity takes hold upon Him and brings Him to us. 
Confucianism stands in darkness at the tomb; Christianity 
makes it all radiant with the beams of eternal glory. 

The party had lunch at the native inn, and left here the 
Chapin family, who did not need to go on as rapidly. By fast 
dri\ing (used in the comparative degree) the donkeys make 
the trip of six miles across country to another station, arriving 
just in time for the 2:30 train. By 4:30 Tianfu is reached, 
and here a great welcome is given by the students of the Boys' 
School of the Methodist Episcopal Mission. A reception 
company of these students in cadet uniforms was at the sta- 
tion, with drum and bugle corps, as an escort to the Mission 
Compound, to which the \isitors were carried in sedan chairs. 
This was another interesting procession to match the Soochow 
party. On arrival the visitors were taken to the grounds 
where the new Girls' School is to be erected, and here there 
was a great outdoor meeting addressed by Mr. Landes, Miss 
Brown, Mr. Harrison, and Mr. Stafford. 

Following this came the program of athletic events, which 
the Government School attended in a body. Thousands of 
\dsitors were there. These sports mean much to the young 
people, for competitive athletics of this sort are a recent 
introduction in China. Especially are athletics new to the 




CARVED MARBLE PILLAR, CONFUCLAN TEJ.IPLE, TL^N-EU 
CONFUCIUS' TOMB NEAR TIAN-FU 
ROADWAY TO CONFUCIUS ' TOMB 




ON GROUNDS NEAR BOYS' SCHOOL, TIAN-FU 
TUG OE WARj S. S. PIELD DAY, TIAN-FU 



IN THE CONFUCIAN COUNTRY 251 

girls of China, for the past custom of foot binding has made 
such exercise impossible. Even now one of the sad sights of 
China is to see the women along the street leaning on others 
as they walk, for their poor stubs of feet make independent 
walking impossible. With the liberation of the feet through 
royal edict, and the Hberation of the mind and body and souls 
of the Chinese women, there is no hmit to which their natural 
splendid physical and mental abihty may not carry them. 
Their eagerness for knowledge is shown in the large niunbers 
of older women who are foimd in the Christian industrial and 
other schools, patiently, persistently, learning to read, despite 
what to most American women would be insuperable ob- 
stacles. When we know that not more than one in ten thou- 
sand Chinese women have been able to read in the past, we 
can understand what knowledge means to them. 

Following the athletic events at Tianfu came an evening 
mass meeting in the Methodist Episcopal Chapel. 

The next day came the visit to Tishan, the great sacred 
mountain. Coolie carriers were engaged, and the party was 
carried clean to the top in sedan chairs. The ascent to 
Tishan is made by a series of stairways composed of 6,300 
steps. This long, tedious journey was made without a mis- 
step of any kind. 

On the way large companies of pilgrims were passed, going 
and coming. Among these pilgrims were many Chinese 
women, hobbling along on their stumps of bound feet, making 
the weary pilgrimage all the way to the summit "v\dth the hope 
of securing peace to their souls through worship before the 
Confucian shrine at the top. 

Hastening down the mountain, tea was served, and the 
train taken to Tsinan-fu, where the party arrived at six in the 
evening. The journey took them through the city streets in 



252 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

order to reach the homes of the missionaries on the farther 
side of the city. That night there was no plan but rest, for 
which all felt profoundly grateful. 

The next forenoon was spent at a very unique missionary 
museum and institute, conducted by the English Baptist 
Society. Each day the buildings are open from 8 a. m. until $ 
p. M., and every hour there is a fifteen-minute gospel sermon by 
a native pastor. There are hundreds of visitors every day, and 
frequently thousands. It was one of the most interesting 
places visited on the tour. The purpose of it all is to teach 
God in history, nature, and science, and to prove how progress 
depends upon Christianity. And the Chinese, with their 
deeply inquisitive natures, are especially susceptible to this 
sort of teaching. 

Robertson, who accompanied the Mott-Eddy party about 
China over a year ago, was an effective aid in the presentation 
of the gospel message by the use of his scientific apparatus, 
which taught the lesson of the unseen forces about us. At 
Tsinan-fu during those meetings the Governor directed the 
officials and students to go to the Provincial Assembly build- 
ing to hear Dr. Mott. Over 800 students there signed the 
card pledging themselves to read the Bible with open mind, 
and as they received light, to follow that light to the accept- 
ance of Christ. 

On the morning of May 23d there was a gathering in the 
chapel for the Sunday School Convention meeting. Here 
there was a roll call of schools and some splendid reports. 

Missionaries and native paid workers are responsible for 
much of the Sunday School work in China. The extension of 
the Christian primary day school is one of the most satis- 
factory methods of recruiting Sunday School membership 
here, and the missions are devoting themselves largely to this 



IN THE CONFUCIAN COUNTRY 253 

plan. Out of these primary schools come candidates for the 
Christian boarding-school and college. As the government 
shall undertake a plan of general education, these primary 
schools may, as in Japan and Korea, be replaced by govern- 
ment schools, and the burden of Bible instruction will then be 
thrown principally upon the Sunday School as such. 

The facility displayed by the Chinese boys and girls in Scrip- 
ture, as in other memorization, is remarkable. Their long 
training in the sheer memorization of the Confucian classics 
is responsible for this. 

One of the surprises of the trip came to Miss Brown, of the 
party, while she was upon the platform at the Tsinan-fu 
convention. One of the missionaries stationed there, a Miss 
Boehne, lived at one time in Miss Brown's native county in 
Nebraska. Miss Brown did know Miss Boehne was some- 
where in China, but the latter did not know Miss Brown was 
in the country. Imagine the surprise of both as Miss Boehne 
saw her old friend in the church. And there was a glorious 
"gab-fest" until the shadows of the evening. 

As in all other places. Miss Brown had displayed her flags 
here, and was told that a Chinese woman had asked a mis- 
sionary if Miss Brown's husband was a flag maker. 

That evening was an open conference with the missionaries. 
Owing to long absence from home, many of these workers have 
not had opportunity of keeping pace with the fast-moving 
Sunday School development, and welcome heartily all plans 
that can be adapted to the simpler requirements of the mis- 
sion field. 

Early in the morning the party left for Peking, crossing 
the Yellow River soon after leaving Tsinan-fu, and several 
times coming in view of the Grand Canal. Cars are changed 
at Tientsin, and Peking is reached Saturday evening. 



CHAPTER XXVI 
UP THE YANGTSE 



CHAPTER XXVI 

UP THE YANGTSE 

From Nanking the party had divided. One group went to 
Peking by the new Pukow railroad, visiting Confucius' tomb 
and the Sacred Mountain, as related in the previous chapter. 
The writer accompanied Mr. Heinz and the group that took 
the boat at Nanking up the Yangtse River for a two days' sail 
to Hankow, visiting several cities on the river en route. 

The steamer was a comfortable one, and twenty of the 
party found excellent rooms. The Yangtse- Kiang River, 
you know, is the longest in the world. We were to go up 
some 800 miles. Farther up there are great gorges and rapids, 
where in the rainy season the rise is over one hundred feet 
as the waters come down from Thibet. At Nanking the 
river is broad, and on either side there is an extensive plain 
with but little rise to the land. Chinese junks with high sterns 
and mutton sails are seen everywhere. In the fore part of 
the boats are frequently seen two big eyes, one on either side, 
through which there is a watchout kept for the spirits that 
rove over the water. 

The navigation on the Yangtse is very dangerous. The 
channel is a shifting one. Pilots are paid a high figure. The 
currents are very swift and we made but slow progress against 
the stream. The scenery grew more interesting as we pro- 
gressed. Stately pagodas reached up their stories into the 
air, reminding one of the tower of Babel which was suffered 

257 



258 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

to be constructed in pagoda form. Villages were passed, 
each with its turreted walls. The temple bells were heard 
occasionally from village or hills. Tall rushes lined the shores. 
Farther back wheat and barley fields were in cultivation. 

We started at 8 o'clock a. m. At two o'clock we made our 
first stop at Wuhu, a city of 125,000 people. We had all 
planned to stay here for several hours, but the captain was 
racing for a cargo of tea at Hankow, and only one hour was 
allowed for Wuhu. Several of the missionaries came aboard 
and pleaded so hard that several of us stopped off to take the 
next day's steamer for Hankow. We took jinrikishas, but 
they were worse than nothing, for the stones of the narrow 
streets were unfriendly, and we had a bad shaking up. We 
came at last to an old Chinese theatre, where the Sunday 
School demonstration was held. What was our surprise to 
find here 1,300 men and women, and a body of young men and 
boys from the splendid High School Academy of the American 
Episcopal Church, and children from the Sunday Schools and 
members of the Chamber of Commerce. The large building 
was decorated with large and small American and Chinese 
flags. These flags decorated some of the city buildings as a 
token of welcome. 

The president of the Chamber of Commerce read his wel- 
come. The drum and fife corps of the high school played 
some American airs in our honor, including "Yankee Doodle." 
The boys looked well in their white suits, and we applauded 
their performance. After reply by Dr. Wilbur and the writer, 
the president of the Chamber of Commerce was so pleased 
that he came forward and made another speech. 

These Chinese are very interesting. They need guidance, 
as they lack a certain initiative. Set them going in a line of 
conduct and they are likely to keep going straight. Our 




LANDING AT KIUKIANG 
SUNDAY SCHOOL GATHERING, KIUKIANG 




CONFUCIAN TEMPLE, WrCHANG 

GENERAL LI AND FAMILY, WUCHANG 

DR. MARY STONE AND WORKERS, KIVKIANG 



UP THE YANGTSE 259 

interpreter was a bright young Chinese, headmaster of the 
high school, who spoke English perfectly. In the morning 
we spoke to a group of Chinese Sunday School workers, and 
in the afternoon took passage on the China Merchants' ship 
for Hankow. On the hills at Wuhu is the splendid Methodist 
Hospital, which treats 19,000 cases a year. 

Our first stop at Ngankin was certainly interesting. The 
city contains many rough men. Many discharged soldiers 
are here. These soldiers form robber bands that terrorize the 
country. On the previous trip of the steamer these robbers 
had boarded the boat and robbed some first-class pas- 
sengers. The mate used his revolver and handcuffs and 
fourteen of the robbers were taken to Hankow and thirteen 
of them shot. This is short shrift, but in China a robber meets 
with the same fate as a murderer. They say the Chinese are 
only kept within bounds n many places by such summary 
justice. They do not respect any lighter sentences, and 
we must be patient with their methods until a firm govern- 
ment is established. 

At Ngankin we were curious of course to see what would 
happen on this trip. At the landing hundreds of rough-look- 
ing men were gathered ready to spring into the boat. They 
pretend to be hotel runners and get aboard and rob. But 
after they had scrambled aboard like cats, the first officer took 
his revolver, knocked one or two of them over, and this settled 
the trouble, and they scampered away, for they are afraid of 
foreigners. Another gang attempted to board the steamer 
later on. They were in a boat, but the comprador, who has 
charge of the Chinese passengers, had his men Lined up and 
prevented them from getting aboard. 

On these Yangtse riverboats are always a lot of smugglers. 
We watched them as they pulled out bags of salt and other 



26o A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

things from mysterious places on the steamer, from spaces in 
the wheel box, etc., and then slyly got them ashore just as the 
steamer was leaving. John Chinaman loves to make his 
money in these sly ways. Sometimes and often he is caught, 
and there is the official ''squeeze," by which he has to pay for 
the privilege, or if he is smuggling opium, he may lose his 
head. We passed by a public execution place at Wuhu where 
frequently these unfortunates are beheaded or shot. 

This system of "squeezes" is a part of China's system, and it 
runs from those highest up to the lowest. An official, especially 
under the Manchu rule, may pay a big sum for his position as 
Governor or other officer. He proceeds as rapidly as possible 
to make this good by squeezing the taxes and everything in 
sight; the latter possibly 70 to 90 per cent. The people expect 
it and no complaint is made, imless the percentage exceeds an 
understood figure. Then there is trouble. And this has been 
going on for centuries. The poor farmer has to pay the bill 
ultimately. If he happens to have a good crop he is notffied to 
hand out, or the robbers come and relieve him. So a China- 
man converts his produce as soon as he can into cash and don't 
teU anybody what he has. So the whole system of China 
needs changing, and this will require time and patience, and 
Christian training. 

At Wuhu we saw the flooded district. The Yangtse was 
highandhad been for three successive seasons, and the farmers 
had lost their crops of rice by the overflow. These refugees 
crowd around the cities, living in matting covered huts or 
hovels, and in their rags they certainly looked distressing. 

Our last stop was at Kiukiang for a few hours. This is a 
silver manufacturing place. A splendid Methodist Hospital 
is here, managed by a wonderful Chinese woman, Mary Stone, 
as she is called. She was trained at Ann Arbor, Michigan, is 



UP THE YANGTSE 261 

an expert surgeon, and at Kiukiang they care for over 20,000 
cases a year, poor and rich alike. While the patients are 
waiting their turn each day in the waiting room, Miss Stone's 
Chinese mother, the first convert here, talks to the patients 
about Christ, and they are helped to see the Master in whose 
name this loving service is rendered. And this is the plan 
at the Christian hospitals of China. 

At Kiukiang there is a beautiful lake. Beyond this is the 
Methodist Compound. Here there is a splendid Girls' 
School, a Boys' School, and a Woman's Training School, where 
Simday School teachers are being trained. Thirty-three 
day schools are being taught by them in this district, and 
1,000 scholars are gathered in these day schools, and on Sun- 
day 1,500 heathen children in the city are assembled in Sun- 
day Schools. The city authorities have been so impressed 
with this work that they have offered a temple for Sunday 
School use if the equipment can be provided. Miss Hughes is 
at the head of this training work. She comes from Brookl)ai, 
New York, and is one of the most enthusiastic Simday School 
workers we found in China. A great reception had been given 
Mr. Heinz and the party which had landed from the previous 
steamer, and a special tent with matting roof and open sides 
had been erected under the trees for the purpose of the meet- 
ing. Vines and flowers were trained about the tent. The 
birds were singing during the program. The boys and girls 
recited the Sunday School lesson on Jacob and Esau from 
memory, and sang the " Glory" song and other songs in Eng- 
lish. Mr. Heinz, Mr. Hall, Miss Brown, and Mr. Kinnear 
spoke. 

I met here Dr. Gamewell, the hero of the Peking Legation 
defences when the Boxers besieged the legation for months. 
His wife, Mary Gamewell, whose life the Intermediate De- 



262 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

partment boys and girls are studying in America, was in bed 
at Kiukiang with a sprained ankle. 

I walked with Dr. Gamewell in the night through the 
narrow Chinese streets down to the boat landing. Dogs were 
prowling around. Bands of young men were assembled here 
and there, for there was much restlessness, owing to the 
opposition of the Governor here to President Yuan Shih-Kai. 
Through the city gate we went to the river side, where we 
saw the light of the steamer. Dr. Gamewell spoke of the 
China of thirty-five years ago when he first came here, when 
there was not a telegraph wire nor a railroad, and of the China 
of to-day and of to-morrow. And in our hearts there was a 
prayer that God would guide this vast empire out of the 
shadows to the brightness of a great destiny. 

Hankow, the last stop for our party on the Yangtse, is at 
the heart of China. Railroads from different directions 
converge here. It is the great tea market for China. The 
foreign concessions along the Bund are imposing as to build- 
ings and grounds. 

Upon arrival the party was taken to a noon luncheon 
tendered by the Chamber of Commerce. A large number of 
the members of the Chamber were present. 

The meeting was a unique affair, the intention being to give 
the visitors an idea of the regular session of the Chamber. 
The meeting opened with the ringing of a large bell. The 
president, Mr. Woo Yew-Rung, then took his place upon a 
high rostrum, and Mr. Heinz was invited to a seat beside him. 

Mr. Tsai, a former chairman of the Chamber, then delivered 
the address of welcome, saying: 

"Ladies and Gentlemen: To-day is the day for the 
welcome of the American Sunday School Commission by the 



UP THE YANGTSE 263 

Hankow Chamber of Commerce, which is representing all the 
merchants of this city. That the coming of our distinguished 
guests happens to be in this bright weather is indeed a matter 
of joy and pleasure to every one of us. 

"From time past China and America have forever been 
most friendly, and only four years ago we had the honor of 
being visited by the Commercial Party of your great country, 
the members of which we greatly enjoyed meeting, and those 
happy memories are still fresh in our minds. 

"Now our country has become a republic, and it was 
America who first recognized China as her sister-country. 
Taken from a national point of view, there is a special rela- 
tionship between these two countries. Taken from a com- 
mercial point of view, there is established a strong bond of 
mutual interest. The closer we draw together, the happier 
our countrymen will be. 

"To the ladies and gentlemen of the Sunday School Com- 
mission who have so kindly come to our country and who 
favor and honor us with their visit here to-day we extend 
our cordial and most hearty welcome. 

"The Hankow of to-day is not like the Hankow of old days, 
but there is great room for new methods and organizations in 
which we have to ask our American friends here to-day to 
direct and instruct us. We have always been aware not 
only of the friendliness that has been shown to us, but of the 
spirit and sincerity that have prompted the Americans to 
take such a course. 

"Words can hardly express our inward feelings of love, re- 
spect, and esteem for the Americans, and this tour party 
affords us an unparalleled opportunity to draw aside a little 
the veil of our hearts. We wish, with all sincerity and earnest- 
ness, that the tour party shall have a very happy time, a 
pleasant trip, a successful conclusion of their noble work, and 
a 'bon voyage' homeward." 

In reply, Mr. Heinz, pointing to the Chinese and American 
flags on either side of the platform, referred with pleasure to 
this token of the friendship of the two republics. He said 



264 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

he had been greatly impressed during his tour with the re- 
sources of China — the fertility of the soil and the splendid 
facilities for transport afforded by this waterway of the 
Yangtse. The country had lately passed through great suf- 
fering, but he was confident it would come triumphant out of 
its diflBiculties. It would produce its own Bismarck, who would 
bind the five great peoples into one. 

Mr. Heinz expressed the party's great appreciation of the 
welcome extended, and told of the purpose of the visit. He 
was proud of the fact that there were 16,000,000 pupils in the 
Sunday Schools of the United States and Canada. 

An excellent dinner in foreign style was served. A Chinese 
band furnished the music. Mr. Kinnear proposed the toast 
"The Two Repubhcs," which was heartily responded to. 

At the close, Mr. Heinz asked those present to raise one 
hand for China and one for America, and then join hands as a 
figure of miion. 

In the afternoon a delightful motor-boat trip was made 
through the shipping districts of the Yangtse and Han rivers. 
This was arranged through the courtesy of Mr. Wong Kwong, 
manager of the Yangtse Engineering Works. 

The following day, May 23d, was made memorable by the 
visit to General Li Yuen Hang, Vice-President of the Chinese 
Republic, who Hved across the river at Wu Chang. The 
party was received by his wife in the ofiicial residence. His 
family consists of three sons and two daughters, one of the 
sons being a baby in arms. 

While the guests were being served at the table with light 
refreshments. General Li entered, and after the members 
of the party were presented took his place at the head of 
the table. 

The private secretary of the General is Mr. Quo Tai Chi, 



IIP THE YANGTSE 265 

a graduate of the University of Pennsylvania, and he acted 
as interpreter. 

The Vice-President in a short address welcomed the party 
to Wu Chang, and referred to the cordial relations which have 
always existed between China and America and the great aid 
the United States had rendered the new republic by recogniz- 
ing it as a nation. He spoke of the new repubhc as a baby 
which needed careful nursing. 

Mr. Heinz made a brief reply and introduced Mr. Kjnnear, 
who spoke at some length upon the great political leaders 
who blaze the way in order that the people may easily follow; 
of the sacrifices necessarily made by such leaders, and of 
the necessity of their having divine leadership. 

After the address, General Li consented to have his picture 
taken with his farruly, but insisted upon having the baby 
awakened so as to be included. But the baby was out of 
humor when awakened, and cried so hard that the picture 
was finally taken without him. 

The party then proceeded to the Young Men's Christian 
Association building, and after luncheon at the homes of 
missionaries all assembled at the College Compound of the 
Protestant Episcopal Church Mission. The contrast between 
the large compoimd with its fine school buildings, library, 
chapel, and dormitory — all for the uplift of the people — and 
the low shops and narrow filthy streets teeming with human- 
kind without faith, or hope, or vision, was so great that it 
seemed like entering an oasis out of the desert of misguided 
humanity. 

At a five o'clock meeting of the students in the large chapel 
Mr. Heinz and Mr. Kinnear spoke on Christian education. 

The return journey to the river by the carts over the rough 
and uneven stones was a shaking-up to be long felt. The 



266 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

ride over the river to Hankow was accomplished in a Chinese 
covered junk, owing to the rain. 

A Chinese workers' conference and institute testified to 
the eagerness of these people for improvement. Mr. Tewks- 
bury explained the teacher training plans. As one result, 
Mr. T. L. Chang, the chairman of the Committee of Arrange- 
ments, a Sunday School enthusiast, and superintendent of the 
splendid Cathedral Simday School, advises that his Sunday 
School has voted that every teacher and officer in the Sunday 
School should take up a training course, and that twenty 
Chinese ladies have asked him to teach them the course. 

The mass meeting was held at the Cathedral. Bishop Root, 
whose ministries and statesmanship make him respected and 
beloved, presided. Previous to the meeting, through the 
courtesy of the Bishop, a reception to the party was held in 
his home. 

In the Cathedral Sunday School there is a cradle roll and 
home department and a graded school. Mr. Chang, the 
superintendent, is one of the most promising of Chinese 
Sunday School leaders. He has recently completed the fuU 
course for the Simday School Superintendent put out by the 
Board of Sunday Schools of the Methodist Church, and has 
his diploma. He attended the training school for workers at 
Peitaihow, where Mr. Tewksbury had some sixty young 
Chinese registered as students. 

A Sunday School Union for Hankow, Wu Chang, and Han- 
yang was one of the fruits of the Hankow visit. 

The last visit at Hankow was to the large hospital and 
school for the blind maintained by the Wesleyan Methodist 
Church of England. This hospital is one of the largest and 
best equipped in theOrient, and, with the school for the blind, is 
continuing Christ in the midst of the needy people of Hankow. 



CHAPTER XXVII 
PEKING, THE CITY OF THREE WALLS 



CHAPTER XXVII 

PEKING, THE CITY OF THREE WALLS 

At Peking the Hankow and Pukow parties joined forces to 
remain together until the end of the journey. The mission- 
aries had by this time dubbed us the "twenty-nine varieties," 
and I presume we were entitled to the name by the variation 
of smile, physique, talent, and disposition. But by the time 
we had reached the capital all conceit had been shaken out of 
us, we were ready to adjust ourselves to most conditions of 
life and fortune, and we were emphasizing the lines of main 
agreement rather than minor differences, if such appeared. 
At least such is the effect of travel. What particular varieties 
we represented is told only in the sanctum where the " twenty- 
nine" congregated. We were all ready to confess to the 
"pickle" experience, and the pace had been so fast that we 
knew from the necessity of hurrying what it was to "catch 
up" to schedule. And the "olive" oil" of harmony soothed 
our spirits often. 

The party approaching Peking from Hankow had a thirty- 
six hour railway journey through a level agricultural country, 
but a country parched by a long drought, with famine im- 
minent. We met groups of the tillers of the soil, discouraged 
by failure, on their way to the south. 

Long before entering Peking we knew from the long cara- 
vans of camels, with their burdens, that we were nearing the 
capital. The massive outer wall of the city came into view, 

269 



270 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

and the station. The faces of missionaries and old friends — 
of Dr. Lowry and Bishop Bashford and Dr. Martin — were 
a welcome sight after the long journey. 

The three days spent at Peking were marked by some 
memorable experiences. Through the courtesy of Mr. Wil- 
liams, the Charge d' Affaires at the American Embassy, an 
introduction of the party to Yuan Shih-Kai, the President of 
the Republic, had been arranged. The reception was held at 
the winter palace of the old Dowager Empress. A few months 
before, President Yuan had sent the young Manchu Emperor, 
who had been kept a virtual prisoner at the winter palace, to 
the Forbidden City, and the President himself took possession 
of the magnificent buildings and extensive grounds where the 
imperious Dowager Empress and her predecessors had se- 
cluded themselves, and to which foreigners came very rarely. 
Our party was the first large group of Americans to be 
admitted to the grounds. 

The palace grounds are surrounded by a body of water 
which they term the South Sea, from its geographical position. 
Our jinrikishas, about forty of them, wound around the For- 
bidden City, a section of Peking where the deposed Manchu 
Emperor and the Manchu adherents are living in magnificent 
yellow-tiled buildings, and supported by the money allowed 
them in the settlement with the republic. The Manchu 
women paint their faces rather extravagantly, and wear, as 
combs, fanlike structures of black, some of these combs about 
a foot high. The Manchu men are erect and fine specimens 
physically, with pride of race written on their faces. For 
more than 200 years they have dominated China, but their 
day has passed. They swept down from the north not 
far from Mongolia, from whose plateaus the conquering Huns 
and Tartars and Mongols moved westward to overrun Europe, 




LEAVING PEKING. S. W. CORNER TARTAR WALL 

GREAT IRON DOOR TO DRAGON THRONE, IMPERIAL PALACE, PEKING 

LAMA PRIESTS ENTERING TEMPLE, PEKING 




IN THE IMPERIAL PALACE GROUNDS, PEKING 
KINDERGARTEN CLASS, LI HUNG CHANG TEMPLE, TIENTSIN 



PEKING, THE CITY OF THREE WALLS 271 

The winter palace is reached only by water. Two royal 
fairy barges, nicely carpeted, were awaiting us, and we were 
pushed over the shallow sea to the palace grounds. We 
feasted our eyes upon a series of buildings roofed with yellow 
tiles, and decorated in the rich blues and reds and yellows of 
China. The art of making some of these colors has been 
lost. The grounds were broken up into gardens and summer 
houses. Odd-shaped volcanic rocks were placed about these 
gardens. There were covered walks, the ceilings and panels 
of which were beautifidly painted by famous artists in many 
varieties of Chinese scenery and customs and flowers and 
dishes. 

We were first conducted over a carpeted path to the beau- 
tiful reception room. Here, and in these grounds, the Dowa- 
ger Empress had held sway. Here the plans were developed 
to sweep Christianity out of China through the Boxer move- 
ment. She little thought that within a few months after her 
death a company of American Sunday School people would 
be entertained in her rooms and grounds by the President of 
the Chinese Republic, and that the same President should, 
by proclamation, ask all the Christians of China to pray for 
the welfare of that republic, which was foimded on the ruins 
of the Manchu dynasty. With us on this trip to the palace 
were Dr. Martin, China's oldest missionary, and Dr. Good- 
rich, both of whom were among those shut up in the siege at 
Peking, and who had lived to see this glad new day for 
China. 

In the President's reception room we were received by some 
of the high ofi&cials of the republic, including several generals 
and admirals and the President's secretary. Around the 
room, which was enclosed with glass, were rare specimens of 
Chinese porcelain, bronze, and some fine screens. At the Pres- 



272 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

ident's request, we were then conducted along the corridor 
with one side opening toward a little lake, beyond which were 
other buildings, to his private rooms. This, we learned, was 
an unusual honor. The room in which we were ushered was 
adorned with some wonderful vases and screens. We ar- 
ranged in a circle and soon the President came in, and, as we 
were introduced in turn, he gave each a cordial handshake and 
a gracious smile. Old Mr. Martin he greeted with two hands, 
recognizing him as the teacher of his sons and of many of his 
high officials. Dressed in plain military costume, President 
Yuan looked every inch a king. Dr. Martin afterward said 
that the short muscular limbs of the President suggested the 
pillars of Hercules. 

Mr. Heinz expressed for the party his appreciation of the 
opportunity of meeting the President, and the congratulations 
of America as a sister republic. The President spoke of the 
two republics in the similarity of their ideals and problems, 
and the necessity of close cooperation and of the sympathy 
and help of America in working out the plans and aims of the 
republic. He welcomed the tourists as citizens of that re- 
public and said, "From your country we derived inspiration 
in our struggle for freedom, and to your government we look 
for the best example of a great nation governed by a free 
people." He spoke of the need of capital in developing 
China's resources. 

He then urged that we walk about the grounds, and we were 
conducted by the secretary and several English-speaking 
Chinese about the gardens and to the pavilion which was 
shaped by the Dowager Empress in the form of the Chinese 
word or figure meaning happiness, and then to the island 
where the young Emperor was kept a virtual prisoner by the 
Dowager Empress, and where he died. The gorgeous color- 



PEKING, THE CITY OF THREE WALLS 273 

ings of these buildings could hardly be reproduced by a mod- 
ern artist. 

Nearby was the throne pavilion overlooking the lake or sea. 
Here was the marble throne where for generations the rulers 
of the greatest empire in the world had received the homage of 
a people. And now, one by one, the members of our party 
sat on this throne, emptied of its power and glory. Our 
pictures were taken at the bridge which shut the young Em- 
peror from the rest of the world. At the pavilion mineral 
water was furnished the party, and also at the reception room 
refreshments were served to us by oiir officials. One of these 
officials was the admiral of the old Manchu navy, who prac- 
tically settled the war by turning over the navy to the re- 
public's service. We left the palace impressed by the strong 
yet affable personality of the man upon whom so much de- 
pends at this juncture. He was businesslike, alert, keen, and his 
face showed evidences of the wear of his great responsibilities. 

Another unique event made our memories of Peking inter- 
esting. This was a banquet tendered the party by the Chinese- 
American Society, which promotes friendly relations between 
the two countries. A number of us are members of this 
society. The ride of an hour to the house of a former viceroy, 
where the banquet was held, was an experience in the sights, 
smells, and sounds of Peking. We went through clouds of 
dust, for Peking is noted for its dust storms. But we found a 
gracious welcome in the Chinese home and gardens of our 
hosts. We were served at once, as is usual, with tea, and then 
soon followed a Chinese feast. This is no mean affair. We 
counted no less than forty separate dishes. Some of these 
dishes were fearfully and wonderfully made. Nuts, fish, 
cherries, birds' nest soup, duck's eggs, shark's fins, and deli- 
cacies of a similar sort, made a repast thoroughly Chinese. 



274 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

The several addresses, which were made midway in the 
eating, were very strong. One of them was by Mr. Wu, who 
was last year Speaker of the Chinese House of Representa- 
tives. The other speaker was Mr. Wang, who is vice- 
president of the Senate, to whom reference has been made, and 
who is a yomig Chinese leader of great promise. He had his 
training in America and speaks English fluently. His ad- 
dress exalted the American home. He said: 



"It is a great pleasure for members of the Chinese- American 
Union to meet \nih those who have come from America on 
their way to the great Svmday School Convention in Switzer- 
land. We appreciate the value of your mission and vnsh you 
great success in considering the problems of the Sunday School. 

"It was my pri\TJege to study in America for four years, 
during which time I learned much about your country and its 
greatness. As secretary of the Chinese Young Men's 
Christian Association in the United States, I had the oppor- 
tunity of coming to know many Americans of all classes. I 
was in the homes of the rich and those of moderate circum- 
stances. I was in many city, as well as country, houses. 
Thus I came in close contact with American life in many 
aspects, but in all my stay in the United States that which 
impressed me most was the home life of the people. Amer- 
ica's greatness, I do not have the least doubt in my mind, 
depends upon the home. 

"I could understand why she is taking active part as one 
of the greatest nations in the world when I saw her people at 
home. It is the highest standards of cleanliness and orderli- 
ness of the American homes which leave their effect upon the 
village and the city. It is the deep spiritual life which makes 
possible the existence of harmony in an American family. 
Furthermore, the penchant of most Americans is toward 
economy and thrift. The economic development of the 
United States thus may be fairly traced to the good manage- 
ment of the home. 



PEKING, THE CITY OF THREE WALLS 275 

"The greatest hope I cherish for my own country is that 
its homes may be clean, orderly, happy, contented, and pros- 
perous. There must be first loyalty to the home if there is 
loyalty to the country. Make the home strong. If we can 
make every home self-supporting and respectable, then the 
nation will be but prosperous and happy. 

"I recognize that in all Christian countries the Sunday 
School is an important factor in developing these character- 
istics, that it keeps the great idea in the world before the 
children as they grow to manhood, that it works with the 
home in fostering the highest moral attributes, I have come 
to reahze that the religion of Jesus Christ is the corner-stone 
upon which true greatness is built. It is my sincere hope 
that Chma may accept Him as the leader of this new nation. 
We wish you Godspeed on your mission of makmg Him 
supreme." 

In the Chinese House and Senate, which was visited by our 
party through special permission, many of the leaders are 
young men and Christians. Before the repubUc it was not 
possible for a Christian to get elected to office. 

Our party was also privileged, through the good offices of 
our American Embassy, to visit the Wmter Palace, which is 
located a few miles out from Pekmg. This palace and at- 
tendant buildings and walks are constructed about a large 
lake. The money for this construction was appropriated 
by the Dowager Empress from funds subscribed by the people 
to carry on the Chinese-Japanese War, and this fact was 
largely accountable for the failure of China in that struggle. 
The old Empress certainly showed genius in spending the 
money upon the palace and grounds. The buildings included 
her apartments, which, as always in China, are constructed 
about an open court in which bushes and bronzes and foun- 
tains are placed. The colors do not vary much from the rich 
blues and reds and yellows. The Empress was a lover of 



276 A TOUR. OF THE ORIENT 

dramatic art, and indulged this fancy on barges which plied 
the lake. A large theatre on the shore was constructed, and 
we were shown to the room and seat from which she watched 
the theatrical effects. In China the plays are ordinarily 
moral affairs, the women's parts being taken by boys. 

Beyond the theatre of the Empress there was a series of 
buildings extending up the hillside, surmounted by one of 
imusual impressiveness overlooking the lake. In this was 
the throne of the Empress. Great marble steps, with carved 
balustrades, led up to these several buildings. They were 
tiled in gorgeous yellow. From these buildings a long covered 
walk decorated with Chinese panel paintings extended along 
the lake front; flanking this walk on either side was a row of 
cedars. This walk terminated at a marble boat with two 
decks and marble side wheels, the boat built out from the 
land and perfectly reflected in the water of the lake. 

You look out from the deck of this boat upon this fairyland 
in which for years riilers have lived in luxury out of wrongly 
gotten gains and graft, while the cries of the oppressed and 
diseased and famine-stricken millions rose to the God of 
Heaven. But a new day is dawning for oppressed China. 

Beyond the Summer Palace the road leads to Tsing Hua, 
or the Boxer Indemnity College. These buildings are erected 
out of the American indemnity paid by China in connection 
with the settlement for the Boxer troubles, and which, by the 
statesmanlike act of Secretary Hay, was returned to China 
for the education of the boys and young men of the empire 
to fit them for leadership. 

Seven years ago, while on my first visit to Japan and China, 
there was on the same Pacific steamer a large group of Amer- 
ican college young men and young women. Christians, who 
had been selected by Dr. Mott and others, at the request of 



PEKING, THE CITY OF THREE WALLS 277 

the Chinese Minister of Education, to become the teachers of 
this Tsing Hua School, and on this visit to Peking I was glad 
to find there seventeen, all but two of the original party. 
They are so happy in their work and surroundings that they 
had, with few exceptions, contracted to stay for another term. 
They had prepared a fine dinner for the visitors, topped off 
wdth delicious strawberries and ice cream, which, on that 
warm May day, were indeed refreshing. 

There are here 400 students from many of the provinces of 
China, picked young men, many of whom will become the 
leaders in government. As the result of the Mott-Eddy 
meetings at Peking, 100 of these students are now in Bible 
classes taught by these American college young people, 
and many of these students have openly confessed Christ. 
The far result of that act of Secretary Hay cannot be meas- 
ured. 

The visit to the British Legation, where the foreign com- 
mimity was besieged for so long during the Boxer uprising, 
was a thrilling event to us. We were fortunate in having 
with us as our guide Dr. Frederick Brown, now of the Peking 
University, who was the guide to the relieving troops from 
Tientsin to Peking, a position of grave danger and respon- 
sibility. He told the story to us in the chapel which sheltered 
eighty of the women and children during the long siege when the 
" Boxerdevils" were using every strategy possible to break in 
the compound. Strangely, no shot fell in the chapel. A brass 
eagle as a pulpit reading-desk testified to the gratitude of the 
Americans for the relief. Dr. Brown told of the dangers of 
the relieving force on the line of march from ambuscades in the 
tall grass. Later he pointed from the bridge down the canal 
which runs under the wall, and through which opening the re- 
lieving force came, up to their waists in deep mud, the canal 



278 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

swept meanwhile by the Chinese guns from the bridge. He 
showed us cannon shot on the wall of the compound. 
Over the spot in crude letters you can read, "Lest we forget." 
On the opposite side from the Legation gate we marked the 
place where sand bags were piled high, these bags made in 
part from the sUk skirts of the ladies in the compound. And 
not least in interest was the Catling gun on the wall, termed 
the International Gun, because made by four nations, and 
called "Betsy," as it kicked so hard when it was fired. 

When Dr. Martin hastened to the British Legation at the 
time of the uprising, his first words to Dr. Coodrich, another 
veteran missionary, as the gate closed behind him, were: 
"This marks the doom of paganism," and he has lived to 
partly realize his prophecy. 

Typhus was abroad in Peking while we were there. In the 
next building to where I was stopping one of the most skilful 
missionary physicians in China died of typhus during our 
stay — contracted while attending a Chinese who had the 
fever. It is this splendid devotion of the missionaries through 
these years that has laid the foxmdation for Christianity in 
China. As one Chinese said of a medical missionary: "He 
must have spoken the truth, for all he got out of it was a grave 
in China." So the coral insect dies, but thecoral island steadily 
rises to God's blue sky against the pressure of the sea. 

Three rallies of the Sunday School Christian forces oc- 
curred at Peking. One was a reception by the missionaries, at 
which the veteran Dr. Goodrich, Mr. Harrison, Mr. Stafford, 
and others spoke. As a Canadian Mr. Harrison's inter- 
esting message was greatly enjoyed by the British as well 
as the American missionaries present. Later the Chinese 
workers met for an institute, at which teacher training certifi- 
cates were presented by Mr. Heinz. 



PEKING, THE CITY OF THREE WALLS 279 

The final meeting in the city was a Sunday School rally, 
with 1,200 present, at the chapel of the University of Peking, 
that splendid institution of which Dr. Lowry is president. 
Years ago Mr. Heinz had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Lowry 
at Peking, and the two have been fast friends ever since. The 
university is a credit to Christianity in its imposing buildings, 
the personnel of its faculty, the high quality of its students, 
and in its output of trained men, who go out into a wide field 
of service. Several have become governors, and the demand 
upon its graduates for the leadership of the new China is 
greater than its ability to supply. 

Above aU, this university needs a department for training 
Simday School leaders for the north, as Nanking University 
needs such a department for Central China, and Dr. Lowry 
is anxious to install such a department as soon as funds make 
it possible. 

The crowning event of our stay in Peking will be related 
in the next chapter. 



CHAPTER XXVIII 
CHINA'S MOST SACRED SPOT 



CHAPTER XXIII 

china's most sacred spot 

The most fascinating event in the entire program for China 
was the visit to the Temple and Altar of Heaven, a short dis- 
tance outside the walls of Peking. 

This is the most interesting place in China. Worship at 
this spot has been conducted since 1644 a. d., and worship 
in China after this manner dates from at least 2000 b. c. 
This place was reserved for the worship of the Emperor, and 
this form of worship has been reserved for the Emperor for 
3,000 years. Hence, had any person presumed to go to this 
altar and openly worship the God of Heaven at this spot 
before the fall of the Manchu dynasty, he would have been 
arrested and executed for high treason, on the ground that he 
was assuming the highest function of the Emperor. The 
visit of our party to this sacred place on May 26th marks the 
first time in history when the Chinese people and representa- 
tives from America and England have united in worship at 
this altar, although some services had been held previously 
under the Y. M. C. A. 

Before the Emperor conducted this worship himself the 
Chinese people had worshipped the one true God at altars 
throughout China. When the Emperor took over this wor- 
ship to himself the people turned desperately to idols. 

You will understand, therefore, how glad we were to take 
part in a great Sunday School Field Day at this temple or 
in the woods surrounding the temple. 

283 



284 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

To reach this spot we took jinrikishas, passing the splendid 
legation quarter of the city, and then through the arched 
gateways in the three walls of the city. These gates consist 
of iron, and are enormous. We pass the busy market quarter 
just without the. last wall, and then take the highway leading 
to the splendid park, a mile square, which encloses the build- 
ings of the Temple of Heaven. The buildings themselves are 
enclosed by a high wall. No woman, not even the Empress 
Dowager herself, could penetrate to the enclosure within those 
walls. 

The Sunday Schools of Peking were gathered in the park 
for their great Field Day, the first of its sort attempted in 
Peking. The beautiful silk dresses of the girls, the choicely 
embroidered banners, the happiness on the faces of all, 
marked off this as a day of days. 

After brief addresses by Dr. Smith, who is one of China's 
favorite missionary authors, the company entered through an 
ornamented gateway into the temple grounds. At the end 
nearest the entrance there rises a lofty tower covered with 
tiles whose "hue rivals the azure of the skies." At the base 
of this building is a platform of marble, reached by a series 
of steps, the marble composing the side stones handsomely 
carved to represent dragons and flowers. 

To this building it was the custom of the Emperor to come 
to pray for fruitful seasons. On the annual day of sacrifice 
the highways leading to the temple were sprinkled with clean 
sand. No one was to look upon the Emperor as he passed 
on to the temple. He would spend a part of the time in 
prayer at the "Temple of Heaven," as the first building was 
termed. He would then go through a carved gateway leading 
to a marble tiled walk, on either side of which were pedestals 
for torches, for the annual sacrificial service was held at night. 




TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, PEKING 

ALTAR OF BURNT OFFERING 

BIBLE TR.A.NSLATION COMMITTEE 





PLATFORM OF ALTAR OF HEAVEN, PEKING 
ASCENDING THE ALTAR STEPS 



CHINA'S MOST SACRED SPOT 285 

At one side is a spot where a tent was erected, and the garments 
of the Emperor changed for those of a priestly nature. Far- 
ther on is another pagoda, not quite as high as the first. 
Nearby the Emperor each spring plowed a few furrows, as 
an example, to honor industry. Another tiled walk leads us 
through a gate which is the entrance to a large court. There 
are two gates in each of the remaining sides of the court, the 
whole wonderfully like the plan of Solomon's temple. Gates 
lead to two other courts, the Altar of Heaven standing in the 
centre of the last court. The altar is a platform approached 
by nine marble steps, the side ornamentation being in the 
form of dragons. In the centre of the platform is an orna- 
mental pedestal, handsomely carved, the very heart of the 
whole construction. This was ruthlessly broken by the sol- 
diers when Peking was entered, and the shattered pieces 
lie about the platform. Nine stones compose the inner circle 
of the platform, the next circle eighteen, and the ninth row 
eighty-one, the figure nine being dominant in the general 
plan. Beyond the altar stands a high altar of burnt offering, 
hollow in the centre, and approached by nine steps. Here 
the Emperor offered a bullock for the people's sins, and sent 
up in flames to the supreme ruler of the kings of the earth a 
list of criminals condemned to death. When we were there 
a Chinese boy sat at the top of this altar, a type of the new 
China, whose leaders are giving themselves in sacrifice for the 
sake of the China that is to be. 

Beyond the altar of burnt offering are nine great iron urns 
for lesser sacrifices. 

As I thought of these courts, the altar, the sacrifices for 
sin, the annual confession of the Emperor as priest, I went 
back to the Temple of Old Jerusalem, its courts, the sacrifice 
for sin, its High Priest and the Day of Atonement, and I 



286 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

wondered what relation there might be between the two. It 
seemed to indicate that the original worship of the world was 
that of one God, and that the multiplying of objects of worship 
was the invention of man or the devil. And now the effort 
is to turn back the Orient to its great spiritual source. 

Bishop Bashford, whose influence in the reconstruction of 
China has been so marked, said that this place — the Altar 
of Heaven — was to him the most sacred spot in the world, 
because of its past, its recognition of the one true God, which 
might be a rallying point for a new China. 

The dedication of this altar, therefore, by the united mis- 
sionary and Chinese Christian representatives, and by the 
Simday School forces of China through the leaders present, 
while a simple, yet was a deeply impressive, service, for here 
in China was a relic of a religion practised when Melchisedek 
was priest of the Most High God. 

We all stood on the platform of the Altar of Heaven. The 
Sim's heat was intense. The services opened impressively by 
singing in English "Holy, Holy, Holy! Lord God Almighty." 
Dr. W. A. P. Martin, eighty-six years old, and for sixty-three 
years a missionary in China, and the oldest living missionary 
there, read in Chinese the 90th Psalm. Rev. Frederick 
Brown of the Methodist Church followed, reading in English 
Paul's address on Mars Hill concerning the one true God 
"whom ye ignorantly worship." Then came a prayer in 
Chinese, offered by Rev. Mr. Meech of the London Mission. 

Bishop Bashford's solemn, majestic prayer of dedication, 
follows: 

"Almighty and ever-living God, Thou hast made of one 
every nation of men to dwell on all the face of the earth; hav- 
ing determined appointed seasons and the bounds of their 
habitations, that they should seek Thee if haply they might 



CHINA'S MOST SACRED SPOT 287 

feel after Thee, and find Thee though Thou art not far from 
each one of us. And now we, Thy children of alien tongues 
and nations, bow before Thee on this hallowed spot confessing 
Thy goodness, bewailing our sins, and seeking to know our 
duty. Some of our fathers have worshipped Thee for forty 
centuries after the manner of this place, with a veil cast over 
their eyes, and yet with Thy love manifested by the preser- 
vation of the nation. The times of this ignorance Thou 
hast overlooked; but now commandest men that they should 
all everywhere repent, inasmuch as Thou hast appointed a 
day in which Thou wilt judge the world in righteousness by 
the Man whom Thou hast ordained; whereof Thou hast given 
assurance to all men in that Thou hast raised Him from the 
dead and hast highly exalted Him that in the name of Jesus 
every knee should bow, of things in heaven and things on 
earth and things under the earth, and that every tongue should 
confess that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the glory of God, the 
Father. 

*' We thank Thee that Jesus Christ having ascended on high 
has sent forth the Holy Spirit. We thank Thee that the Holy 
Spirit has inspired a revelation of Thy will, to make known 
the ways of life; that He has created a living church; that he 
has redated history, reorganized society, and is going forth 
conquering and to conquer. We thank Thee, O Thou blessed 
Spirit, that Thou hast borne witness in our hearts of divine 
pardon of our sins; that Thou art revealing to all men Thy 
mighty works in increasing knowledge, multiplying invention, 
annihilating space, bridging oceans, establishing justice in the 
earth, enlarging the sympathies of races, setting aside false 
religions, overturning outworn empires. We thank Thee 
that China in convulsions has called upon the Living God for 
help, that this call has sounded forth unto the ends of the 
earth, and that people in all nations have bowed in prayer 
in behalf of this republic. Almighty and Omnipresent 
Father, for the sake of Jesus Christ our Saviour, hear our 
united cry for this nation. Recreate China by granting 
through Jesus Christ our Lord regeneration to the Chinese. 
Give the Parliament unity, incorruptibility, and a sound mird: 



288 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

guide the members in drafting a constitution and in selecting 
a president ; preserve his Hfe, and may he rule in the fear of 
God and in the interests of the people. May all the assem- 
blies and the officers of the provinces and the nation be guided 
in ordaining just laws and in carrying them out without fear 
or favor. Strengthen them in maintaining peace, in estab- 
lishing industry, and in laying broad and deep the foimda- 
tions of education upon the Rock of Ages. Bless the common 
people, the fathers and mothers and the children, and grant 
that through the preaching of Thy word, and through the 
Sunday Schools springing up in every \illage, all may learn 
the way home. Save China and all the nations of the earth, 
we beseech Thee, through Thine infinite mercy and Thine 
almighty power. To this end bless Thy church in this land 
and in all lands, and may all Christians walk the earth not 
after the law of a carnal commandment, but by the power of 
an endless life. 

''For tliis cause we bow our knees unto the Father, from 
whom every family in heaven and on earth is named, that He 
would grant us according to the riches of his glory that we 
may be strengthened A\-ith power through His spirit in the 
inward man, that Christ may dwell in our hearts through 
faith, to the end that we being rooted and grounded in lo^•e 
may be strong to apprehend with all the saints what is the 
breadth and length and height and depth and to know the 
love of Christ which passeth knowledge, that we may be filled 
unto all the fulness of God. 

"Now unto Him that is able to do exceeding abundantly 
above all we ask or think, according to the power that worketh 
in us, unto Him be the glory in the Church and in Christ 
Jesus unto all generations, for ever and ever. .\men." 

Follo\\'ing this impressi\'e prayer, during the offering of 
which all seemed to feel the near presence of the x\lmighty. 
Pastor Li, of the American Congregational Church, led the 
audience in the Lord's Prayer, and the service was closed 
with the benediction bv Dr. Goodrich. 



CHINA'S MOST SACRED SPOT 289 

Since this dedication the papers have reported the restora- 
tion of Confucianism in China by example and edict of the 
President. Too much emphasis should not be laid upon this, 
for the reasons governing the step may be largely political and 
in order to retain the support of the conservative Confucian 
element for the government program, in view of the dissolu- 
tion of the Chinese Parliament, which represented in good 
measure the progressive elements of young China. At heart 
it is not believed President Yuan has changed from his favor- 
able attitude to Christian progress. It is not desired by those 
who understand the situation that Christianity should be 
recognized as the State religion. All that is desired is a fair 
field for its work, and this is guaranteed under the new con- 
stitution. The leaven can be trusted to do its own work of 
permeating the mass. 



CHAPTER XXIX 
TIENTSIN 



CHAPTER XXIX 

TIENTSIN 

We left Peking May 2 2d in a comfortable day coach bound 
for Tientsin, from which place the relieving force came that 
fought the Boxers nearly every step of the way to Peking. 
Since that event both at Tientsin and Peking a large force of 
foreign soldiers is attached to each legation, and ample guns 
and ammunition are stored to withstand future sieges. 

We reached Tientsin at 12 o'clock. Tientsin is a smart 
Chinese city. Crowds are coming and going in the streets, 
which are broader than in many Chinese cities, as a part of the 
city was burned during the battle with the Boxers and has 
been rebuilt on modern lines. Jinrikisha men shout for right 
of way; carriages and cabs bearing ofiScials and prominent 
citizens are mounted and driven by coachmen and footmen 
adorned with tasseled hats and braid. 

After locating at the homes of missionary friends we were 
driven to the Provincial Club, where an elegant dinner was 
given in our honor by the Governor and government officials 
of the Province of Chili. 

At the table there were five graduates of American univer- 
sities, bright fellows now in official position in the province. 
One of them was revising the system of taxation for the prov- 
ince, seeking to apply taxes justly, and to correct the graft, 
which has been a millstone around the neck of China. An- 
other is a physician, and has a brother now in America quah- 

293 



294 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

fying as a food expert. This naturally interested Mr. Heinz 
very much. The influence of the American universities 
upon China is shown by the fact that nearly 500 of those in 
attendance at the Y. M. C. A. Conference at Peking a few 
years ago had attended American colleges. 

Other guests included Mr. S. S. Knabenshue, the American 
Consul General at Tientsin; Mr. F. P. Joselyn, Commissioner 
for Foreign Affairs ; Mr. Hsu Su Yuan, the Commissionor for 
Civil Affairs; Mr. Liu, the Commissioner of Education; Mr. 
Tsai Chih Keng, and the Commissioner of Industry, Mr. Tsu; 
Mr. and Mrs. Hersey, of the Young Men's Christian Asso- 
ciation; Mr. and Mrs. St. John, of the Methodist Mission, and 
Mr. and Mrs. Evans of the Peiyang University. 

The address of welcome by the Governor was interpreted 
for the visitors by Mr. Lingoh Wang, adviser to the Bureau of 
Finance, and is translated here by kindness of Mr. Liu Yao 
Ysung, Director of Finance. 

"On behalf of the people of the city of Tientsin, as well as 
of the people of the Province of Chili, I extend to you, ladies 
and gentlemen, a most cordial welcome. I hope you will 
find your visit here most pleasant and successful. 

"It is gratifying to all of us, I am sure, that China and the 
United States have always been good friends. During the 
many years of commercial intercourse between our two na- 
tions we have ever maintained an increasingly close and 
cordial relation. 

"My fellow-countrymen highly admire the American peo- 
ple; new ideas and new ideals coming from America always 
find ready disciples in China. 

"The idea of representative government had its root in the 
West, but it is in the United States that it has been made to 
grow to its present standard of perfection. 

"We have long cherished the desire of following the good 
example set up by the United States; with perseverance and 



TIENTSIN 295 

unity of action we have now succeeded in establishing a rep- 
resentative government in China. 

"Now, you ladies and gentlemen have visited many parts; 
you have made observations and investigations of the great 
changes that have taken place, and are still taking place in this 
land of ours. I beg you to give us your opinions, and to offer 
us some advice, which, I am sure, will prove of immense help 
to us in carrying on our task and impro\'ing the conditions 
of affairs. 

"In America the system of education has been highly de- 
veloped. In China the system is still in its infancy. We 
have much to learn from you. I hope you are wiUing teachers 
as we are willing students. 

"There is now a good republic on each side of the Pacific; 
they have similar forms of government; they have similar 
ideas and ideals. The people of our two great nations should 
cooperate in increasing the welfare of humanity and in 
maintaining the peace of the world. 

"Now I beg you to join me in drinking the health of the 
Great American RepubHc, and of the members of the World's 
Sunday School Commission." 

Speaking on behalf of his fellow-workers, Mr. H. J. Heinz, 
the chairman of the commission, said: 

"We are very glad to come to China at such a time as the 
present. There are single years, and even da3'-s, that make 
history very rapidly. Those days and years are the cul- 
mination of years of quiet growth. As a volcano quietly ac- 
cumulates power through the years, so do nations. The 
labors and tears of many years have had their harvest in this 
great China during the past few months. We are glad to be 
here and witness in part China's splendid progress. The 
nation we represent has taken this new republic by the hand, 
and we are glad to introduce her into the growing sisterhood of 
self-governing nations. Henceforth China will stand be- 
side the United States — the two greatest republics in the 
world. 



296 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

"The World's Sunday School Commission heartily wel- 
comes China to this great and growing body. We are not, 
however, a political body, but a nimiber of business men in- 
terested in China's people. We represent a book — the 
Bible — and the school where the Bible is the only text- 
book.^ That book has made England and America what 
they are, and we recommend it to China as a solution of 
some of the great problems which confront her." 

The other speeches had reference to the World Commis- 
sion's work, and Sunday School work generally, and not a few 
speakers touched on the subjectof the exceedingly happy inter- 
relationship of China and America at the present moment. 

When the members of the party politely decHned the wine 
offered, the Director of Finance in surprise asked if this was 
usual in America, and was told that the sentiment was grow- 
ing for prohibition. He said they were going to fight opium 
and liquor with America. And not long after, in this very 
city of Tientsin, $60,000 worth of opium was pubKcly burned 
in nine great cauldrons. At that affair music was provided 
by a band, and great enthusiasm prevailed and addresses 
were made by Mr. Chang Pao Ling and Mr. E. W. Thwing, 
the latter Secretary of the International Reform Bureau in 
China. 

After the banquet Professor Roper entertained the officials 
with his skilful piano recitation, including the chimes, a new 
thing for China. 

The party then adjourned to the spacious grounds adjoin- 
ing the Methodist Compoimd, to enjoy, with the Simday 
Schools of Tientsin, the field sports, and to watch the ma- 
noeuvres of the splendid regiment of Chinese merchant volun- 
teers dressed in khaki uniforms. These men have so or- 
ganized in order to protect their shops from looting in time of 



TIENTSIN 297 

trouble, and they showed the result of fine drill work. The 
field sports included a tug of war, searching for peanuts in the 
grass, and day fireworks which liberated to view a paper 
rooster and a whale. 

' After the drill an address was made by Mr. Slang Kung 
Sheng, a merchant, captain of the volunteers, who said: "We 
must have a Christian heart. We must do things that will 
give the American business people confidence in us to make 
our industries thrive. I hope that we shall keep our friend- 
ship strong." 

One of the speakers, in replying, suggested that as China had 
taken America's constitution, the next largest service America 
could render was to give China America's classic, the Bible, 
to foundation the nation in true character and to preserve 
the nation for its great destiny. 

An interesting incident occurred while Mr. Heinz and Mr. 
Kinnear were on the way to the evening function. The car- 
riage driver in livery and tasseled hat, doubtless feeling the 
importance of the occasion, snapped his whip at a coolie and 
was arrested. The crowd gathered quickly, and was getting 
quite excited and threatening, when Mr. Heinz, with quick 
intuition, arose in the carriage, waved his arms, and shouted, 
"Hurrah for America!" The crowd laughed, and a lady 
missionary, coming up at the moment, explained to the crowd 
who the visitors were, and the affair blew over. 

This evening banquet by the Chamber of Commerce was a 
full dress function and a brilliant aSair. The Provincial Band, 
one of the finest we had heard in China, played Chinese 
and American national airs. It was blood-stirring to hear 
"America," "Yankee Doodle," and "The Star-Spangled 
Banner " played so correctly, and with such enthusiasm, by 
these Chinese who had so recently themselves tasted the 



298 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

sweets of liberty, and imagination ran riot as one thought of 
the nation to be, if only Christ were incorporated as the moral 
and religions dynamic of this people. 

The walls were hung profusely with flowers and the flags 
of the two nations, and special mottoes of welcome were dis- 
played about the room. Over the door was a special expres- 
sion in Chinese of the unity of the two nations. 

The toastmaster was a Harvard man, and very gracious. 
All the addresses were in English and for the large part of 
the company did not need interpretation 

The Consul General made a brief address, and several of the 
party in their addresses referred to the necessity for the in- 
clusion of Christianity in the business assets of the Chinese 
nation; that the real wealth of the nation was in the children 
and yoimg people who were to succeed the men of the present, 
and who must be trained to best standards of righteousness if 
a strong China were to result, and if the republic were to per- 
manently endure. 

In reply to the address of welcome Mr. Kinnear spoke as 
follows: 

"Mr. Toastmaster, Ladies, and Gentlemen: The very 
apt storj' told by the toastmaster, illustrating how the 
honor of presiding here this evening was thrust upon him, 
applies equally well to the present speaker. On accoimt of 
the absence of the chairman of our commission, Mr. Heinz, 
the honor, as well as the embarrassing position of trying to 
represent another, was thrust upon me. 

"This is the first pubHc entertainment given us during our 
journey through the Orient where all present are English 
scholars and are able to vmderstand English, so we feel very 
much at home to-night, especially so as the interrupter with 
whom we have become very intimate of late, is notable only 
for his absence. 




CH-A3IBER OF COMIVIERCE BANQUET, TIENTSIN 
SUNDAY SCHOOL FIELD DAY, TIENTSIN 




''WITH SOLEMN STEP AXD SLOW" 

AN ANCIENT GRIST MILL 

FAMINE REFUGEES GOING SOUTHWARD 



TIENTSIN 299 

" It is a great thing to be in China at this time. We believe 
this is a history-making epoch in your great country. By far 
the oldest nation of the world — the Chinese Empire, a nation 
which served its day and generation well — has just given 
way to the RepubHc of China. So we are standing to-day, 
as it were, not only by the new tomb of this ancient empire, 
but by the cradle of a new nation with all its future and 
possibilities before it, 

"A few days ago we visited the general assembly of the new 
republic at Peking, and, as we witnessed the proceedings, a 
severe contention arose on the floor of the assembly. For a 
little while affairs assumed an almost warlike condition. We 
were a little afraid the new baby would scratch itself; but the 
storm soon abated and tranquillity reigned again. 

"We discovered while there that the leaders of the new 
republic are largely young men, men who have come in con- 
tact with the world at large and have felt the heart throbs of 
the nations of the western world. 

"I wish I could whisper into the ears of these yoimg men 
who are leaders in this latest movement of the political world, 
as a guide to their public lives, these words of our Lord and 
Master spoken while on earth to his disciples: 'Whosoever 
will be great among you shall be your minister, and whosoever 
of you will be the chief est shall be servant of all.' 

"We who are here to-night as your guests are optimists of 
the first rank. (Svmday School workers cannot be pessimists.) 
We believe that the world is growing better every day. To be 
sure, you cannot see this progress from day to day, but when 
you review a century, or even a half or a quarter of a century, 
the improvement of the world conditions is readily discernible. 

"We congratulate you to-night upon the safe launching of 
your new great ship of state, the Chinese Republic. It will 
not always have smooth sailing. Occasionally storms will 
arise, angry seas will rage about it, and tidal waves may almost 
engulf it. But it is our hope and prayer that Almighty God, 
the God of all nations, may safely pilot your new nation 
through all the difficulties and trials which are sure to beset 
it, and that it may become not only one of the greatest nations 



300 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

of the world, but one whose flag will mean protection, peace, 
and happiness to all its subjects, and a guaranty, to every one 
within its boundaries, of the right to worship God according 
to the dictates of his own conscience." 

The entire party was deeply stirred by the cordial spirit of 
these hosts and the sincere expression of appreciation and 
good will. 

In the morning Miss Brown and Mr. Tewksbury con- 
ducted a workers' institute on lesson preparation and elemen- 
tary work in a Chinese Christian Church. This church is 
undenominational. There is a strong movement in China in 
favor of eliminating denominational lines, and to establish a 
National Christian Church which shall not import the dif- 
ferences which have divided the Christian body in America 
into denominations. Many wise leaders are heartily in favor 
of this union Chinese movement as tending to make a strong, 
unified Chinese Church. 

The Sunday School mass meeting in the afternoon in Li 
Hung Chang's Temple was a great afi'air. This temple was 
erected for public gatherings by a grateful people in memory of 
China's great statesman. 

There was a splendid demonstration on the stage by a model 
Chinese Simday School kindergarten class of forty. This was 
planned by Miss Lewis, the daughter of Bishop Lewis of 
China, but the lesson was taught by a Chinese teacher. The 
children sat in little chairs. There was a short prayer, the 
children kneeling; then joining hands, they sang "Yes, Jesus 
loves me." Three girls recited the 23d Psalm. They marched 
around and dropped their Chinese coin offering in a glass dish, 
the piano playing a march song. The circle then divided 
into classes of four each, and the children knelt before the 
chairs and did their home work. 



TIENSTIN 301 

The lesson on Jacob's sons selling Joseph was taught by a 
Chinese girl, a head nurse in the Government Woman's Medi- 
cal School, the only such school in China, The dean of that 
school, Yaman Kiu, is a Christian woman, adopted by a 
missionary when young, and was educated in America. A 
good-bye song, and the children marched out. 

The address of welcome to the party at the temple gather- 
ing was made by Rev. K. C. Tseng, pastor of the Methodist 
Church. 

The principal address was made by a remarkable Chinese, 
Mr. Chang-Pao-Ling, principal of the Nan-Kai Middle School. 
This man had a wonderful conversion out of a condition of 
despair through having his attention drawn to the Bible as a 
book that might help him. The reading of the Bible and 
prayer brought him to Christ. He immediately started to 
put his faith into practice. He declined to make obeisance 
to Confucius, as was required in the Chinese schools, but was 
so valuable as an educator and so popular with his scholars 
that the government finally made him a Fish Commissioner, 
and sent him to America to relieve them from an embarrassing 
situation. But Chang-Pao-Ling talked about Simon Peter 
the fisherman, in making the addresses in connection with his 
new appointment. Upon his return to China an immense 
reception was given him by 5,000 students of Tientsin, and the 
government reinstated him as principal. He is one of the 
outstanding Christian leaders in China. His address is worth 
noting. He said: 

"The visit of the party has changed our idea of the Sunday 
School. We find now that business and professional men are 
interested in the Sunday School and in active Christian work. 

"In Tientsin in the last two months even commercial men 
have been baptized. The party has shown that the work of 



302 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

teaching is no longer the work of scholars. I hope that through 
the visit of this party all classes of society will take part in the 
work of the Sunday School. I hope that as the party goes 
on to Switzerland they may be blessed more than ever in the 
discussions of the convention. 

"We have passed from the days of the empire. Formerly 
the scholar was everything. How shall China be prepared 
for its responsibility as a republican government? There is 
now more or less of confusion after a short trial. We must 
use also from foreigners those things that can be adapted to 
our government, and the thing of largest importance to adopt 
is Christianity. We must put away selfishness and be pa- 
tient. Christianity will help us to be patient. We must have 
a religion sufl&cient to lift not one country, but the world. We 
need the Sunday School to lift China." 

In reply to the welcome, Mr. Heinz said: 

"I had the pleasure of meeting your illustrious leader, Li 
Himg Chang, on his visit to America many years ago, when 
America sought to honor him. You have honored him and 
honored yourselves in the erection of this beautiful building 
to his memory. I visited his birthplace eleven years ago when 
in China. 

"The Sunday School is the best business investment in the 
world. It is the greatest living force in the world. We hope 
the boys and girls of China will flock to the Simday School, 
where the Bible is the one text-book, and Jesus Christ is 
taught as the world's Saviour." 

Professor Roper's piano variations were a source of great 
amusement and interest to the large audience. 

On June ist, the Sunday following the arrival of the party, 
a second day of prayer for the new republic was called for in 
Tientsin. Over 8,000 Buddhists, Taoists, Confucianists, and 
Christians were united in prayer at a mass gathering. In 
planning for the meeting, the question arose between the rep- 



TIENTSIN 303 

resentatives of the several religions as to what God the 
prayer should be made. After discussion, all agreed upon 
prayer to the " Supreme Ruler of the Universe," which was 
the suggestion of the Christians, a remarkable concession to 
the dominancy of Christian ideals, and a prophecy, too, of the 
time to come. It was an expression, too, of the breadth of 
viewpoint of the priests of these religions, which are so largely 
decadent, based on a conviction as stated by many of them 
that their religions lack the element of love and vital spirit- 
uality which they recognize in Christianity. 

Yuan Shih-Kai, the President of the Republic, was Governor 
of this province when the secret order came from the Empress 
to kill all foreigners. On his own responsibility, he de- 
clined to obey the order, and protected the foreigners, chang- 
ing the wording of the order from "kill" to " protect." Since 
his elevation to the Presidency, he has shown many exidences 
of his interest in Christianity, in receiving Christian delega- 
tions, in endorsing the splendid hospital and philanthropic 
work of the missionaries, and in placing his own sons in care 
of Dr. Martin, the veteran missionary, for tutoring. 

At Tientsin a remarkable situation was developed by the 
laying of the cornerstone of the new Young Men's Christian 
Association building. It is thought by some in America 
that the Chinese are doing but little to help themselves, but 
at Tientsin they have themselves purchased the ground for a 
Y. M. C. A. building at a cost of $20,000, and during one 
year raised for building and running expenses, $68,000. Mr. 
C. T. Wang made the address at the laying of the corner- 
stone, and President Yuan Shih-Kai sent a telegram of con- 
gratulation. The entire Board of Control, here as in many 
other places, is Chinese, one of these being Mr. Chang-Pao- 
Ling, the Vice-President of the Edinburgh Continuation Com- 



304 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

mittee. This association, under Mr. Hersey's direction, is 
doing magnificent work, especially among the large number of 
students in the government schools. Fifty Bible classes 
have been organized in the recent past with 450 students. 
Out of that number 46 had been baptized up to the time of 
our visit. 

And this support by the Chinese of Christian work awaits 
only a demonstration to the community of the practical value 
of what Christianity is doing. The hospital and educational 
work introduced by missions is winning an increasingly 
generous support from the Chinese. "By their fruits ye 
shall know them." 



CHAPTER XXX 
KALGAN AND MUKDEN 



CHAHTER XXX 

KALGAN* AND MUKDEN 

These two large cities, well to the north of Peking and 
Tientsin, are of more than ordinary interest. They are both 
situated beyond the Chinese wall — Kalgan near Mongolia, 
and Mukden in Manchuria. From Manchuria have come 
the conquerors of China, and from Mongolia the restless, 
roving hordes that have in centuries past descended upon 
Europe. 

While the main party was at Peking, Dr. Wilbur went 
northward to visit the interesting and important mission 
station at Kalgan. 

Kalgan is one hundred and twenty miles to the northwest 
of Peking, and is reached by a Chinese government railroad, 
the first railroad built by a Chinese engineer. The engineer 
is a graduate of our schools — the Sheffield Scientific School 
of Yale University. The railroad has now been open for five 
years, and appears to be standing the test of use very well. 
In the distance named there is an up grade of 2,500 feet. 
The tremendous rush of water in the rainy season made some 
vexatious washouts the first year, but adjustments were made 
to carry off the excessive flow of that period, and trains are 
now being run with the regularity of our own, but not with 
the same frequency. There is one through train each way 
per day, and the time of travel is seven hours up and six 

* The Kalgan portion written by Dr. Wilbur. 

307 



3o8 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

hours down. The fare is $5.40 Mexican, second class, and 
$10 first class. Mexican is equal to 50 cents of our money. 
Third class is carried also. The first is equal to our day coach, 
the second has a very hard board seat, and there is no carpet 
or upholstering of any kind; the third is a cattle car, and it 
carries most of the passengers. No dining-car is run, but 
boiled eggs can be secured on the platforms, out of a basket 
of otherwise uneatable Chinese food, and tea is made by the 
train "boy." He has a little charcoal furnace, and will give 
you hot water for a half cent. Be sure, however, not to call 
him "George" or "Charlie," or any other conventional name. 
His official name is just "boy." That name is on his arm or 
cap and he is inclined to take offence at any other, if he knows 
what name is being applied to him. 

The first twenty miles out of Peking is through a rich 
plain, and then begins a gentle rise through the foothills of 
the mountains. Fifty miles brings us to the centre of the 
moimtain range. In passing through these moimtains the 
Great Wall of China is passed twice. The first passage is 
under the wall by tunnel; the second passage goes through it. 
Here Old China must give way to New China. The northern 
foothills are sandy and desolate; and in many places where 
the winds draw through the breaks in the hill the sand drifts 
and stands in great ridges, as the snow blows and lodges in 
our own country in winter. Soon a richer country is reached, 
where irrigation is seen, and then comes the well-watered 
plain in which Kalgan stands. 

We had the pleasure of the company of Rev. Mr. Dier- 
berger, wife, and boy, from Peking. At the Kalgan station 
Mr. Heininger met us with enough of the Peking springless 
mule carts, so characteristic of middle and northern China, to 
convey us to the mission compound. In these an entirely 



KALGAN AND MUKDEN 309 

new experience awaited us, of which we prefer to say nothing 
— the very remembrance is a horror. On our arrival at the 
compound the scene that presented itself was truly Oriental, 
almost to the last detail. Several Rebekahs were drawing 
water from a creaking well; the cows were being milked, while 
calves frisked about them, awaiting their turn for nourish- 
ment; oxen, detached from their carts, had already eaten their 
fodder, and were contentedly chewing the cud; mules and 
donkeys were moving about, lashing the thick flies on their 
thin flanks, and occasionally filling the quiet air Vidth their 
music (?); men and women, of strange garb and mien, were 
moving about am^ong those of European dress; children more 
or less clad, a factor never hidden in the Orient, dashed about 
among the animals in their sports; all were there save the hog. 
He is strictly forbidden in the Kalgan compound. The last 
thing necessary to make the scene complete was for Mr. 
Heininger to grow a beard; for a beardless man could hardly 
play the role of an Abraham or Jacob, however efficient he may 
be in his special field of labor. The explanation of this great 
variety of Hfe lies in the fact that the missionaries among 
the Mongols and the Chinese had been ordered out of the 
scene of conflict and they had come to Kalgan and our com- 
pound as a place of refuge. 

Kalgan is a Mongol, not a Chinese, word. It is derived 
from the root ''Halag," meaning ''great gate." The Chinese 
name of the city is "Chang Chiu K'on," meaning the "Chang 
Family Pass." It is a city of 200,000 people, perhaps slightly 
more. The city is three miles long and quite narrow; and 
at the northern gate it extends through the pass in the moun- 
tains to the plains beyond, and widens out along the base of 
the moimtains to the right and left. The altitude of the city 
is 2,700 feet above sea level. This, together mth its latitude, 



3IO A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

being about that of Albany, New York, gives it a delightful 
climate, very much superior to Shanghai or Peking. The 
missionaries do not find it necessary to seek any other place 
as a refuge from the extreme heat that is so characteristic of 
most of China in the summer. Missionaries from Peking 
and beyond often write asking to be accommodated at Kalgan 
for a portion of the heated season. The city is very nearly 
surrounded by mountains, the highest being 2,500 feet. The 
pass to the north, through which the great trade between 
Mongolia and China passes, is only a few rods wide, but the 
plain through which the railroad enters covers a sixteenth of 
the horizon, as it appears from the second range of foothills 
to which we climbed. 

Kalgan is one of the most important cities of the north 
from a commercial standpoint. It is the point of departure 
for Mongolia and Thibet, and consequently is the south gate 
of Mongolia into China, and the north gate of China into 
Mongolia. Three hundred thousand sheep a month pass 
through Kalgan on to Peking and beyond, while the same 
number of chests of tea are taken through Kalgan to the 
north, with much silk, cloth, and many saddles. It is a rap- 
idly growing city, and because it is a distributing centre for 
both north and south, its permanence and continued growth 
are assured. It is, too, destined to be a great railroad centre. 
As already seen, it is now connected with Peking, and another 
road is now being built to open into the west and south. The 
contemplated road to the north to connect with the Russian 
Trans-Siberian road at Harbin must pass through Kalgan. 
If Mongolia and Thibet are to be open to travel from Shanghai 
and Peking it must be done by way of Kalgan. 

Kalgan was opened as a mission station by the American 
Board in 1865. Rev. John T. GuUck, now a missionary in 



KALGAN AND MUKDEN 311 

Japan, was the first worker. Many honored names are as- 
sociated with this mission, among whom were Rev. Mark 
Williams, Rev. J. W. Thompson, and Rev. W. P. Sprague and 
wife. The secondary object of opening this mission was to 
make it a base of approach to the Mongols and beyond them 
to Thibet. The mission is now conducted by the Methodist 
Protestant Church. This long and still closed door to the 
Christian religion has been a continuous challenge to the 
missionaries of the Cross, and when it is at last opened many 
that are now waiting and working will be found ready to enter. 
This object was never lost sight of, though the Chinese work 
has never been neglected to pursue it. From time to time 
approaches were made to the Mongols, but with compara- 
tively few results. At the last entire attention was given to 
the Chinese work. 

The direct field assigned to the Kalgan mission in the dis- 
tribution made by the mission bodies on the field covers a 
territory as large as the State of Connecticut, and it has within 
its borders two thousand cities and villages, with more than 
two million people. The territory lies in part to the east and 
north of Kalgan, but the far larger portion lies to the south 
and west. It is accessible in part by railroad already built, 
and in part by another now being built to the west, and the 
third part by cart and horseback. Our missionaries use all 
these means of conveyance as seem best at the time. This 
territory extends through latitude 40- 1| and longitude 
114-115, reaching to the provinces of Chili-Shansi on the 
west. It is located between the two northern branches of the 
Great Wall of China. The southern branch of the wall 
marked the approach of China to the Mongols, but China's 
merchants and farmers are nothing, if not aggressive; they 
went beyond the southern branch of the wall. The northern 



312 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

branch was made to enclose these venturesome people. The 
Kalgan field is between these two branches, among these 
enterprisuig and progressive people. The people appear to 
bear on their faces and forms the marks of this superiority. 

But there is still another " open door " for the Kalgan mis- 
sion. The Chinese merchants and farmers are still aggres- 
sive, and out through the gate of the Great Wall, and through 
the pass in the moimtains, they have gone, and a district one 
hundred miles broad to the north, and of indefinite length east 
and west, has almost a pure Chinese population. This field 
is practically unoccupied. 

After the Kalgan experience Dr. Wilbur joined the party at 
Tientsin. 

Upon departing from Tientsin it was f ovmd that the whole 
party could not leave at the same time on accoimt of insuf- 
ficient hotel accommodations. By a strange schedule of the 
railroad all passengers to Mukden must he over one night at 
the Chinese Wall. The hotel belongs to the railroad corpo- 
ration, which may account for the arrangement as a matter of 
income, especially as each passenger paid seven dollars 
(Chinese) for supper, lodging, and breakfast, and very imsat- 
isfactory at that. 

Mr. and Mrs. Hall, Miss Snell, Mr. Stafford, and Dr. Wil- 
bur, went forward as the first group, reaching Mukden late 
Saturday night. May 31st. They were met at the station by 
the American consul and a splendid group of missionaries, and 
were distributed into missionary homes for entertainment. 
The churches for the Sabbath were addressed by the members 
of the party. Two remarkable meetings were held: one in 
the morning was in the native Christian church, where 600 
men in a Sabbath School class were addressed by Mr. Hall 
on the Adult Class Movement; the other was in the legislative 




THE GREAT WALL OE CHINA 

AT MUKDEN STATION 

INASMUCH 




THE CHINESE VARIETY AND AIR HEINZ 

BEGGAR CHILDREN AT STATION 

EAiONE REFUGEES ON CARS 



KALGAN AND MUKDEN 313 

buildings of the Province of Manchuria, where the whole pro- 
vincial assembly gathered to listen to Mr. Stafford, Mr. Hall, 
and Dr. Wilbur. The president of the legislative body pre- 
sided at the meeting, and much interest was shown by the 
audience. The missionaries did the interpreting, and knew 
how to trim down the speeches to meet the feelings of the 
leaders in that perturbed province. When the members of 
the party looked back at this meeting when it was all over, 
it seemed like one great festival of tea drinking; for at every 
crook and turn, in every room or lobby, the inevitable tea 
um appeared as if by magic, and every guest must drink to 
repletion. In the evening the English-speaking people as- 
sembled to Hsten to a sermon in English. 

From Tientsin to the Great Wall for the second party was a 
day's journey. We are especially glad on this run northward 
to Mukden for the presence of Mr. Kwan, a young Chinese 
conductor educated in a Christian school, and who was so 
coiu-teous and cheer}^ that he wiU have a warm place always 
in our hearts. We stopped at railroad stations where beggars, 
clad and unclad, old men, and small children were waiting 
for the train. Round mounds along the railroad and in the 
fields mark the spots where China's dead are buried. The 
peasants are at work with the dawn of day, weeding their 
fields or sowing the seed or herding the sheep or goats. The 
butter used here is largely goat's butter. 

At the Great Wall the party arrived about 6 f. m., and spent 
several hours in walking along the old wall, which for 2,500 
years at least was China's effort to keep out the Tartars and 
Mongols from the north. The wall was probably 100 feet 
high in many places, and we followed it until we saw it climb 
like a snake over the mountain, a relic of ancient warfare and 
of the day when might made right. At intervals along the 



314 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

wall watch towers were located. We slept at the hotel near 
the Great Wall and in the morning took the train for Mukden, 
where we arrived in the evening. We are now in Manchuria, 
which the Russians and Japanese are coveting, and which 
they are gradually absorbing by settlement and by operation 
of railroads. Many that read this will recall the battle of 
Mukden in the Russo-Japanese war. From the second story 
of the Scotch Presbyterian Hospital you can see the battle- 
field and the spot which was successively in possession of the 
Russians and Japanese seven times. 

This Scotch Presbyterian Hospital, by the way, has become 
famous. Four years ago, when I was in China, the pneumonic 
bubonic plague was raging; 66,000 died in and about Mukden. 
It is absolutely fatal as a disease. In twenty-four hours the 
patient is dead. It affects the lungs and head. The city 
officials turned over the entire management of the plague to 
the Christian physicians. Two of these doctors gave their 
lives by contracting the disease in lifting patients into the 
hospital. Ten thousand dollars was given the mother of one 
of the doctors who died, by the Provincial officials. She 
turned it back to the hospital for a new building. " He gave 
his life a ransom for many." Last year there were few traces 
of the disease, nor this year, as they have been very strict 
in the inspection of the Mongolians who come to Mukden 
from the north, and who have brought the plague heretofore. 

At Mukden the Japanese have a large settlement, and it 
seemed good to again get a little touch of Japanese life after 
our long trip in China. To be sure, we were still in China, for 
Manchuria is a Chinese province, but the people expect in 
time that the province will pass out of their hands. 

At Mukden the chief points of interest are the old Manchu 
palace and the Manchu tombs. The palace buUdings are 



KALGAN AND MUKDEN 315 

practically deserted now, but through the kindness of the 
government ofl&cials the rooms and treasures of the Manchus 
were opened to us. The buildings are built about open courts 
and shone in all the glorious colors of the Manchus — gold and 
blue and yellow and red. We saw the throne rooms and 
carved dragons crawling about the background of the throne. 
Birds were now building their nests in the rafters of the de- 
serted room. Nearby was the treasure house. Old at- 
tendants brought out from wondrous wrappings and old 
boxes the treasures of the Manchu dynasty: a jewelled dagger, 
said to have been given by Louis of France; a hunting helmet 
studded with stones; a brocaded robe resplendent in seed 
pearls and precious stones. The shelves of the room were 
piled high with old bronzes and works of art, carved jade, and 
old boxes. Across the court the key turned in a door that 
opened to us the wonderful royal porcelains of great value, 
vases in blue and white, Persian blue rice bowls, tea bowls, 
cups, peach-blow vases, which were such a craze some years 
ago; wonderful creations they all were, in sea green, purple, 
brown, amethyst, and rose. A special chest was opened with 
much ceremony, and a box was taken out containing a few 
small vases of the celebrated peach-blow tint. Two of these 
had been presented as a great compliment to Lord Kitchener 
when he was there. Nearby was a temple which no woman 
was ever permitted to pass until the monarchy passed away. 
An English girl a few years ago insisted upon passing it, and 
her brazen indifEerence to the feelings of the Chinese came 
near making serious trouble. 

The Manchu tombs, near Mukden, consist of a series of 
stone monoliths in forms of elephants, camels, horses, lions. 
Through several gates the sacred temple of the Manchus is 
approached. In the court outside are several altars for sacri- 



3i6 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

fice. In the temple room itself, the chief furniture is a huge 
slab of alabaster, twenty feet high by four feet wide, resting 
upon the back of a carved hippopotamus. This slab was 
brought from India, thousands of miles away, by a great cara- 
van. The tombs where the bodies of the Manchu dynasty 
lie are within a hill, the door to them being locked and sealed. 
Around this hill runs a fence of stone elaborately carved. A 
lone oak tree is at the centre of this enclosure, which signifies 
everlasting hfe. 

A splendid banquet given us by the Governor of Manchuria 
and officials of the province and the Chamber of Commerce 
was the last event in China. Over the doors of the entrance 
to the grounds and buildings were intertwined great Chinese 
and American flags. The splendid Provincial band played 
for us our American airs, national and otherwise. At the 
banquet table was a brilliant company. Army generals 
were there in their uniforms. The Governor was present. 
The wine glasses were on the table, half a dozen to a plate. 
When we declined the wine and asked for lemonade, a fine- 
looking general across the table told the interpreter to tell 
me that he also did not drink wine. They seemed surprised 
to learn that President Wilson, Mr. Bryan, and Vice-President 
Marshall of the United States were temperance men, and the 
example of these men will not be lost upon China. The 
Governor was very cordial in his address of welcome. Mr. 
Kinnear proposed a toast to the two repubHcs. At the con- 
clusion of the feast the Governor sent his secretary and the 
vice-president of the Chamber of Commerce to see us off on 
the train. Surely it is hard to match the East in hospitahty. 
The American Consul here was a Mr. Myers, a bright Penn- 
sylvania boy, and he was present at the banquet. 

Too much praise cannot be given the British and Scotch 



KALGAN ANT) MUKDEN 317 

missionaries for their work in this Province of Manchuria, 
where 20,000 to 30,000 Christians have been added to the 
church and a splendid native leadership developed. Mr. ELin- 
near had the privilege of addressing a fine lot of the college 
boys, and Miss Brown spoke in a day school and to the women 
in a mission hall on the main street of Mukden. 

A Sunday School Institute was held for these simple-hearted, 
earnest workers, who are much on the Korean type, for Korea 
lies just over the Manchurian border. And Mr. Tewksbury 
enlisted 115 of them in the teacher training course of the 
China Simday School Union. 

The assembly of these junior preachers continues for a 
month and becomes a training school for evangelistic service, 
through which the few missionaries here are multiplying them- 
selves throughout Manchuria. The assembly is arranged by 
the United Conferences and Synods of the Presbyterian Mis- 
sion in Manchuria. 

Our last day in China has come, and the last of the series of 
meetings in a number of the strategic centres of China. We 
part company with Mr. Tewksbury, whose thoughtful kind- 
ness has been unfailing, and board the express train coming up 
from Dalny bound for Chang Chun, where we are to take the 
Trans-Siberian express, which for eight days is to be our home, 
across " strange Siberia " ; but this will make another chapter. 



CHAPTER XXXI 
ACROSS SIBERIA 



CHAPTER XXXI 

ACROSS SIBERIA 

On the morning of June 3rd our train pulled into Chang 
Chun. Here the Japanese train service ends, and the Trans- 
Siberian Railroad line begins. From Chang Chim to Harbin 
is one spur of the Trans-Siberian road, the other spur running 
from Harbin to Vladivostock. On every hand we have noted 
evidences of the peaceful struggle going on between Japan 
and Russia for this field, the struggle of occupation by farmer 
and merchant. Whether the struggle for supremacy in this 
rich agricultural section shall eventuate in another clash of 
arms, only time will tell. Russia's enormous investment in 
the Trans-Siberian system, and the necessity for an outlet 
for the products of Siberia, require some ice free port at the 
eastern terminus. The surrender of Port Arthur closed the 
possibility of that for the present, but Russia is rapidly under- 
taking the double tracking of the Trans-Siberian road. And 
we ask, why? 

At Chang Chun we must change cars for the run to Harbin. 
Whiat was our surprise and dehght to find an American built 
Pullman compartment sleeping-car, but with finer appoint- 
ments than the ordinary Pullman. 

At Chang Chun we were painfully aware that we were in 
Russian territory. The generous treatment of baggage on 
the Japanese and Chinese railroads may have spoiled us. 
The facts are that the Trans-Siberian road is a monopoly; the 

321 



322 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

maintenance of the road is expensive, and the traveller assists 
in paying the bills. Between you and the Chinese coolie 
who handles the baggage, or the Russian baggage master, who 
caknly puts down on a paper receipt the amount of your 
excess baggage, there is no point of language contact. Pro- 
test at the heaviness of the charge is unavailing. You pocket 
your feelings and unpocket your cash, if wise, or sputter 
without making a dent on the attendants and spoil your own 
spirit for the rest of the day. 

But we were treated to a slight American-Russian skirmish 
at the station that threatened to develop into a battle royal. 
For weary months General Heinz had been paying freight 
from America through Japan and China on various boxes of 
amanimition, marked "57 varieties," intended for the com- 
missary department for use in the journey across Siberia. 
The enemy, despite their ignorance of English, intuitively 
felt that those boxes should be detained at the station as 
contraband of war, and refused to put them on the train. 
Word was brought to the party. We gasped as we thought of 
that eight days' journey without the comfort of apple butter 
and such. But our General was alert. He executed a flank, 
movement among the boxes and trunks of the crowded station, 
laid siege to the enemy, poured a volley of Teuton shot into 
the attendant, who, fortunately, was exposed to attack. 
While some of the Heinz army were watching the station door 
what was their delight and surprise to see their doughty 
General suddenly appear in the doorway with a case marked 
"Spaghetti" in his arms. Possibly the Russians had mis- 
taken "spaghetti" for some form of Japanese dynamite 
instead of American "dine a mite." Following the General 
came his son loaded with a case of baked beans, then the 
valet with apple butter, and then we joined the rescue party, 



ACROSS SIBERIA 323 

and the long line of preservers reminded one of the black 
silhouetted figures in Egyptian monuments bearing gifts to 
the temple. 

But we had not figured upon the Russian reserves, which 
were brought into action in the person of the Russian porter 
at the car door. He had noticed the formation of the Ameri- 
can forces, and resisted, in unmistakable language and mien, 
the entry of the trophies of war. His ire was aroused by a 
stream of sawdust, which exuded from the baked-bean case, 
and he declined to admit the provender. But our resourceful 
General was equal to the new line of attack, and ordered the 
boxes broken and the contents taken in, minus the sawdust. 
The female cooks came into view at that moment, and cans 
and bottles were rushed into compartments and stored away 
like Egypt's com against the day of famine on the "Wilds of 
Siberia," and the smoke of the battle of the kitchen cleared 
away. But the picture that will remain longest is the ex- 
pression of determination and triumph on the General's face 
as he appeared in the doorway of the station with the precious 
cargo "preserved" from the snare of the Russian fowler, with 
or without "benzoate of soda." 

Harbin reached, we are to transfer to the main Line train 
coming from Vladivostock. Here we have a chance to change 
our Chinese money into roubles, the latter equal to about 52 
cents of our money. And here again we go through the tnmk- 
weighing process, accept, as philosophically as possible, the 
heavy charge for excess baggage, and learn the capacity of 
baggagemen and others for fees. 

The train which was to be our domicile for eight days con- 
sisted of eleven cars, one of them a dining-car, one for baggage, 
one for express, and the rest first and second class sleepers. 
The train was the Russian State Express, as it was found im- 



324 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

possible to get sufficient accommodations for the party on the 
de luxe train. The latter is finely outfitted for the long journey. 
On the state train no one could speak English, but the con- 
ductor spoke German so that we could make our wants known. 

Our chief difficulty was the dining-car. The waiters could 
understand nothing but Russian, and were very stupid. At 
the outset some of the party were stirred up by the long waits 
for service, but the meals were excellent when finally served, 
and gradually adjustment was made to the conditions. We 
were fortunate, too, in having married wives who were 
independent of cooks, and we inaugurated our own culinary 
departments. A few oil stoves, some tea, hot water, begged 
or bought from the good-natured fat Russian attendant, gave 
us many a good Siberian tea party. And after absorbing 
the contents of a few oHve and catsup bottles, and thus ob- 
taining a few empty bottles, the ordinary sight was to see a 
deputation from the party dash from the train at the station 
with the sundry bottles, and make for the station restaurant 
or for the sheds, where sterilized milk is sold. Butter, eggs, 
crackers, bread, cheese, were bought, and once, glorious to 
relate, a jar of claver, or soured milk, was secured for the 
sour-milk fiends of the party. And one of the best things 
about those meals was the combination of compartments, and 
the social times afforded, and the jokes told. 

Six thousand miles is considerable of a stretch to cover, and 
we were prepared for a strenuous and uninteresting time, for 
all our childhood impressions of Siberia gave us the picture 
of barren and unsettled wastes — the sleigh, the horse, the 
rider, the woods, and the fierce wolves predominating. But in 
June, at least, the whole journey was a kaleidoscope of interest. 
Agriculturally, the rich soil could maintain a population of 
hundreds of millions, given market facilities. 




AT A SIBERIAN STATION 

A WAYSIDE SIBERIAN MILK DEPOT 

ON THE WAY TO SIBERIA 




CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY, MOSCOW 

A SIBERIAN COLPORTEUR 

FLOWER CHILDREN OF SIBERIA 



ACROSS SIBERIA 325 

The first three days we passed over a rolling prairie country- 
spotted with herds of cattle, which supply much of the beef 
for China and Japan. The following two or three days we 
passed through a section densely timbered with forests of 
pine and white birch. One of these tracts was a thousand 
miles square. Beyond this and up to the European hne is 
rich black soil, as fine as in our Middle West, capable of great 
crops of wheat. But if so developed, this wheat would come 
into competition with the Russian farmer, and he has to be 
protected. 

But horses are raised on these vast stretches, the finest 
horses in the world. Siberia is an asset of the Russian Crown. 
Jermark presented Siberia to Russia. Ivan the Terrible 
realized the power of this man and authorized him to lead a 
crowd of 800 Russian Cossacks, Tartars, Germans, and Poles, 
including escaped prisoners, across the Urals into Siberia. 
He captured the capital "Isker," presenting it to the Czar. 
The land is not sold but leased. The Cossacks obtain these 
leases on favorable terms, on condition that they will respond 
to call for mihtary service. During the Japanese-Russian 
war these Cossacks were at the front with their families. 
They are hard fighters. Their chief enemy is the Russian 
vodka, or whiskey, which was as much responsible for de- 
feat in the war as bad strategy. Siberia is becoming very 
important in its dairy products. In 1896 there was but 
one dairy. To-day the railroad has a daily dairy train of 
white-painted cars bearing eggs and butter largely to the 
Enghsh market. There are now 1,080 refrigerator cars of 
fifteen tons each. And these trains frequently consist of 
thirty-five cars each. 

Great rivers water the country. AU of these flow north- 
ward to the Arctic Ocean, with exception of the Volga, which 



326 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

flows southward. At the point where we crossed, the Volga 
is as broad as the Mississippi, and the bridge is one of the 
finest in the world. The system of water highways in Siberia 
is the longest in the world. 

The second day out from Harbin we passed through a tun- 
nel bearing the inscription: "To the Atlantic Ocean." As 
we emerged from the tunnel the inscription reads: "To the 
Great Ocean." Near Irkutsk, one of the five capitals of 
Siberia, is an archway bearing a similar inscription: "This 
way to the Great Ocean," and on the other, "This way to 
the Atlantic Ocean," and dates 1858 and 1891. 

Three himdred miles farther do\NTi the river on a prominent 
blufi, visible miles away, there is erected a huge iron cross bear- 
ing this inscription: "Power lies not in force but in love," a 
sentiment that is bound to come increasingly to the fore in 
the years beyond these days of the barbaric expression of 
force. 

About halfway across Siberia the land becomes mountain- 
ous, rising to snow-capped peaks at Lake Baikal. This mag- 
nificent body of water is 400 miles in length and is the third 
largest fresh-water lake in the world, the largest being Lake 
Superior and Victoria. Although it was the 6th of Jime, 
we foimd the lake full of ice. In places the water is one mile 
deep. We skirt the lake for 250 miles to reach Irkutsk. 

The change of cars to a companion train at Irkutsk was 
accomplished about 2 a. m. The brilliant moonlight and our 
position, so far north, seemed to turn night into day. We 
realized what it was to be nearer the Arctic Circle and the 
"midnight sun." 

From Irkutsk there is being built a new railroad to Peking, 
cutting off over 1,200 miles of present travel. 

Within fifty miles of Irkutsk hes Alexandrooskyo, where is 



ACROSS SIBERIA 327 

located one of the largest prisons in Siberia. Often 200,000 
convicts are waiting to be drafted for work in the valuable 
mines near this city. The exiles live in communities on a 
bare pittance so that they will not be able to run away. 

At one station on the road we saw a string of these manacled 
convicts bound for the prison car, and we could hardly escape 
a shudder as we saw this fruit of ignorance and force, and we 
looked forward with hope to the day when temperance and 
education should bring in a new Russia and develop the 
enormous latent possibilities of this people. The recent 
edicts of the Czar proclaiming imiversal education and pro- 
hibiting vodka from the Russian army are two notable steps 
in this development. 

The farther our journey into Siberia, the more frequent and 
larger we found the villages, until important and flourishing 
cities were passed, some of these such as Tchita, Omak, and 
Tomsk, maintaining large populations. But always, whether 
in village or city, the first e\ddence of approach was the spire 
and green dome in bell-shaped form, that showed the presence 
of the Greek Catholic Church. These churches we shall 
describe a httle later when we arrive at Moscow and St. 
Petersburg. The people at the stations were good-natured, 
but rough and imcouth in appearance, and although it was 
June, they were dressed in winter attire, with heavy boots and 
caps of wool or fur. Under their arms or beneath their cloaks 
would be frequently carried the loaf of wheat bread, for the 
rice coimtry is past. While waiting for trains, the families 
would be found sleeping on their baggage on the platform or 
floors of the stations. The women frequently wore red in 
contrast with the blue of the Manchurian dress. The Httle 
flower-girls at the stations had gay kerchiefs about their heads 
and could hardly be denied as they held for sale the bunches 



328 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

of edelweiss and lilies of the valley and other wild flowers 
which in June make the Siberian stretches a garden. 

A Russian Bible colporteur at one of the stations had his 
pile of Bibles stacked for sale and responded to our greetings 
with a smile. The Russian Government is giving free car- 
riage and Hberty in the sale of the Greek Testament. 

The stations all along the way were decorated with flags 
in honor of the three hundred and first anniversary of the 
dynasty. 

Everywhere you see the brilliant uniform of the Russian 
soldier. Siberia is an armed camp, for there is a long border 
line to the south, and it is Russian policy to overawe the rest- 
less border tribes by a display of militar}^ strength. 

At one end of the dining car is a piano. The train noise 
made the fine execution by Professor Roper of none effect, and 
the chimes were lost in the clatter of the wheels. But we had 
a good Sunday service and groups would meet in compart- 
ments for a good sing. 

The outstanding day was the birthday social. Miss Brown 
and Miss Jeannette Kinnear had been planning for weeks past 
to have a birthday celebration on the train that should include 
all those whose birthdays had occurred since the party started 
from San Francisco. To this end birthday souvenirs had 
been gathered up during our progress through China. The 
secretary was made master of ceremonies, and the team of 
conspirators stood by to adapt the birthday remembrance as 
nearly as possible to some characteristic of the person or in- 
cident of the trip. The chair pronounced this June day as an 
"August" occasion. The birthday cake, with its many 
lighted candles, was presented to Mrs. Kinnear. In order to 
avoid suits for damages, we will forbear giving the reasons for 
the various gifts, but will announce them, leaving the rest to 



ACROSS SIBERIA 329 

imagination. A speaking doll went to Mr. Stafford, a Peking 
cart to Mrs. Morton, a shoe to Miss Jones, a bird's nest to 
Mr. Clarence Heinz, a drummer boy to Mr. Landes (a rela- 
tive of "Johnny Schmoker"), a Sedan chair to Mrs. Brown, 
a marble to Master James Kinnear, a shoe to Mr. Morton, a 
cat to Miss Esther Kinnear, and a speaking doll to Mr. 
Kinnear. Each, in turn, was to respond with some stunt. 
The closing word of congratulation came from Father Heinz, 
who gave to his various varieties of children his paternal bless- 
ing. 

On our seventh day we crossed the dividing line between 
Asia and Europe. This came as we were slipping down the 
Ural Mountains feasting our eyes on scenery as grand as any- 
thing we had seen on our entire trip. The vistas of wonderful 
valleys were charming. A marble monument, a few feet 
south of the railroad track, marks the point of continental 
division. This is called the "Monument of Tears," for here 
exiles must bid good-bye to their dear ones. On the east side 
is the word "Asia" and on the west side "Europe." In a 
moment we had passed from one continent to another. 

Beyond the Ural range we descended to the broad fertile 
plains which are under a fine state of cultivation. Hamlets 
and villages were frequent and the tidier condition of farms 
and people indicated an improvement in civilization. 

On the morning of Wednesday, June nth, we sighted the 
golden domes and spires of Moscow. We recalled the bitter 
disappointment of Napoleon as in 181 2 he discovered that this 
splendid objective of his long march was in flames. 



CHAPTER XXXII 
MOSCOW AND ST. PETERSBURG 




CHURCH OF THE RESURELECTION, ST. PETERSBURG 

CATHEDRAL OF OSTANKINO, MOSCOW 

THE GREAT MOSCOW BELL 

IVERSKY GATE, MOSCOW 



CHAPTER XXXII 

MOSCOW AND ST. PETERSBURG 

The most welcome face at the Moscow Station was that of 
Rev. George A. Simons, the superintendent of the Methodist 
Finland Russia Mission, who had kindly come all the way 
from St. Petersburg to Moscow to greet us and to bring the 
stored up mail which had been sent east instead of west, in 
order to catch us upon arrival. 

While several of the party foraged for a good hotel, the 
others eagerly waited in the station for the mail distribution. 
This was another of those psychological moments when the 
pent up hopes and fears of the party found vent as the letters 
were rapidly opened. But the one who got most out of the 
affair was "Foxy Grandpa" Heinz, who had surreptitiously 
stored some of the party letters in his pockets, and then, as 
one after another expressed disappointment at not hearing 
from a friend or loved one, he would fish the missing letter 
from his pocket, and turn the disappointment into joy. 

Our foraging committee installed us in a splendid hotel. 
Those who have been deprived of the comforts of a modern 
hotel for months can appreciate what this meant to us all. 
"Blessings brighten as they take their flight." The atten- 
tions were splendid, the baths doubly welcome, and the food 
although richly cooked, as is the custom here, was wholesome 
and tasteful. 

Moscow, the old capital of Russia, is a more thoroughly 

333 



334 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Russian City than St. Petersburg. Here the marriage and 
coronation of the royal line is still accomplished. The wealth 
of the city is great, and the shops, in the form of arcades, are 
equal to anything in Europe, and the city cleanly. The method 
of conveyance is the narrow-seated buggy, or drowsky, and 
the driver in high silk hat and padded coat, with a blue 
overcoat and brass buttons, obscures the horizon with his 
proportions. 

The most notable thing in Moscow, of course, is the Krem- 
lin, "Above Moscow is only the Kremlin; above the Krem- 
lin, Heaven." The Kremlin is an enclosure combining 
arsenal, state buildings, the three churches where Russian 
monarchs are baptized, married, crowned, and where the royal 
line up to Peter the Great are buried, and contains the historical 
shrines of Russian patriots. As you enter the Kremlin, you 
pass the arsenal at your right; beyond that is the ornamented 
cannon, the largest gun in the world. Nearby is the great 
bell of Moscow, also the largest in the world, with a piece 
broken out through the fall of the bell from the tower of Ivan 
the Terrible, at the base of which it stands. We enter the 
Church of the Assumption, 420 years old, one of the group of 
three churches mentioned. Here the Russian monarchs are 
baptized and married. The glass case near the entrance con- 
tains the bones of the saints. This glass top is reverently 
kissed by the people. The guide points to a withered hand, 
which he claims to be that of St. Mark, one of many such relics 
which the church imposes on the faithful. Here there is a 
a seat for the Czar. Ivan the Terrible sat here. 

The palace adjoins the church at the immediate right, and 
next to this the Church of the Ascension. The people are 
pouring in here. Many of the men have long hair and beards 
trimmed to appear Uke the reputed picture of Christ . A num- 



MOSCOW AND ST. PETERSBURG 335 

ber of these are priests. The guard orders hats off, and we 
enter a spacious room, the atmosphere heavily laden with 
incense. The room is shadowed. At the farther end is a 
chapel dedicated to patron saints. Here the people go and 
deposit their candle to be burned as a devotional offering. 
In another corner many are kissing an icon supposed to have 
especial value. 

And now as to these icons. They are pictures of saints, 
rather the face of the saint, and the rest moulded into form. 
The Greek church in its early history rejected the worship of 
idols, but substituted the worship of pictures. These pic- 
tures, or icons, can be found in all churches, in public places, 
and in the homes of the people. In the rooms of the hotel 
even, the first picture you see in entering the room is the icon, 
and the worshipper will always bow and cross reverently. 
These icons are borne upon the persons as charms. The 
principal saint is "Nicholas the Wonder Worker." 

The Bible is a closed book. The services of the churches 
are conducted in the old Slavonic tongue, which the people 
understand less than the Latin of the Roman Catholic Church 
is understood by the bulk of her worshippers. There is no 
pretence at preaching, no reUgious instruction of the masses 
by hterature. The ornateness of the churches, the appeal 
to the eye by the dress and pomp and altar ceremonials, and, 
above all, the wonderful Russian music, hold the masses. 

As we stood in the Church of the Ascension that day we 
heard the deep-toned voice of the priest conducting the service. 
The voice sounded like the sub-base of a great organ. It 
reverberated through the church. Then came the responses 
of the choir. They need no organ. For a thousand years 
these voices have been in cultivation for the church service. 
Fathers who are singers train their children almost from birth. 



336 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

and there is nothing in the world to match the perfection 
and the power of this singing. 

All over the church there are the handsomely framed pic- 
tures of saints presented by the devout. And the walls are 
painted all over with the deeds of Nicholas the Wonder 
Worker and others in the numerous line of saints, men with 
long beards and looking singularly alike. 

The misdirection of this splendid devotional spirit of the 
people is to be regretted. They are at least entitled to in- 
struction in a language they can understand. But only 
lo per cent, of the one hundred million of Slavs can read. 
There is no public school system. The cost of education is 
prohibitory to the poor, and the revenues of the government 
must be devoted to the keeping up of the war establishment. 
This war department is maintained largely by the revenues 
from vodka. Education and temperance will free Russia of 
two great burdens, and give a chance for a spiritual religion. 
The recent proclamation of universal education in Russia and 
the prohibition of vodka from the Russian army referred to 
in the last chapter are two great advance steps. " Christianity 
paganized" is a fit description of Russia's religious worship. 

The Church of the Archangel in the Kremlin, the third of 
the famous group, contains the tombs from the first Romanoff 
up to Peter the Great. Peter is buried, by his request, at St. 
Petersburg. A red light burns perpetually over the tomb of 
the founder of the Romanoff dynasty in this Church of the 
Archangel. 

On the farther end of the Kremlin and commanding a 
superb view of the city is the unique memorial to Alexander 
II, who freed the serfs of Russia at about the same time that 
Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation. This was 
erected in 1898, and is in the form of a peristyle, a half circle 



MOSCOW AND ST. PETERSBURG 337 

in length. Thirty-three portraits in Venetian mosaics adorn 
the roof of the structure. At the heart of the half circle is 
an enormous bronze figure of the emancipator, over whose 
shoulders falls a great cloak. At. St. Petersburg we will see 
the great Church of the Resurrection erected over the spot 
where he died by the assassin's bomb. 

Besides the Technikopf gallery, one other building in Mos- 
cow is of especial interest. This is the Church of the Saviour 
and is in an imposing location. It is said to have cost 15,000,- 
000 roubles, and will accommodate 15,000 people. The dome 
is resplendent in gold. In the ceiling of the dome is a painting 
of God depicted as an old man with white beard and Christ 
as a child in His lap. The imperial chairs are of inlaid mar- 
ble; back of the chairs is a painting of Samuel anointing David. 
Some marvelous paintings of Christ's life, and especially of the 
days of the passion week, are found here. A cofl&n is shown, in 
which they assert is the body of Christ. Once a year this is 
brought to the platform in the centre of the dome. About the 
building are 3,500 candles lighted by one string. Magnificent 
paintings of Nicolai adorn the corridors. A priest in golden 
robe was ministering at a golden altar as we entered. The deep 
intonations of the service were very impressive . And we do not 
wonder that these poor people, whose impressions come through 
the eye and ear, are caught by the splendid pageantry. 

One sight touched me deeply. It was that of a Httle boy, not 
over nine years old, holding by the hand a little sister, and 
with hurrying feet going from icon to icon, the little one fol- 
lowing, action for action, the brother, as he bowed, who re- 
peatedly crossed himself and uttered the formula. Shall these 
little ones not have the windows of their souls opened to the 
light and air of heaven? 

When Peter the Great determined to have a port as his 



338 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

capital, he drove millions of piles in the marshes of the Neva, 
and made a foundation for St. Petersburg. The engineers 
presented plans for a railroad connecting Moscow and St. 
Petersburg. The route as suggested was irregular, in order 
to take advantage of the natural formations of the country. 
But Peter is said to have drawn on the map a straight line 
between the two cities, and ordered the road so constructed. 
No wonder the night is chosen for the journey, for the coun- 
try, largely forested and with a large area of unproductive 
lands, is not attractive to the traveler. 

As you approach St. Petersburg in the morning, the factor^' 
chimneys and church domes are the outstanding things that 
impress one. And as you move from the station and enter 
the broad avenues of this imperial city with magnificent 
business blocks, museums, parks, churches, statues, bridges, 
you feel that you are in one of the world's greatest capitals. 
Especially does this impression grow as you pass the plaza 
where the Church of St. Isaac, with its massive porch pillars, 
stands, and cross the river bridge with its sweep of view com- 
manding the palace and imposing buildings on either bank. 

St. Petersburg folk live largely in apartments. A stranger 
entering one of these must be reported at once by the care- 
taker to the police, who then visit the apartment, insist 
upon a passport, and upon registry with the authorities. You 
pay the fee, and realize that you are under the operation of 
the most thorough system of espionage known. 

The stranger visiting St. Petersbiu-g will have much to hold 
his interest. The winter palace of 1,059 rooms, the largest 
palace in the world, stands on a pubUc square where the Cos- 
sacks shot hundreds of people some years ago when these 
people came peacefully, led by a priest, to present to the Czar 
a petition in the interest of labor. 



MOSCOW AND ST. PETERSBURG 339 

Each of the rooms m this palace possesses different features 
in decoration, furniture, or adornment. The rooms of largest 
interest are those where Alexander II worked and where he 
died. The table is shown on which he signed the manifesto 
freeing 23,000,000 serfs. The calendar of the day of his 
im timely death, March 15, 1881, is there, and the 60 kopeks 
which were in his pocket when assassinated. The telegraph 
instrument is exhibited through which he was accustomed to 
communicate directly with the Kaiser. 

Anything that touches the boat and city builder, Peter the 
Great, is of course of interest. You can see the home built 
by his own hands, the furniture constructed by him in one of 
these rooms, and the first boat built by him, the latter 200 
years old. The map of St. Petersburg is there, drawn by him 
before the city was built, on substantially the same lines as 
finally evolved. If any one desired special success in business 
there is a chapel in this home where requests, previously 
written out on paper, are intoned in prayer. 

The Church of the Resurrection here is one of the world's 
finest structures. It is built over the spot where Alexander 
II was walking when the assassination took place. The 
spires and domes are decorated in a variety of brilliant colors. 
The interior walls are of mosaic, and religious scenes are in- 
wrought in these. White topaz, porphyry, jasper, and mar- 
bles of rare colorings adorn the shrines and altar. The doors 
back of the altar are of silver enamelled in gold. In the centre 
of one of these doors is a face of Christ painted on mother-of- 
pearl, which is exquisite in its workmanship and in the noble, 
spiritual lines of the face of Christ. The church is said to 
have cost 28,000,000 roubles. The celebrated picture of 
Christ in the garden is here, presented by the Czar of Bulgaria. 

Of course a Bible School visitor will see here the great 



340 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

library where the Codex Sinaiticus can be seen, written in 350 
A. D., a beautifully inscribed copy of the Bible found in a 
monastery at Mt, Sinai by Tischendorf and presented to the 
Czar. One looks with reverent interest at this early copy of 
the Book, which in its free circulation is needed so badly in 
Russia. 

We will long remember the evening at Mr. Simons's home 
with Mother Simons, since gone to the Eternal Home, and 
Mr. Simons's sister, Otilie, and the ladies of the church, the 
good " eats " and the illuminating talk by Mr. Simons on 
Russia. 

The memory of St. Petersburg which will remain longest is 
that of the communion service on Whitsunday in the Metho- 
dist Church. The service was led by Mr. Simons. Mr. 
Stafford and Mr. Kinnear and the writer spoke briefly, the 
addresses being interpreted first in German and then in Rus- 
sian. We sang "The Comforter is come." There were fifteen 
minutes of voluntary prayer. In five different languages the 
earnest membership prayed — Russian, German, English, 
Dutch, and Slavonic. Dr. Wilbur administered the Sacra- 
ment after a brief talk on the prayer of our Lord, "That they 
all may be one." The Apostles' Creed was recited in 
several languages. And though we did not understand each 
other's language, we knew the uniting bond of the love of 
Christ and reahzed that the same spirit was leading us all into 
all truth. 

While religious freedom in Russia is guaranteed under 
edict of the Czar, the laws necessary for its enforcement have 
never been passed. No missionary of any religion is allowed 
in Russia. Mr. Simons is there as Superintendent of the 
Finland Conference, and superintends in Russia a work cover- 
ing 500 members, fifteen pastors, five chapels, a deaconess 



MOSCOW AND ST. PETERSBURG 341 

work, and is wisely developing the work wherever possible. 
The Baptists have a membership of 100,000, and the evangel- 
ical German sentiment in Russia is growing. 

The Protestant Sunday Schools in Russia are prohibited 
from enlisting the children of parents of the Greek Catholic 
Church. The Greek Church has no gatherings for teaching 
the Word to old or young. The Sunday Schools reported 
for all Protestant work in Russia number 896 with 72,254 
oflSicers, teachers, and scholars, a good showing for the op- 
portunity given, but a pitiful one as you think of Russia's 
170,000,000 of population with practically no intelligent 
rehgious education of the young, and only 10 per cent, of the 
people with general education. "No nation so much as Russia 
holds the fate of the coming years," said Roosevelt. And 
when that door swings wide open, as it must, the Sunday 
School forces will have a peculiarly important mission. 

The Sunday School connected wdth Mr. Simons's church at 
St. Petersburg has a missionary spirit and supports day 
schools in Korea and one in China. On the Sunday we were 
there, an old lady celebrated her spiritual birthday by drop- 
ping a rouble in the birthday box of the school, and two others 
one rouble each. It is this missionary spirit in the Sunday 
School upon the foreign field which gives encouragement by 
the sincerity of its expression of the outgoing love of Christ. 



CHAPTER XXXIII 
THE TOURNEY'S CLIMAX 



CHAPTER XXXIII 

THE journey's CLIMAX 

From St, Petersburg the party divided, some going direct 
to Berlin, others via steamer to Stockholm, thence by Chris- 
tiania and Copenhagen to Berlin. A few went directly home 
from Moscow, and some from Moscow, via Warsaw, to 
Berlin. 

But all roads led finally to Zurich, where the World's Sun- 
day School Convention was to meet in July. As the party 
met about the streets of Zurich, there seemed to be a new 
point to the greetings. Five months together in the Orient 
cemented friendships and gave enough points of contact to 
keep the various members "wigwagging," tonguewise, indefi- 
nitely. 

There were some family reunions, too, at Zurich, and mail, 
and a chance to smooth out the wrinkles of the tiredness of the 
journey, and friends to greet who had been following the 
journey with rare interest. 

And then there was the evening to be given to the report 
of Commission Four. Banners and flags and trimming of 
Oriental caste were brought out from trunks to decorate the 
convention hall for the Orient evening, and Chairman Heinz 
was fathering the party still, despite the tax upon his strength, 
through the convention, and evincing that same thoughtless- 
ness of himself which had been in evidence from the start. 

The commission evening had as its climax the invitation 

345 



346 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

from Japan to hold the next World's Sunday School Conven- 
tion at Tokyo in 1916. 

Mr. Landes gave stereopticon pictures of the tour in a brief 
talk. The commission song was sung, "On to the Orient," 
and the cry given once more: 

"World's S. S. A., 
The globe we span 
We greet and say, 
Banzai! Banzai!! Banzai!! Japan." 

After the presentation by the secretary of the report of the 
commission, Mr. Heinz summed up the story of the tour. In 
his closing words, he said: 

"We now lay down our work at the feet of our Lord. It 
was ours to sow the seed. Our Father will prepare the har- 
vest. It has been a labor, but a labor of love, ever to be re- 
membered by the members of the visitation party. 

"We have great reason to be thankful to our Heavenly 
Father that He has enabled us all to make the journey in 
safety, and bring our findings to the World's Seventh Sunday 
School Convention." 

Dr. Ibuka's words of invitation on behalf of Japan follow: 

"I bring to you from your brothers and sisters in the Far 
Eastern Land of the Rising Sun most cordial Christian greet- 
ings. I bring also their hearty thanks to this convention for 
the important commission that has recently visited us to study 
and encourage the Sunday School work in the Orient. 

"You have listened to the most interesting report of their 
tour, through the chairman and secretary of this commission. 
Permit me to tell you that they are very modest in speaking 
of the enthusiastic welcome and unusual honors the party 
received wherever they went. It was my good fortune to be 
in Tokyo when the party arrived; and at the Sunday School 



THE JOURNEY'S CLIMAX 347 

rally which was especially held in their honor I had the privi- 
lege of welcoming them to Japan. I had also the pleasure 
of being present at the reception and banquet given in honor 
of this conmiission at the Imperial Hotel. This was attended 
by a large number of prominent business men as well as 
Christian leaders and missionaries residing in Tokyo and 
Yokohama. Baron Sakatani, Mayor of the city of Tokyo, 
presided, and in the name of the citizens of the capital ex- 
tended a most hearty welcome. Baron Shibusawa, the chair- 
man of the recent Japanese commission to America, followed, 
and was equally cordial in his welcome. 

"When they were gracefully responded to by Mr. Heinz, 
the chairman of the commission, and were told that in the 
commission there were not a few men of standing who volun- 
teered to take this trip to study the conditions and possibilities 
of the Sunday School in the Orient, leading to a World's Con- 
vention three months hence at Zurich, their hearty welcome 
was mingled with an vmfeigned sense of surprise and admira- 
tion. Our business men were at a loss to comprehend why 
the business men of America should undertake such a tour 
for such an object. What is the Sunday School, they asked, 
for which these business men are willing to give so much of 
their time, money, and energy? You may be interested to 
know that some of us had, there and then, an opportunity of 
explaining what the Sunday School was, and what it meant 
for the welfare and progress of the world. 

''I have not time to speak of the hearty welcome and cordial 
receptions that awaited the commission in different centres in 
Japan. Suffice it to say that everywhere they went they were 
received with open arms. Not only the Sunday School 
leaders, pastors, and missionaries, but the governors of prov- 
inces, mayors of cities, and presidents of chambers of com- 
merce came out to welcome them. 

"It is impossible to estimate how much encouragement 
the visitation of your commission has given to the cause of the 
Sunday School and missions in Japan. I repeat, therefore, 
from the bottom of my heart, my profound gratitude to the 
convention for sending to us your able men for this arduous 



348 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

task. In saying this I am sure that I am not only expressing 
my personal feelings but the sentiment of the whole body of 
Christians in Japan. 

"You have conferred upon Japan a very great favor in send- 
ing us the important commission of which I have spoken. 
Now that you have been so good to us I feel encouraged to ask 
of you a stUl greater favor — I mean the honor of permitting 
us to entertain the next World's Sunday School Convention in 
the city of Tokyo, the capital of the 'Land of the Rising 
Sun.' 

"Shall I pause and remind you of some good reasons why 
the next World's Sunday School Convention in 1916 should 
be held in the Far East? There are many good reasons, but I 
shall venture to mention only three which seem to me to have 
special weight. 

"i. Such a convention held in the city of Tokyo will 
be a demonstration which no imbeHever or skeptic could 
gainsay, that Christianity in Christendom is not dead or 
dying, but that it is still the very Ufe and light of the western 
world. 

"Word comes to us from Europe and America, sometimes 
brought by western tourists, sometimes by Japanese who visit 
the West, that Christianity in Christendom is already dead 
or dying; and that word is repeated every day in the press, in 
the streets, by teachers in their classrooms. We need a dem- 
onstration to the man in the street that that is not true; 
that it is not true that Christianity has been discarded by all 
intelligent men in Europe and America, but that Christianity 
is stUl the great living power in Christendom. The holding 
of a World's Sunday School Convention in Japan wiU demon- 
strate that fact. 

"2. Such a convention held in Tokyo will give the Chris- 
tians, not only in Japan, but also in Korea and China, tre- 
mendous encouragement. 

"The seed of Christianity has now been planted in Japan, 
and the plant is growing. Fifty years ago there was not a 
Protestant Christian in all Japan; to-day they are found among 
the members of the Imperial Diet, the judges in the courts, 



THE JOURNEY'S CLIMAX 349 

the professors in the Imperial University, the officers in the 
army and navy; and Christian congregations are dotting the 
empire from one end to the other. In comparison with the 
number of Christians, the influence of Christianity is evident 
and surprising. But after all, compared with the nation, 
Christians are still only a little flock. I venture to say that 
the same remarks would apply to the Christians in China and 
India. They are in need of encouragement from their elder 
brothers in the West. What they need for their encourage- 
ment is an abiding consciousness that they are not alone in the 
world; that among the nations of the world there are multi- 
tudes of Christians, strong in faith, zealous in good works, 
world-wide in their sympathies, with hearts ever mindful of 
their brethren in lands where the teachings of Christ are not 
generally known and accepted. The holding of the next con- 
vention in Tokyo will do far more than you can imagine to 
give them that assurance. 

"3. The last but not the least reason, the holding of your 
next convention in the Orient will be a powerful factor for 
the peace and harmony of the world. 

"Within the last twenty-five years, owing to the marvelous 
scientific achievements of the West, we have seen a great 
shrinking of the world. East and West are coming face to 
face as never before. Great questions of social order and 
different races and nationalities are taxing to the utmost the 
brains of our best diplomats and statesmen. But who can 
doubt that the only satisfactory solution will be the applica- 
tion to these problems of the teaching and spirit of Christ? 
And there is no more potent agency foi the bringing about of 
that application than the coming together of Christians of 
every land in common Christian work. Therefore I say the 
holding of your next convention in the Orient will be a very 
powerful factor for the peace of the world; and that seems to 
me a very weighty reason, indeed, when there is so much un- 
rest and turmoil in the whole world. 

"Mr. President, in view of these reasons I beg leave to read 
to you the official invitation from the National Sunday School 
Association of Japan : 



350 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

Tokyo, May 3, 1913. 
To the World's Sunday School Convention of 19 13, Zurich, Switzerland: 

The National Sunday School Association of Japan sends its most 
hearty greetings to the World's Sunday School Convention of 1913 
through its regularly appointed delegates, Rev. H. Kozaki, president of 
the National Sunday School Association of Japan, and Dr. Kajinosuke 
Ibuka, president of the Federation of Japanese Churches. 

The National Sunday School Association of Japan desires to extend 
a most cordial and hearty invitation to the World's Sunday School As- 
sociation to hold the next triennial World's Convention of 1916 in the 
city of Tokyo. 

We are authorized to say that this invitation is endorsed by Count 
Shigenobu Okuma, Baron Eiichi Shibusawa, Baron Yoshiro Sakatani, 
Mayor of Tokyo, and Mr. Buei Nakano, president of the Tokyo Chamber 
of Commerce, and other leading business men and prominent Japanese cit- 
izens. It is also heartily concurred in by the Executive of the Federa- 
tion of Japanese Churches and the Executive of the Conference of Fed- 
erated Missions. 

Yours for the Kingdom of God in the world, 

T. Ukai, Chairman of Board of Directors. 
Y. KuMANO, Member of Board of Directors. 

"This is the official invitation from the National Sunday- 
School Association of Japan. But you will notice that the 
invitation is endorsed by Count Okuma, one of our foremost 
statesmen; Baron Shibusawa, the most influential business 
man in Japan; Baron Sakatani, Mayor of the city of Tokyo, 
and Mr. Nakano, the president of the Tokyo Chamber of 
Commerce. I can also speak from personal knowledge that 
these prominent men in both official and business circles have 
pledged themselves to do their part to make the convention a 
signal success, if you will accept our hearty invitation. 

"My friend, Pastor Kozaki, and I have come all the way 
from Japan to extend to you this invitation. I earnestly 
hope this convention will accept it. We trust in your help 
to hasten the day when the 'Land of the Rising Sun' will be 
the 'Land of the Risen Sun of Righteousness.' 

"In conclusion, I must say that the convention in Tokyo is 
to benefit all the world at large. Japan is the meeting-place 
between Oriental and Occidental civilization. The conven- 
tion in Tokyo may help the mutual understanding of the East 



THE JOURNEY'S CLIMAX 351 

and the West, and thus promote the peaceful settlement of 
all difficult problems of different races and countries. 

"May the convention in Tokyo prove the most potent 
factor in upbuilding the kingdom of God in all the earth." 

A cablegram from Count Okimia (now Premier of Japan) , 
Baron Shibusawa, Baron Sakatani, and Mr. Nakano was 
read, urging acceptance of the invitation. On behalf of the 
British Sunday School representation Sir. Francis Flint Bel- 
sey, since deceased, moved the acceptance of the invitation. 
Mr. Heinz seconded the motion on behalf of America, Mr. 
Kinnear supporting the second. And then, with imanimous 
voice and great enthusiasm, the delegates to the convention 
shouted their approval of the motion. Himdreds raised their 
hands in token of their hope to be at Tokyo, October i8th to 
26th, 1916. 

Dr. Kozaki, for many years president of the National Sun- 
day School Association of Japan, spoke earnestly as to what 
the convention in Tokyo should accomplish, as follows: 

"Mr. Chairman: I thank you that you have given an 
opportimity to speak a few words at this last moment. 

"My Christian friends, in the first place I must thank 
you that you have voted imanimously to hold the next World's 
Sunday School Convention in Tokyo, our capital. The 
World's Convention in our city, I believe, will give not only 
a great impulse to the Sunday School movement in our coim- 
try, but it will prove a great power to awaken religious 
interest among our people at large, and thus give a great im- 
pulse to the advancement of the kingdom of God in our coun- 
try. We have many missionaries who are earnest, self- 
sacrificing, and doing good work among our people. But the 
people think them to be paid agents of some religious body, 
and hence they do not wonder at their work. When laymen, 
Christian men and women in great number, come in the in- 



352 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

terest of religion by sacrificing their own time and money, the 
case is different. Now if you come in large numbers to the 
next World's Convention in our country, I can imagine that it 
will give a great demonstration to our people and a wonderful 
impression to them. And thus I ask that you will come to our 
country in large numbers. 

"About thirty years ago, when the late Mr. Joseph Cook, 
the celebrated Boston Monday Lecturer, came to our coun- 
try, he said in one of his lectures, ' Japan is the helm of Asia.' 
The helm is a small part of the ship, but it can move the 
whole body of the ship. And so, though Japan is a small 
country in Asia, she can move the whole of Asia. This saying 
is never more true than now. The World's Sunday School 
Convention held in Tokyo is not only of benefit to Japan, but 
it will prove a great power in the cause of the Gospel through- 
out the East." 

The final meeting of the party was held, at the instance of 
Mr. Heinz, in the Bauer de Lac Hotel, overlooking the beauti- 
ful Zurich Lake. 

After a social tea and messages from the chairman and 
secretary, Mrs. Hotchkiss, one of the party's rhymsters, gave 
out copies of a new "On to the Orient," which recounted the 
party's experiences around the world. 

There was heartiness in the good-byes. A vote of special 
thanks to Mr. Heinz was moved and unanimously passed for 
the constancy of his interest in the party's welfare, and a prayer 
was offered that God would make the work and fellowship of 
the months past serve in some way to help bring in the king- 
dom of His Son. 

And those who have through this story followed the party 
about the world are invited to meet with the commission 
tour party in its reunion at the Tokyo Convention, October 
iSthto 26th, 1916, in the glory of the chrysanthemum time, 
and the cordial welcome at that time of the people of Japan 



THE JOURNEY'S CLIMAX 353 

can be counted upon to leave with every delegate an inef- 
faceable memory. 

To the tune of "Loyalty to Christ" all readers are invited 
to join in the singing of "On to Tokyo," composed by Miss 
Brown: 

ON TO TOKYO 
Tune — Loyalty to Christ. 

Around the world we hear 

A ringing, rousing cheer, 

To Tokyo, to Tokyo, to Tokyo we go! 

The countries one and all 

Will rally to the call. 

To Tokyo, Tokyo, Tokyo we go! 

Chorus: 

On to Tokyo; on to Tokyo: 
Cries the World's Committee, On! 
We'll move at that command. 
In Tokyo we'U stand. 
The Sunday Schools, the Simday Schools, 
From all the world will come. 

Oh, hear, oh, hear the song 

That bears the word along, 

From Svmday School to Sunday School all the world around. 

The Bible true we teach, 

And all the nations reach 

In Sunday Schools, in Sunday Schools all the world around. 

In Nineteen Sixteen Year, 

When October days are dear. 

To Tokyo, to Tokyo, to Tokyo we go. 

In the World's Convention there 

All Sunday Schools may share. 

To Tokyo, to Tokyo, to Tokyo we go. 



CHAPTER XXXIV 

GENERAL RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS IN THE 
ORIENT 



CHAPTER XXXIV 

GENERAL RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS IN THE ORIENT* 

The commissions appointed undertheauspicesof the World's 
Sunday School Association to report to the Seventh World's 
Sunday School Convention at Zurich were to investigate the 
general religious, missionary, and Simday School conditions 
in all missionary lands. As part of Commission Four to the 
Orient — to Hawaii, Japan, Korea, China, and the Philippines 
— the tour party took special pains to investigate those con- 
ditions in the lands named. Rev. A. M. Williams, who was a 
special commissioner of Commission Four to the Philippines, 
has already reported as to these conditions in those interesting 
islands; it only remains in this chapter to present the same 
for the countries visited directly by the tour party. 

AT HAWAH 

When the islands were taken over by the United States, 
eleven years ago, citizenship went with the flag in part. 
Every child born in the islands, of whatever parentage, be- 
came a United States citizen, and such children, upon reach- 
ing the age of twenty-one, might qualify as voters. This 
fact has had a double effect: it has encouraged the emigration 
to the islands of the more intelligent classes of the Orient 
who hope their children may become citizens, though they 
themselves may be deprived of that privilege, and it has led 

*By Rev. Charles E. Wilbur D.D. 

357 



3S8 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

to strenuous efforts on the part of the territorial government 
and Christian workers to educate these children, many of 
whom are now thirteen years of age, so that they may become 
good citizens. 

When the islands were taken over, there were large numbers 
of Japanese and Chinese there, largely laborers on the sugar 
plantations. At once, our laws restricting Oriental immigra- 
tion were extended to the newly erected territory. Then the 
sugar planters were forced to seek a new source of supply for 
laborers. They brought in Filipinos, Spanish, Portuguese, 
Porto Ricans, Russians, and some other Caucasians. These, 
with the Orientals present — Koreans, Japanese, and Chinese 
— gave the greatest variety of nationalities and races. 

After our visit to Chinatown, San Francisco, we said, 
" Surely this is the gateway to the Orient "; but, after seeing 
Hawaii, we said, "There is no gateway here to obstruct; the 
road to the Orient is wide open." The opportunity for reach- 
ing the people of the East is greater here. First, in San 
Francisco the people are huddled in a " slum " district, while 
here they are scattered over a wide territory. Secondly, a 
larger nimiber of different peoples can be reached with the 
Gospel message. There are nearly twice as many men here 
above the age of twenty-one as women, showing that there 
is a large class that does not intend to remain in the coimtry. 
They stay only for a short time, but long enough to receive 
the truth, and then will carry it with them to their home-land. 
Third, the relative number of workers is greater here com- 
pared to those to be reached. Fourth, the people in Hawaii 
are not so completely segregated — Orientals from Occi- 
dentals. The social conditions that exist here have, to a 
large extent, broken down racial prejudices, and all meet 
more nearly on a scale of social equality. 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 359 

The public school work is admirably done. The popula- 
tion is 191,000, and 30,000 of these are in schools of all kinds, 
making nearly one out of every six of the population. Fully 
realizing that the citizenship of the islands will be decidedly 
changed when these children born since the annexation reach 
the age of twenty-one, the government is making a special 
effort to prepare them for their duties through education. 
In this work it is assisted effectively by individual beneficence 
and denominational activity. 

The social, moral, and religious tone of the islands is very 
high. The missionaries that evangelized the people repre- 
sented the very highest ideal of New England life in their 
day, and they kept that ideal steadily before the people. 
The Pilgrim Fathers no more certainly stamped their im- 
pressions upon the thought and life of New England and the 
United States in general than these noble workers did theirs 
upon Hawaii. 

The work begun and largely consummated by the early 
missionaries of the American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions is now carried on by the Hawaiian Evangel- 
ical Association, a local board that is self-governing. It, how- 
ever, receives an annual appropriation from the American 
Board, and is affihated with the American Missionary As- 
sociation. 

When the provisional government was taken over, and the 
development of the sugar interests necessitated the intro- 
duction of foreign laborers in large numbers, the Hawaiian 
Islands became missionary ground again. It was recognized 
that the Hawaiian Evangelical Association could not be ex- 
pected no meet the demands of the new situation single- 
handed. Other denominations went to their assistance; and 
for physical equipment, mental attainment, and spiritual 



36o A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

power, it would be hard to find the superior of the Hawaiian 
churches and workers. 

The organized work of the Sunday School is done largely in 
connection with the Young People's Society of Christian 
Endeavor. Semi-annual and annual conventions are held 
in which the schools and societies cooperate. These con- 
ventions are held a solid week at a time on account of the 
difficulty of getting together more frequently — distances are 
magnificent in the Hawaiian Islands. 

The territorial Sunday School workers seem to be fully 
aware of the special needs of their peculiar situation. The 
large nimiber of males on the islands has led to special efforts 
to reach the men, and there has always been a large relative 
nimiber of men in the Sunday Schools. The adult organized 
class they find to be in the line of their need, and to this they 
are giving great attention. 

The excess of males has made a demand for teachers, and at 
present a special effort is being made to encourage teacher 
training. For some years teacher training has been conducted 
by the Central Union Church in Honolulu, but feeHng a 
necessity for a larger work of this kind, the Hawaiian Evangel- 
ical Association has appointed Rev. H. P. Judd a superin- 
tendent of teacher training throughout the islands. He will 
hold conventions and institutes, and no doubt will have the 
cooperation of the other denominational agencies, as a de- 
lightful spirit of Christian imity prevails throughout the 
islands. 

EST JAPAN 

Modern Protestant missionary work was begun in Japan in 
1859. The first period was one of patient waiting, then came 
a rush of the people to hear the Gospel. Church membership 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 361 

doubled every three years, and self-support was almost in 
sight, "The evangelization of Japan in a single generation" 
was talked and written. Then came a period of reaction. 
"Japan for the Japanese" was the cry. The rise of Japan 
into a national consciousness was the cause of this reaction. 
From feudal separateness into national unity was a step 
taken in Japan almost in a day. Waves of nationalism and 
then of Chauvinism swept over the land. The tremendous 
industrial, educational, and political progress that Japan has 
made during the last quarter of a century gave rise to, and 
sustained, this spirit. 

Then came two wars, one with the strongest nation of the 
Orient, and the other with one of the strongest nations of the 
Occident. Japan was decisively successful in both, and Japan 
now knows that she is able to hold her own with the great 
nations of the world. These successes intensified the patri- 
otic spirit, and gave rise to a deeper sense of national impor- 
tance. 

The primary results of the above were two: The first was 
that the people became less accessible to the Gospel. They 
rested largely in a sense of sufficiency in this national impor- 
tance. The second result has been felt keenly in the native 
church. This feeling of importance naturally extended itself 
into all the life of the nation. It went into the native church 
and gave rise to a demand for the organization of an independ- 
ent national Christian church. This is, perhaps, the greatest 
problem before the missionaries of the various mission boards 
— how to concede enough to this spirit to retain the sym- 
pathy and cooperation of the native church, and yet to retain 
enough power and influence to secure proper supervision over 
a native church not yet sufficiently strong enough to work by 
itself. The feeling is general among the missionaries that 



362 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

while a proper independence, leading to self-support, should 
be encouraged, the time has not yet come for entire self- 
control or self-support. The Japanese church as a whole 
does not show a sufficiently aggressive spirit to justify turn- 
ing over to it the evangelization of its own people. It has 
not yet received fully the missionary vision of a world-wide 
evangelism "beginning at Jerusalem." The native pastors are 
splendid workers along lines laid out for them, and maintain 
the churches committed to their care; but the opening of new 
work, especially in the more difficult fields, must be by the 
missionaries. Many of these pastors have this world-vision 
and are inspired by it, but they are not supported by a suf- 
ficient niunber of like inspired laymen to be able to finish the 
work of evangelism in Japan by themselves. 

There has been a cry for the reduction of the number of 
missionaries in Japan, or, at least, for not increasing it. This 
cry has grown out of two things: first, the feeling that there is 
a greater need of them in other lands, especially China; sec- 
ondly, the feeling that Japan is practically evangelized. 

What are the facts? Certain encovu-aging things present 
themselves. The latest statistics of Japanese missions show 
720 missionaries, 570 native pastors, 65,000 membership, 
with 120,000 in the Sabbath Schools of Japan proper. But, 
while the Christians are but few in munber, the influence that 
Christianity exerts is out of all proportion to its numerical 
strength. In the successive Diets of the empire the Christians 
have never had less than four times their proportionate num- 
ber. Three per cent, of the officers of the army are Christians 
and a goodly number of naval officers. Christians abound in 
abnormal munbers in the universities and colleges, among 
both students and instructors. Not less than three daily 
papers of Tokyo are largely in Christian hands, and Christians 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 363 

are at the head of the editorial departments of several others, 
so that their editorial pages read very much as English or 
American papers do. The charitable institutions are largely 
under Christian management also. The far-reaching influ- 
ence of Christianity is being largely felt by the other re- 
ligions of Japan. Formerly there were 400,000 heathen 
temples and shrines ; now it is claimed there are but 200,000, 
and that many of these are not well sustained. AU the above 
may be true, and yet it is also true that only the outskirts 
of the Japanese Empire have been touched with the Gk)spel 
message. There are 65,000,000 of people in the whole empire, 
including the territory lately taken over, and very few of 
these ever have heard of Christ, and a still less number hear 
statedly the preaching of the Gospel. 

Christianity is one thing and Christian civilization is 
another. The Japanese have the genius of selection and 
assimilation, and they have taken over the institutions of 
Christianity, in army, navy, education, and in transportation 
systems, without taking Christ. Hence, because of this, the 
coimtry appears to be more touched with Christ than it really 
is. It is probably true that it is more difficult to reach the 
people with the Gospel because they have already taken 
Christian civilization without taking Christ. Hence it ap- 
pears to many that more missionaries are needed, rather than 
less, and the federated missions of Japan are asking for a 
25 per cent, increase. 

The great leaders of thought and action in Japan recognize 
a great need in their coimtry. They see what they think 
may meet this need in America and England, and they want 
it for their own country. They know that if Japan is to be 
a truly great nation, she must have it. They call this recog- 
nized need " spiritual education." They think Christianity 



364 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

may provide this for them, and so are favorably inclined 
toward it. This is shown in a late recognition of Christianity, 
practically putting it on the same basis as the native religions. 
Yet their attitude toward Christianity is a waiting one. They 
fully recognize that Shintoism and Buddhism have failed to 
give that spiritual culture that is necessary to sustain a vigor- 
ous national life. They trusted that education would give 
the nation moral regeneration, and their recognition of its 
failiu"e is just as distinct. They do not wish to commit them- 
selves to Christianity with the possibility of a fourth failure. 
They will wait, test, and see. The Christian world needs to 
be doubly active during this period of waiting, especially as 
missionaries, native pastors, and workers in general believe 
that the Japanese are on the brink of a great break to Chris- 
tianity that will be without parallel in Christian annals when 
it comes. 

In aU their public addresses and private conversations the 
tour party claimed that Christianity, with its Christ and its 
Bible, would give them the *' spiritual education" they seek, 
and they urged the going of the Eighth World's Sunday School 
Convention to Tokyo, feeling that the impulse it would give to 
Christian work in the empire would go far toward helping 
on the break referred to above. 

Shintoism and Buddhism have lost their hold upon new 
Japan, as represented in the colleges and universities. Stu- 
dents are not worshiping at their shrines. Buddhism made a 
strenuous effort to hold them, but in vain; Shintoism did not 
even try. Many who give only a passing attention to the 
students think that they are fast accepting agnostic skepti- 
cism of the scientific type, but those who live with them and 
study them more closely say "no," that " chaos " better 
describes their religious life. At present they do not know 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 365 

what to believe, and so are believing nothing. They are just 
drifting. Of course, this condition cannot long continue. 
They will soon take that which is nearest to them, or what 
seems to them the best. Here is Christianity's great op- 
portunity. 

Among the missionary forces an earnest discussion is going 
on as to the relative importance of school work and the direct 
preaching of the Gospel in the evangelization of the world, and 
of Japan in particular. The advocates of the preaching claim 
that too great a relative attention is being given to education 
in the great city centres, and that, if a proper distribution of 
the forces were made, it would increase the efl5ciency of the 
missionary forces 100 per cent. On the other hand, the 
educators claim that their work is fimdamental, that they 
furnish the Sunday School teachers, and educate the native 
pastors and evangelists, and that, instead of being reduced in 
numbers by being pushed out into the country to preach, 
their numbers should be increased in the school centres. 
Each sees the importance of his work from his own stand- 
point, and is impressed with it. Those who look at the matter 
impartially feel that the educators should sharpen their eyes 
to evangelism in their own immediate vicinity, and that 
evangelists might win more permanently if they would be a 
little more educational in their methods — that they are 
interdependent and rise or fall together. 

In regard to Sunday School conditions in Japan, it is no 
doubt true here, as in the United States, that each school has 
its special needs, growing out of its local conditions, but the 
general needs that affect the mass of the schools in the empire 
are three. 

The grading of the scholars and of the lesson helps is very 
imperfectly done. Of course, in the larger port towns, where 



366 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

there are a large number of English-speaking people, and 
where the teaching is done in EngHsh, this is not true, and 
even in some churches in the interior this is not true; but in 
the main it is true. Even in the Province of Sendai, where 
Christian influences have most deeply touched the people, 
the Sunday School workers admit that there is chaos in re- 
gard to the grading of the schools and the lesson helps used. 
This is largely caused by the failure to properly use the graded 
Sunday School Kteratiu"e m the Japanese language, which is 
now prepared for eleven years of Sunday School life. The 
beginner's lessons, based on the beginner's courses in use in 
America, are illustrated with cards and lesson rolls, the 
pictures having a Japanese setting. 

The second, much to be deplored, is that the Japanese as a 
whole seem to regard the Simday School as an institution 
for the young only. In many large cities great audiences of 
children can be collected. Just a short time ago ten thousand 
gathered in the great Wrestlers' Hall in Tokyo, completely 
filling that great building, and large audiences of children were 
asembled to meet the tour party in Yokohama, Sendai, 
Osaka, Kobe, and Tokyo, notably in the latter city, when, on 
a stormy day, hundreds were turned away from the great hall 
of the Methodist Episcopal Mission because there was no 
room to hold them. But in the average school, outside the 
distinctively educational centres, there are very few above the 
age of sixteen. 

In view of the above facts and also because the young men 
of Japan — the educated young men — are drifting, a great 
adult movement into the Sunday Schools is greatly needed. 

The third condition is the lack of trained teachers. Of 
course, Japan has many of these, but they are mostly mis- 
sionaries, missionaries' wives and children, and some Japanese 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 367 

that have been taught in Christian schools, with a small sprink- 
ling of those that have been instructed in the government 
schools. There are not enough missionaries to conduct the 
work properly, and to extend it into new fields. There cannot 
be enough of the above secured to reach the 65,000,000 of the 
Japanese Empire. Japan must, in the end, be Christianized 
by Japanese. Consequently teachers must be secured from 
the mass of the native Christians. They already have 
trained minds — Japan puts 98 per cent, of its children 
into its primary schools — it is only necessary that they 
shall be turned toward the Simday School. 

IN KOREA 

Christianity has had a remarkable growth in Korea. The 
Chinese invasion 11 22 b. c. broke the bonds by which the 
Koreans were bound to their own religious institutions, but 
there was not missionary power enough in the Chinese religion 
to force itself upon them. Later Buddhism came and power- 
fully influenced the people, lifting them up to a high standard 
of civilization. But the Buddhists made the common mis- 
take of interfering in poHtics, and were suppressed by the 
ruling powers. Cut loose from ideas of God, Korea degener- 
ated in civilization and religion, and went back to its old 
forms of spiritism — the fear of demons. Hence, when the 
Christian missionaries entered the country they found a 
people without any strong religious attachments. Christian- 
ity, coming with force and cogency, readily found access to the 
hearts of the people and has made a wonderful advance, so 
much so that for the year igio-ii the missionaries and native 
Christians took up the cry, "A million converts this year." 
This end sought was not reached, largely because of the taking 
over of the country politically by Japan, and by an imhappy 



368 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

concourse of events that cannot be discussed here. Never- 
theless great results were attained during that year. It is 
now estimated that there are 125,000 baptized members, and 
as many more probationers and adherents. The excitement 
of the great revival has died away, the chaff has been blown 
from the wheat, and the work is now on a soHd basis. 

A second cause of the rapid growth of Christianity in Korea 
is the splendid equipment in men and means with which the 
Korean missions have been furnished. The auspicious open- 
ing of the work called the attention of the Christian world to 
that hermit country. The missionary forces were asked what 
they needed for the successful prosecution of their purposes, 
and the great boards immediately furnished what was 
asked for up to the last man and dollar — something that 
cannot be said of any other field. 

Notwithstanding the check mentioned, the Koreans are 
still reaching out their hands and opening their hearts for the 
Gospel. There are more open fields than the present mis- 
sionary force, large as it is relatively, can enter. The Koreans 
are naturally spiritually minded. They readily take up the 
work of the teacher and the evangelist. As soon as they learn 
a portion of the word of God, they proceed to teach it to their 
non-Christian neighbors, and this they do of their own accord, 
often visiting the villages at some distance from their own 
homes. It has been suggested that, in the providence of 
God, they are to become the evangelists of the Orient. 

The following incident told the writer by the chief actor in 
it will show how readily the Koreans receive the Gospel : This 
missionary and his native helper were belated one night among 
the islands of the east coast, and put ashore for the night. 
They preached to a chance crowd that gathered to them at 
the landing, evening and morning, left tracts and a manual 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 369 

showing how to conduct services in the hands of the head 
man of the village, himself not a Christian. In a year the 
missionary returned and found a congregation of 150 gathered. 
There was then at that place, three years after the first visit, 
a church of 125 members, and a congregation of 300. Forty- 
eight were baptized at one time. This is not an unusual 
incident. 

The work of opening and sustaining preaching places has 
largely been done by the missionaries; and so many are they 
that in many places they can visit the people but twice a 
year. The conviction is growing that the missionaries 
should give their time more largely to the training of the 
native teachers and pastors to go out among their own people 
and enter the many open doors. The plan of those most active 
in this method of work is to teach a class of twenty for a 
month and send them out; while they are out another similar 
class is taught and made ready to go out on their return. 
This process is to continue as long as necessary or possible. 

But the very latest phase of work is with the heathen chil- 
dren. ' This began in the south, and is rapidly extending over 
the whole country, proniising very much. Heretofore the 
missionaries have given their attention almost exclusively 
to the bringing in of the adults, and the Sabbath Schools 
have consisted almost exclusively of the children of the native 
Christians, The new movement collects the children of 
heathen parents, under the general supervision of the mission- 
aries, but under the immediate care of the native church. The 
chmrch sends its own members among the heathen of its own 
city, and into the surrounding villages, and opens a school. 
The members actually go into the heathen homes and lead 
the children to the school, remaining at the service to assist 
and support the teachers. Some churches are conducting 



370 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

from six to eight of these schools on the Sabbath, of from sixty 
to two hundred scholars. One group of missions added 2,500 
scholars to its rolls in this manner in a year. The children 
are won first and then the parents. 

The Sunday School work in Korea is unique in the fact 
that the whole church is in the Sunday School. Hence the 
primary need of the Simday School is not an adult movement, 
as in Japan, but for a large number of trained teachers to 
take charge of the multitudes of children that can easily be 
gathered under Christian influence from among the non- 
Christians. 

Since Korea became a part of Japan the Japanese are 
flocking thither in great numbers. It is estimated that there 
are now 250,000 in the coimtry. It is generally agreed there 
that the material results of Japanese dominion, and even the 
distinctively educational, will be good, but that the spiritual 
results will be bad. Of course. Christian workers can do 
nothing in regard to the political supremacy of Japan, but 
they are doing what they can to bring the Japanese in Korea 
to Christ. Several churches have been organized among 
them in the larger cities, and they seem to be more readily 
reached than their brethren at home, being separated from 
their friends and relatives. The great importance of this 
work in Korea will be recognized when it is pointed out that 
these Japanese are the most important personages in the 
cities in which they are located, being political, financial, and 
industrial leaders. This work should have the encouragement 
of religious leaders. 

IN CHINA 

The revolution in China that overthrew the Manchus and 
established a republic was as much a religious revolution as a 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 37 r 

political. The same impulse that moved New China to turn 
from the ruling dynasty in government moved it away from 
the established forms in religion in many places. Taoism had 
long before lost its vitality and degenerated into a form of 
magic, Confucianism was still a vital force, but it maintained 
itself largely because a knowledge of the Confucian classics 
was the door of entrance into official life in China. But New 
China had its education and intellectual development in 
western learning. New China was educated largely in Ameri- 
can universities, and in the splendid Christian colleges of 
China. Hence the republic transferred its doors of entrance 
to official Hfe from the Confucian classics to the western learn- 
ing. Such a blow inflicted upon a religious hierarchy is un- 
paralleled in human history, unless it may be that struck by 
Peter at the Jewish Church on the Day of Pentecost, or by 
Paul at heathenism on Mars HiU. Confucianism will long 
continue to be a great force in Chinese life, no doubt, but it 
remains to be seen whether this blow may not have inflicted 
a mortal woimd. The outward signs of its death are seen in 
the decay of the great examination halls in all the great cities 
where students gathered to be tested in their knowledge of 
Confucius. They are now deserted and are falling down. 

In many localities New China has turned away from its 
senseless idols. The temples of the old religion are being used 
for public pvu^oses — schools for the chfldren or barracks for 
the soldiers. Priests and soldiers alike light their cigarettes 
at the burning joss-sticks on the altars. The forms of the 
"five hundred idols," so commonly seen in Chinese Buddhist 
temples, make convenient hooks upon which to hang the 
superfluous garments of the soldiers as the heat of the day 
comes on. The ringing call of the bugler awakes the soldiers 
in the early dawn to change the watch of the night for that of 



372 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

the day, but it does not awaken the sleeping Buddha to smite 
the desecrators of his temple. 

Never, in modern times, was such an opportunity presented 
to the Christian world to obey the Lord's last command, and 
hence to realize the joy of his promise, "Lo, I am with you 
alway"; never was such a responsibility laid upon a people 
as the one put upon the Christian church of America by the 
present attitude of China. All barriers are down, and all 
gates are open. Read again that remarkable call to the 
Christians of China for prayer. It was not the expression of 
a temporary impulse, but the great outcry of a conscious need, 
fully known and deeply felt. It marks the turn of the people 
from the idols to the true God, voiced through the highest 
official channels: "Prayer is requested for the National 
Assembly now in session, for the new government to be estab- 
lished, for the president who is to be elected, for the consti- 
tution of the republic, that the government may be recog- 
nized by the powers, that peace may reign within our country, 
that strong and virtuous men may be elected to office, that the 
government may be established upon a strong foundation." 
The following directions were given to the governors of the 
provinces through whom the call was made to the churches: 
"Upon receipt of this telegram, you are requested to notify 
all the churches in your province that April 27, 1913, has been 
set aside as a day of prayer for the nation. Let all take part." 

The services held in the Christian churches in response to 
this call were largely attended by the governors and officials 
in general, and, in many cases, the audiences were addressed 
by them. They expressed the consciousness of China for 
divine guidance in these times of great stress. This conscious- 
ness has extended itself even to the representatives of other 
sects and cults in China. A Confucian scholar felt it so 



RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 373 

deeply that he said, "Why may we not all join in prayer to 
God for His guidance in this hour of our need? " There was a 
ready response to his request, and May 30, 1913, was ap- 
pointed as a time when all pious hearts were asked to pray in 
the spirit of the first call to Christians. 

It is positively oppressive for an American to go through 
China to-day and see the attitude of the people toward the 
United States — to see what China is asking of us. The 
political treatment that China has received from our coun- 
try has inclined her to receive Christianity from our mission- 
aries. When the nations were talking of dividing China into 
"spheres of influence," and later when it was actually proposed 
to divide her territory among the western nations, and so wipe 
out a sovereignty, the United States stood out against the 
proposals and defeated them. When the Boxer indemnity 
was used to repair the damages done by the Boxers, the 
$11,000,000 surplus was returned. When contributions to 
the extent of $375,000 were made to the famine sufferers, we 
contributed $335,000 of that amoimt. When recognition of 
the Chinese republic was asked by the new government, the 
United States first responded, thus giving it a formal stand- 
ing of equality among the nations. All this, and much more 
has opened the heart of China to America as it has never been 
open before. The Chinese are asking the Gospel from a 
nation that has treated them in this manner, and they are 
correspondingly unwilling to receive it from the nations that 
have not thus generously treated them. We must feel re- 
sponsibility for this opportunity. 

The Sunday Schools of China present some peculiar features: 
the membership is largely made up of adults. Eighty per 
cent, of the membership of the churches are over twenty years 
of age, and the great bulk of the remainder are from the mis- 



374 A TOUR OF THE ORIENT 

sion boarding schools; many are unable to read intelligently; 
one third of the membership cannot read at all, another third 
can read but poorly; only a very small part of the adult 
membership is in the Sunday School; most of the teachers in 
the schools are those who give their whole time to Christian 
work, such as missionaries, their wives and children, and native 
paid workers of the mission. 

Hence it appears that there are two great primary needs 
in the Christian churches of China: First, more primary and 
general education, that the masses may be reached, and 
secondly, more of the adult membership prepared for teaching 
by means of teacher training courses. The native church in 
China is furnishing very few Christian workers, except through 
the mission schools. There should be a radical change here, 
as the great masses of the people cannot be reached by the 
mission forces alone. China must be evangelized by Chinese 
at last, missionaries leading the way and directing imtil the 
native church is fully estabUshed. The Chinese Government 
is extending primary education to the people as rapidly as it 
can, but it is a herculean task to thus reach 450,000,000. 
Many native churches fully recognize this need of primary 
education, and are conducting primary day schools in addition 
to their Sunday Schools. Only by the imiversal extension of 
education can the Bible be brought to the masses of the people. 
When primary education becomes imiversal, as in Japan, a 
time for which China looks anxiously, this will be no more 
necessary there than in Japan. But the youth of China 
ought not to be asked to wait, and China ought not to be 
asked to wait for educated youth. She needs them now. 




THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS 
GARDEN CITY, N.Y. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



028 320 946 5 



